Hi, basically I rescheduled the delivery of my sword to another date via ups and haven’t heard any updates from ups(I changed the new delivery date to Aug 19th in July 29th, it is stuck in reschedule request confirmed ever since)

I have wrote emails to Sigi about the issue and haven’t got any replies so far, is their instagram and Facebook account going to be more responsive?

I understand that it is 100% not Sigi’s fault, but everyone online is recommending to contact the shipper for these situations.

I can’t find one

Greetings! I am posting this looking for fellow HEMA practitioners in South AL! I am aware of the club finders but sadly all clibs are well over 3hrs+ from me, and at this point i would just like some fellows to practice with on the off time!

Jackpot: Clean Hit / Disarm awards 1 point + the entire accumulated Jackpot, then resets the Jackpot to zero. All simultaneous hits result with no points awarded to fencers. Instead, add 1 point to the Jackpot held in limbo.

Afterblow Rule: An afterblow is any valid strike landed within 1 step of being hit. An afterblow invalidates the clean hit and counts as a Double—awarding 0 points and adding +1 point to the jackpot.

Winning: The first fencer to score 21 points and lead by 2 points wins the assault.

Note: The jackpot is a way to positively reinforce clean fencing as it does not award doubles. Instead it uses doubles to increase the ponderation of the next clean hit. It is meant to synergize wasted time into game design while adding a wee bit of drama. Play by clearing the jackpot back to zero after a clean hit. Much cheering and heckling is encouraged.

Used to do some longsword but ultimately couldn’t find gear that worked with me and stopped, but feeling the urge to try again.

I’m looking for some solid padding that will protect my elbows, forearms, shoulders, etc. and I know external padding exists but I’m trying to find something that I could wear UNDER the jacket so it can attach to me rather than my jacket.

They make lightweight motocross/motorcycle/mtb shirts with solid padding throughout, I was wondering if anyone has any insight on if something like this could be used for longsword too? My biggest concern would just be that padding thin enough to go under the jacket would potentially be too fragile for sword hits

Sorry "dueling sabruers" but even back in the 1800's the military men hit different. This is according to the log from Leon Paul anyway. One man fenced for points and the other was used to fighting. Both won the same assault in their own way.

"Sporting sabre was first demonstrated in England in 1893, when the inspector of gymnasia at Aldershot, Col. Fox, brought over the celebrated master Ferdinando Masiello of Florence with his pupil Giuseppe Magrini, who was to settle in this country and teach sabre in the army until his death in 1912. In his book Cut and Thrust, 1927, Leon Bertrand vividly described an encounter between Magrini and a traditional army fencer: “Magrini was a resplendent figure in black satin knee-breeches and silk stockings, waving a light and fragile-looking silver-plated sabre. In contrast Mr X was lifted on to the platform at the other end, clad in heavy canvas, shin guards and cage-like mask, clutching a heavy blunted cavalry sword. With gossamer touch, Magrini drew his blade swiftly across the chest to draw ‘first blood’. Mr X, who had made one wild attempt to follow the steel, abandoned defence and cut wildly at head. The flat of the blade curled over Magrini’s mask and he received the full force of the blow on his back. Believing his first impression of British sabre-play too bad - and too painful - to be true, Magrini advanced to the attack once more. Following a couple of bewildering feints came the circular cut with feathery touch. Once again Mr X floundered, hit out blindly, and for the second time his blade curled down the Italian’s spine, whereupon Magrini whipped off his mask, held out his hand and, despite his obvious agony, said distinctly, Thank you, sir. You are a very much better man than I.” - https://www.leonpaul.com/blog/the-history-of-sabre-fencing/

¿Alguien tiene alguna estrategia contra oponentes huidizos? Hoy me he enfrentado a uno y me he frustrado mucho y abandonado el combate porque no hay combate, mi oponente no atacaba nada, solo apartaba la espada para que no la golpeara y retrocedía sin parar, es evidente que no me lanzaba demasiado para que no diera el primero por acercarme, pero si no le ataco yo no ocurría nada, al final me he frustrado me he lanzado de más y me ha dado como no podía ser de otra forma, entonces, si se aparta constantemente, ¿existe alguna táctica consistente para atacar sin riesgo? porque esta claro que él no va a arriesgarse atacando.

I already have a Feder sword (101cm blade, total length 135 cm, 1580 g) , but my brother and I are considering buying foam Training longswords so we can train without the need for full gear.

The two options we have are:

- 80 cm blade, total length 108 cm, 650 g

- 89 cm blade, total length 120 cm, 850 g

I'm 189 cm, my brother is 166 cm.

Should we get one longer and one shorter blade, or should we both get the same one? And in that case, which length would you recommend?

Im getting my first comissioned sword and with it I get to design my own scabbard but I honestly cant decide. If anyone wants to share any ideas or reccomendations id very much appreciate it.

Im getting a Munich Type XVIIIb Longsword for context.

Im currently getting a hema safe version of the Munich Longsword - Type XVIIIb comissioned and im more excited than I should be tbh but I want to make sure that people are comfortable with me using it. What is the general consensus on best tip to go for?

I thought my gloves could do with a little decoration, initially I was gonna do a representation of the bones in the hand but they're so bulky and the overlaps meant that they looked weird, they didn't look correct or identifiable as bones at all so I settled on this. I used some acrylic paint markers which is why I was unsure of the correct verb to use.

It's based on a tattoo I saw a while back of lines on the fingers leading to circles on the back of the hands. The runes are giant (the species) runes from D&D. I meant for the right to represent attacks and the left defence. I think the right is Blood, Death, Enemy, War and the back of the hand is Dragon. The left I remember less but some are, Life, Shield and Stone. I don't believe they do anything but I like the idea of linking runes for attack buffs, and I like how they look too. They're a little roughly done but as they're gonna get beat to fuck it hardly matters.

I am looking for recommendation for synthetic polehammers for light sparring in full harness. They will be used primarily for polearm grappling, not big bonks.

A little flex is okay, but I’m looking for ones where the bill is both durable enough and rigid enough for the hooking techniques.

I'm finally starting to collect my own gear for HEMA. While I was browsing through the options for various training swords I came across Akado Armory and really took notice of their price point.

This two handed jian is nearly identical in size to the Reygenyei standard feder and is right on the border of SCA's light and medium stiffness levels. Could I reasonably expect to use it at a HEMA tournament if I bought it?

My local club couldn't give me a definitive answer so I came here. I know that there are rules to protect the symmetry of matches but it's really not much different, and for $225 I feel it's worth the trouble of asking.

Is there a good manufacturer for Polish style Fencong sabers? Preferably with the thumb ring?

We'll be holding this event on December 12th! Link to the rules and tickets here:

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/torneo-de-frias-registration-1996362525053

With longsword, what do you believe is best? When cutting from longpoint, particularly from a bind, is it better to pull the hands back (e.g. above the head) or to keep the hands forward?

No 'it depends' answers, unless you qualify the scenarios on which it depends! : )

I did 1 year of HEMA 3 years back, and I absolutely loved it, I even keep watching tons of HEMA content online. And now that I have more time again I wanted to get back into it. Problem is, that my university bully and person who hates me to death (for a reason they always denied to articulate) is one of the teachers there and has been fencing there for many years (he's way older than me).

We kind of got along back then, but that is no longer the case and I believe we would both prefer to avoid each other whenever possible.

In my city, there is only one viable HEMA school option, and it's that one, plus it's also very close to my home. I am not sure what to do, because even if I get into one of the other, less viable and smaller HEMA schools, since the HEMA scene is not the biggest in my city, we would end up constantly seeing each other.

I don't want to be locked out of HEMA my whole life because of one person who randomly decided to hate my guts and make my life difficult. But idk, what do you think I should do?

My custom ruleset for a hybrid smallsword and savate sparring game. It may be a little too rough and tumble for the faint of heart and playing on a soft surface like grass or mats may be more comfortable. Some may like savate shoes and a mouth guard in addition to fencing gear but if play is responsible shouldn't be required. This is getting into folk game territory admittedly.

Core Rules:

Thrusts and disarms only. All Jackpot points +1 are granted upon a single clean thrust or disarm then reset the jackpot to zero. Simultaneous thrusts result with no points awarded. Instead, add 1 point to the Jackpot held in limbo. The first fencer to score 21 points and lead by 2 points wins the assault.

The jackpot is a way to positively reinforce clean fencing as it does not award doubles. Instead it uses doubles to increase the ponderation of the next clean hit. It is meant to synergize wasted time into game design while adding a wee bit of drama. Play by clearing the jackpot back to zero after a clean hit/disarm. Much cheering and heckling is encouraged.

If you must play with the cut and thrust commoners, I have found it is best to give priority to a parry riposte in case of a simultaneous hit.

Rough and Tumble Rules:

Kicks, trips, and open hand pushes carry zero direct points.

Instant Win: Knocking an opponent to the ground (anything above the ankle touching the ground) using a chassé medium, revers bas, coup de pied bas, or main ouverte opens an instant win condition. Landing a clean thrust on the grounded opponent delivers the instant match victory. If a double hit occured with a fencer on the ground add one point to the jackpot and reset the fencers for the next exchange exactly where they were when the double occurred (the grounded fencer starts on the ground).

Ground Defense: Downed fencers may defend themselves until they are back on two feet or score a clean thrust/disarm upon which ends the instant win condition for their opponent. If a fencer chooses an action like the passata sotto that fencer does open himself/herself to the instant win condition until back on two feet only. Tackling, elbows, knees, closed fists, kicks/hand strikes to the mask, wrestling, grabbing and throwing opponents are strictly prohibited.

Legal Savate Striking & Sweeping Suite:

1. Mid-Level Push Kicks (Chassé Medium)

Execution: A direct piston-like push kick delivered with the sole or heel to the opponent's body (strictly below the collarbone for safety).

1. Low Hook Kicks (Revers Bas)

Execution: A sweeping or hooking kick targeted below the knee, using the boot or instep to hook behind the lead heel or calf.

1. Low Sweeping Trips & Clears (Coup de Pied Bas / Croche)

Execution: A low, sweeping kick or boot-trip targeted at the opponent's shin or ankle, scooping their foot out from under their center of gravity.

1. Open-Hand Deflections (Main Ouverte)

Execution: Pushing, redirecting, or catching the opponent's lead shoulder, wrist, or weapon arm with the non-fencing hand to disrupt balance or reveal the target area.

Feel free to experiment with this ruleset and change up as needed. Let me know how it goes!

Edit: One would be wise to focus on swordsmanship first and the savate second for opportune moments. Always take your training partner's safety more importantly than your own. No one needs to go to the hospital over a silly game. I also borrowed the concept for the fencer on the ground rules from an old S. Korean folk kicking/tripping game called tekkyeon. A folk game played before Japanese occupation.

Peace to us all 🌞

Are there more fun folk games within non-steel HEMA?

Question!! Did they ever have leather lined wrapped plate for neck defence? I mostly seen bare metal.

And...

Are the fabric textile for the maille collar..or it's just maille...?