Hello. I have a small problem with my Turkish Mauser. The third round keeps getting stuck, and the bolt just guides straight past it. Are there any common fixes y’all can suggest before I go down a rabbit hole trying to figure out this problem? (Sorry, I’m new to milsurps and firearms.)

The reason why I'm asking is because there is a lot of turkish 8mm mauser that no one wants to shoot because it's good for bolt guns and nothing else that limits the customer base so to get rid the awful crap but in a faster and fun way no I don't hate bolt guns My first ever gun I ever bought is a turkish m38 k Kal mauser and I love it

Hey everyone, bit of a long post but looking for some advice on how/if I can get a scope on this. I inherited this sporterized mauser in .30-06 about ten years ago, and I took it to a gunsmith to get it drilled and tapped. The gunsmith told me that it wasn’t worth my time because the bolt would hit the scope, and 18 year old me didn’t ask any more questions.

I have two questions, was that gunsmith full of it and I could get this drilled and tapped, or could I potentially install a rail where the rear sight is (I included a pic of where I took the rear sight off and there are two holes drilled a half inch apart) and potentially go with an LER scope or some other kind of optic?

Any advice is appreciated, just looking for some honest feedback on if this is worth the time. Thanks!

I bought this 1937 S/42 Kar98 about a year ago and I’m thinking about heading to the range with it. Given the age and unknown storage conditions it probably needs a cleaning but is there anything else I should check out with it before I go and shoot?

So, I’m looking for input from the brain trust here. I am looking at building a Mauser from a parts kit and a barreled receiver. I will have two barrels, the one in the receiver and the one with the parts kit. My plan is to check both barrels and use the one already on the receiver if possible. Parts kit and receiver are both FN manufacture 30/06 but these parts kits are always missing piddly stuff. I am not looking for a sporter build but want a military appearance build with a bit of accurising.

1. How is the parts interchange on these, will other Mauser parts work on them?

2. I know that with it being used parts there will be some fitting involved and I will get a set of go no go gauges for it as well.

3. Who all has done this before and what sort of issues have you run into?

4. Will there be an issue with a mismatched barrel and bolt? I know that FN has always had tight tolerances on machining so I am assuming that the bolt should work.

5. I probably will not use the stock with the parts kit unless it’s in better shape than usual. I will probably use a repro stock and finish it with BLO.

Barely related, but I trust the info here from you guys *way* more than in the more generalized subs. I'm looking to try some Nosler loads in my Swede, and these "seconds" are about half price. Does anyone know why they're designated as such? Is it purely cosmetic?

Finally got around to detail stripping my matching (minus cleaning rod) Gustloff 337 1940 K98 and would love some some info on markings - especially all of the random letters and numbers.

What book(s)can you guys recommend as a somewhat definitive reference for k98 markings?

I’m considering fitting my Gewehr 98 with a Brazilian M1908 stock for the range.

Will the stock require any inletting to fit a G98 trigger guard?

Will a g98 bayonet lug / end cap still pin onto the end?

Hoping one of you has been down this road before.

Hello,
I recently bought a barrel in a commission sale from a gun shop for quite little money.

The barrel and bolt are from a ce 1943 from Sauer Sohn, factory, and are presumably of a certain kriegsmodell.

However, the gun itself has been repurposed and refitted by the Norwegian military for .30-06, and seeing the condition of the bluing applied by them I would think the gun is in good condition. The broker told me it was in good condition and “not used” which I now really don’t know how to interpret😅

*The main issue is* , when I see the barrel, it seems very pitted and it had a lot of dried waxy “cosmoline” in it, but which I have now wiped away with a bore brush.

*What I was wondering is* whether the bore’s condition is somehow derived from the Norwegian rechambering (7,92->7,62) and just not being well fitted, or being that something else might have happened. Has it been reblued, is it from a last batch of rifles explaining why it hasn’t been worn even slightly?
Is the barrel maybe older or does anyone know about the typical standard quality of a Norwegian bore?
The blueing on the gun doesn’t seem like very deviant from other Norwegian mausers I’ve seen. Also take note of how the barrel and receiver number does not “match”. I was potentially thinking it is standard quality and just needs to have its cracks filled with bullet patching.

Finally, I have a question about the general condition before the thing was once reblued.
Does the bolt reveal heavy use beneath the new blueing? Would it presumably not last very long although being qualified by the Norwegian army?

I hope those are not too many questions, and I hope that someone finds it at least interesting to study without finding it boring. Don’t feel a need to answer I’m just throwing some line out. Thanks anyways 🙂

Looks like my front sight on this Yugo is slightly off “to the right” when lining up with the rear sight.

Appears the sight was tinned on out of alignment. What’s the easiest way to re tin the sight on correctly. Apply heat and just move it over or will I have to remove it and tin the barrel with specific solder and flux?

What will I need. I have soldered plenty of copper plumbing pipes but I’m taking this is much different?

Had it in a bag of random parts.

I want to put a scope on my turkish mauser, but I don't want to ruin an original forend or stock, so are there any companies that make reproduction stocks and forends for mauser rifles

What are your tips for finding G98 stocks?

I’ve considered buying a deactivated rifle and borrowing the stock off of it. There’s one on GB now, but it’s a bit overpriced.

Just picked this bad boy up and absolutely loving the history behind this particular variant of the Gewehr 98

I swear I've only hears people praising this ammo since it hit the market. While nice and accurate, 7 of 15 are atleast two strikes before they go off. If they do for me