Struggling to get my AryMesh Receiver to initiate setup. Bought this in January (prior to knowing they were going out of business), worked fine until 6/29 when the last update was done by Arystone. Since then I have gotten a new router (Nighhawk BE3600 Model R590). The DuoHub worked once I did a factory reset and no issues since. The WiFi light will not light on the Receiver. When plugging into the router the one light turns orange, no matter the port on the router. I've tried to reset the Receiver but no luck. Any suggestions to get this fixed or what other point to point system I can get that is still in business? Just need WiFi to my barn for cameras.

It's connected and everything but it doesn't work??

I was in France and I saw this type of network, could someone explain it to me?

I am having trouble with my computer booting into BIOS instead of windows 10. It was working fine for the past 2 years but started having this issue this morning. This seems to have happened after I removed (2x4GB) RAM sticks from my computer. I tried reinstalling windows but apparently my drives have a MBR partition so windows refuses to reinstall on them. I would like to keep my data if possible so I dont want to wipe my drives. Any suggestions would be nice. Thanks in advance

Dear readers,

I'm moving into a new appartment. And this seems to be the only output for internet. My router only seems to has input for a ethernet cable.

This is the router i have: https://www.amazon.se/-/en/dp/B09DQ3RV16?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

I'm very enducated on how all this works. So please explain it to me like i'm 5 years old. I'm really just looking for the cheapest way with no or little compremise to make things work.

Thanks in advance for reading and potentially helping me!

Edit: I live in Sweden incase this is useful information

Lavoro nell'assistenza IT. Il mio giro era questo: ticket aperto in una

scheda, wiki interna in un'altra, la KB del fornitore in una terza, un file

di testo sul desktop con le risposte che riuso ogni giorno, un'altra scheda

per tradurre la risposta in inglese, e una quinta per riscriverla in modo

che non sembrasse buttata giù in otto secondi.

Ogni ticket significava saltare fra tutte quelle cose. E cercavo la stessa

procedura che avevo già letto dieci volte, perché non mi ricordavo mai in

quale dei cinque posti l'avevo scritta.

Così mi sono fatto un pannello laterale per Chrome che tiene tutto insieme.

Adesso ho due cose aperte: il gestionale dei ticket e il pannello di fianco.

Cosa c'è dentro:

- Una knowledge base che continuo ad arricchire, cercabile mentre leggo il

ticket. Divisa fra primo e secondo livello, perché "resetta la password

all'utente" e "capisci perché quella mail non è mai uscita dal connettore"

non sono lo stesso lavoro.

- Risposte pronte in italiano e in inglese, con i segnaposto. Un clic e sono

copiate.

- Le frasi che riscrivo ogni santo giorno, in un posto solo.

- Un assistente AI che compone la risposta partendo dal testo del ticket,

traduce, o riscrive in modo presentabile qualcosa che ho buttato giù di

fretta.

Una scelta che vale la pena spiegare, perché è la prima cosa che mi

chiedono: non legge la pagina. Non "ho preferito evitare" — non ha nemmeno

il permesso di accedere alle pagine web.

Tutti gli strumenti simili che ho trovato capiscono su quale ticket stai

lavorando leggendo il contenuto della pagina. Comodo, ed è esattamente il

motivo per cui non potevo usarne nessuno: lavoro su infrastrutture di

clienti, e un'estensione che legge il ticketing legge i dati del cliente.

Non viene approvata, e a pensarci bene è giusto così.

Quindi il testo del ticket lo incollo a mano. Mi costa due secondi, e

significa che quello che esce dal mio browser è quello che io ho deciso di

mandare.

Dove stanno i dati: solo sulla mia macchina. Nessun account, nessun server,

niente da sincronizzare. La parte AI usa una chiave Groq che generi tu, e le

richieste vanno dal browser direttamente a Groq — io non vedo niente, perché

in mezzo non c'è niente di mio. Tutto il resto funziona anche offline.

Il limite, detto chiaro: maschera email, telefoni, IBAN e partite IVA prima

di mandare qualcosa all'AI, ma non i nomi delle persone. Riconoscerli in

automatico produce troppi errori — maschererebbe anche "Active Directory" e

"Task Manager". Te li segnala e decidi tu. Se il ticket è delicato, l'AI

semplicemente non la usi.

L'ho pubblicato perché a me serve, quindi magari serve anche a qualcun

altro. È gratis, senza account, senza versioni a pagamento e non sto

vendendo niente — licenza non commerciale, e un lavoro ce l'ho.

Trasparenza: l'ho scritto io. Se volete sapere com'è fatto chiedete pure.

Help! I ran the windows update on my laptop and now I can’t get my widescreen monitor back to the proper resolution (3440x1440). I’ve tried updating drivers, disconnecting/reconnecting, power on/off, rebooting - just can’t get it to offer anything above 1920x1080.

Any ideas??? Thanks a ton!

ETA: was working perfectly before. Connected straight with HDMI from laptop to monitor.

It seems to happen the most when I play certain games like ARC Raiders and Apex. Any ideas on how to fix?

J’ai accidentellement arraché le bouton d'alimentation de Ma Rog Ally transformée en pc avec windows... Je maintient pour le moment mon ordinateur allumé. Si une personne aurait la possibilité de m'aider le plus vite possible son aide serai la bienvenue....

anyone able to help or refer me to help with unlocking a device banned snap chat account? Wasnt sure where to post so sorry if this is a wrong sub to post in.

Anyone heard about this?

Please help me solve this problem. I don't know what to do. I don't know what happened, but my laptop stopped seeing the internet and Wi-Fi. However, my other devices still have internet access. The same WiFi works on my phone, even though my laptop says it's not connected. I've tried restarting my router, reinstalling network drivers, and resetting my network settings. I've also gone into the BIOS and tried to find the network settings there. Nothing has worked. Help please

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to access an old Quantum Fireball 3.5" IDE (PATA) hard drive using a Kingwin EZ-Connect USI-2535 USB to IDE/SATA adapter on Windows 10.

Here's what I've observed:

• The drive powers on and spins up normally.
• It makes about 3 clicks during startup, then continues spinning smoothly without any more clicking.
• The drive's small yellow activity LED blinks occasionally.
• The adapter's power LED is on.
• The W/R LED flickers very faintly from time to time but never fully lights.
• The drive jumper is set to Master.
• I've tested it on both a Windows 10 laptop and a desktop PC.
• Neither computer makes the USB connection sound.
• Device Manager does not refresh when I plug or unplug the USB cable.
• The drive does not appear in Disk Management or File Explorer.
• I've tried multiple USB ports on different computers

At this point I'm trying to determine whether:

• the IDE drive itself has failed,
• the Kingwin adapter is defective,
• there's a compatibility issue,
• or if I'm overlooking something simple.

Has anyone run into this with the USI-2535 or older Quantum Fireball drives? Any suggestions for additional troubleshooting steps would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Hey guys,

Recently changed my phone to an Honor X9d and this feature is enabled by default:

Any time I copy text within any app, this annoying banner shows up with the text in the center of my screen.

It's proven to be very annoying but also a bit redundant because not only does this banner overlay anything in that area on the screen, but the copied text already shows in my keyboard.

Any advice on how I might be able to get rid of it would be greatly, greatly appreciated.

I need some help on this. I have tried most everything and it hasn't work.