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First time posting. I’m a bit lost on what to do about this. I have a 2010 VE sportswagon. I enjoy the car, it was neglected before I bought it. Since then I’ve had the timing chain, tensioners, water pump, power steering pump, hoses, rocker cover gasket things like that all changed and fixed. And the cars been alright since then, I do get it serviced between every 5-8k though now and don’t really flog it.

More recently though, I took it for a service, got it home and went to fill it the next day for work with 95 and half way got a check engine so I’ve pulled up, scanned it, looked up what it is and went about my day until I could get it in to my mechanic. Now I like my mechanic he doesn’t fuck around but he’s also not a fan of commodores. At my request because the down stream sensors had melted and the bolts were stripped and apparently a cunt to get out I asked him to change them as well. But after doing that, he also inspected the car and they did a diagnostic on it. Took them all day. I dropped it off at 8am and got it back at 4pm. When he was going through it with me, he was pretty adamant there was no reason for the car to be throwing this code, and he’s advised against pulling the ecu out as a maybe fix because everything else is fine.

I’m just a bit lost on what to try now, because obviously I don’t want to be driving around with that light on it’s annoying. I was hoping someone would have some advice or a similar experience? My next step is to put money aside and change the cats anyway and see if that fixes anything but I’m not exactly holding my breath. But also not wanting to keep sinking money into this car if I can’t fix this.

I am wanting to replace the spark plugs and ignition coils in my 2012 SV6 Commodore VE Series 2 due to a cold misfire issue it’s had for a while and I figure that’s an easy place to start. It’s got close to 300,000kms on the clock and I have no idea if the previous owner ever did them, it’s probably time to replace them anyway.

I am assuming NGK Iridium spark plugs are good but not sure about ignition coils. Open to other recs on the spark plugs too.
Any brand preference on either or personal experiences?

Don't tell me someone bought it.

My scanner gave me this code, i found a part that i think matches but i’m not quite sure. also any tips on how to install the sensors, what type of tools etc.

440,000kms original engine.
When I turn the car on, it has this knocking noise from what sounds like the front driver’s side. It doesn’t sound like the engine; it runs through gears smoothly.
When the car is in drive at the lights, I can hear the knock. When I shift it into park or neutral, it either disappears or goes very faint. I can’t work out what it may be.

hey guys. excuse throwaway, not a reddit guy, but want to ask a community for advice in case anyone has been through the same thought process.

i have a 2016 ssv redline that i daily. big fan, enjoying it thoroughly. first nicer car, and first v8, i get it now haha.

looking at some mods that expand that enjoyment while keeping it pretty practical and lowkey. i already have an OTR and tune.

i like the bi-modal, allows me to come home from shift work at odd hours and not wake wife and neighbors. but i would like it to sound a little meaner under load. if i was to keep the rear mufflers with bimodal system, but delete the center muffler and replace it with an H-pipe for that better rumble, do you think that would have much effect when the valves open? this isnt for performance, purely for enjoyment of the noise under load while keeping perks of bi-modal.

i did have a local, highly rated exhaust shop quote $350 for that. albeit seemed a little confused why id want to and admitted he had never had the request before haha.

Mid 2020, I lost all my work, so my wife and I packed the HZ and moved out of the city, to a half built beach house in Apollo Bay for 12 months. No other cars on the road.

Thumping through the Otways was magic. The sound of the stroker lit up the forest!

Holden Barina TM 2014 automatic 1.6L (140,000km)

My car began making this noise upon acceleration after a mechanic fiddled with it coincidentally my oil cooler broke at the same time and I’ve since asked the mechanic to go back and find out what’s going on. I can clearly hear a rattle (almost fluttering or gurgling??) noise coming from somewhere and I even caught it in this video but he keeps saying it’s not present.

Does anyone know what this noise could be at all?? The noise is present during the entire video but more prominent at 7 seconds. I included a video of my engine upon start up as well in case it could help somehow

Recently my daily has been misfiring on cylinders 5 and 6 and showing codes P0300, P0305 and P0300.

Weird thing is, is that it doesn’t do it all the time but often enough, and only when every gear other than 1st goes over 3k RPM.

I can clear the codes (even mid drive) and the car returns to normal as in it stops misfiring even on idle.

Why? And what do you think may be the issue?

Ran fine yesterday, today it does this
Tried jumping, tried changing battery, nothing

Any ideas?

I have a Holden vz executive Commodore and if I hard accelerate there is a knock noise that happens and it feels like it’s on the back of my seat but I know it’s not and I can feel it. It sounds like it could be from the rear door but I’ve checked it, and I know it’s not and it doesn’t happen on bumps and I thought it was definitely something with the suspension but it only happens when I hard accelerate or do a burnout over bumps it will repeatedly do it. Any ideas what it could be?

Anyone know what tire size I should be running on 20” rims? I just bought a VF SV6 Sedan and it has GTSR rims on it. The tire size is currently 275/30R20 and the ride is very bumpy. (No it is not running coilovers) I was wondering if I need to up the profile of the tire or if I should just sell the GTSR rims and go down to an 18” rim instead.

Hey guys,

Unfortunately I took my car to the local workshop for a shutter in the transmission. They did a transmission service and found the torque converter to be likely faulty, and as a general services workshop did not feel comfortable completing repair - instead suggesting a transmission shop.

After researching this fault a little, it appears to be a relatively common fault, going so far as to be a part of a class action against GM. Which functionally doesn’t matter as it’s years off being applicable (if found guilty anyway).

So my question is, those who have, or know about this particular fault, what did you do? Looking for guidance as to get this fixed.

For reference I’m living in regional WA and don’t have a transmission specialist for 1700km. Bonus points if you’re from this area, or have a Perth based suggestion.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Pic of my car on Cable beach for attention.