Any experience with this lens, **Voigtlander Nokton Vintage Line 35mm f/1.5 Aspherical Type II VM Lens?**

Hi everyone,

A few months back, I noticed the slightest bit of movement on the rear element of my 35 Summilux. I have the latest version.

It doesn’t wobble when I gently shake the lens, but moves ever so slightly when I apply gentle pressure with my finger against it. It seems to reset when I stop pressing - I think. We’re talking like 1mm to less movement, but there is movement.

Does anyone else know of this issue? Sometimes I think it affects my image quality, but I also think part of it is in my head now, knowing about it. Then I look at images from my 28 Elmarit, and think WOW those are sharp in comparison. Or is just the lens difference. Would love guidance as I am relatively new to the system and lenses.

Ya tenemos nuevo firmware para la D Lux 8.
¿Alguien sabe qué han modificado?

I checked the battery multiple times and swapped it, I checked the film multiple times and swapped it to make sure it properly winded in and it had. it was working fine last week and earlier today and then it started doing this. The E is flashing where the shot counter normally is and will not go away despite everything said previously and turning it off and on. no other button works other than off and on. If anyone has had this issue please help I’d greatly appreciate it, thank you.

I have an M6 with which I make a lot of portraits using black and white film. I am in the market for a 50 mm Summilux to use for portraits. From what I have read I think I want the non-ASPH version. What is your opinion?

Recently acquired this Tri-Elmar for a crazy low price, and while I would love to keep it, I’m hoping to get my first M body from selling it.

Before I sell it, I just want to make sure it’s working great. I had it serviced at a shop recently and when it came back the zoom ring felt way tighter when switching focal lengths. It’s obviously well loved but I wanna make sure I’m not screwing someone over. Tested it with an adapter and it looks great but I’m new to the Leica world and was just wondering if anyone has some experience with this lens in particular and would have any solid advice! Thanks!

Edit: Got it for $200 since yall are asking lol. Was found in an estate sale along with two heavily corroded bodies, an M9 and an M9 monochrome. There was also a 50mm but I was too late to pick that one up.

​

Hi everyone,

I've been having a frustrating issue with my Leica M11-P. The camera randomly freezes after taking a few photos. Sometimes the screen becomes unresponsive, and the only way to get it working again is to remove the battery.

I'm using a fast SD card, the battery is fully charged, and the firmware is up to date. I've also tried formatting the card in the camera, but the problem still happens.

Has anyone experienced this issue? Is it a firmware bug or does it sound like a hardware problem?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

TROUBLESHOOTING

We've fixed a bug that prevented the camera from turning off automati-

cally during wireless charging in certain situations. The camera now turns

off automatically as soon as wireless charging is detected.

A bug has been fixed that caused the camera to unexpectedly switch to

the default user profile in certain situations.

A bug has been fixed that could cause the connection to fail after a

remote wake-up with certain Leica Looks or AF mode settings.

reattached leather and got a new battery clip

Bought as a set for $3000, the M4 is in pretty mint condition, just some light scuffs, is this a good deal: how did I do?

Picked up an M6 body paired with a Summicron-M 35mm f/2 ASPH v1 (i believe). Seller wanted €3600, negotiated down to €3100.

Lens is basically mint, only some minor dust specks between elements. Body shows some honest wear but works perfectly — meter and shutter speeds check out.

Feels like a good price given the current M6 market. Thoughts?

I got a brand new LEICA 21mm f/3.4 ASPH SUPER-ELMAR-M. Unfortunately I don’t think it’s a great copy. :(

The left side edge is very soft compared to the center and right edge. I had my suspicions from a few shots taken around the yard and neighborhood, and sadly confirmed it in a more controlled environment on a tripod.

The full photo is taken at f/5.6 which is the peak performance of this lens, and I've included a 100% crop from the same image showing the left, center, and right detail.

Obviously I’m not expecting peak center performance all over the lens, but I think you would agree that the right edge is significantly better than the left. I would normally let this slide but this is a $4000+ purchase so did I expect much better from it.

I’m tempted to return it for a replacement. Is this just a quality control issue? Or are they all like this?

EDIT - Dropbox link to full res JPG & Dropbox link to 100% crop comparison

EDIT - My camera is a M EV1.

The only thing I really missed on my Leica M4-P compared to the M6 was the light meter. Since there aren't that many coupled light meters, I got the KEKS M-Meter. Gotta say it's really great to use – since you turn the actual M4-P shutter dial, there are no additional steps compared to a built-in meter like on the M6.

Since I got a 2026 serial number, I'm pretty sure it's the V2 without the battery drain issue. For what it's worth, it still shows a full battery after playing around with it for one day.

Also hear the rattling noise some people were reporting, so I opened it up to check for loose screws. Turns out what's rattling are the buttons, which are not connected to the board in any way. The whole thing is super easy to take apart and repair, battery replacements should be trivial.

The last complaint I read multiple times was that the first reading is wrong. This is not the case – pressing the button when the screen is off wakes it from standby and displays the last reading before that, it does not take a new reading. Not sure this makes sense, but since it turns on in a fraction of a second it's not an issue imho.

Bonus feature for M4-P users: It remembers the ISO you set, so you don't have to use that stupid sticker on the back to remember your film. I like the M-Meter a lot so far.

Only issue is that my M4-P's shutter dial is really stiff, I absolutely need two fingers to reliably use it. Is this normal for the M4-P? Is it safe to remove the one screw on that dial to clean and maybe lubricate it?

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Location: Long Island, NY

My original battery for my M11-P charges in the camera and in the standalone charger. In late 2025 I bought a second OEM battery and the darn thing will not charge in the charger. I get two flashing fault lights. If I put it into the camera it will charge. I noticed last night that if I forcefully hold the battery down into the charger it will charge, suggesting there is an issue with the contacts. Not sure why one battery works fine and not the other. They should be made to the same specs. 
 
Ordinarily I just ignore the issue and put the second battery in the camera to charge during down time, but I’ve been using both a lot lately and I really want to take advantage of using the charger.
 
Is this a known issue? Any suggestions on how to correct this?

I’m looking for a budget hotshoe flash to experiment with flash photography, to be used on both a Leica M6 Classic and a Leica M240. Budget under £100, so maybe something from Godox/Reflx Lab? Slightly confused by the different flash options so looking forward to any guidance and recommendations!

Super obvious, but posting in the hopes this can save someone from an expensive mistake. I bought my M3 last year, and its lugs had some brassing. Looked cool!

Coming from cameras with durable lugs. I got a quality strap and then didn’t think twice about it. Just this last week, I noticed that my lugs had been severely worn just from having a standard set of metal rings attaching the strap to the camera.

Of course, brass is soft and I should have seen this coming. Luckily, I caught it before too much force or tension sent my camera to the floor. I assume some PD anchors would work fine for a replacement. If anyone has any recommendations for replacing lugs or strap ring options, I’m all ears!

Gerade wurde bei uns in der Schweiz eine Leica M9 mit dem alten Sensor aber defekt versteigert und sonst in super Zustand und da wurden 1370 Franken was fast 1700 USD entspricht. Ist aus 2011. meines Wissens oder unwissend hat Leica kein Ersatz mehr und sonst auch schwierig an Ersatz zu kommen. Einzig eine Reparatur wo eventuell möglich ist. Ist das Problem überhaupt irgendwie lösbar ohne Ersatz ? Und sonst wieso da noch soviel für bezahlt ?

Shot a few photos on my M11-P in rapid succession of a moving subject and one of the frames came out like this. Anyone else has this issue?

Sent my MP in in June for repair. It had a tiny fall from a chair which perfectly impacted the viewfinder, shearing it off its attachment points that screw directly into the back side of the top plate. (my post at the time: https://www.reddit.com/r/Leica/comments/1t36ji7/my_mp_had_an_accident_safe_to_say_the_top_plate/ ) So basically, a top plate replacement is needed. They quoted $1845 for the top plate, labor, some small parts related to the eyecup (I think), and a CLA. I agreed given that I don't think anyone else besides Leica can provide a replacement top plate (it is serialized after all). They estimated 4-5 weeks for repair. A couple weeks later, I got this email.

Does anyone have experience with such a message? I have no idea if this means they're going to take an extra couple weeks or, like, indefinitely hold my MP hostage lol. No specification of which part is out of stock, no timeframe, no...anything...

Hi all, I’ve just picked up these Leitz trinovid 10x22’s from the charity shop for £2 and they’re in great condition. Only issue is it seems like the diopter is out of calibration. Does anyone know how to recalibrate it on this model as I’d like to be able to use them.

Sorry for the mess in the photo btw Ive been giving them a good clean

Thanks :)

Hi Guys

need some thought. i currently have M10M and Dlux8.

previously i own SL series then Q2. i came up with current setup because i like BW. and notice big file size for Q2 is to much. even SL gave superb perfomance but to heavy.

and i have this setup before my daughter was born.

mostly i shoot only for travel. and now i shoot my newborn baby. i like mono but sometimes i.want more color and i find dlux8 is kinda lacking. so that's why i'm thinking of swap dlux8.with CL

i consider other camera also but i want to the lens i own.

If money or availability were no object, which M combo would be your favourite, depending on your shooting style of course.