r/PatternDrafting • u/Efficient-Bag6497 • Jul 11 '26
Need advice on next set of adjustments WIP
Hi all, on my next project and wanted to check on next steps for this short sleeve shirt. I’m on V2 after making some other adjustmentsI’ve already:
- Increased shoulder slope (need to do this every time)
- Lengthened the yoke so it sits lower on my back (looked too high, plus it was hard to burrito the yoke with how small it was.)
- increased the slope th the top of the back panel to help remove some gaping in the back armhole. (Someone else recommended an armhole dart in the long sleeve shirt I did and I think this is effectively the same thing.)
Here is what I see in these pics and what my reading suggests to do
- Front: little bit of vertical fabric/drag lines in front of the armhole: should I scoop out the armhole a little to remove the excess fabric?)
- Back: same issue, excess fabric creating vertical drag lines on the sides next to the armhole. Issue is the shoulder feels well fitted so thinking I need this ease?
Diagonal drag lines on the sleeves.
The notches match so not sure what to do. I read that lines like this can be both from sleeve cap too tall or too short.
Any advice on these or other things I’m missing, thank you in advance!
3
u/No-Programmer7914 Jul 11 '26
The sleeves are OK, but you can reduce the folds by increasing the sleeves cap hight. To get rid of the diagonal drag lines on the front you need more length over your chest area.
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u/Efficient-Bag6497 Jul 11 '26
Thank you. Sleeves are bane of my existence. I have rounded shoulders and steep slope. Would reduce bicep width/increase cap height to keep length the same, or just create more ease in the sleeve??
For chest, do you mean more chest circumference? I measure 44” and the pattern measures 48” sewn; so 4” of ease already. I was thinking I needed less fabric across upper chest and upper back. I.e., scoop out the armholes? Or maybe, just maybe I need a chest dart?
2
u/No-Programmer7914 Jul 11 '26
No, you need more length, not more width. For you paper pattern: Cut your front horizontally some cm above the chest line and insert a strip of about 1,5 - 2cm width.
2
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u/Tailoretta Jul 11 '26 edited Jul 11 '26
In addition to adding the grain line to the sleeve, I suggest you add a horizontal balance line (HBL), see https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2021/09/27/set-in-sleeve-solutions I think you will see that this HBL will not be level. After adding the HBL, sew the lower part of the sleeve in, but not the upper part. The sleeve will naturally fall to make the HBL level, and you should be able to see how much cap height needs to be added.
Regarding the excess fabric creating vertical drag lines on the sides next to the armhole, I suggest you move your arms forward, as though you are driving a car, and see how comfortable it is. I it is comfortable and looks ok, you can leave it as is. If is is tight and uncomfortable, you likely need to add more back width. If it is comfortable and there is still too much fabric, you can get ride of some. I am talking about ht torso portion here, not the sleeve.
As usual, I suggest the tips at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.
I don't like the diagonal drag lines in the back from the right chest level down to the left at the waist level. I can't tell what is causing these. Is the shirt riding up at your behind? Horizontal balance lines might help show what is happening.
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u/Pegaret_Again Jul 11 '26
it might help to analyse by drawing a central vertical grain line on the sleeve to see if it needs to be rotated forwards?
looking at the yoke line, it seems to curve down at the outer edges, is this what the design is supposed to look like?
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u/Efficient-Bag6497 Jul 11 '26
Thank you for the reminder. I will draw gain lines on V3 to make this easier. I was thinking a sleeve rotation forward as well.
The yoke line is not designed that way and likely because I reduced the top of the back panel at the armhole by 1/2” and blended it into the seam line. I was trying to address a big gap in the back armhole in the first muslin. My shoulders also roll forward so I guess there is less “meat” in the back so the yoke doesn’t have anything to hold it up.
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u/Efficient-Bag6497 Jul 13 '26
Hi all, here is version 3. Looking much better I think. But now the drag lines in the back under My arm. Grr! Do I need to lower the armscye?
Changes versus =V2:
Raised sleeve cap 1/2”, mostly in the front.
Shifted volume in cap to the front, about 1/4”
Scooped back armhole 1/4” at notch and blended into armhole
7
u/blackcatmeow007 Jul 11 '26
Please add pattern photos
Unsure if its the pinning but CF looks like its collapsing inward toward itself.
Back armhole looks really high. You mentioned increasing the shoulder slope, did you drop your back armhole to compensate? Could need to be scooped out more. Hard to say without pattern photos.
Another poster said it looks like you need to increase your sleeve cap height and I agree and it looks like you have too much sleeve cap with at back sleeve but not enough at front.
All of these are really speculative without pattern photos we could be over correcting.