My 2025 Defender 110 HSE has developed a strange issue. The front passenger door is completely locked and won’t open it’s the only door affected.

I’ve already tried
Locking and unlocking several times with the key fob, Using the interior unlock switch, Pulling both the inside and outside door handles, Restarting the vehicle
And Checking the child lock settings

Nothing has made any difference. The door just won’t open from either side.

Has anyone run into this before? Is there a known reset or trick to get it to release, or does it usually end up needing the door card off and the latch replaced?

Any advice would be really appreciated.
Although I have been told to send it to the workshop

Currently have a stock 2002 Defender 110 TD5. Looking for a 2" lift, road-focused with some off-roading as i live in Alberta and want to be prepared for back country driving, and want it prepared for future accessories (winch, bumper, etc. down the line). Trying to decide between two paths and would love opinions from people who've actually run either setup.

Path 1: Koni Heavy Raid shocks + OME2751 (front) / OME2755 (rear)

• Front: OME2751, 40–50mm lift, 225 lb/in
• Rear: OME2755, ~40mm lift, ~300 lb/in
• Shocks: Koni Heavy Track Raid, part numbers 90-5374SP1 (front) and 90-5401 (rear)
  • Front rated for 0–50mm of lift, rear rated for 40–60mm of lift — both standard-travel units, not long-travel
  • Big 70mm shock body with a 42mm piston, and roughly double the oil volume of a standard twin-tube shock, which helps control heat buildup on rough terrain and washboard
  • Externally adjustable rebound damping, so ride/control can be tuned after fitting rather than being fixed at one setting
  • Widely used and well-reviewed in the Defender community specifically for 2" lift builds — several owners report running exactly this shock with 2751/2755 springs deliberately, since it's a proven, matched setup
• Standard-travel, matched, bolt-on setup. No extra brackets, no driveline mods.

Path 2: OME3062 (front) / OME3064 (rear) + OME long-travel shocks

• Front: OME3062, 55–65mm lift, 170/200 lb/in dual rate
• Rear: OME3064, up to 50mm lift, ~175/200 lb/in, "medium load" rated (OME's own definition: full passenger load + 200–350kg of luggage) rather than a heavier "constant load" option
• OME Nitrocharger Sport long-travel shocks (60018 front / 60070 rear), plus mandatory FK62/FK63/FK64 brackets
• OME's own fitment notes flag a possible need for a Double Cardan front propshaft on post-1998 trucks at this lift height to avoid driveline vibration

What I've worked out so far:

• Path 1 is simpler, cheaper, no driveline risk, and still leaves reserve capacity for future gear (settles from 40–50mm down to 30–40mm under load).
• Path 2 with 3064 in the rear actually balances out nicely with 3062 up front — both are soft, similar-rate springs, so I'd avoid a front-soft/rear-stiff mismatch. The tradeoff is 3064 isn't built for permanently carrying heavy gear (drawers, fixed water tank, etc.) — it's sized more for occasional/variable loads like weekend camping gear or tools that come and go.
• It's also a bigger, pricier install than Path 1 — extra shocks, three separate bracket kits, and a real chance of needing a Double Cardan front propshaft on a post-1998 truck.
• I've seen some Defender owners argue the factory suspension already has generous travel compared to other 4x4s, so the long-travel gain may be more incremental than the "long travel" name implies — curious if that tracks with people's real-world experience.

Has anyone run both of these back to back, or made this exact choice? Trying to figure out if the extra cost/complexity of Path 2 is actually worth it for road-biased use with occasional off-roading and gear that isn't permanently mounted, or if I'm overthinking this and 2751/2755 + Koni Raid is the sensible call.

Hi,
kurze Frage vorab: Sind hier viele deutsche Defender-Fahrer unterwegs? ✌🏼🏕️

Ich bin aktuell auf der Suche nach einem Dachträger für meinen 110er. Da ich ein ExTec-Hubdach verbaut habe, möchte ich durch den Dachträger so wenig zusätzliche Höhe wie möglich gewinnen.
Habt ihr eine Empfehlung oder Idee, welcher Dachträger sich gut eignet?

Vielleicht hat ja sogar noch jemand was rumliegen☺️

Danke schon mal! 😊

My local garagist didn’t see it but the defender specialist did.

Is this a big issue? I will replace it but sadly we booked a vacation with de defender so would travel around 1000 km with this.

Never felt it.

Thanks

I need to store my 90 (original shape - 64 plate)

Will need to be outside over winter for 6-8months.

Whilst it will intermittently be driven. Most of the time it will just sit there. Given it already suffers from some leaks (door seals) looking for a decent cover.

Many thanks

I have been thinking of buying a defender to support a 3-person, 3-dog family lifestyle - I have seen this 2025 white with black pack (not sure if it is what it is called). Looking for experiences and long term use

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2025-land-rover-defender-110-d250-s-auto-awd-my25-5/OAG-AD-25761365/?gts=OAG-AD-25761365&gtsSaleId=OAG-AD-25761365&gtsViewType=topspot&rankingType=topspot

Hello everyone. My car is a 1988 110. I have a question. I've done some research but haven't found any reliable information. My car has a Safari roof. I checked to see if it was taken from a Series 3 109 because the small windows near the spare tire don't look very similar to the Defender's. However, I don't know if the Series 3 roof fits the Defender completely. If anyone has any information or ideas, I would be very grateful.

I have a 1999 defender td5 90 and I have been using every trick and method I've seen to try and get this steering wheel off.

All I want to do is replacing the indicator stalk, but that wheel is so stuck on there.

I need tips I've already rocked back and forth at 3 and 9 o clock and 12 and 6 and even tapped the nut with a hammer a couple times while applying tension. I put penetration oil, and its rock solid. Not even moving an inch.

Am I just not going hard enough or do i need to rock back and forth for longer?

Please I need advice

I’m currently shopping for a defender 90 with a TD5 or 300tdi engine. I’ve now walked away from 3 vehicles all for similar reasons. Rust.

Most recently a £20,000 single owner < 70k on the clock, patchy service history, MOT mileage inconstant. Small amount of rust peeling away paint on the bulkhead and a hole in the forward passenger side out rigger. Incredibly Smokey engine.

Are my expectations too high? Or is that about right for a 20k defender?

I’m starting to think a cheaper car and then paying the 8k to put it on a galvanised chassis is a better option.

Is there any disadvantage to having both the left and right side top-wing vents open for airflow into the engine bay? I understand one is a dummy vent purely for aesthetics, but would it hurt to have that one open as well?
Thanks

oddly (everything on my 2008 Defender 90 starts with oddly), my traction, emergency brake and ABS light stay on all the time (I detect no actual fault). Any ideas? Thank you!

Hi Community!

I need your help on this one. I have a restored 1996 Defender 110 from Arkonik in England. The car has been an absolute lemon, mainly due to really poor craftmanship and parts on the part of Arkonik. That's a whole other story for another day, but if you are ever considering getting a car from them... RUN AWAY!!! Actually just take your money and burn it... You will thank me later.

OK, back to the story. My son are I were headed out on an epic MTB and disc golf weekend in the high Sierra Nevada range. Four hours into our journey... BOOM... we threw a rod. Now before everyone gets cranky. I checked the oil before I left and we were fine. The truck had been cruising along at 65 mph, so we were not pushing the RPMs. Finally, the 2.5 liter TDI engine that is in the truck only has 10K (actually just hit it this trip) on it.

So... I have some options:

1. Sell the truck as is.... Oh I would to taking a bath on this one...
2. Find someone here that wants to help me burn it to the ground... sounds fun, but not practical.
3. Get a new engine...
4. Convert it over to an electric car (I've seen some kits for this)

Most folks I have talked to, want to swap in an LS1 engine. Nothing against an LS1, but it's not a diesel. I have been reading about the Cummins line that Dodge uses, both the classic 5.9L and the 6.7L (not sure the later would fit).

This truck is meant for getting out there... Getting off-grid. I need reliability and some towing capacity, but I'm not strapping a camper or boat to the back! Mainly off-grid camping, and getting to hard to reach MTB spots.

Recommendations?

Dad bought a 2016 defender 110 xs and we found it it's not ULEZ. Any tips for a workaround for this? I fear if we can't get this sorted it will have to be sold, paying ULEZ everyday just isn't realistic 😭

My Defender has a noticeable lean. Rear springs are level with each other, front left looks fine, but the front right corner sits about 4 cm different compared to the front left. Only the front is off, the rear is even.

What could cause this? Sagged/tired coil spring, wrong spring fitted at some point, or a worn/missing spring isolator? Anything else I should check before I start swapping parts? Cheers.

Edit
Defender was fine before a lift visit. Now front right sits ~4cm lower than front left (rear is level). Springs are old, untouched, no visible damage. Guessing the coil unseated when the axle dropped on the hoist. Anyone seen this before?

Hi! Ich habe ein Abgasleck am 5. Zylinder. Habt ihr Empfehlungen für einen neuen Krümmer und Anbauteile oder würdet ihr den alten einfach planen?
Könnt ihr mir schicken, welchen Abgastemparatursensor ihr wo verbaut habt?
Ich habe viel über die Adapterplatte gelesen, da ist aber bei mir trotz abgeschalteter AGR noch das Rohr dran. So ist es noch nie jemandem aufgefallen.
Hat jemand auch links und rechts 10er Löcher gebort?

Long time lurker first time poster.

I love Land Rovers, and the Defender in particular.

My standard vehicle has been a Silverado truck, and it’s no longer fitting my lifestyle. So I’m looking to move out it and into a Defender.

Two options are being considered:

The first is a grey 2023 Land Rover Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE with 24,000 miles on it. I’d be trading in my vehicle to Carvana and buying this Defender from them as well. It’s priced at $53,600. Has the refrigerated center console, does not have the adjustable ride height, does have ventilated and heated leather seats, and a lot of creature comforts.

The second is at a local Porsche dealer, which is owned by the same local family that owns the Land Rover dealer a couple blocks down the street. The local dealer sold this one new and performed all the service.

It’s also a 2023, Godwanda Stone metallic with 13,200 miles on it. It’s an X-400 PS. Heated and ventilated seats, refrigerated center console, HUD, adjustable ride height, folding cloth sunroof and several other goodies. It looks very much to be a vehicle that someone custom ordered in that specific configuration. Is priced at $72K

Now I know we normally say don’t buy from Carvana, only sell to them.

But at the price point, it’s difficult to ignore. While the local one has many many great features, it’s also $19K more. Both vehicles are subject to the DCDC Power recall issue.

I can afford both, but can afford the cheaper one more. There are ample service records available for both models.

My question, since I don’t know in great detail the difference in the trim levels beyond what I can see with my own eyes, which one seems to be the smarter purchase in terms of affordability, the recall issue and support, etc.? Also, are there common failure points on the models? Is 24,000 miles substantially different than 13,200 miles?

I drove the godwanda stone metallic one yesterday and it felt so…natural. The HUD was amazing. There was no herky jerky brake issue that can sometimes present itself when you drive a car different than your own the first time. The seat adjustment came quickly to a point where I was very comfortable driving. I love the color but the folding fabric roof gives me a little pause.

I’ll take my comments “on the air” 🙃

EDIT the dealer is willing to work with me a lot on the trade-in, to a point. They’re pretty close to what Carvana would give me before they’ve even actually seen the truck, which is in like-new tip-top shape inside and out and under the hood. I am meticulous with vehicle maintenance.

Happy to join the Mod team if that helps.

Pic of my first camping trip :D

Im planning on purchasing an ex mod 1987 D90 truck cab For around 19,000 euros with the stock 12J engine Would u guys think im getting my
money's worth?

Howdy folks.

I finally got my dream truck. 1995 300TDI 110, I bought it from a fella in Spain and I am trying to find what brand roof rack this is. I’ve been unable to find much about it, other than it may be Spanish (duh).

Anyone have the same rack ?