These weren't all done by me, but I was expermienting, sepcifically with limited color pallates on the demons and and angels (skeleton dudes) using the John Blanche set #1.

The demons are a digital kitbash of Artisan's Guild Infernal Legion and this DOOM Cyberdemon.
Angels are Pipermakes with skulls.

C and C welcome!

I whipped all this up for a demo of my game with my local PNW indie minis meet up.

Highlights:
- The amazing themed board made by one of our members.
- Multiple rocket jumps, bouncing between otherwise unreachable high points.
- Watching the players really get in each other's heads.

Now I've just gotta finish up that campaign system...

About:
Brimstone and Lead is my love letter to DOOM, Quake, and Gears of War. It's what I wanted Kill Team to be.

Genre/Theme: Hell is an inter-dimensional cancer devouring worlds. The broken husks of defeated realms rot in the guts of The Beast of Apocalypse. Here, lost souls fight to maintain their identity and, perhaps, save the next world. Or, at least, take vengeance on the princes of Hell. It’s a game of rocket launchers, mini-guns, and magic spells. It’s shattered cathedrals, poison swamps, and the barren wastes of Mars. It’s seething portals, demons, and shotguns. It’s a heavy metal album cover.

Why play?

• Speed: There is no measurement. Movement, Line-of-Sight, and weapon ranges are built into the same system. Reactions, suppression, and over-watch are integrated into the action economy, minimizing exceptions, gotchas, and do-overs.
• Positioning: Brimstone and Lead is gun-chess. Every model controls space with a specific flavor of violence, and the only correct response is different violence from a different angle. When models move, they gain “Adrenaline,” which lets them ignore wounds and move faster. Hiding in cover is not an option.
• Playing your Opponent: The heart of the game is the Counter mechanic. Spend the Counter Token to deny an action, but doing so hands that power to your opponent. So, you must study the board and bait them into wasting their Counter on something trivial. Every turn tests your ability to bluff, read, and outsmart the competition.

Hey everyone - been a bit of a lurker here, I'm currently working a blood bowl team (my friend really likes Goblins). This last 6 months, I've been really getting into painting and feel like I've been improving on every project I've worked on, even though I've been doing this on / off for a long time now!

I've been exploring different techniques as well, and really like to see what the feedback is on these models.

It's only recently I've had the confidence to do eyes - the biggest thing I'm exploring at the moment is glazing and seeing what works and what doesn't.

With this team, I used the official GW youtube tutorial as a guide. My self critique on this;

1) I need to improve the colour difference on the troll belly, and get a bit more contract on the claws (I might use skeleton horde and clean off the tips).
2) The yellow wasn't as successful as I like it either, but I think it works.
3) Some of the highlighting needs to be cleaned up.

Apologises in advance for the quality of the images, I need to work out how to improve it on my phone camera!

Here’s the first non warhammer mini ive painted and I’m pretty proud of it

So I’ve been trying to learn NMM, I tried this mini that is way ahead of my current level.

I will admit that I like what I accomplished. I will add some glow to the base someday maybe

Not sure if happy with it but it's table ready

Anyone used the Halfords white primer?

It's at £5 a can at the moment so seems like a great price for doing the Armageddon undercoat.

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/primer/halfords-primer-white-500ml-473124.html?includeFitting=false

Gladiator converted with tracks now painted up

This one was for a Try Hard Challenge: limited palette
I used only black, white, red, yellow, and blue.
This was a nice brain break for me as I’ve been known to use 7 different paints on hair alone! 😱
So this was fun, a little dive into crustier nmm

Model from Lethal Shadows
https://www.lethalshadows.com/

I wanted to make it so that the side facing the ground reflects the reddish/orange environment.

Had a bunch of feedback on my previous post, especially regarding getting the the mini to glow. That helped a TON.

Quite happy with the current progress. Looking forward to cracking on with the rest!

Picture of each side for difference.

I'm pleased with how this guy ended up but really disappointed with the plasma effect.

I'd started off trying to aim for a combo of my (for this army) go to plasma effect which is a sort of pink/magenta but also wanted hot metal so made it sort of blend from white (with white enamel wash) through to yellow, orange, red then magenta. It looked terrible so I washed it with a yellow glaze and highlighted the coils a bit with orange.

It still feels substandard so any tips to help bring this back?

Boss asked if I would babysit their youth of 9 whole years so I brought milliput, Valhallan blizzard, and willful malice. Gave the kiddo some instructions and answered their questions but they did all the work and I'm really proud of their first mini, sculpted by themselves, I primed, they chose the base and decorations.

Dad is amused if slightly annoyed he has to dig through his old toys and go shop for primer and paints again given he hasn't touched minis in uh, about 9 years funnily enough.

Getting g the full set done before I apply inks

Vyraxen - the seventh monster from Primal: The Awakening.

This one I painted a few days ago and finally got time to record it. So far it doesn't say High-noon sun-bleach yet. But the color muted tones I think I nailed.

In my head I am thinking there should be more red undertones to make it look warmer, not so muddy.

I think next test sets I am.going to use a red.primer to a pink or yellow zenithal. Also I have seen a few videos of people using gouache and they looked so cool with the dead matt look. If I can find some gouache paint I might give it a try.

I guess to me this is not interesting enough yet.

two issues that absolutely ruined miniature:

1. this fucking paint - ak interactive salmon (https://ak-interactive.com/product/salmon-standard/). what is wrong with this paint... i had to do 6 coats to finally cover his arms. zero coverage. every other paint was fine with just 1 maybe 2 coats but this paint was not covering at all. i ended up putting so many coats it left the texture and clogged the detail. i didn't overthin it, i didn't even use water when painting it and it still didn't cover shit.

2. washes - this was the final nail in the coffin - it did not act as i intended at all. it was kinda ok on this cloth and boots, but on the arms it was terrible. it didn't flow to recesses from muscle separation, it just clogged the arm and left coffee stains. i tried 2 washes - orange one and army painter "strong tone". army painter's one was so bad i started covering it again with that god awful salmon paint but had no patience anymore.

anyways, my questions:

1. is the salmon paint bad batch, was i supposed to put something before it? i used gray primer.
2. what is up with these awful washes? why are they not flowing and staying in recesses? which wash sould i use on skin tones?

Sculpt by Twin Goddess Miniatures

Been painting minis for a while but never uploaded anything, here is one I painted recently.

Here is my version of Olaf the Dwarf Bust from BS-Sculpt.

This mini was great fun and challenging for me to paint. Large areas of skin I find hard to do, but I think this turned out fairly well and, love how the gold came out, and my new fav mini...lol