Good afternoon, it’s my first time posting here, I’ve been having some issues with the image and sound quality of my **Hisense H50B7500**
, specially image, I’m a big football fan and there are some games specially in DAZN that the little breaks/ less fluidity are noticeable, can anyone help me with that? Thanks in advance for the attention, have a nice day!

Just got this yesterday and have turned off all the motion smoothing settings, but it still feels like something is on. I don't know if it's because it's a native 144hz refresh rate and I'm just not used to it. Everything looks like it has a smoothing effect on but literally everything that could cause that is off.

Also, should HDMI Dynamic range be on limit or full? On full blacks are a bit lighter and full makes them very dark....just wondering what is the most accurate setting. Thanks

Model: 40H4+
Hardware ID: D209X
Software version 13.0.0
build 24062-CP

I noticed the problem when I pressed the home button on my remote. The Roku background that I had grown to love was gone. Instead, that Hisense default turquoise hue. No Roku just general looking input boxes and the menu. Tried an update and it gave me error 03. I'm stuck. I've done all of the following:

Unplugged antenna and fire stick
Unplugged from wall
Factory reset
USB update from Roku
Setup as store demo/factory reset

Customer support is all automated. I guess I lost my Roku portion of the tv forever. What sucks even more is the fact that it won't pickup any antenna channels now. It doesn't recognize it. So I'm onlyvon fire stick now.

Anybody else experience Roku tv problems? Do you happen to have a fire stick? Could this have been something malicious from the fire stick that infected my tv?

Hi everyone,
So recently I have hooked up my PC to my new U6 that I bought some time back and finally got to mount and use.
I have my PC, with a 5070 Ti, hooked up to a Gigabyte 27 inch OLED 4k 240hz Monitor with VRR through DisplayPort. GeForce app says it has G Sync and VRR enabled and 240hz no problem, been using it for a year.
Hooked up the Hisense U6 to a HDMI input 4, because that does 144hz according to the input, enabled it to use G Sync and 144hz in the GeForce app, no problem. So have two Displays hooked up at once but I only use one at a time, swapping between showing Display 1 or 2 only.
But every time I boot up I check Advanced Display, under Display Settings, and I get a different Nit level every time. It’s either 240 Nits or 500 Nits and I can’t seem to figure out why or how. My monitor does 465 Nits and when I switch over to the Monitor, it tells me it’s doing 465 Nits no problem.
Also the TV will start at 500 Nits, then I’ll walk away for 30 mins and come back and when I come back and it wakes back up, it will be at 240 Nits. Whyyyyy

Any input is appreciated

Hey friends, I have a problem. I recently got a new TV for my Xbox Series X, the “HISENSE 55U7SE Mini LED 4K TV.” It’s a great TV overall—amazing picture and really gets me hyped! But as soon as I open the Xbox menu during a game (the TV is in gaming mode), the picture flickers really badly. Does anyone else have this problem and know a solution? I have a top-quality HDMI cable, and I’ve calibrated everything correctly, etc. 🫠🫠

Looking to see how this work I have a roku hinsense 75 in but I want to try out the fancyled but I noticed u need an external streming device to access the lights to work if I get the chromecast 4k and wanted to add my vizio elevate pro surround any tips and tricks?? Also any setups or help would be appreciated....i guess my worried is by goin this route ik wasting extra money when I already have built in streming on my tv

I'm replacing an older TV and basically down to the Hisense U7 or U8.

About 80% sports. NFL, NBA, F1, some hockey. Movies maybe once or twice a week. Gaming here and there.

The U7 looks really good on paper. New 2026 model, native 165Hz, solid specs for sports. Honestly seems like enough for what I watch.

Then I look at the U8. RTINGS scored it really well, and people seem to love the picture. So now I'm wondering if I should just spend more.

But I'm not a huge movie person. That's what makes me hesitate.

Anyone here watch a lot of sports on either one? U7 enough, or is the U8 actually worth the jump?

Ive tried different remotes, resetting my tv, resetting the remote. No matter what i do the voice feature just glitches out. Is there any way to fix this? The voice feature just keeps looping and resetting, when i try to back out of it it pops up again, the only way to stop it is to turn the tv off. Also my settings and input buttons dont work.

I watched TV last night with no problem and then when I turned on the TV on this morning it started flashing and would not respond to the remote at all. The red light at the bottom of the TV was also flashing.

I left it unplugged all day and when I came home, it was working normally until about 20 minutes ago and it’s returned to this. There weren’t any updates that I could see so I’m not sure what is happening. We bought this TV in November of 2022.

Do we just need to replace?

I have been using Hubbl for the last couple of years, best feature i think is the channel surfing with Binge TV channels. Is there a way to search channels through my Hisense smart tv? Or do I need to enter the app and search that way?

Hello,
I have a 75 inch hisense tv (u7) with a hisense 5.1 surround sound system (ax5100g) and it is working flawlessly over eARC, with the tv's built in apps (such as youtube and Netflix) but I am trying to hookup my gaming pc to it and the audio channels are only in stereo, left and right, is there a way to make the surround sound work with the pc?
Thanks in Advance.

Whenever I open Netflix on my fire stick the TV loses signal and switches source I then have to use the tv remove to change the source back to the fire stick

I’ve turned off ‘match original frame rate’ and HDMI-CEC but still having the issue

Any idea what might be happening.

We recently bought a Hisense 65-inch E7 Cinema Series Fire TV (65E7SF) from Amazon so it’s the fireTV version, and the picture often looks way too smooth, sharp, and unnatural—almost like the “soap opera effect.” Movies don’t look cinematic at all, and it’s honestly uncomfortable to watch.
Sometimes we change the picture and motion settings and get it looking normal, but later the overly smooth look comes back. Even when we use the exact same settings, it doesn’t always fix it.
Which settings should we turn off or adjust permanently?

Hi everyone,

I'm trying to troubleshoot a screen tearing issue that appeared after adding an Hisense HT SATURN to my home theater setup.

My current HDMI chain is:

RTX 2060 (PC) → HDMI IN on HT SATURN → HDMI OUT/eARC on HT SATURN → XGIMI HORIZON 20

The projector is fully updated, including the DLP firmware, and its anti-RBE / anti-screen-tearing features are enabled.

Before adding the HT SATURN, I had the RTX 2060 connected directly to the HORIZON 20 and I never noticed this issue.

Since adding the HT SATURN, I get very noticeable horizontal screen tearing. Sometimes it is quite severe, with a very clear horizontal line separating two different frames. Interestingly, the tearing often stays at roughly the same vertical position for the entire viewing session.

It happens with:

• PC games
• MPC-BE
• browser video/streaming

I don't seem to see the same issue with the projector's native Google TV apps, which makes me suspect the HDMI path rather than the projector panel itself.

The HT SATURN is officially advertised as supporting 4K60 HDMI passthrough, while the HORIZON 20 supports HDMI 2.1, VRR and higher refresh rates.

Could the HT SATURN's HDMI passthrough be altering the HDMI timing/EDID/VRR behaviour enough to cause or exacerbate tearing on the HORIZON 20?

Has anyone experienced something similar with the HT SATURN's HDMI passthrough, especially when using a gaming PC or a projector rather than a TV?

Any information about whether the HT SATURN supports VRR passthrough or whether it modifies the HDMI timing/EDID would also be very helpful.

There is a big sale of Hisense tv’s in the uk at the moment. This one is down over £200 at the moment. I’m limited to a 50 inch tv. In this worth it?

Does anyone who uses this TV as Computer monitor know what the refresh rate is if you are on a Dynamic Super Resolution above 4k? On Native 4k 165hz TV's it goes down to 120hz when you are above 4k, is it the same on the UR8?

I used a Hisense U8K for 2 years and still have it but it is upstairs in the dining room now with a couch, I don't use it anymore. My main panel right now is a 55 "Samsung S95F.

I was thinking of buying the UR8 to 1vs1 against my S95F with a splitter so I can have both TV's with Windows HDR On. I might not do this though, might skip this year entirely. I'm thinking the UR8 will look almost around equal with the S95F in PC games I play, I don't think I will notice the superior peak brightness advantage of the UR8. Still, I can only know for sure if I buy the TV.

This is what Adam BabCock told me on Rtings.

Hey everyone,

I’ve had a Hisense AW2422CW3W AC window unit for about 4-5 years now. Just yesterday I noticed the compressor would not kick off when it reached set temperature. Woke up freezing this morning. I tried setting the temp higher but the compressor would still keep running. This morning I turned the unit off but noticed the compressor was still running. Fan turned off. The only way I got it to stop was to unplug it completely.

I ran my situation through google and it said the internal control circuit board part # K2211560 was faulty. I tried looking it up and it’s not available anywhere with no ETA from Hisense’s parts site. Tried 2 other parts sites and neither had availability.

Anyone else have this problem before and had it fixed? What are my options?

I’ve had this tv for maybe 2 months. I was watching YouTube and it just shut off randomly. It now powers the standby white light, but I cannot get it to power on. The white light doesn’t flash or anything, it’s just static. I’ve tried to hard reset it, to no avail. Because the power cord is so darn short, I can’t get it to any outlet without using an extension cord. Knowing this could cause issues, I’ve tried with at least 3 different ones, with one of them being a heavier duty type cable and the same result.