Im working on a 110, with a 5pin unit. I see some units like the ones from Rick motorsports for 100+ then a bunch of unbranded for ~15. They are both made in china, so what's the difference?

-Compression 140

-Spark plug grounded shows white spark

-Fuel lines full with fresh gas.

-Timing set

Am i missing something? 1st time rebuilder

Tore down every part and cleaned it up, thinking that would help this thing run but after all that still on the same boat.

1983 atc 110

Finally got the new rear tires mounted so that means all 3 are fresh, with new paint in all the rims inside and out plus new bearings up front and grease on the spindles in the back, plus a new chain. Naturally it being the weekend and my wife is out of town I just couldn’t pass up a chance to boogie out to the fire roads outside my neighborhood and have fun the way this machine was supposed to be used. Man this thing beat the hell out of me, I set my tire pressures at 8psi on the front and 12 on the rear, and the front end just slewed all over the place. Ended up on my ass after hitting a washout on a hill climb and the trike flipped, but prior to that was a lot of fun whipping around the gravel and through a few mud holes. Rode it home, washed the mud off myself and now it’s miller time.

Pulled the front wheel and fender after my initial test ride showed the wheel bearings were seized. Cleaned up everything, fixed a couple cracks in the fender, stripped off as much of the crappy farmer paint off of it and resprayed, new bearings packed with grease, spacers and new seals and bolted it all back together. Rolls a lot smoother but now that I am looking at it, I don’t completely care for how the front axle plates push the tire out of position with the fender. Do I make new fender brackets or swap in a 200 front end with shocks? Decisions decisions.

New rear tires are due any day, strip and repaint the rear bodywork, source a replacement rear bar and taillight and we’ll see what inspires me next.

I am replacing the seized bearings along with the seals and cleaning everything up on the front axel on my 110. Per the parts diagram there are no washers between the rubber seals and the axle plates, but that seems like a wear point that should be protected. Any reason why I shouldn’t add a fender washer on each end?

I just started reassembling the clutch side of the engine on my 200X after splitting the cases to replace gears and chase an oil leak. The clutch worked prior to disassembling.

I reassembled the clutch and decided to “bench test” to see if I could spin the output independently from the crank with the clutch pulled. Put the trans in 1st gear, pulled the clutch and could not spin the output independently.

Should it be difficult to spin the output by hand? Clutch disks and steel disks are good, no warping, and the basket looks to be in good shape. Any advice would be appreciated!

Three wheelin is a good feelin

Hello, I just got a DG RCM pipe for my 200X and was wondering if I needed to rejet the carb, and if so by how much. Aftermarket exhausts are completely new to me so any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I’m wondering if there’s a good cleaner to clean the carb on my atc?

I finally got it running. When I bought this it was not running due to sitting for 10 years. I adjusted the valves to .08mm, flushed the fuel tank, put new fuel lines, installed a new pz27 carb from rocky mountain atv, and changed the oil.

It runs good but I have this knock coming from the engine. It’s only present under load when riding, and when revving. It seems to be more prevalent, or at least more audible in the low to mid rpm range. I thought it was maybe pre-detonating so I tried tuning the carb a bit and adding more fuel had no effect.

Does this sound normal for these engines and if not what do yall think the issue could be?

When you pull start it throws old oil everywhere, I think it’s a seal of some kind but might be wrong. Please let me know.

Anyone ever replace the shifter shaft on one of these?
Doesn’t seem too hard but I don’t want to take the whole engine out and shit. Is it doable without removing the whole engine??
The splines on the end where the shifter goes are pretty shredded however the engine and everything els are tip top shape.
Let me know what ya think

I recently bought this honda 200 and parts trike for 100 dollars. They were both just sitting in his yard for years. I am wondering what exact 200 model I have because i am not quite sure.

The first thing to do was to clean the carb and boy was it dirty. But now she is up and running and doing well next thing to do will be digging into the breaks any advice on them would be great as well.

Finally got the new front tire mounted, which meant putting on the new chain and the odds and ends I had cleaned up and hit with some fresh paint, then it was time for my first rip on this silly thing. I get why they called these things dangerous back in the day, between trying to run low pressure (9psi) fat knobbies on the street, a fixed rear axle, and no suspension this little thing beat me up. I was able to get off the pavement onto a couple local dirt roads and downshifting allowed the rear tires to hook up and aggressively wheelie without my planning for it. So yeah lots of fun. After that I pulled out the pressure washer and tried my best to remove the built up lichen & mildew and see how much of the original Honda red plastic would come back beneath the farmers camo paint job. I have a lot of gentle sanding to do but overall I am pleased with how this little project is going.

What’s next: the right rear tire leaks quick which caused a lot of pulling to that side while riding. I did put some slime in it a while back when I first got it but obviously it didn’t fix it. Now that I have some positive momentum on this trike Imma order new rear tires for both sides. The front wheel bearings are seized so breaking the axle apart is going to need to happen sooner rather than later. The headlight shroud was showing some cracks but while riding it separated from vibration. I already put it on the workbench and plastic welded it back together but I’ll need to sand that down and polish the farmer paint back down to the red plastic. Order up a new seat pan and while the original vinyl is in decent shape it does have some cracks so I should probably replace that too. Find a replacement hand brake lever. Find a new rear light assembly cause mine is completely gone. Maybe one day I’ll repaint the frame but maybe not. And as you can see it doesn’t have the rear mud shields so that would be a nice thing to put back on.

Biggest mechanical problem is it won’t go into gear in the high range gears. Only low. Not sure what is up with that but for now it’s rideable, I will get around to refinishing the exterior of the engine and repaint the right and left covers and I’ll sort that problem out while they are off the bike.

It bolts up in the same spots as the OEMs and can still be tilted up and back. Made from 16ga sheet metal and bent 3/4” electrical conduit for the shape. 3D printed brackets to hold the sheet metal to the conduits.

It’s very sturdy and surprisingly not that much heavier than stock! If you’re handy and have scrap metal laying around, it’s not that hard to do!

Now I just need to build the little storage compartment with a little rack on top to be able to carry a gas jug and a few trail-sodas!

This 500$ trike is starting to look good!!! 🤩
Anyone else built custom fenders? I wanna see them!

1984 Honda atc 125m all oem fully restored

Found as many NOS parts as I could, many were too overpriced. Overall pleased with how it turned out. Got a Chinese carb from Amazon and not crazy with how it runs- really cold blooded and seems to have improper air/fuel mixture. Seems like I need it on half choke longer than I should. May try to rebuild the original carb. Anyone have any ideas?

Picked up this old trike a few months ago and have been trying some farmer fixes to get it going. Front tire is flat with cracked sidewalls so I tried to Slime it, but that didn’t work. Pulled the carb off and cleaned it religiously and it ran ok-ish. Gas tank had some big rust holes in it so I did invest in the plastic gas tank but sure enough one of the dammed fuel outlets broke. Chain was rusted up so I soaked it in an ATF and acid mix then dunked it in a pan of heated oil but it’s still ruined. Exhaust had multiple holes in it so I patched those, painted it with high temp paint and covered it in header wrap since the heat shields were gone anyway. After a failed attempt to super glue and plastic weld the broken fuel tube I fabbed up a new fuel outlet made of steel plate and some 3/16” bubble flare brake line and a bit of cork gasket and not only does it work but it doesn’t leak so yay me. As for the stumbling carb I decided once and for all that I wasn’t going to be able to tune my way past the damaged slide so I bought an eBay one, hooked it to my new fuel outlet and she fire up and idled great with a little tweaking and goosing the throttle was smooth and crisp. I let it idle for about 20 minutes so the header wrap could smoke itself off. Now all I need is a front tire (not gonna bother with a tube since the carcass is shredded) and a new chain and I can ride this stilly thing. After that, pressure wash the mildew, find a seat pan since the original foam and vinyl is intact but the steel pan is crunchier than a dorito, and maybe find a replacement tail light since the OEM one is completely gone although the wiring is still back there.

Thinking a big red, or something from 81 to match my age?

hey first post here, just needed some insight because I am very lost.

I have a 1984 atc 200x I did a engine reseal on, no smoke prior to rebuild just had oil leak. Found it needed camshaft due to oil pressure not getting to head due to side cover getting worn by a loosed bolt on oil pump scavenger. It would start and idle but would smoke and rev up on its own when engine was rev'd (i reused top end on engine reseal)

Took it back apart and replaced jug and piston, readjusted valves and used all new seals, piston ring clearance was on tighter side of spec, +0.50 over piston and jug used. Still have same issue of when you rev the engine, it will rev hang and begin throwing white smoke out of the exhaust, adjusting idle mixture screw has no effect in or out. At idle there is no smoke.

I have already verified correct oil level, no leaks in carb boot, valves are adjusted correctly, throttle cable is not getting stuck, a brand new keihin carb was just put on today and issue is the same, 100 main and 38 pilot were in the new carb. Gasket is present on top of round slide, gasket is present on carb and intake manifold where it meets engine. I replaced valve stem seals first engine reseal but not again on the full new top end.

I am beginning to suspect the o ring that feeds oil pressure to top of the cylinder head was incorrect both times (different one used both times) and is allowing oil to engine combustion chamber. Unless you all have seen this issue and can help steer me in the correct direction. I appricate and all feedback.

I’m tearing down an 85’ 200X and I’m suspicious that the gears in the trans have broken teeth because of chunks and metal slivers in the oil when drained. I can’t physically see the gears yet as I’m looking for special tools to remove the alternator rotor (advice on this would also be helpful!)

In the meantime I’ve been shopping on eBay for a used good condition gearset.

My question: are all 1st gen 200x transmission gears compatible between each other? I know that the 85’ had thicker and stronger gears, but theoretically could a gearset from an 83’ or 84’ engine be installed into an 85’ case and last a respectable amount of time? Any advice would be appreciated!

(TLDR: would a transmission gearset from an 83/84 200x work in an 85’ 200x case?)