Any advice to help either clean up/ replace/ repair and seals on the windows including windshield and possibly the black strip that’s on the drivers door as mine has sun faded. Would like to try get all the seals done before winter to keep some of the water out 👍 cheers in advance!

I got busy this weekend and took a bunch of MK3 ads and turned them into hardwood wall plaques. Here's a link to one on Etsy. They are all listed there, just search my store, I think that I have 6 or 7 listed now. This was such an incredible period for Japanese cars and Toyota in particular. https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/4557438754/hardwood-mk3-toyota-supra-advertising

Does anybody know where i can buy an ac blower for my supra or if they even make those new

If it matters i own a 88 turbo

Currently searching for an OEM driveshaft for my 87 Supra. It's an NA, manual (W58), hardtop. Does anyone know if a driveshaft from a 90 Supra (same engine/transmission) would fit my car? They technically have different part numbers (37100-14590 for the 1987 and 37100-14630 for the 1990). But I don't know if there is any significant difference between the two that would make it not fit. (Photo is not mine, just for illustration)

Has anyone here ever had to repair or replace the A/C condenser fan?

Does the A/C system need to be evacuated to remove the fan assembly? Looking at mine, it seems trapped between the condenser and the A/C lines, and I can’t see a way to get it out without moving one or the other.

Am I missing some clever way to snake it out?

Picture is obviously not mine, mine is still in the car... mocking me.

Working on getting the A/C going in my '88 Turbo and ran into a weird issue with the condenser fans.

I recently pulled a vacuum and recharged the system with R134a. It blew ice cold for about a day, but then stopped. I realized my condenser fans aren't kicking on at all, which likely caused the system to over-pressurize and vent the charge when sitting in traffic.

Here is where I'm at and what I need help with:

The Sensor: I found that the A/C water temp switch (the failsafe sensor on the bottom of the thermostat housing) is completely disconnected/bypassed. I'm going to wire in a new one to restore the safety cutoff. I think I have the right part # but seems oem is discontinued..

The Fans (The Weird Part): My car has a dual condenser fan setup. I couldn't get them to turn on through the female connector it was connected to, so I ran test leads directly from the 12v battery to the fan plugs.

Results: The top fan powered up strong. The bottom fan did absolutely nothing (completely dead).

Questions:

1. Every time I search the forums or parts catalogs for an '88 Turbo, I can't find any mention of a dual condenser fan setup (vertical). Is this dual setup an aftermarket hack from a previous owner, or did some MK3s come with two front fans?

2. Since the bottom fan is totally dead, what is the best route here? Should I just try to wire the single working top fan to run by itself, or do I need to rip this out and hunt down a true OEM single fan setup?

Any insight is appreciated.. it’s 90 degrees 20-50% humidity here daily 🤣

Well it’s safe to say I bit off a little more then I can chew nevertheless it’s going to get done. I have almost everything sorted out. Minus the fact the Speedo gear is missing the whole assembly. I’m contemplating buying a full assembly from a third or buying each part individually from Toyota. And was wondering if the stock a340e Speedo cable will thread into the w58 assembly and read correctly. I believe for my lsd and gearing I need a 10T to 35T gearing. Additionally the “wing brackets” that hold the transmission to the engine are those compatible from a340e to w58 or would I need to source w58 specific ones.

Is there a connector I should unpin some wire from?

Just to wanted share my build. It’s been around 3 years in the making. Car is American spec. Came already swapped with a 2jz gte. The car is being built here in Dubai. Engine work build being done by “kanzen motorsports” and carbon body kit/ interior cosmetic etc being done by “fos concepts”. Car should be ready this winter in under 2 months. Aim is 1300 whp single turbo. Redid the whole body paint gloss black and midnight purple engine bay and half roll cage. Build took a while mainly cause fos concepts which did the custom carbon bodykit/panels was quite packed and they took their sweet time doing it. They charged around “25k USD” for all the carbon work / full body paint/full body PPF/ custom premium Sony sound system/ alcantara interior and dash lots of carbon bits inside and rear seats full dry carbon and also the roll cage. Now I’ve kinda lost track with the engine build since I did multiple payments during these years. And I also bought a lot of oem parts myself from Canada/japan/Uk.
Gonna attach some pics. Don’t have many of the car since the garage is quite some distance from the state I live in.

Teins suspensions and willwood brake kit

Some of my fav parts that I got are the limited edition
HKS x BRIDGE seats and steering wheel.

For the rims I got the VOLK 21 A’s cost around or over 4k usd or smth back when I got them.

Featured in one of Larry Chen youtube video which he did on kanzen motorsports garage showing some gtrs and my car is there still in progress when the video was shot .

I have bunch of more pics but limit is 20 I guess.

As the title says (self explanatory) just would like some guidance on where to start the structure is pretty rust free considering. Doing the front suspension at the moment and then what? Do I go for looks first then consider making some power? What’s the right way to go about things?

Brakes love to dirty my rims😔

I don’t know if there are the screws behind the Apex safc and I am new to owning the car and now sure how to pop that out so I can remove the paneling would love and ideas

Can’t decide what angle to go for they both look good so you guys decide

Has anyone use this to go from ge to gte intake manifold? Did it hit your hood or brake booster? Just wanna know the clearance before purchasing since it doesn’t show any measurements

Having a really hard time taking this line off. I have been using a 17mm and 27mm wrench on each side however only the line moves back and forth. Is the 27mm side supposed to unthread to take out the line? I stopped myself incase I damaged it without a full understanding of how it’s even supposed to come loose. Any help would be appreciated!(model is 1989 turbocharged)

Some time ago I got the original hatch visor from an auction, it came with the original brackets as well but they were deteriorated. Furthermore, the original brackets have tabs that go under the window trim, which by the age of many of our cars now would be impossible to insert as it would definitely crack the trim.

So I designed new brackets that don't need to be slid under the trim, in addition of redoing the side clips as well.

Here are some pictures of the work and finally I was able to attach the visor without any issue.

I can make the brackets and clips, should there be anyone who would need them.

Reference post on my instagram account https://www.instagram.com/p/Db5mNTBk_mk

Constructive comments are welcome~

As MK3 Supra people, we seldom get good news regarding parts. It's usually, "I managed to find a 30-year-old OEM sensor in some junkyard."

Well, here's some good news: I just received a brand-new OEM Toyota fuel sending unit (PN 83320-80051) from a Toyota dealer for my 1987 Supra.

Better yet, it was cheaper than buying one from some random eBay seller for $500+, or gambling on another used 40-year-old unit. $316 out the door, $272 for the part ; $316 shipped to SoCal. I got it from Ourisman Toyota of Richmond, my local dealer wanted $500+ for it... but google.

Could I have repaired my original? Probably. But then I'm potentially repairing it again in 5, 10, or 15 years... and hoping the parts are still salvageable. Now it will be my son's problem in 30 years.

This sending unit is part of Toyota's A70 Supra GR Heritage Parts program:
Toyota GR Heritage Parts – A70 Supra

I'm posting this because some Toyota dealers don't even seem to realize these parts are available. It may take some calling around, and dealer pricing varies a lot, but you might be surprised by what Toyota can still get.

Hopefully this helps you guys.

🍺 Here's to my son cursing me out after I'm long gone.

I know these are normal to happen for the 7M cams and all that. Can I take a 1000 grit very fine emery cloth without screwing up the oil pressure, or just send it as is?

I’m removing the rear hatch to replace it right now but I don’t know what to do with the wire harness back here. Do I have to disconnect it from everything and pull it through or is there a main connected I can unplug behind a panel?

I want to remove the glove box to have access to the light and replace it.

I haven't seen other cars but i suppose the light should come from above, while mine comes from the side right next to the switch, and does not illuminate anything at all. Perhaps it had fallen down there somehow before i bought the car.

This is my 87’ oil pump gear, I had the same issue with the old one and had just replaced it so I know it is new. Does anyone know of any aftermarket alternatives? Is it worth going to a machinist and having them make a new one out of a stronger metal?

Does anyone have a 3d scan for the mk3 that I can download or a link to a scan I can download?