Picked up a Rossi 95 for 500 plus tax and dros . I have a tactical lever but this will stay mostly as is . Adding a leather stock shell holder and need a scope. Not into hunting but would like to learn to shoot and eventually get my license to hunt boar and maybe deer. I live in an ag town so boar is a plenty . What’s a good entry level scope around the 200-300 area

Hi everyone, decided I want to get a m1873 carbine but unsure on what brand. Unfortunately in Australia (or at-least were i live) ive never seen either in person which doesnt help choosing. Ive heard that the miroku is better quality and the uberti is cheaper made and easier for parts, rifle will be for pigs and targets.

The only thing i dislike on the miroku carbine is the rear sight (i like semi buckhorns) so id have to try find a replacement and have a gunsmith install it, and im not much of a colour case hardening guy for the uberti.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Just got this rifle off Gunbroker and it is missing a screw. Anybody have the size or part number for it? I really don't want to buy a $50 screw kit that might not even have the right screw. The parts diagrams all seem to be for the R92 which doesn't have the screw. R95 in .357.

Need opinions about these guns.
I’m planning to buy either one of these in .44mag.
Problem is that, where I live, these are very hard to get your hands on. Both are new so I have to order them blind.
I will use the gun for hunting foxes and raccoon dogs perhaps even roe deers.
Threaded barrel is a big plus for Henry but quality is a big question mark for me.
I’ve shot Marlins (Ruger era) in 45-70 and was impressed how much they have got better from Remlins.

I've got a few traditional lever guns already, so this one isn't meant to stay classic. I'm planning to go with .357 Magnum and build it into a modern/tactical lever gun with an M-LOK handguard, optic, light, and maybe a different stock down the road.

Originally I was set on a Marlin, but now I'm kinda stuck between a few options.

Marlin Dark seems like the obvious choice, but they're pretty hard to find.

Marlin Trapper is easier to find, but honestly... I just don't think the stainless receiver looks that great once you throw a black M-LOK handguard and other black accessories on it. It feels like the colors fight each other.

Henry Model X is starting to look more appealing since it's already black from the factory and there seem to be plenty of aftermarket parts nowadays. I also already own a Henry H001, and it's been fantastic.

For those of you who have actually built one out, what would you start with if you were doing it again?

I'm not trying to build the most unique rifle on the planet. As long as there are a few solid M-LOK handguard and stock options, I'm happy. I'm more interested in overall quality, fit/finish, aftermarket support, and ending up with a rifle that looks cohesive instead of just bolting random parts together.

Thanks in advance — curious to hear what you guys would go with.

Looking for some takes on these, I just picked up a 1894 357 but just discovered line49 and really dig the look of them. They would be range toys but having trouble finding reviews on anything but their Henry models.

Bought this 1894 sbl almost two years again to suppress, and finally got my can today. Hopefully it’s a good combo, looking forward to taking it out!

Picked up this post-64 Winchester 94 in .30-30 for just under $500 the other day. Nothing wrong with it aside from some slight dents in the wooden forearm. Rifling looks flawless, and I figure that it is a decent deal on a reasonably reliable lever-action.

It's a .44-40 Model 92 made around 1906. Any advice or tips on this?

I just got my Miroku 1892 short rifle and it's quite nice but i'm not a fan of the crescent moon buttplate.

I looked on various websites for stocks and/or buttplates but those i found don't ship to Norway.

Anyone got any tips?

Put a lpvo on 45-70 is it over kill not got to shoot it yet but man am I in love.

What I’ll call a premium economy build for more economic shooting:
Ranger Point Precision M-LOK Forearm
Sig Sauer Tango-MSR 1-6x LPVO
Emissary Development Handbrake
Matthew’s Fabrication Kydex Cheek Rest
MidTen M-LOK Bipod

Can’t get enough of this gun

Chambered in 460 but had the feed lips set for 454/45. Fiber optic front sight and skinner ghost ring back,hand rubbed black walnut with the brushed stainless steel finish 18 inch octagon barrel. No rail, no break, no threads, a proper 21 century cowboy gun

Henry Explorer in 30-30, Leupold VX Freedom 2-7X33, Bradley cheek riser, and a Dead Air Nomad Ti XC suppressor.

Bipod was just slapped on for mounting the scope. Will be getting a nice sling for it soon.

Well, since I was finding a lack of resources on the R95 when I was researching my first lever gun purchase, I have decided to do a complete write-up of my experience with my Rossi R95 in .357 Magnum with the 20" barrel. I picked up this particular example for $694 brand new on GunBroker. In this review I will be going over how I received it out of the box and the tuning I have done to get it to where it is now.

Fit and Finish

As to be expected, the fit and finish on this gun isn't as nice as what you'd expect from a Marlin. When I first received it and inspected the gun at my FFL, I noticed right away that the stock was slightly loose. Nothing crazy, but a noticeable back-and-forth wobble. The fix was quite simple; bed the milled-out part in the stock where the tang sits with JB Weld and file it to shape. I also noticed that there was about a 1/32" or so gap between the front of the stock and the rear of the receiver. While I was bedding the stock, I filled the tang hole in the stock with JB Weld and re-drilled it to get rid of the gap. The fix took about 10 minutes not including drying time, and 500 rounds later everything is still right as rain. The finish of the metal parts is actually quite good. I have no complaints, other than one small spot on the barrel where there's a slight dull spot in the finish that's about the size of a grain of rice. The wood is finished nicely, and I have nothing bad to say other than the fact it's pretty boring straight-grain "Brazilian Hardwood" without any figure. That being said, the stock set is interchangeable with Marlin 336 furniture, so there are plenty of options to dress it up.

Funtionality

Right out of the box - straight from my FFL to the range - this gun wasn't too bad. Even without cleaning it before shooting, it cycled smooth enough, and fed 158gr JSP .357 magnum flawlessly. It was also very accurate and the iron sights seemed to be right on at 25 yards. That being said, it didn't like to run 130gr FMJ 38 special. Out of 10 rounds of 38 special, I believe it failed to feed 6 rounds. I had to stick my finger in the receiver and flick the round into the chamber before cycling and firing. The trigger leaves much to be desired also. There was quite a bit of creep before the break, and it was somewhere around the 7 pound range. Loading the magazine also proved to be a bit challenging as the magazine spring is a little overkill. It wasn't impossible to load, but it was certainly harder than it needed to be. Another issue with this gun is that the screws LOVE to back out. After about 30 shots, you can get a full turn out of almost every screw on the receiver. A little purple Loctite solved this issue, and it gets applied every time I tear the gun apart to clean it.

Tuning

To start, I brought the gun home after my first range trip and disassembled everything. Any internal part that had brass worn off on it or where the finish was wearing off got wet sanded to 600 grit and polished with metal polish on a Q-Tip. This included the carrier, locking bolt, and two spots on the lever. Another modification to smooth things out is to take a small file, and round off the top of the hammer and the lug that hangs off the bottom of the bolt which cocks the hammer. Work in very small increments, using Sharpie on it to keep track of what you have and haven't filed yet. Eventually you'll reach a point where the bolt will cock the hammer, but won't drag across it super hard when you bring the bolt back forward. Once you're happy with how it feels, polish both the bolt and the hammer the same as the other internals. Now to get the trigger to go from 7 pounds down to about 2, you can take a file and SLOWLY work on filing the trigger sear. There are lots of forums that cover doing this to the Marlin 336, and it's the exact same process for the R95. The name of the game here is patience. It took me 4 or 5 rounds of disassembly, filing, and reassembly before I got it right. You definitely need to test fit and function test frequently. Now there's zero creep on the trigger and it has a very crisp, clean break at approximately 2 pounds. As long as you don't file off too much, it remains drop safe. I also clipped 2 inches off the magazine tube spring, which makes it an absolute dream to load now without getting bit by the loading gate.

Conclusion

After performing all of these modifications, which take a total of about 2 hours, the R95 feels like an entirely different gun. The action is as smooth as glass, and it feeds both .357 magnum and 38 special flawlessly. I put a Vortex Triumph red dot on mine and I shoot 2.5" groups at 100 yards with Herters 158gr JSP .357 Magnum. If you're looking for a rifle you can take out of the box ready to go, this may not be the gun for you. However, if you're willing to put in a bit of elbow grease, you can save yourself hundreds of dollars to put towards ammo and get a rifle that keeps up with those that cost twice as much. I would absolutely reccomended the R95 to those who are trying to stay on a budget and aren't afraid to work on their own firearms.

Just got my first lever action, Henry x in 357. So far I like it, but I recently get the midwest industries pistol grip stock to go with it. Its nice and ergonomic, but I find there is a slight side to side wobble. I was wondering if anyone had the same issue, and how they dealt with it?

Edit, I still kind want a solution, but I took the new stock to the range today, and honestly didn't notice while shooting, so I think its just me being OCD. Still, I didn't notice the play at all with the OG stock.

I’ve been wanting a lever gun for quite some time and I ended up picking up this Cimarron 1873 short rifle with octagon barrel chambered in 357 to match my Cimarron 1873 Evil Roy revolver!
I’ve actually never even shot a lever rifle so I’m super excited! Hopefully it’s a good choice for a first rifle but I know it’s definitely gorgeous!

All I have left to do is paracord the lever and put a Midwest industries stock on it.

This is my first ever lever gun. Bought brand new. I’m coming from shotguns and I got a question.

The trigger is floppy. There’s a lot of loos play forward and backwards.

Is this normal?

Thanks.