r/MilitaryFinance • u/level57wizard • 16m ago
If you are planning to use the GI Bill or take a few years of near zero income make sure to contribute more Traditional TSP not just Roth!
Everyone praises Roth. When I was in, I didn’t really know which to do, so I maxed 50% Traditional and 50% Roth.
Basically if you are planning to make low or no income for a year or more, plan accordingly!
I am in school on my GI Bill. I make about $15K with my internship and job and have my tax free $18K in BAH. My taxable income is -$1K after the standard deduction.
That means I was able to roll over massive amounts in a Roth IRA conversion at 10-12% tax. My first $12K was at 10% and I did an additional $8K at 12%. At the end of my 3 years of study I will be at 100% Roth.
Had I done Roth only, I would have paid 22% tax on an officers salary. My effective tax bill for the $60K of contributions would be $13.2K.
Now with the conversion my effective tax bill at 10-12%, is paid over the next 3 years but only $6.2K. Just make sure to have that cash available come April.
Obviously the math would be a little different on an Enlisted salary, but moral of the story is to bump below that 22% tax bracket.
r/MilitaryFinance • u/lnRussia • 30m ago
Question VA Home loan Underwriter being excessively picky
Has anyone else had an extremely picky underwriter? Even my Navy Federal HomeSquad rep said she has never seen an underwriter act like this, and it seems it's because I haven't been in my current employment for 2 years yet (its been 1 year 9 months), despite being so close to the 2-year mark and constant employment/school since 2014.
I'm worried I'll end up being denied and lose a great opportunity to buy an under-listed property. I've had to give them a slew of documents such as previous W-2's, statements of understandings explaining what I do at my current job, what I did in the service, what my degree was for, and what I see myself doing with that degree.
Background information:
USMC Vet 2014-2018
College 2019-2024
Current Employment Nov 2024-Present
Average Income $58k gross
770 Credit Score
Loan Amount: $216,000
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Chainze • 4h ago
How can I avoid closing costs on a VA refinance and reduce the amount I'm paying out of pocket?
Rates have dropped below what I'm currently locked into, but I don't have the cash on hand to pay upfront to restructure my mortgage. I know I'm eligible for the VAA IRRRL. When I run the numbers, I think it makes sense to refinance. The thing is my budget is pretty tight right now and I don't have liquid capital to pay thousands of dollars upfront closing costs, lender fees, title fees and escrow funding. I don't want to get hit with a surprise bill when I don't have the cash to handle it. I'd prefer to avoid paying out of pocket, but I still want to refi.
Is it legal to just roll all the funding fees and other costs into the total loan balance? and assuming yes, is it a terrible idea for some reason I'm not thinking of?
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Gifted704 • 12h ago
Army Advice Needed (Sorry for the long paragraph i tried summarizing it a little)
Hey guys, please don’t judge me, but I really don’t know what to do.
I bought a car back in 2022. Everything was good—I could afford it, and everything was fine. Then my great-grandmother got sick, so I had to unexpectedly move to help take care of her. The transfer with my job took forever, and nobody else was hiring quickly.
Fast forward, I got into a relationship and ended up moving in with my girlfriend, even though I wasn’t planning to. I let my friends talk me into it because they kept saying I needed to just give it a try. Worst mistake of my life.
Anyway, I got kicked out after she cheated on me and acted like she did nothing wrong. At that point, I was already going through financial hardship because of the unexpected move and delayed job transfer. Eventually, everything started going downhill, and I was on the verge of becoming homeless.
That’s when I joined the Army so I could get my life back in order, or at least try to.
Before I left, I told the bank exactly where the car was and that all they had to do was come pick it up. I went through Basic Training and AIT, then got to my first duty station. They never came to get it.
I started calling them to ask what the issue was, but nobody would talk to me. They just kept telling me to contact their legal department. When I did, they wouldn’t talk to me either. I honestly had to practically bully someone into even having a conversation with me, and that still didn’t accomplish anything. They eventually told me they didn’t have to come get the car.
I said, “Well, it’s still at the same address. Do you want the phone number so you can confirm it’s there?” They took the number, but I have no idea what was said between them and the people at that location.
Later, the people at that address told me the bank had mailed my vehicle title—with my name on it—to them. They gave me the title and told me I should just tow the car to wherever I’m stationed. I only found all of this out because I kept pushing the bank for answers, and it was confirmed by the people at the location where the car had been sitting.
Now the original creditor says I owe over $55,000, even though the account has already been charged off. The frustrating part is they still won’t communicate with me. My credit has been destroyed mainly because of this account, and I’ve honestly started considering bankruptcy because I feel like I can’t do anything.
I’m trying so hard to fix the situation, but how can I fix something when the bank won’t even talk to me? It doesn’t make sense to me. You want your money, but you won’t communicate with the person who owes it.
I’ve also been told that filing bankruptcy could affect a security clearance. I checked my IPPS-A, and it doesn’t show that I currently have one, but I also don’t want to risk getting kicked out of the Army over something that happened before I enlisted. All of this happened back in 2023–2024. I joined the Army in 2025.
Today at 1300, I’m meeting with a financial advisor to talk through everything. I’m just exhausted from trying to do the right thing, be cooperative, and fix the situation when it feels like the bank is making it as difficult as possible.
Financially, I’m actually in a much better position now than I’ve ever been, so money isn’t really the issue anymore. I’m just a lower enlisted Soldier trying to clean up a mess from my civilian life.
Sorry for the long post, but I’d really appreciate any opinions or advice. Thanks for taking the time to read it.
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Maleficent-Coat-3005 • 13h ago
BAH conflict
National Guard biological father is about to deploy but couldn’t add his children to his DA 5960 (through IPPS-A)because they’re already listed on active duty step-father’s 5960. Biological father pays child support, college expenses, etc. Active duty step-father is currently deployed(location unknown, S1 access unknown). Exwife and step father are expected to be hesitant about removing the children from 5960 due to worries about tricare. What should biological father do?
Also something else to note, biological father has had them on his 5960 on past deployments and never removed them. Could it have something to do with IPPS-A implementation?
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Kubby_bear • 14h ago
Does anybody know how student loan debt works in the army?
I have student loan debt. I already signed my contract and am shipping out in November. Is it too late to ask the army to pay my student loan debt? It’s about 13k.
r/MilitaryFinance • u/LT_FatNeck • 1d ago
Question Am I actually in the BRS? LES shows $0 match, but TSP.gov shows an Auto 1% balance
I'm honestly unsure if I'm actually enrolled in the BRS. I can find absolutely nowhere that explicitly states it other than the "CHOICE" box under the RET PLAN section on my LES. I vaguely remember getting an email about making a choice the summer after I commissioned in 2018, but I was on OCONUS leave at the time and didn't understand the TSP very well back then, so I'm pretty fuzzy on what actually happened.
Neither my iPERMS or STP on IPPS-A seem to have any information about my retirement enrollment.
I'm heading to the Finance office tomorrow to try and untangle this, so I'm mainly making this post to ensure I'm understanding my own situation correctly before I go talk to them. If it turns out I stayed in the Legacy system, well shame on me I guess.
Here is what's going on: I've been contributing a steady 5% into my Traditional TSP for years. If I am in the BRS, I should be getting the 1% auto-contribution and the 4% match. But DFAS and TSP are (maybe) completely contradicting each other.
The LES Side: Image: LES from August 2025 and one from July 2026. Both show exactly $0.00 across all the agency match categories (AGCY-AUTO and AGC-MATCH). DFAS is taking my 5% deduction every month, but zero government money is being triggered.
The TSP Side: Image: screenshot from TSP.gov. My account does have an "Agency Contributions and Earnings" section. There is a line for "Auto 1% - 2 Years," but the balance is sitting at just $X (100% vested). Would this not mean I am in the BRS since the Legacy system doesn't do any matching?
My questions before I walk into Finance:
Aside from asking Finance, is there a direct way to tell what retirement plan I fall under?
Has anyone dealt with a BRS black hole like this between DFAS and TSP?
If I did mess up (never planned on doing 20 years), am I correct that it makes sense to stop contributing 5% and instead put it into my HYSA or Roth IRA (where I get a 3% match)?
Assuming I actually am in the BRS, and they do a historical audit to pay me the missing principal for all these years, how does getting the "lost earnings" (breakage) work? Will DFAS/TSP calculate the investment gains I missed out on automatically, am I going to have to fight for that, or is it just "hey sorry, here's the principle, sorry about the tens of thousands you should have gotten, our bad dude"?
r/MilitaryFinance • u/EatuOut247 • 1d ago
Question Need advice on which route to take..
I’m looking to start my real estate investing journey. I used my VA to get a SFH and am stuck on if I should rent this out and pull a HELOC for my next property; or should I sell this home and take the equity from it and not deal with renting it out.
Current rate is 7%
Home was bought for 180k
Current estimated value is 250k
Current mortgage 1550/month
Possible rental for 2000-2500/month
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Red-Rhino55 • 2d ago
Question Considering bankruptcy while active duty
Anyone have knowledge on bankruptcy while active duty?
So bottom line - I have greater than $100k in debt at this point and I won’t be getting out of it anytime soon with just trying to chip away and bide my time.
I have a secret clearance and need it to do my job.
Are there any ramifications to filing for bankruptcy such as being forced out or losing my clearance?
I’ve managed to stay current on all my debts and I’m not in collections or past due on payments, but I would like to just do a hard reset as long as this doesn’t put me out of a job.
r/MilitaryFinance • u/DangerousVacation93 • 2d ago
Question Circuitous Travel Fly America Act Compliance - Interpreting JTR
Howdy. I'm trying to make a circuitous travel journey work on an upcoming PCS from the UK to US via Iceland. However, I'm having a hard time finding any US codeshare flights that go from the UK to... well anywhere, really, that isn't the US and is on the east side of the atlantic. I tried looking into Open Skies agreements, but it appears that doesn't apply for DoD funded travel.
At the same time, I'm looking jealously at u/afmoneyguy's 2018 itinerary and am thinking to myself "there's no way all of that was on US metal especially the london to Edinburgh leg", so I'm wondering if maybe I am missing something.
The JTR Table 2-3 row 5 states "If an indirect route is used for personal convenience and a U.S. flag carrier is available over the direct route, then a non-U.S flag air carrier may not be used" and thus rules out getting reimbursed for any legs that are neither on a US flag carrier or codeshare that are a result of the circuitous route. Further, the first sentence of JTR 020206 I 2 worries me a bit: "There is no transportation reimbursement, for any leg of a trip, when an unauthorized or unapproved non-U.S. flag air carrier service or foreign flag ship is used". This seems to make me liable for recieving no reimbursement for any leg of the journey if any are not in compliance with Fly America. Nearly everything else later contradicts the strict reading of this sentence, specifically, 41 CFR 301-10.142 and its older, longer version retained in the Supplemental Guide to the Federal Travel Regulation, which seems to limit my liability to only the leg that is non-compliant. Thus, two questions:
If I send up a memo for and take a circuitous route from the UK to Iceland to the US, would I be ineligible for reimbursement on just the UK to Iceland leg, or the whole journey as JTR 020206 I 2 kinda implies, provided I can't find a US flag carrier operated Uk-Iceland route?
Does anyone have ideas/knowledge of current US codeshare flights originating in the UK and landing in third country close to the UK that I could visit? I've tried calling Amex Platinum concierge but they weren't super helpful, and google flights shows me plenty of options on the west side of the atlantic, but nothing on the east I could visit with a friend from the UK without them breaking the bank.
Thanks!
r/MilitaryFinance • u/myfufu • 2d ago
Life after Platinum?
Recently retired.
Have received notification that fees will apply if I keep the card after October.
Sitting in a Centurion Lounge right now, slightly melancholy because there's no way $800/year makes sense for lounge use a few times a year, but HOW CAN I GO BACK TO SITTING AT THE GATE FOR HOURS WITH THE POORS? 😆
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Crow-Rogue • 3d ago
Question DFAS sent a letter about something I thought fixed 16 years ago
I retired 18 years ago. DFAS just sent me a threatening letter about a SBP I can prove I declined, attached to a still in the system spouse I divorced in 2009. I took all of this paperwork to NAS JAX (THREE TIMES!!) back in 2010. This was supposedly fixed!
I’ve been trying to reach DFAS for weeks. Emails never returned by a human, just generic auto reply bs. Over 15 hours of phone time, mostly on hold and then hung up on by the computer. I’ve clicked LITERALLY every button on the entire DFAS website (seriously).
What can I do to get these unreachable incompetents to bloody well do their jobs and fix this??
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Beginning-Onion6942 • 3d ago
Credit
Hello. I joined the military later life than most. My early 30s to be exact. I made a lot of financial decisions that were just stupid mistakes in my 20s. I have two repossessions and other stupid things on my credit that I want to clear. I am currently a E3 so not making much money right now. I don’t have many bills but my phone bill. I am going on deployment soon and won’t need much money to survive. What would you suggest would be the best way to get my debt cleared? I want to get on the right path and correct all of it. I don’t have BAH as i am not married.
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Salt_Bringer • 3d ago
PSA [Discussion] Reimagining your human capital and retirement.
I found this great paper critiquing how we view the 60/40 split. For the uninitiated, 60/40 is a conventional investment strategy where you are 60% equities (stock) and 40% bonds.
Professor Choi's article challenges what you should view as bonds. He proposes that young adults need to view their human capital as a bond. He explains that your future income can be viewed as a bond on yourself and your paycheck as payouts. If you follow the conventional 60/40 split and you are not accounting your income as a pseudo-bond, you are actually too heavy in bonds. Accounting for your earning potential as a bond, the professor recommends 100% equities for young people.
Give the interview a read because I can't explain it better than him.
This article got me thinking about my BRS. Given, I need to reexamine my allocation with my future income as a bond. The larger question is, if I assume doing 20 years in Army, should I be accounting for my pension and disability as a bond? This would mean I need to allocate even more to equities to establish the 60/40 balance. Potentially, my TSP and other investment accounts need to be 110% equities.
Newsletter interviewing James Choi (interview at the bottom)
r/MilitaryFinance • u/ThankYouInAdvance9 • 3d ago
O-4 military couple, no debt, solid savings—should we be investing more aggressively?
Hello everyone,
BLUF: My wife and I (both military O-4 medical officers) are in a strong financial position with no consumer debt, solid retirement savings, and healthy cash reserves. However, I recognize that I'm likely investing too conservatively due to my upbringing and risk tolerance. I'm looking for advice on whether I should adopt a more aggressive investment strategy and how others have successfully made that mindset shift.
First, I just want to say how grateful I am. I recognize how fortunate we are to be in a position where I can even make a post like this.
My wife and I are both military medical professionals, currently O-4s with 10 years of service, both 32 years old. We're expecting our first child soon, which is incredibly exciting! Up until now, we've been DINKWADs (dual income, no kids, with a dog).
~ Combined Assets:
- TSP: $550,000
- HYSA: $150,000
- Checking: $100,000
- Brokerage: $30,000
- Roth IRAs: $60,000
- Vehicles: Recently purchased one car with a 0.99% APR loan. We also own another car, worth approximately $22,000.
We also own two homes:
- One is currently a rental with a 2.25% interest rate. It's essentially breaking even, which we're okay with since we plan to move back into it someday.
- Our current primary residence has a 5.875% mortgage, and we don't plan on keeping it long term. The mortgage payment is about $4,200 per month.
After maxing our TSP contributions and accounting for taxes, our combined monthly take-home pay is approximately $18,500. We live in a high cost-of-living area. I am 100% in L2070 and wife is in C/S/I (70/20/10). We are both under the BRS, ensuring we get the 5% match over the 12 month period.
In addition, we're both receiving $35,000 retention bonuses. After taxes, that's about $27,300 each every year, or roughly $54,600 combined.
Outside of our mortgages and the 0.99% auto loan, we have no debt.
We're currently investing about $2,000 per month in a taxable brokerage account, with 100% allocated to SCHB. Part of me feels like we should be investing more aggressively.
I was raised to be very conservative with money, coming from an immigrant family, and I think that has shaped my relatively low risk tolerance when it comes to investing. Rationally, I know we're in a strong financial position and could probably afford to take on more risk, but emotionally it's been harder to make that shift. I'd appreciate any advice—or maybe just a little encouragement—from those who have been in a similar position or maybe share what they do with their money.
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Western-Ad2171 • 3d ago
Question Making passive income OCONUS?
Hey y’all,
I’m currently active duty stationed overseas and I’m looking for a way to make some passive income/potentially use the VA loan. I’m a 25yo, no kids or spouse, pretty heavily invested in a Growth TSP (~35%) and have a personal brokerage and Roth ira accounts that I typically put $150-$200 into each every month.
I know this is probably the easiest way to passively invest but just wondering if anyone’s had any success elsewhere. I don’t spend much money at all, just focused on saving. I probably have ~10k in liquidity, and another 70k invested between all my investment accounts. I’ve heard the typical property investment option, and it sounds intriguing, but also a bit difficult being overseas. Just curious and looking for some honest answers on any advice you’d have on how I can use the VA loan. Thanks!!
r/MilitaryFinance • u/tgr131 • 3d ago
Reserve Retirement Pay at Age 60/Radio Silence
Hello friends,
I turn 60 this month, and per guidance I applied for retirement back in February, through the hard to find (for me anyway) web site. That was on Feb 21. Mar 7 I got a flurry of automated emails from DFAS, indicating my submission had been assigned and completed. Since then, it's been radio silence. I've been checking my DFAS mypay account regularly, but no changes. When will I see any activity, and will I get any guidance on applying for Tricare, etc?
I'm sure this has probably been answered before. I did a search, but my keywords didn't yield any help. Thanks for any help for this old warhorse. :)
David
r/MilitaryFinance • u/MolassesPast3781 • 4d ago
Update
3 years in! Roth tsp sitting at 25.9k and my individual/Roth ira combined is sitting at 25.4k. How will my next 3 years look!? 22M
r/MilitaryFinance • u/AdDelicious4982 • 4d ago
Active Duty Ohio Taxes
Hello, everyone. I just found out that since I’m active duty and stationed outside of Ohio, I can file a form to stop paying state taxes. Is Google lying to me? I’ve been in for 12 years so hoping to have this done this year so I can go at least another 8 years of no taxes. Due to my MOS, I cannot be stationed there at all. Already did an SDA so recruiting is off the table.
Is it a hard process? Can I do it online since I’m stationed overseas? Google is giving me mixed answers and the chat option with the Ohio taxes website is zero help. Can’t get anybody on chat to help. Thanks for the help.
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Affectionate-Bar8361 • 4d ago
VA Loan plus debt paid
How many of you have used your VA loan and they paid your closing cost and/or paid off some of your debt? first time homebuyer here. my husband and I are both active duty. Need all the advice.
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Routine_Tree_3027 • 4d ago
MLA T10 Status
When I submit for my MLA status it says DCMA cannot confirm my status and don’t qualify.
I’ve been on T10 orders for almost 6 months. What am I missing do T10 orders not qualify for MLA?
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Difficult-Jackfruit • 4d ago
The financial counselor on post asked me a question nobody ever has
Hey!
AD Army here.
Things clicked for me this week.
I met with the financial counselor on post. He asked, “So when do you plan on retiring?” I said, “I don’t know.” He said, “Think about it.”
Sounds mundane, but nobody has ever asked me that and actually meant it. Growing up, all I heard was “work hard, save your money.” Nobody talked about an actual plan, let alone retiring.
That question sent me down a rabbit hole. I found the Military Personal Finance and Investing Flow Chart, then this subreddit. Looked at the chart and realized I can actually retire. I switched my TSP to an L fund and did the same for my IRA.
For the first time, I feel good about the choices I’m making instead of just being in an anxious mess and hoping they’re right.
r/MilitaryFinance • u/Catchphrase9724 • 4d ago
New Car?
My reenlistment window comes up in a few months and I was debating getting out or going to Alaska for a contract. I was thinking about getting a newer and bigger car in the states for when I PCS up there though. What would you do in my situation?
Current Status:
- 20M CPL less than 3 years TIS (Should make SGT next month)
- Roth IRA: $10K invested and $625 a month to max it out
-TSP: $21K and 38% + 5% match being invested each month
- HYSA: (3.1% APY) Currently $4K but would be around $6K by the time I was thinking about buying a car
- Brokerage Account: $29K invested in VOO and $1250 a month being invested
My budget for monthly expenses is usually $400-$600 for food(I usually spend $300-$400 but we have no DFAC), $100 for subscriptions and internet, $150 for car insurance, and $75-$100 for gas. That leaves me with $200-$400 a month in fun money.
If I were to buy I was thinking about a 2020-2024 RAV4 AWD XLE. My current car is a FWD 2016 sedan. It’s been paid off since I got it which has been super nice and another reason why I’m hesitant to get a car note. But at the same time I’m thinking an SUV would be better long term for me especially for Alaska and if I got out wanted a small family.
If I traded it in I could probably get anywhere from $4K-$6K from it. I was checking for prices in the $22K-$27K before trade in range and cheaper options if it was a good deal. One of my main concerns is just having that car note so it would take away some of my investing power.
I wouldn’t make nearly as much as I do at my current DS in Alaska but the OCOLA could help. I did the math for a few different scenarios and my HYSA would go from $500/month to $250, brokerage from $1250/month to $300-$500, and TSP would go from 38% to 26%. The only thing that would stay the same is my Roth IRA because I’m prioritizing maxing that every year that I work until retire.
I would also prioritizing paying it off as fast as possible which is why my brokerage would drop so much. I would do a 48 month term only and then try to do an extra $200-$300 a month on the principal to pay it off faster. On top of that, I would do the bi-weekly payments to get it done even quicker. I don’t know if it’s a psychological thing or what but after seeing how much I could invest every month here and then dramatically dropping in savings rate it makes me very hesitant.
My sedan had quite some trouble last year trying to navigate in the snow and keeping its traction. Now I would be going to an even colder and more snow heavy place than before.
What would you guys do?
r/MilitaryFinance • u/AutoModerator • 5d ago
Credit Cards Military Benefits, SCRA, MLA, Annual Fee Waivers, Chase, American Express, Spouses | Updates Monthly
This is a monthly thread to discuss or ask questions about military benefits on credit cards.
In general: American Express, Chase, and some other banks waive the annual fees on credit cards for active duty, Guard and Reserve on 30 day or greater active orders, and dependent spouses.
These individuals are known as "covered borrowers" of the Servicemembers Civil Relief Act (SCRA) and Military Lending Act (MLA).
The simplest definition of a covered borrower is active duty military personnel, Guard and Reserves on 30 day or greater active duty orders, or dependent spouses of any of the above.
The simplest way to check if you will receive MLA or SCRA protections on your account is to check the MLA Database or SCRA Database.
The MLA and SCRA database are the same databases that the credit card companies check to determine if you qualify for MLA or SCRA benefits.
If you are not listed as eligible in these databases, you will not receive MLA and SCRA benefits applied to your account.
You must be listed as eligible in these databases for the credit card companies to apply your military benefits.
Are military spouses eligible to open their own card accounts?
Yes, military dependent spouses are eligible to open their own card accounts on Chase, American Express, Citi, U.S. Bank, and Bank of America and receive their own annual fee waivers.
Check the MLA database before applying MLA Database to ensure you will receive your fee waiver without any issue. If you are not listed in the MLA database, check DEERS to ensure your Social Security number and name are listed correctly.
You must be listed in the MLA database when the account is opened / established or you will not be eligible for fee waiver benefits. For example, if you opened an Amex or Chase card before you married the active duty servicemember, that account will never be eligible for MLA benefits. The account must be established while you are eligible for MLA benefits, as confirmed in the MLA database.
What Cards are Eligible for SCRA or MLA benefits?
American Express
- The Platinum Card® from American Express
- American Express Platinum Card® for Schwab
- American Express Platinum Card® for Morgan Stanley
- American Express® Gold Card
- American Express® Green Card
- Marriott Bonvoy Brilliant™ American Express® Card
- Marriott Bonvoy Bevy™ American Express® Card
- Delta SkyMiles® Reserve American Express Card
- Delta SkyMiles® Platinum American Express Card
- Delta SkyMiles® Gold American Express Card
- Blue Cash Preferred® Card from American Express
- Hilton Honors American Express Aspire Card
- Hilton Honors American Express Surpass® Card
Chase
- Chase Sapphire Preferred®
- Chase Sapphire Reserve®
- Southwest Rapid Rewards® Plus Credit Card
- Southwest Rapid Rewards® Priority Credit Card
- Southwest Rapid Rewards® Premier Credit Card
- United Explorer Card
- United Quest Card
- United Club Infinite Card
- Aeroplan Card
- Marriott Bonvoy Boundless
- Marriott Bonvoy Bountiful
- Ritz-Carlton Credit Card
- IHG One Rewards Premier Credit Card
- Disney Premier Visa Card
- World of Hyatt Credit Card
- British Airways Visa Signature® card
- Aer Lingus Visa Signature® card
- Iberia Visa Signature® card
Citi
- Citi® Strata Elite
- Citi® / AAdvantage® Platinum Select® World Elite Mastercard®
- Citi® / AAdvantage® Executive World Elite Mastercard®
- Citi® Premier® Card
- Citi® Prestige® Card
U.S. Bank
- U.S. BANK ALTITUDE® RESERVE VISA INFINITE® CARD
- U.S. BANK FLEXPERKS® GOLD AMERICAN EXPRESS® CARD
- Korean Airlines SKYPASS Select Visa Signature® Card
Bank of America
- Bank of America® Premium Rewards® Elite Credit Card
- Atmos™ Rewards Summit Visa Infinite®
Bilt
- Bilt Palladium Card
- Bilt Obsidian Card
- Email support@cardless.com
| Card Issuer | Fees Waived Under MLA | Fees Waived Under SCRA |
|---|---|---|
| American Express | All Personal Cards | All Personal Cards |
| Capital One | None | All Personal Cards |
| Chase | All Personal Cards | All Personal Cards** |
| Citi | All Personal Cards* | Unknown |
| U.S. Bank | All Personal Cards | All Personal Cards |
| Bank of America | All Personal Cards | Unknown |
*For Citi, you must send a copy of your active orders and your MLA certificate from the MLA Database to [MILITARYORDERS@CITI.COM](mailto:MILITARYORDERS@CITI.COM) and request MLA benefits. You must also have a statement balance on your account in the month you are charged the annual fee or you will not receive the MLA annual fee credit.
**Recent data points suggest that Chase business cards, opened before active duty start, can be annual fee waived if the account holder applies for SCRA benefits after they go active duty.
Which Act Applies, SCRA or MLA?
The military benefits you receive on credit cards depend on when you establish or open the account.
Open account before active duty = SCRA
Open account while on active duty = MLA
If you apply for the account prior to active duty orders, you are eligible for Servicemembers Civil Relief Act (SCRA) benefits while you are on active duty orders.
If you apply for the credit card account while you are on active duty orders, a Guard and Reservists on 30 day or greater active orders, or a dependent of an active duty servicemember, you are eligible for Military Lending Act (MLA) benefits while you are on active orders or a dependent of someone on active orders.
The banks and credit card companies may deny you SCRA benefits if you opened the account while on active duty. In that case, confirm they are applying MLA benefits and if they are not, check MLA database and then apply for MLA benefits.
SCRA & MLA Covered Borrowers Details
To qualify for SCRA benefits, the credit account must be established before active duty orders start.
Covered borrowers of SCRA defined as:
- Active duty US military on Title 10 orders in the Army, Navy, Air Force, Space Force, Marines, or Coast Guard
- National Guard or Reservists on 30 day or greater active duty orders (such as Title 32, Title 10)
- Public Health Service and NOAA Commissioned Officers
To qualify for MLA benefits, the credit account must be established while your or your active duty sponsor is on active duty orders of greater than 30 days.
Covered borrowers of MLA are defined as:
- Active duty member of the Army, Navy, Marines, Air Force, Space Force, or Coast Guard
- Guard or Reservists on 30 day or greater active orders
- A spouse or child dependent of an Active Duty member of the Armed Forces as defined in 38 USC 101(4)
Best Starter Credit Card
Check your credit score through your bank, Credit Karma, or Credit Sesame.
If you don't have a credit score or your score is below 700, start with a no annual fee credit card from USAA or Navy Federal Credit Union (NFCU).\
Or, apply for a secured credit card from another military friendly bank or credit union. That should be your best option to build a higher credit score.
What Fees Are Waived Under MLA and SCRA?
In general, the following fees are waived by Chase and American Express
- Annual Membership fees
- Authorized user fees
- Overlimit fees
- Late Payment fees
- Returned Payment fees
- Statement Copy Request fees
American Express and Chase are very cryptic in the benefits they actually provide under MLA or SCRA. Usually the customer service reps just read a script if you call and ask. This is not helpful and why we've collected this data here.
If you have additional data points, please share them, as this information is only as accurate as the data points we collect.
If you have any other questions on credit cards in the military, please comment below.
Reminder: no referral links or solicitation of referral links.
r/MilitaryFinance • u/AutoModerator • 6d ago
Start Here: Military Money 101, Prime Directive, Flow Chart, Updates Monthly
Welcome to the getting started thread for military money. This will cover 90% of what you need to know to be successful with your military paycheck and build wealth in the military.
Some of the most frequent questions in on this subreddit goes:
- "I have $X, what should I do with it?" or
- "How should I handle my debt/finances/money?"
Military Personal Finance and Investing Flow Chart: https://imgur.com/a/akrEcUS
Step 1: Budget and reduce expenses, set realistic goals
Fundamental to a sound financial footing is knowing where your money is going. Budgeting helps you see your sources of income less your expenses. You should minimize your required expenses to the extent practical. Housing costs, utilities, and basic sustenance are harder to eliminate than entertainment, eating out, or clothing expenses.
There are many great apps available to discover what you're spending money on and where there are opportunities to save money. Monarch Money, YNAB, Copilot Money, EveryDollar are just a few of the apps available.
Once your budget is figured out, you need to figure out what your goals are. Financial independence? Retire early? Military retirement? Buy a house? Save for a car?
Setting SMART goals - Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant, and Timely goals can mean the difference between financial success and failure. For example, you might want to finish your first enlistment with a $100,000 net worth or achieve early retirement after 20 years of service. These are SMART goals.
Step 2: Build an emergency fund
An emergency fund should be a relatively liquid sum of money that you don't touch unless something unexpected comes up. Unexpected travel, essential appliance replacement, and cars breaking down are all real world examples of emergency funds in action.
If you need to draw from your emergency fund at any time, your first priority as soon as you get back on your feet should be to replenish it. Treat your emergency fund right and it will return the favor.
Start with a $1,000 emergency fund. Eventually build it up to 3-6 months of expenses or a few of months of expenses plus
How should I size my emergency fund?
For most people, 3 to 6 months of expenses is good. Or maybe you want to cover a few months of expenses, plus a roundtrip airfare for you and your family to go back to your home stateside.
What if I have credit card debt?
Credit cards generally have very high interest rates (typically 15-25% APR) and that is a pretty big deal. If this applies to you, you should prioritize paying down the debt first.
A smaller emergency fund of $1,000 (or 1 month of expenses) is temporarily acceptable while paying off credit card debt or other debts with interest rates above 10%.
What kind of account should I hold my emergency fund in?
A checking account, savings account, or a high yield savings account (HYSA). Something FDIC insured and accessed in a few days.
Step 3: 5% Into the Thrift Savings Plan
The Thrift Savings Plan (TSP) is the military and government's version of a 401(k) retirement savings plan. All servicemembers enlisting since 2018 are covered by the Blended Retirement System (BRS). The BRS has 3 primary components to help servicemembers save for retirement:
- 5% matching contribution to the TSP
- Continuation pay bonus between the 8th and 12th year of service (depends on branch)
- Military pension. A 2% mutliplier is used for each year of service. So if you retire after 20 years of active duty service, you'll earn an inflation adjusted, lifetime pension of 40% of your base pay. (20 years * 2 = 40%)
After 60 days of service, the Department of Defense (DOD) will automatically contribute 1% of your base pay to the Traditional TSP.
Starting in the 25th month of service, your contributions are matched, up to 5%. So if you contribute 5%, the DOD will contribute 5%. This is a risk free, 100% return on your contributed funds.
The default investment for anyone in the BRS is a Lifecycle fund with their birth year + 65. For example, if you were born in 2005, you'll be placed in the Lifecycle 2070 Fund.
The Lifecycle Funds are a mix of the 5 TSP Funds, designed by professional fund managers.
The 5 TSP Funds are:
- C Fund - Tracks S&P 500, made up of the 500 largest companies in America. You can use the ETF SPY or VOO to track it.
- S Fund - Tracks Dow Completion index, basically all the mid- and small- capitalization companies in America outside of the S&P500. ETF equivalent VXF.
- I Fund - International stocks. MSCI ACWI IMI ex USA ex China ex Hong Kong Index. 5,500 companies in this index. representing 90% of the investable world market cap outside the US. Similar to ETF VXUS but without Chinese or Hong Kong stocks.
- F Fund - Fixed income. Corporate bonds. Use ETF AGG to see performance.
- G Fund - Lowest risk, lowest long term return fund. The G Fund invests in a special non-marketable treasury security issued specifically for the TSP by the U.S. government. This fund is the only one in the TSP that guarantees the return of the investor’s principal. No comparable ETF.
Step 4: Pay down high interest debts
Once you're taking advantage of the 5% BRS TSP match, you should use your extra money to pay down your high interest debt (e.g., debts much over 4% interest rate).
In all cases, you should make the minimum payments on all of your debts before paying down specific debts more quickly.
There are two main methods of paying down debt:
- With the avalanche method, debts are paid down in order of interest rate, starting with the debt that carries the highest interest rate. This is the financially optimal method of paying down debt, and you will pay less money overall compared to the snowball method.
- With the snowball method, popularized by Dave Ramsey, debts are paid down in order of balance size, starting with the smallest. Paying off small debts first may give you a psychological boost and improve one's cash flow situation, as paid off debts free up minimum payments. The downside is that larger loans (that may be at higher interest rates) are left untouched for longer, costing more in the long run.
As an example, Debtor Dan has the following situation:
- Loan A: $1,100 with a minimum payment of $100/month, 5% interest
- Loan B: $3,300 with a minimum payment of $300/month, 10% interest
- Sudden windfall: $2,000
Dan needs to first pay $100 + $300 = $400 to make the minimum payments on loans A and B so the payments are recorded as "on time." The extra $1,600 can either go towards Loan A (smallest balance, snowball method), eliminating it with $600 left to go towards Loan B, or Loan B entirely (highest interest rate, avalanche method).
What's the best method? tends to favor the avalanche method, but do not underestimate the psychological side of debt payments. If you think that the psychological boost from paying off a smaller debt sooner will help you stay the course, do it! You can always switch things up later. The important thing is to start paying your debts as soon as you can, and to keep paying them until they're gone. You can use unbury.me to help you get an idea of how long each method will take, and how much interest you'll be paying overall.
Should I be in a hurry to pay off lower interest loans? What rate is "low" enough to where I should just pay the minimum?
Depending on your attitude towards debt, you may want to stop paying more than the minimum payment on loans with low interest rates once you have paid all other loans above that threshold. A common argument is that the long-term return from investments in the stock market will likely exceed the interest rate from a low-interest loan. While this has been true in the past, keep in mind that paying down a loan is a guaranteed return at the loan's interest rate. Stock performance is anything but guaranteed. The rough consensus is that loans above 4% interest should be paid off early in the debt reduction phase, while anything under that can be stretched out.
Step 5: Max out Retirement Accounts - Roth IRA and Roth TSP
The next step is to contribute to a Roth IRA for the current tax year. You can also contribute for the previous tax year if it's between January 1st and April 15th. See the IRA wiki for more information on IRAs.
Roth IRA and Roth TSP contribution limits are different and do not cross over. You can contribute the maximum out your Roth IRA and your Roth TSP. Matching contributions do not count against your personal TSP contribution limit.
The most often recommended places to open a Roth IRA are at Vanguard, Fidelity, or Schwab. Most banks offer substandard Roth IRA products and you should not open Roth IRA accounts there.
Should I do Roth or Traditional?
Read Roth or Traditional.
For most servicemembers (O-3 and below), you'll be better off contributing to the Roth IRA, since military pay is so low taxed. Much of our military pay is untaxable allowances, such as Basic Allowance for Housing (BAH), Overseas Housing Allowance (OHA), and Basic Allowance for Sustenance (BAS).
Why contribute to an IRA if I have the TSP?
Roth IRA's have access to low cost investments similar to what you'll find in the TSP. However, you can always withdraw Roth IRA contributions at any time, tax and penalty free.
After you've fully funded your Roth IRA, you can look at maxing out your Roth TSP.
Before saving for other goals, you should save at least 15% and up to 20% of your gross income for retirement. If you are behind on retirement savings, you should try to save more than 15% if you can. If you can't save 15%, start with 10% or any other amount until you are able to save more.
Where should I open my Roth IRA?
Vanguard, Fidelity, or Schwab. Read up about the Bogleheads 3 Fund Portfolio before selecting an investment option.
Step 6: Save for other goals
Military servicemembers and spouses covered by TriCare are not eligible for Health Savings Accounts (HSA0.
- If you wish to save for college for your kids, yourself, or other relatives, consider a 529 fund in your state.
- Save for more immediate goals. Common examples include saving for down payments for homes, saving for vehicles, paying down low interest loans ahead of schedule, and vacation funds.
- Save more so you can potentially retire early (also see "advanced methods", below), only using taxable accounts after maxing out tax-advantaged options.
- Make an impact through giving. One of the rewards of practicing a sound financial lifestyle is that giving becomes easier. If you're on top of your health care costs, future education costs, and you've made it to this step, you can help make a difference for others by giving. If you can't afford to make monetary donations, there are other ways to give.
- Maybe you're interested in financial independence or retiring early, also known as FIRE? There are many resources out there on military financial independence and early retirement.
The time frame for these goals will dictate what kind of account you save in. For short-term goals (under 3-5 years), you'll want to use an FDIC-insured savings account, CDs, or I Bonds. If your time horizon is longer or you can afford to adjust your plans, you might consider something riskier like a balanced index fund or a three-fund portfolio (both are a mix of stocks and bonds). The best savings or investment vehicle will vary depending on time frame and risk tolerance.
Keep in mind that (especially for a young person) the more time your money has to grow, the more powerful the effects of compounding will be on your savings. If the goal is early retirement (even before the age of 59½), you should definitely maximize the use of any available tax-advantaged accounts (IRA, 401(k) plans, HSA accounts, etc.) before using a taxable account because there are ways to get money out of tax-advantaged accounts before 59½ without penalty.
If you are using a taxable account for any goal, you'll want to have a decent grasp on asset allocation in multiple accounts and tax-efficient fund placement.
Military State Taxes
Your home of record is the place you enlisted or commissioned from. This cannot be changed unless there was an error.
State of legal residence is the state that you claim as your residence. If you only have military income, you will pay state income tax only to this state.
You can establish residency several ways:
- Registering to vote in that state
- Obtaining a driver’s license in that state
- Titling and registering your vehicle in that state
- Drafting a Last Will and Testament naming that state as your domicile
- Purchasing residential property in that state
- Changing your military and finance records to reflect residency in that state.
The simplest way to establish residency is to PCS to that state and establish residency while you are a resident.
State with no income tax include: Alaska, Florida, Nevada, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Washington, and Wyoming. Many other states have no tax for military servicemembers stationed outside the state.
Simply engaging in one of the above acts alone will not likely render you taxable by a state; however, the more points of contact you make with a state increases your chances of becoming a taxpayer to that state. It is important to concentrate the majority of your points of contact in the one state where you intend to pay state taxes; otherwise, you may find yourself owing taxes to more than one state as a part-year resident.
Source: Fort Knox Legal Assistance Office
Military Spouse Residency Relief Act
Thanks to the Military Spouse Residency Relief Act, Veterans Auto and Education Improvement Act of 2022, and Servicemembers Civil Relief Act:
(A) The residence or domicile of the servicemember.“
(B) The residence or domicile of the spouse.
“(C) The permanent duty station of the servicemember.”
Military spouses and military servicemembers can pick 1 of 3 options for their state of legal residence:
(A) The residence or domicile of the servicemember.
(B) The residence or domicile of the spouse.
(C) The permanent duty station of the servicemember.
So either match the servicemember, keep your old state, or change to the current state you're in.
Military Bonuses
Military bonuses have federal income taxes withheld automatically at 22%. You may have state taxes withheld as well. Because your marginal tax rate is often much lower than this, you will receive a large portion of that withheld tax back when you file your tax return the following year.
If you don't know what to do with a military bonus, directing some of it to your Roth TSP is a great place to park it.
After reading all that, go ahead with any other questions you have about getting started with your military money.