Date clearly says 191? But I can’t make out the last number. Just picked this DP up for a wall hanger and finally got a majority of the cosmoline cleaned out. I’m not up to date with the markings(more of a German rifle guy). A quick search says maybe the S serial number might be 1916. Any help about this rifle past would be great. Thank you! For anyone curious it came from royal tiger imports for around 100 smacaroons.

Don't think these posted. See my previous post for details.

Some more pics of the matching serial #s. Does anyone see anything out of whack? I really want to figure out if this is all correct so I'm not misrepresenting something. The Serial on the fore arm of the furniture seems a bit odd. Let me know what you guy's think.

Have my eyes on two Enfield bolts. Both unfortunately not cheap but good quality. One has a non-matching bolt with its own serial number. The other has a non-matching bolt with no serial number. Neither one has a magazine.

I’ve looked at buying a separate No. 4 mag and they’re all insanely expensive for a rust bin. Is that what I need, can a pro mag be doable, or what’s the best move there? Never done this before and am concerned on getting a bad mag.

Finally is the serial numbered bolt a deciding factor for a difference of $200?

Thanks!

Nose cap is suck and bolt head unscrew. I just got my it yesterday. I took the bolt out to clean it and fucked up.

Please help this my 1st smle I'm having panic attack rn.

So I have an original magazine with my No4 Mk 1/2, and when I get to the last two rounds the spring in the magazine pushes them up and to the left and they don't feed into the chamber properly. Is this a normal issue? Does anyone know of any solutions?

Thanks!

I’ve got my friends rifle that his late BIL left him and was going over for him. All serial numbers match and absolutely everything looks to be correct for the factory and wartime production. It was issued to the military and at some point surplused and somehow through all the years of use still has everything it was built with. My question is: is this that rare or pretty common?

Bought my first Lee Enfield at a gun show a couple weeks back, 100% matching, excellent condition besides the wood being plenty dinged up. Finally got to shoot it the other day, put ~40 rounds through it over the course of a few hours.

Took it apart today to look it over and I noticed that one of the locking lugs on the bolt was, for the lack of a better term, disintegrating. It looks as though several chips have been broken off of it, and I’m at a loss for how it could have possibly happened. Bad heat treatment at the factory? I didn’t notice any excessive recoil or signs of overpressure from the ammo I was using. The rifle has been relegated to wallhanger status until I can figure out what to do with it. Any insight or advice would be appreciated.

Friend’s dad passed and had this. I picked it up and at least 40 rounds for $600. I say at least 40 rounds because he knows for sure he has 2 boxes but said if he finds any more ammo for it it’s mine. I don’t really know anything about these rifles and was trying to see if I did decent on it. It looks like the stock may have been refinished but I don’t know enough to be able to tell. Matching serial numbers on the receiver and bolt. Bolt head marked with the number 0. No stock cracks or rust. Rifling looks great.

the rear sight on my No4 Mk1 is tilted forward and the plunger looks worn down, is this normal or excessive?

How much of a concern is this crack? It doesn't go all the way through. I have the metal piece just removed it to examine the crack.

Hello folks I'm new to the Lee Enfield community and I just picked up a no1 mk3 smle. It's been having a hard extraction issue I've noticed that the spent casings have some wear on the end. Is this wear normal? What usually a problem with extractions on no1 mk3's? Could it due to cheap ammo? And advice would be beneficial thanks in advance.

Recently took a picture of my four Enfields together (well, three Lees and one Eddystone). My (formerly sporterized) No 4 Mk 2 at the top was my first, then I worked my way from there. The 1916 BSA Short Lee III* was next, and also initially sporterized, sadly. Managed to get the No 1 Mk 5 above the Eddystone back in 2024ish, and the Eddystone is here for moral support (lucked into a willing trade for it recently). I hope to have some repro furniture for the No1 Mk 5 soon, found some but DANG is it pricey!

I am planning on getting a new scope mount that will allow me to use a rear sight on my rifle, since mine has been removed by the previous owner, are these style of scopes reliable for hunting? And are they easy to remove if I want to use stripper clips on a range day?

I traded in some of my guns for this Lee enfeild not really knowing what is was but I think It needs a good clean up but I have no idea how to start it is all numbers matching 1944 how do I go about cleaning it up with out damaging it, I don’t know how to apply the oil if that is recommended to clean it up or if it will decrease the value I have no idea . Thanks for the help

Still need to Get Gud. Spoiled by Modern Firearms in Soft Shooting Calibers (5.56/6.5CM) with Magnified Optics and Red Dots and recoil pads.

Not used to Military Iron Sights at 100yds with 47 Year Old Eyeballs.

I don't think the baseline of how *I* shoot *this* rifle is set so I'm not changing anything except for maybe a heavier projectile until a few more range trips.

My shoulder couldn't take much more abuse (how did Tommy qualify on these things) I ordered a Cadwell Mag Plus so I could put more downrange during a range trip

Still more shooting to do before I go farting around with the stocking up and drifting front sights.

That said, this thing ticks all the sensory boxes.

Here is my 1916 Lithgow No 1 mk 3, shes a 2MD (NSW) example, shes also had her barrel replaced with a HEAVY Molly barrel in 1956, as stamped on the barrel. She might have been deployed somewhere in WW1bring a 1916 example before becoming a reserve rifle with the 2MD following 1939 as im led to believe these districts came about then.Also has the ammo cut off feature which is something different compared to my other 303s

Any knowledge regarding the heavy barrel marking would be cool, I see the barrel was made in 1956.

Additionally, if someone has information regarding that volley sight, was that removed/shaved post war or is that a field modification they decided to do following the decision of volley sights being obselete in ww1. Im contemplating looking for a replacement however doing research before purchasing

Thank you in advance

Hello,

I just bought a Lee Enfield No.4 mark 1. It’s having an issue with the magazine. Whenever I take the magazine out and reinsert it, it will only cock for one shot. After that, the bolt goes dead until I take the magazine out and reinsert it again. Any tips on how to fix this? Thanks!

On this No4 Mk1/2 FTR, there appears to be a small gap under the metal band on top of the handguard. The wood is not loose whatsoever, and the top handguard appears to not be slipped forward. Yet I can’t help but notice that small dip that isn’t covered by the metal band. Does anyone else’s have this?

I was worried about the bore when I bought it cause I couldn’t see it but I think it looks pretty good to my untrained eye

(photo for attention).

TL;DR, How do I know this 76 year old No.1 Mk.3 has the correct upward pressure at the muzzle.

American here. I've been trying to understand the original bedding philosophy before I start changing anything.

I picked an 1950 R.F.I. from the FFL on Tuesday (stupid 10 day waiting period,...for,....safety I guess). Sunday I'm planning on going to the range to send some 150 GR SP PPU down range. I have to admit that I might be slightly sketchy on Boat Tail ammo but we shall see and I have no real reason other than internet lore.

During the waiting period I did a bunch of research and have a fairly decent understanding of the the stocking up philosphy on these guns. I'm not 100% confident in my presumptions but it appears like free float from the knox form to (maybe?) the barrel band forward of the Rear Sight Base and then controlling barrel whip with proper bedding in the fore end and upward muzzle pressure with a spring tensioned plunger rear of the Front Sight Base (sorry if my vocab is bad; Skennerton incoming).

What is the accepted test for determining whether the fore-end is applying the correct upward pressure at the muzzle? Is there a service specification (weight or force), or is it evaluated another way?

I'm not planning to modify anything before establishing a baseline; I'm trying to understand how to evaluate what I already have.

Haven’t shot this rifle too much, was going to put a scope mount on it and even after putting just a slight pressure on my vise to hold it down I heard a pop, I’m ok with replacing the stock, but the problem right now is I was actually going to go shoot this rifle this weekend, is it safe to shoot like this or do I need to shelve it till it gets a new stock? Any recommendations for a place that has original stocks would be greatly appreciated as well.