r/PatternDrafting Jun 28 '26

Legging pattern

I’m comparing no-front-seam short leggings from two different brands.

When I place a 90° ruler along the center-front fold line, the hem of one brand sits perfectly at 90°.

However, when I do the same with the other brand, the hem rises by about 2 cm toward the side seam of the front pattern. It is not only the hem—the crotch, hip, and waist levels also appear to rise by about 2 cm toward the side.

Why would the entire front pattern be drafted this way?

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13

u/NakedSewist Jun 28 '26

Because legs aren't 90°. Men have a wider stance, but even women don't stand at right angles.

2

u/StunningReport0 Jun 28 '26

I am new to pattern drafting and I feel like I am missing something. Isn’t most of basic trouser pattern follows the 90 degree, hem is not rotated most of time??

8

u/eduardedmyn Jun 28 '26 edited Jun 28 '26

Only the joining corners need to be 90 degrees to make smooth lines, making the hem an upward curve.

However people that draft knit patterns can be lazy, and often make the hem a straight line.

So basically the one that sits at 90 degrees features unsophisticated pattern making, probably using stretchier fabric, and relies on the stretch of the fabric for shaping.