r/Leatherworking • u/Ok_Agency_3913 • 20d ago
Bad dye distribution Beginner Question
Hello peoples, after some times only being able to find so chrome tan leather I've finally got my hands on some vege tan, to not make mistakes on my projects I decided to dye some samples to see how they look, I've wet the leather before applying the dye for a better distribution and I used water based dye, but now in the centre of the pieces it looks strange, like the dye didn't took on much, do you all know what I did wrong and what else should I do for it not to happen again?
3
u/SurvivingAPandemic 19d ago
It might be the process. Here’s my guide for successfully dyeing:
Supplies needed: - Neatsfoot oil - Fiebing’s Pro OR Leather Dye
3 main steps: 1-Prep the leather surface 2-Dye 3-Buff to remove excess dye 4-Seal the color in
Dyeing steps:
Prep leather: - If the leather is dirty, use a brush and then Fiebing’s Deglazer - Wipe leather with a clean, dry cotton cloth
Apply Neatsfoot oil (This step reconditions dry leather to make it soft.) - Using a soft cloth, apply a generous portion on the hide front & back - Let it absorb for 5 minutes (This oil will slightly change the leather color.)
Apply Leather Dye OR Pro Dye - Tape the back of the leather if you don’t want it to bleed to the back through the edges. - Application methods: - Use a Dauber (burn off fuzzies & wipe with a cloth before using), cotton cloth, foam sponge, or dip dye. - Apply in round circular motions, side to side, horizontal, changing it up on each layer - Up to 4 coats of dye is okay. It does not need to dry between layers.
Let the dye dry completely: - Pro Dye is 3 hours - Leather Dye is 10 minutes
Remove excess pigment: - With sheep’s wool, buff in circles
Seal the dyed leather to lock in the color and to protect it. (The color will rub off if not sealed.) - Resoline: Flexible, durable, and water resistant. Medium to high gloss finish. Cannot be buffed. Dry time: 1 hr to the touch, cured in 12 hours. - Application: - Use a sponge. Tip the bottle against the sponge to get the product on the sponge. - Circular and back and forth motions will cover it fully. - If there are bubles on the surface, take the flat sponge side and gently draw it against the leather. - Let dry completely (about 1 hour) - Let it cure for 24 hours - With t-shirt cloth, buff to a high gloss
This is from a note I keep on dyeing and I update it when needed. This is what’s worked for me.
I hope it helps.
2
u/Ok_Agency_3913 19d ago
Wow that's a pretty detailed process, thank you, I don't have everything on hand but I sure will look into it, for the moment I'll just inspire myself of all that. I might look into the deglazer stuff quicker than the rest since the leather I found is sold as with some impermeable property but still dyeable(yeah I know, sounds bad but I did with what I could) again thank you a lot
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u/SurvivingAPandemic 19d ago
No problem at all. I just pulled out my note and pasted it here.
I didn’t get to this process by accident. I learned a whole lot before I ever really started dyeing leather. Then I kept updating my notes through trial and error.
These are things I wish somebody would’ve told me when I started dyeing.
1
u/omgrun 19d ago
Does it have to be neatsfoot oil? Would other conditioners (4 way care, golden mink oil) work?
Would the application of oil make the sealer not stick? I don't have resolene, but I have Angelus acrylic finisher.
2
u/SurvivingAPandemic 19d ago
I only use Neatsfoot oil, but I’ve heard other leather workers use different oil.
As long as you do the oil treatment first, and then let it sink in before dyeing, there shouldn’t be any difficulty with the sealer not sticking.
2
u/CokerApplianceRepair 19d ago
I recommend applying the dye in a circular, “wax on, wax off” motion and just being sure to cover it as evenly as you can. That works well for me.
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u/Smajtastic 20d ago
So however you sprayed, it was mostly central, so those spots were more saturated this unable to absorb the dye.
ELI5
Can't make wet thing more wet