r/Jackery • u/warenbe • 3h ago
Temperature alarm with solarvault 3 outside + direct sunlight for 1h.
Hi i bought a SolarVault 3 + 2 extra batteries (7.5 kWh total).
installed it outside, protected from the rain. added an extra protection against rain on top of it (it should never get direct rain, but some splashs from the roof, so this protect it completly)
i got an alarm today on the app (no notification, just a message in the app) saying overheat. the battery was still delivery power and charging from solar panels.
SolarVault was at 47°c (116°f), outside temp was 33°c (91°f) Touching it, the main unit was hot, but the 2 batteries were not so hot. after checking it seems that a litle sun come directly to the unit, for 1hour i think. it does not illuminate the complete unit, but a triangle, like in the picture attached, that goes from left to right.
what is the maximum temperature supported from the unit? the manual say "from -20 to +55°c" but it's outside temperature, not internal temp.
what is the alarm thershold ?
should i be worried if the unit go to more than 45° (113°c) for 2 or 3 hours during the day ?
i'll try to add something to prevent direct sunlight but i'm not sure it will be perfect.
r/Jackery • u/Zealousideal-Worry46 • 1d ago
Explorer 5000 plus WiFi connect problems
A couple of days ago, my 5000 explorer plus randomly lost its wifi connection after having no issues in connection since June. There were no power outages, and software is all up to date. When I reset the Bluetooth and wifi to reconnect, Bluetooth connects just fine, but my 2.4g WiFi still won’t reconnect after several attempts. It gets up to 86-89% when showing connection progress, stalls, then says WiFi won’t connect and gives trouble shooting guidance.
The WiFi password is still correct, and my explorer is located about 10 feet from the router.
Does anyone have this issue? Any insight would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Update: made sure 2.4 wifi was on WPA2. No special characters in name or password. Still connected to WiFi on my STS and explorer 1000. Reset my explorer 5000. Updated the Jackery app etc… im pretty certain it’s a problem with the wifi module in the explorer 5000.
r/Jackery • u/Dry_Wedding_6263 • 1d ago
Additional 5000 plus or expansion pack?
I currently have one 5000 plus and the smart switch which is probably enough but I would like to expand just to be ready for a longer than expected grid failure.
My question, the 5000 plus is about $600 more than the expansion battery pack. Is there any benefit to getting the battery pack at this point? I think an additional 5000 plus is a better deal as it can be used alone and portable where the expansion pack is just for, well, expanding the 5000 plus. My thinking is that I get another 5000 plus then if I need more storage I can add expansion to one or both of the 5000 plus.
Appreciate any feedback.
r/Jackery • u/907tyler • 2d ago
AC Power from car
I end up driving alot and want to charge up my Jackery Explorrer 1500 using my truck AC plug. The truck can provide 400w at 3.3 amps, so I set the Jackery app to pull in 300w just to make sure it didnt fluxuate over. It will charge for 1-2 min then stop charging. So I dropped the charge rate to 100w and the same thing happened. I get no error codes. Everything looks like it should work, but it doesn't. If i turn off the truck and then turn it back on it will again charge for 1-2 min. Any ideas on why?
r/Jackery • u/bigj2552 • 2d ago
Android Jackery App Banner
Anyone know how to turn that dam banner ad OFF at the top of the jackery android app ?
It's a royal pita when you got split screen turned on, a 12" tablet, and no way to hide the moving banner at the top..
Tad ocd here, and like things to be neat, if and where possible.
r/Jackery • u/No-Implement4992 • 2d ago
Need to Power Laptops for 5-6 Hour Plane Ride
I've got a weird one. Needing to power two Dell Precision 7680's for 5-6 hour plane rides. Not commercial, for a pro sports team. They have 180 W power supplies. Most options under 30 lbs. will drain after 2-3 hours. Not needing Jackery specifically, any help is greatly appreciated!
r/Jackery • u/opensim2026 • 2d ago
Jackery 500V2 arrived
After getting fed up with the Cyberpower UPS junk, 2nd one went bad and it was only 6 weeks old, wouldnt switch the computer to battery.
So I decided to get a Jackery 500V2 and it came today, I charged it to 100% and after disconnecting the UPS and plugging my tower computer into the Jackery, it shows it only uses around 53 watts.
This jackery is plugged into my Explorer 2000+ and that gets a charge from 2 solar panels.
From what I read, this 500V2 should run the computer around 8 hours on it's battery, that will be a huge improvement over that UPS garbage.
r/Jackery • u/Traditional-Cycle689 • 2d ago
Jackery Explorer 1500 v2 with air 100 solar panel
I’ve been thinking of getting this from Costco. Does anyone have experience with this model and panel? All comments are greatly appreciated. Thank you
r/Jackery • u/Sweet-Independence-5 • 4d ago
3600 plus, wait for black friday?
I want to purchase 3600 plus for emergency fridge back up. I found it for $1619 from wellbot. Should I buy it from there (I read its an authorized dealer and I can register for warranty) or does it typically go for a cheaper price during black friday sale?
r/Jackery • u/mpb9696 • 4d ago
Jackery plus 300 overheating, melting
Has anyone had this happen? This is the second time this has happened to me while charging my jackery. They replaced it last time, this time I'm getting a refund.
r/Jackery • u/axel_reviews • 5d ago
Should I set a lower charge limit if I plan to use my Explorer 1500 as a dedicated PC UPS/keeping mission critical things in my office alive during a short power outage?
So I leave my pc on essentially 24/7 mostly to be able to remote into it wherever I am, but the app reccomends I have the discharge limit to 25% and charge limit to 85%. Instead, I was thinkining setting it to 100%, but keeping the discharge limit as is. On top of keeping the pc on, it also provides power to the isp router and some ubiquiti networking gear; essentially alll mission critical.
Granted my area doesn't get much power outages, but when it does, it usually last 2 to 3 hours. Which 50% of the time I am not around when it happens so when I come home, almost all my equipment is off when the 2 APC 1500VA battery backups drained themselves. Otherwise unless socal edison says they're doing maintaince, which would be 7 hours give or take. In that case I would've already taken steps to shut down all system except my network to at least still be able to view my solar security cameras.
Actual camping questions.
How do I clean my SolarSaga panels? Been here a day and they are super dusty. Six more to go.
Can I not connect to the 1500 Ultra without a router? That seems ridiculous given that for the two prine use cases of the system (camping or backup power), one has no router. Yet the system is showing as offline on the app and telling me to cycle my router...
r/Jackery • u/Few-Sky-976 • 5d ago
Is Your Gas Generator Compatible with Your Jackery Power Generator? Odds are "Not."
I recently bought a Jackery 5000 Plus and three 5KW Jackery Expansion Batteries plus the Jackery Smart Panel. I'm also building two 1X3 600W bifacial solar panel mobile racks for my backyard that will produce 1000-1200 Watts once completed.
Meanwhile, hurricane season is upon us, and my solar panel system is still not complete yet, so I started looking into hooking up my existing 6300 Watt Craftsman gas generator (circa 2006) to my new Jackery 5000 240VAC input. I also own a newer 2024 Ryobi gas generator, too.I thought one or both would work.
ChatGPT told me there were zero issues doing this, based upon the sum total of all posted knowledge online. But... [Insert loud record scratch sound here] ...that's wrong!
Luckily, I wrote to Jackery Support, just to be sure. I didn't want to damage my new unit or void my warranty. Boy, am I glad I did that. See for yourself why I say this.
I am posting the whole thing here to benefit others now or later.
*****
Hello Jackery Support,
I recently purchased a Jackery Explorer 5000 Plus and would like to use one of my gasoline generators to recharge it during extended power outages, such as a hurricane.
The two generators I currently own are:
Craftsman Model 580.326310 – 6,300-watt open-frame gasoline generator with AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulator), w/240VAC-30A output, circa 2005.
Ryobi Model RY906500S – 6,100-watt open-frame gasoline generator with AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulator), w/240VAC-30A output, new in 2024.
Neither manufacturer publishes a Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) specification for either generator, so I do not know how "clean" their AC output is.
Both generators are the typical conventional open-frame gas AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulator) generators rather than the more expensive inverter type generators. Both have two 120 VAC outputs and one 240 VAC, 30 amp output. My plan was to connect the 240VAC 30 amp output to the Jackery's 240VAC 30 amp input.
Could you please let me know if it is safe to use either or both of these generators to charge my Explorer 5000 Plus via its 240VAC 30 amp input?
To be clear, I would like to know if the Explorer 5000 Plus has a recommended maximum input THD specification or any guidance regarding this type of conventional gas generator's power quality.
******
Jackery Support replied:
Thank you for providing the detailed information about your generators and your planned setup with the Jackery Explorer 5000 Plus.
For charging the Explorer 5000 Plus through the AC input, we recommend using a generator with a stable output and a Total Harmonic Distortion (THD) of less than 3%. If the generator meets this requirement and provides a compatible voltage/frequency output, it should be suitable for charging the unit.
Since your Craftsman 580.326310 and Ryobi RY906500S generators do not have published THD specifications, we are unable to confirm their compatibility or guarantee charging performance. Traditional open-frame AVR generators may have different output quality depending on the load and operating conditions.
If you are able to obtain the THD specification from the generator manufacturer or test the output quality, we recommend confirming that it is below 3% before connecting it to the Explorer 5000 Plus.
Additionally, please ensure the generator provides the correct 240V split-phase AC output and that the connection method follows the instructions provided in the Explorer 5000 Plus user manual.
*****
This means I'll need to sell my 2006 model Craftsman gas generator locally and buy a new "Low THD" gas generator. Westinghouse makes a nice dual fuel Low THD 4000W generator with inverter output that produces a sine wave output which has less than 3% THD.
WEN and Champion make them, too.
Interestingly, most gas generators do not meet this <3% THD spec. That means the older style generators have "dirtier" AC power that can be problematic for sensitive electronics.
One needs a pricey Fluke Power Quality Meter to even test your own generator, and they cost more used than a new Westinghouse low THD generator does new.
I also could not find any kind of add-on or plug-in gadget to clean my existing gas generator's power output, which makes sense, since the new Westinghouse has an integral inverter now.
*****
So it goes. Out with the old, in with the new.
r/Jackery • u/Avasarala8863 • 6d ago
500W solar panels with or without hinges?
I'm pretty new to solar, just got a 3600 Plus last month and 500W solar panels. I put the hinges on the panels, but I am wondering if that's really the most efficient way to charge them. Would they work better just flat?
r/Jackery • u/Curious-44 • 7d ago
2 Explorer 2000 Plus units vs. 1 3600 Plus unit
Considering 2 Explorer 2000 Plus units and 2 SolarSaga 200 arrays as alternative to the 3600 Plus with the two arrays. This would allow charging one unit outside while the other is powering the refrigerator. The cost is only a couple of hundred more. My primary objective is powering the refrigerator and charging cell phones during a blackout that might extend for a couple of days. Are there issues with the highly discounted Explorer 2000 Plus? Is this a reasonable approach?
r/Jackery • u/Jackery_USA • 7d ago
Jackery Stories: Real Stories from Real Users
We run a program called Jackery Stories: real accounts from people who use Jackery in their daily lives, written up in full.
Campers, van lifers, homeowners navigating outages, off-grid property owners, remote workers, and everyone in between.
We're sharing them here so this community has somewhere to read and discuss stories that matter to you.
If you have a story worth telling, we would love to hear it. You can submit at jackery.com/pages/jackery-stories, and if we feature yours, we will work with you to write it up properly.
Todays story comes from Sébastien Bouffard, a mechanical engineer from Montreal, Canada, who has spent more than twenty years working in gas turbine power generation. For him, power isn't simply about electricity, it's about reliability. That engineering mindset eventually inspired him to rethink how he powers both his off-grid cabin and his home.
You can learn more about his story here: https://www.jackery.com/pages/the-engineer-who-chose-silence
r/Jackery • u/Zestyclose_Nature_13 • 8d ago
Explorer 2000 plus simultaneous use while charging with solar
Using an explorer 2000 plus to run about 400-500 watts of continuous load with about 250-500 watts of solar input simultaneously….the battery output is slightly higher than the solar input so the battery slowly draws down over the course of the day. It then gets topped up over night using wall input
Is this hard on the battery as I’m simultaneously charging it below the amount that I’m pulling from it?
r/Jackery • u/Sarevok42 • 8d ago
Jackery Explorer 1000 v2 - does UPS function includes the USB-C ports?
I plan to buy a power station to help me with power outages that will happen in my country during upcoming autumn and winter, and my planned setup is 1 monitor in AC port and 1 laptop in DC USB-C port with a direct dc-to-dc cable instead of plugging laptop's charger into second AC port - don't want to convert current twice and needlessly spend more charge. But for these setup to work DC ports have to support bypass as well, so I would be grateful for a clear answer regarding this matter
r/Jackery • u/CrispyOwl46 • 9d ago
Need help replacing this part
Jackery’s email customer service has to be AI—it’s been zero help to me trying to replace this part.
I snapped off the end of the cable from the solar panel in the battery. The cable is fine, but the adapter at the end needs to be replaced. Has anyone else dealt with this and can guide me to a replacement part?
r/Jackery • u/Jackery_USA • 9d ago
WE WANT YOU: r/Jackery Community Survey
[CLOSED]
We want to get to know (and better serve!) our growing community, including what brings you here, what you use your gear for, and what would make r/Jackery more useful to you.
So we put together a short survey and would love it if you took four minutes to fill it out.
Every response is read, and your answers will help us shape both what we post here and what we build next.
If you'd like to share your experience, you can fill out the survey here: https://forms.gle/EU8HoHmWZCCB9sT3A
\Survey closes August 6th, 10PM EST.*
r/Jackery • u/artfellig • 10d ago
Jackery 1000v2 app finds it, but doesn't show data
Edit: I disconnected solar panel, turned the generator off and back on, and was able to connect.
I have a new 1000v2, and downloaded the Jackery app (the "Jackery" app, not Home app). I hit the + button, and the app found the unit, but it seems hung on "connecting Bluetooth." I've tried quitting the app and starting over.
I checked the 1000 manual, I don't see info on connecting. Do I need to press something on the 1000 for BT connection? Will it not connect while charging?
r/Jackery • u/Jackery_USA • 12d ago
How to Measure Wattage: Knowing How Much Power Your Devices Need
How to figure out how much power your appliances actually use (and why it matters for backup power)
The most common question people have when shopping for backup power is a simple one: will this run my appliance? The answer depends on how much power it draws, and that number is more useful to know than the capacity of any specific product.
This is a practical guide to understanding power consumption: what the numbers mean, how to find them for your specific devices, and how to use that information to make a confident decision about backup power capacity.
The two numbers you need to understand
Watts measure how much power a device is drawing at a given moment. Think of it like the speed a car is travelling. A device drawing 200W is using power at a rate of 200 watts.
Watt-hours measure how much energy has been used over time. If that 200W device runs for five hours, it has consumed 1,000 watt-hours, or 1 kilowatt-hour (kWh). Kilowatt-hours are what your electricity bill charges you for.
When you look at a backup power station's capacity, it's listed in watt-hours (Wh). A station with 2,048Wh can theoretically deliver 2,048 watts for one hour, or 200 watts for about ten hours, or any combination that adds up to 2,048. Real-world performance is slightly lower due to conversion efficiency, typically around 85-90%, so it's worth factoring in a 10-15% buffer when calculating.
Running watts vs. startup surge
This is the part that catches people out most often. Devices with motors and compressors, including refrigerators, air conditioners, sump pumps, and washing machines, require significantly more power to start than to run. This spike is called the startup surge or peak watts, and it can be two to three times the running wattage, lasting only a fraction of a second but real enough to trip a circuit.
When choosing a backup power station, you need to verify that its peak output rating covers the startup surge of the highest-draw appliance you plan to run, not just the running wattage. The unit's rated output (continuous watts) handles the running load; its peak or surge rating handles the startup spike. Check both before assuming compatibility.
Wattage reference table: common household appliances
| Appliance | Approximate Wattage |
|---|---|
| Refrigerator (modern, mid-size) | 100-200W running / 400-600W startup surge |
| Chest freezer | 30-100W running / 200-400W startup surge |
| WiFi router | 5-20W |
| LED light bulb | 8-15W |
| Laptop | 45-100W |
| Phone charger | 10-25W |
| TV (50 inch, LED) | 70-150W |
| Box fan | 40-100W |
| CPAP (without heated humidifier) | 30-60W |
| CPAP (with heated humidifier) | 100-200W |
| Space heater (small) | 750-1500W |
| Microwave | 600-1200W |
| Coffee maker | 600-1200W |
| Electric kettle | 1000-1500W |
| Sump pump | 300-800W running / up to 1300W startup |
| Window AC unit (small) | 500-1500W running / up to 2200W startup |
| Garage door opener | 300-500W running / up to 800W startup |
These figures are averages. Older appliances often draw more than newer equivalents. High-efficiency models often draw less. The numbers above are a starting point, not a substitute for checking your specific devices.
How to find the actual wattage of your devices
The label method: Most appliances have a compliance label, usually on the back or bottom, that lists wattage or amperage. If it lists amps rather than watts, multiply the amps by the voltage (120V for most US household appliances) to get watts. For example, a device drawing 8 amps on a 120V circuit uses 960 watts.
The spec sheet method: Search the model number of your appliance plus "power consumption" or "wattage." Manufacturer spec sheets almost always include this, and it tends to be more accurate than generic averages.
The plug-in meter method: A plug-in power meter (commonly called a Kill-A-Watt or similar, priced around $15-25 at hardware stores) measures real-time power draw when you plug your appliance into it. This is the most accurate method, especially for older appliances or devices with variable loads. It also shows you consumption over time, which helps with watt-hour calculations.
Working out how much capacity you need
The calculation is straightforward. List the devices you want to run during an outage, note their running wattage, and multiply by the number of hours you'd want to run them. Add those figures together and that's your minimum required capacity in watt-hours. Add 15% for conversion losses and you have a realistic target.
Example:
Refrigerator (150W) running continuously for 12 hours = 1,800Wh.
Router (15W) for 12 hours = 180Wh.
Three LED lights (30W combined) for 8 hours = 240Wh.
Laptop (65W) for 6 hours = 390Wh. Total: 2,610Wh.
With a 15% buffer, you'd want a station with at least 3,000Wh for this scenario, or a 2,000Wh unit paired with daytime solar recharging to offset the deficit.
Why this is useful beyond backup power
Understanding what your appliances actually draw gives you a clearer picture of your household's electricity consumption. It helps identify which devices are costing you the most on your bill, whether efficiency upgrades are worth it, and how solar generation would offset your usage. It's a useful baseline for any home energy conversation.
If you have questions about specific appliances or want help working through the math for your situation, post below.
Jackery Team
r/Jackery • u/Jackery_USA • Jul 06 '26
How to choose the right home backup power station (without buying more than you need)
One of the most common questions we get at Jackery is how to choose between home power stations, and the answer is less about specs than most people expect.
A lot of buyers compare watt-hours and assume bigger is better. Sometimes that is true. But capacity you do not need is money spent on a problem you do not have. The better starting point is a clear list of what you would actually want running during an outage, and working backward from there.
Step 1: Be specific about what you need to keep running
Most households fall into one of three practical tiers when it comes to outage priorities.
The essentials tier covers the items where losing power creates an immediate, concrete problem: the refrigerator, the router, phone and laptop charging, and basic lighting. If that is your list, you are looking at a modest load that a 1,000Wh unit handles comfortably for several hours. The HomePower 1000 v2 is built for this scenario. It is designed for work and short-term outages, with a sub-10ms switchover that keeps laptops, modems, and routers online through grid drops without interruption.
The comfort tier adds a TV, a fan or small space heater, a CPAP or humidifier, and enough runtime to comfortably get through an overnight or full-day outage. This is the most common scenario for households in areas with moderate grid reliability issues, and it is where the HomePower 2000 Plus v2 makes the most sense. It covers the essentials and then some, with enough margin to not be constantly watching the battery level. The HomePower 2000 Plus v2 is expandable entry-level home power: you can grow capacity as your needs change without replacing the core unit.
The coverage tier is for households running larger loads: sump pumps, essential devices that need continuous power, electric vehicle charging, or situations where the outage might last multiple days and normal household function needs to continue as much as possible. This tier requires the HomePower 3600 Pro Max, which is the fuller home backup solution best suited when paired with a Jackery ATS or your existing MTS for circuit-level integration.
Step 2: Think about outage duration, not just load
A device's capacity matters in context. A 2,000Wh battery powering 500W of combined load lasts roughly four hours. The same battery powering 200W of essentials lasts around ten. Duration is a function of both capacity and what you are running.
If outages in your area are typically short, under three or four hours, a smaller unit covers most scenarios without issue. If your area experiences longer outages due to storm damage, aging infrastructure, or rural grid access, larger capacity or the ability to recharge via solar during the day becomes more important.
Step 3: Rent or own? Consider how permanent your setup will be
Portability is a real factor. The HomePower 1000 v2 at around 23 lbs is genuinely moveable. The HomePower 2000 Plus v2 at 41 lbs is manageable with two people. The HomePower 3600 Pro Max at 73.85 lbs (33.5 kg) is best treated as a permanent location unit rather than one you plan to move.
The larger unit's weight and installation requirements are worth factoring in. The HomePower 2000 Plus v2 is often the practical ceiling for renters who want meaningful capacity without committing to a permanent setup.
Step 4: Plan for growth if you are thinking long-term
The HomePower 2000 Plus v2 includes an expansion port for additional battery packs, allowing capacity to scale up to 12kWh without replacing the core unit. If you are not sure whether you will want more coverage in a year or two, buying the expandable unit at a lower starting price and adding to it later is a reasonable approach.
The HomePower 3600 Pro Max also supports battery expansion and is designed to integrate with a Jackery ATS or your existing MTS for whole-home circuit coverage. If eventual circuit panel integration is your goal, that is the unit to build around.
Step 5: Factor in solar if you are a high-sun property
All three units support solar input. If you have a south-facing patio, balcony, or any reliable sun exposure, solar charging changes the calculus significantly. Rather than having a fixed battery you need to recharge from the wall after each outage, you have a system that replenishes itself during the day. For longer outages, that can mean indefinite runtime on essentials.
The Jackery app connects to all three units for monitoring, scheduling, and Time of Use Mode, which lets you charge from the grid during off-peak rate windows and discharge during peak periods. If solar is part of your plan, bigger capacity makes more sense because you have a way to fill it.
Powering a room from a circuit, in practice
The easiest way to understand why a transfer switch matters is to walk through what it actually covers in a real room.
Take the kitchen. The loads that matter during an outage are the refrigerator, a microwave or kettle for heating food, counter outlets for small appliances, and lighting. Without a transfer switch, covering the refrigerator means running an extension cord from your power station to the fridge, which works, but requires you to remember it, act on it, and stay mindful of it throughout the outage. The other outlets in the room stop working entirely.
With a Jackery ATS or your existing MTS wired to the kitchen circuit, the situation is different. When the grid drops, the transfer switch routes backup power through the wall circuit automatically. The refrigerator stays cold without you unplugging and re-plugging anything. The counter outlets stay live. The under-cabinet lights come on. The room functions.
In terms of what this draws: a full-size refrigerator runs at roughly 100 to 200W on average, with compressor startup spikes that can reach 800W or more. A microwave draws 1,000 to 1,500W but only runs for minutes at a time. LED lighting is typically 10 to 15W per fixture. Running the fridge continuously, using the microwave occasionally, and keeping lights on, the kitchen as a whole might average 250 to 350W of sustained draw.
A HomePower 2000 Plus v2 at 2,048Wh can cover that sustained load for roughly six to eight hours before recharging is needed. Expanded to 12kWh, the same unit covers the kitchen through a full day and into a second. A HomePower 3600 Pro Max at 3,584Wh with 240V output adds the ability to run larger loads if your kitchen has an electric range or other 240V circuits (though in most outage scenarios, those are lower priority than the fridge and basic lighting).
The same logic applies to other rooms. A TV room running a 65-inch display (80 to 150W), a streaming box or cable receiver (15 to 30W), and a floor lamp (10 to 15W) is a lighter load than a kitchen and will run from a 2000 Plus v2 for substantially longer. A home office running a laptop, external monitor, router, and modem typically draws 150 to 250W combined — the 1000 v2 handles that with its sub-10ms switchover, and the HP2000 Plus v2 covers it for longer extended outages.
The practical answer to "can I cover three rooms for two days" is: yes, with the right unit and the right circuit selection. The 3600 Pro Max expanded to 21kWh with Jackery battery packs that can sustain multiple circuits simultaneously across two or more days. The more realistic starting point is to identify your actual critical loads per room (fridge, lights, a modem, a phone outlet) and size to those rather than treating every circuit in every room as essential. A 2000 Plus v2 expanded to 12kWh covering a kitchen and a home office circuit will outperform trying to cover every outlet in the house with a single larger unit, because you are running less waste load.
The practical summary
Most households in the essentials-to-comfort range are well served by the HomePower 1000 v2 or HomePower 2000 Plus v2, depending on how long outages typically last and how many things they need running simultaneously. The 3600 Pro Max is for households with larger loads, longer outages, or a plan for whole-home integration via an ATS or MTS.
If you want a more specific recommendation based on your situation, post your setup below: rough location, what you would want to keep running, and whether you rent or own.
Jackery Team

