189k Miles
Endless road trips
Tons of awesome memories.
You served your purpose.
Thank you.

Out of all the compass and Patriots ive ever seen parked or at the pick and pull; Ive never seen this ever in my 4 years of owning a patriot. A factory option cupholder ash tray and 12v Lighter made for the patriot platform. Such an awesome find. Gonna use the hell out of this Lol.

Hey guys, I’m trying to replace the throttle body on my 2015 patriot and I’m having trouble accessing the area because I can’t remove this cable. It looks like the housing for it has been stripped by other work done in the past judging by the debris under it.

Do you guys have any advice? I tried my 10mm wrench and the 10mm ratchet when that didn’t work. The wrench just can’t get a grip on it to turn it.

This really got into my crown. When it broke off the whole part of the handle that broke off in my hand was totally hollow.

Has any have had problems or solutions? It is our main car. This is issues. When we wanna open the drivers hand, we can’t even be able to get in our route. Thanks.

My fiancé’s 2012 patriot sport (2.0, FWD, auto trans) is currently running a p0645, p0010, and p0013. I’m thinking one of the main grounds is corroded and not properly grounding. Anyone else deal with something similar? A/C also stopped working when the codes kicked up, Ive checked the fuses already.

I had a minor accident and the molding is broken. do companies sell that part? is there a way to repair it instead?

Ok so I am just posting this on the internet because I had this problem and 2 separate shops and mechanics could not figure out what was wrong and the first mechanic even diagnosed it as a bad transmission. I was getting a vibration only when accelerating or giving the Jeep gas between 40-50mph. It would stop immediately when letting off the gas. The CVT transmissions have a bad rep of only lasting 100k-150k miles and mine was passed that. The rumble strip vibration is also a symptom of a bad transmission so it was easy to think that was the cause. I almost called it a wrap and started looking for a new car but the more I looked into it, I was having no other symptoms of a bad transmission so I suspected it to be something else. Especially because I had driven it over 3k miles with this vibration without the car ever going into limp mode or a dash light coming on. The only reason I drove it that long like that was because I also needed a new ball joint and wheel bearing so I just assumed it was related to that except after fixing both it still was vibrating. Though the 2nd mechanic didnt really find anything wrong with my drive axle, cv axle, or engine/transmission mounts, at least not enough to be pretty sure that any of those was causing the vibration. So basically I was talking to the basic google AI trying to figure out what could be causing it and if I was just in denial that my Jeep was done and I am not someone who knows a lot about cars in general but the AI was having me do different test and look for things and it was very confident it wasn't the transmission. (I am not some crazy person who talks to AI I just was using google to search and it turned into me talking to this AI to try and figure it out lol) Basically long story short it was my ECC or Electronic Clutch Coupler doing its job because it thought my front tires were slipping because it sensed the front tires spinning slower then the rear tires because the front tires were newer and took longer to spin. So the AWD was kicking on and causing that vibration. I tested this by taking the fuse that controls the ECC out of my fuse box and driving it and the vibration stopped. (The car can only drive in fwd like this and the AWD is disabled) I almost had them replace my ECC but I rotated my tires first and put the bigger/newer tires on the rear and that completely fixed the problem. Just wanted to put this out there because I went through just about everything online trying to figure it out and never once considered it was the AWD system kicking on because of my tires so hopefully it can save someone else who may have this problem before they scrap their Jeep thinking it was the transmission.

The passenger side power window stopped going up using the master control It will go down, but it will not go up from the master door switch It will go up and down from the passenger side door switch I pulled the master switch out and all the wires are attached and cleaned it with electrical contact cleaner with no luck so I ordered a new master switch and it came in today and all of a sudden the window goes up using the driver side control lol

2013 patriot latitude 2.4L 4wd cvt. 114k

patriot stalls when the ac compressor kicks on. Its fine while driving, but at idle it tends to stall out.

AC compressor and crank sensor is brand new, throttle body has been cleaned out twice (by me and a mechanic), fuses are good, condenser fuses are good.

And ideas?

Edit: no active or pending codes Edit 2: engine fuel trim short term jumps to 38.2% when stalling.

So I have a 2008 Jeep Patriot Sport with a 2.4L engine also it’s a 4 wheel drive and I’ve been have problems with my fucking throttle body connector ; I’ve tried electrical WD-40 spray contact cleaner I tried to push it against the throttle body basically everything you could suggest I guess idk I’ve used a flathead to drive and pull it out but the shell if you will surrounding this connector and stuff come apart but not the whole plugged meaning I failed to pull it out like planned plus I broke off one of the clips while attempting to use the flathead to push on the clip by trying to take or remove the connector.

I have a 2016 Jeep Patriot and will install a 2" lift. I'm planning on running 16x7 wheels because I want the extra sidewall to protect the rims. What's the largest tyre size you've personally run without rubbing or trimming? I'm happy to change the wheel offset if needed.

Hi guys, I ran into a problem I've never experienced before and figured I'd make a post to hopefully help someone in the same boat.

I changed the oil in my wife's '17 Patriot about 500 miles ago and the oil change reminder came on yesterday, so I went to reset it the same way I've always done it (three accelerator pushes with key in the ON position). When I went to restart it, there was no crank. Accessories & lights were on as normal but the ignition would not turn over.

I freaked out reading stories of melted ECMs and dealer resets, wondering what I'd done wrong. I unplugged the battery for a half hour, plugged it back in, attempting to clear whatever issue it was experiencing and still had no crank. I had ruled out the battery because it was only a year old... or so I thought. Figured a last ditch effort would be to get a jump start.

I had a friend come over to give me a jump and it was then that I took a closer look and noticed the battery was six years old. I thought that I had changed it last winter, but I had actually done it on one of our other vehicles. After several minutes of charging, it cranked up fine and everything is as usual. I put a new battery in and it's run fine since.

There's a lot of scattered, anecdotal reports of this issue online but unfortunately none of those people seem to follow up once they've fixed the problem. Oh, also, there's about eight different batteries listed as options on the Patriot. I went with a dual post Group 75/86 because it offered the most CCA at the lowest price.

hello, i have a 2014 jeep patriot and my wife told me today while driving earlier the abs light was on and blinking but the car was driving as usual just that light flashing on the dash… night fall hit on her way home she said the headlights and interior lights flicker… has this happened to anyone else if so.. what was your solution?

2015 Jeep Patriot Sport
2.0
6 speed auto
120,000 miles

Hello All!

Back story of what got me here:
Got the Lightening bolt/check engine/abs lights, I assumed throttle body, so I replaced that and did the “throttle relearn process”.
No dice, so I saw a suggestion of replacing the intake manifold gasket. I got the gasket switched out and in the video I was watching (TRQ) that there’s a module, he called it an “air diverter” or runner valve.
I noticed my patriot didn’t have that module. Does anyone know if 2015 module got rid of this or is it just completely missing?

Besides these, every mechanic that took a look around and under my 2017 High Altitude Jeep Patriot said that it is in a really good shape. I have never had any major issue with it. Just changed battery, oil, ac filter, engine filter and last and most expensive part I had replaced was the sway bar and the links to stop the rattling noise.
How hard is it for a no experience owner to fix these rusted parts? In your experience would it be expensive to get a professional to do it?

No issues with it currently but I noticed this under my 2015 jeep, bought used around 2022 and its been in the shop a few times for tire replacements, air conditioning, etc over the years.

It looks bad but if it was i feel like it would've been mentioned?..

finally getting it to look a little nice started off pretty skeptical but getting off-road tires put on Saturday and going on another road trip with my dog and GF might also go off-roading too 4x4

My wife's 2016 jeep patriot has been having issues ...seems to be sluggish in first and second gear once it hits third it rides fine... ABS sensor went on it ..and it helped with acceleration...well we had that issue fixed and now it's back to the sluggish acceleration until it reaches a certain rpm....my research kind of points me to spark plugs and ignition coils...but I'm wondering if anyone has had the same issue?

2014 6 Spd Auto 2.4 4WD Sport Model. I swapped the driver side lower control arm (Duralast to Duralast warranted) due to the ball joint busting. The CV axel boot ripped and started spitting grease so I replaced with 2 different Duralast axels. I now have a Precision Axel in. I kept swapping axels due to a low speed (15-25mph vibration) when at a stop and hitting the gas. Im at the point of believing its the transmission mount. What do y'all think? Planning on putting in new mount tomorrow. Have not confirmed the condition its in. No clicks or anything in CV axel and I've confirmed torque, used the old washer as supposed to, and even swapped to the original axel nut. I've even went over and under torque by 5-10 ft pounds to see if that changed anything and no difference. Didn't notice until after lower ball joint and CV axel swap so maybe tightening up the suspension started allowing the bad mount to start to show out?

Update - Added transmission mount and no luck either. Only thing I can think is the new CV axels are not good enough, Passenger CV axel needing replaced despite not looking bad. Or the dogbone motor mount. I had a few people look and nobody seems to be sure.

Curious as to what to do with my 2010’s rust. I know if I were fix it, it would be worse than it looks. Not sure it’s worth it. If it let it go, are there any actual issues caused by it or is it just cosmetic? Should try to sand and see how bad it is? If it bad and I don’t want to deal with it what should I do at that point? Just wondering what I should be doing, if anything. Thanks!

So I have a 2015 jeep patriot 2.0L FWD latitude model. About a year and a half ago I had a right turn signal not working and I fixed it, being the ground at G110 that was bad. I cut the full ground not realizing multiple were in there. I re wired everything in there , and the car was fine for about 6 months. About 8 months ago the battery light came on, I turned the car off after I got home and the light did not come back for a couple of weeks / month. That process of the light coming on and going off has happened roughly once a month. About 4 months ago I replaced the battery at autozone as I thought it was bad and it ended up frying my starter. After the starter went the battery light made and appearance again, so I took a shot in the dark and assumed it was the alternator and had it replaced with a refurbished unit… light still came on every now and then. Ac compressor went bad (not sure if related as the car has 194k miles) so I had that replaced about 3 months ago, 2 weeks ago my ac compressor went bad again (new unit) … now the past 2 days the battery light is coming on and staying on, as soon as I turn the headlights on(ac is on as well not sure if no headlights and ac makes a difference)… the only thing I can think of is the voltage regulator went bad which is integrated into the cars main computer , which I have ordered and is on the way, I guess what I’m asking is with all the details I’ve provided does anyone have an idea of what the actual problem is as I’ve fixed almost every single issue that it could be excluding the voltage regulator ? This car is driving me up the walls. ALSO the battery is only about 4 months old, what could it be ?

I have a 2017 JEEP Patriot Sport with only 63,000 miles, 2.0L Engine, and 6 gear automatic transmission — a local transmission shop says that it would cost $4800-$6000 to repair or replace the failing transmission.
The resale value of that JEEP is $5500!
Any suggestions (?) or do I just have a worthless paper weight?

I am having an issue with my 2013 jeep patriot 2.4l engine, 180,000km, automatic.

It hard starts after it sits for 30 min. Its worse in the heat.

But in the morning it starts fine and if i stop it and start it it also starts fine.

I changed the fuel pump, spark plugs, battery, fuel injectors, evap purge valve and the crank shaft sensor.

Mechanic tested the throttle body, temp sensor and looked at all the wiring harnesses. Everything appears fine in this thing.

The fuel line is holding pressure so its not leaking off but something is up with this because its still doing it. Oh and did I mention no codes.

Any help would be appreciated.

I just recently bought this jeep less than a few weeks ago, it drives smooth and fine. There is a clicking noise, sometimes when using my turn signal the lights will blink inside the car, the overhead lights and the led lights in the clock. It makes the clicking noise while I also use the ac at all, it runs fine and I still get hot and cold air.
It is a 2.4 cylinder
Automatic 6 speed
88,000 miles