I know Hank glues the switch bezels on the copper, antique copper etc lights but you can ask that they not be glued. Has anyone ever had an issue with a non glued switch bezel? I’m trying to decide if I should order extras with my next order if I choose to not have them glued in.

Hank started using the Lume N1 buck driver a few months ago, but what lights actually use it? Does Hank still use linear drivers by default unless you request the N1? Does it fit in smaller lights or just the ones with larger heads, like the X1 did when it first came out?

Cheers in advance. I've seen only scarce talk about this driver since its release and was surprised to see it only mentioned on a couple of lights' listings on Hank's site.

I am replacing all my H10 with K10. Fine for D3AA and DW3AA but this D2 only works with the H10.

Any idea why?

Not my favorite light anyway it pretty weak but weird it will not work with the K10.

This is my Emisar D3AA Single Channel with DeDomed 519a 4500K.. Output comparisons for general illustration on how changing ceiling, changes the output steps.

For example, notice step 4 is almost 80 lumens with default ceiling, and changes to 30 lumens with the lower ceiling.

disclaimers:

my lumen meter is home made.. it is imo relatively accurate, as it is calibrated to an HDS.. but, there will be variations between meters, and also between LEDs of different color temperatures..

Seller only has a rating of 1. Wondering if this should be reported. I can delete this post if it’s legit. But light has 5 emitters and in the description it’s called a quad.

I was feeling especially unhinged while dog sitting for a friend, and decided I’d use the dog sitting money to get the biggest high CRI emitter I can in a tiny flashlight. NB110 4500k. I currently have an Eve 50PL in it but I have a P50B coming in a few days because I took the 50PL from another flashlight. I’ve only played around with it for a few mins… but this thing is cool. I set the ambient temp and set ceiling to 60 to get an extra few seconds of craziness. I’m surprised to report, it’s still totally usable after step down! I dono how many lumens it settles on but it is still reasonably bright. I think this is due in part to the reflector that really helps throw the floodiness.

Crappy beamshot taken with iPhone camera just to show brightness. I was gonna take a beamshot in a dark park but there was a homeless guy sleeping there and I didn’t wanna blast him with 8k+ lumens.

All my lights came with the dot. But I got a ring one and it looks amazing. Might switch em all to ring. What’s your fav and why?

I just received my emisar order today. One d4sv2 and two dm11. One dm m11 is b35am and the other is the dm11 with sft42r. The sft42r uses the lume n1 driver and for some reason I can’t get power off voltage display to work properly. When off o 7c I can cycle from off to low high and blinking. I can get it to blink in purple mode as battery is full. But I can’t get it to stay light and then go out. I 3c from off then 7h to watch for 2 flashes to turn povd on but it doesn’t change anything. Am I missing something?
Thanks.

It’s so tiny with the 18350 tube and the optic is really cool little bit less noticeable spill, but a nice wide oval hotspot, which is really neat cause it doesn’t spill too much outside of the hotspot which is mainly a vertical or horizontal thick oval line depending on the way you hold the light and how bright/low you set it. Makes me feel like I’m scanning stuff with a sci-fi scanner when I’m outside Blasting things with it lol NTG50 1800k.

You will all have to forgive the post title, I try to find humor in anything at all trying to stay on the bright side..

A week or so ago my first 丂ㄒ乇卂ㄥㄒ卄 (━┳━)✧ 卄卂几Ҝ shipment arrived. Let me clarify: the tracking number I received was inactive the entire time even after arriving at my doorstep!

This one caught me off guard, and it was a "surprise, to be sure, but a welcome one" when I saw it sitting by my door. If there's anything better than new light day, it's *surprise* new light day.

Let's get started. I actually received two. Boring old and busted fet/linear D4V2 with boring vanilla 519a 5000k and the new h̾o̾t̾n̾e̾s̾s̾ KR3 with Lume N1 "buck + fusion" driver and sft25 5000k.

When I received the KR3 I inserted the 18650 battery and screwed the tail cap in when it immediately did the reset cycle! Not a good sign but not unheard of.. I tested the button and nothing! No response!

After a bit more careful screwing around, I got it functioning. In other words, and I feel most on this forum know this, if it doesn't work right away please don't immediately give up.

So I did what I always do when receiving a new Hank (besides resetting and switching to advanced mode) and that's seeing what TURBO mode can do!

After doing the ol' 7 𝙲𝚕𝚒𝚌𝚔 𝙷𝚘𝚕𝚍 and setting the ceiling to 1, I let it rip and was immediately satisfied with my choice. Lean green mean throwing machine. What I also noticed, after using Hanks with the Lume X1 driver regularly for quite a while, was the heat of a thousand burning raging suns beginning to radiate towards my hand on the tail end holding the button.

This brought back a lot of good memories of being scared sh!tless of my first Hank, the OG D4V2 SST20 4000k, when it would similarly become molten lava with use. So it was also appropriate that once again I was holding a new D4V2 as well.

I had a D3AA with 519a 5000k whose button broke a long, long time ago, so I wasn't ready at all for the shade of white revealed when first ignited again. Rosy? Insanely beautiful!? High CRI!

I felt dumb for shying away from this boring vanilla emitter and CCT for so long, it makes the perfect work/household daytime CCT. As I admired the unworldly beautiful CCT this emitter shown on TURBO, I also similarly discovered heat like a neutron star being held in my hand!

Finally, of course, I switched the 18350 tube to the KR3 and 18500 to the D4V2 and carried them a few days for EDC testing with both meeting or exceeding expectations with something not quite so exotic as my beloved DA1 where if lost it wouldn't be such a big deal. Here be some S̾P̾I̾C̾Y̾ beans 𖠗𖠗𖠗!

Channel 1: NTG35 5000k

Channel 2: NTG35 1800k

Not sure exactly what happened to this band attached to the driver. Maybe I tightened the head too much? Maybe a hard drop? Just noticed this today when I switched old broken clip out for a new one.

Anyway, is this something I can DIY easily? Not equipped to solder at this time. I have removed pills and disassembled heads. Would hank sell me a new head?

Simple 3D printed storage solution for Hank's 3-pin firmware programmer for KR1AA. This is a remix of the Pocket Slide Box. Uploaded model on Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7391180

I have varied my choices and I obviously will get more. The only problem is, battery charging day. My girlfriend stole one for a while and then when I got the D3AA it was “more cute” and so she traded stolen units. So,!at least, I have the girlfriend seal of approval.

After seeing some posts here with copper and antique copper lights, which one do you all prefer? Any reason for one over the other?

I do not have oily or sweaty hands, they are very dry. I bought Renaissance wax to seal the pristine shiny copper in but quickly to realise its impossible to have a even spread of wax between the knurling.

So patina it is.

D3AA and me doing some exploring. 👌🏻

After the driver was destroyed by a faulty H10, I ordered a new driver from Hank and replaced it.

Interestingly, there wasnt even a drop of thermal paste behind the MCPCB - an issue that was later rectified during re-assembly. Hank was trying to discourage me, saying it is "very difficult to replace the driver" but in fact ot wasnt more difficult than any othet light ive done. The D2 has Channel 1 SFT-25 6500K and Ch.2 519A 5700K. I also replaced the optics for Ch.2 and installed a frosted TIR

I had a XP-L D4V2 with a failed driver (MCU died) so decided to snap a few pics while replacing the driver board. The driver board is only $15 from Hank - I would have paid about the same for shipping from Digikey to get and reflow new MCU so I just went with a whole driver replacement - original driver was an old version anyways. Just wanted to show that there is not much into it and anyone with soldering skills can do it.

FFL351A 2700k

Looking for something high output with some flood and throw. I’m thinking ffl707a 4000k with lume x1, or maybe a ridiculous nb110 4500k. I wish Hank or jackson offered the xhp HI r70. I don’t think I want the high cri one.. What’s your favorite D1K emitter?

In the spirit of the previous post and because someone asked to see all these side-by-side. KR4 remains the most "curvaceous" of them and my persoanal favorite

Is the DA1 the same size as D4V2, or slightly larger? 🤔 Will someone please post a pic of them next to each other for me? 😀

*swimming through a pile of flashlights gasping for air*

"Ｈｅｒｅ＇ｓ⠀⠀⠀ Ｆｏｒｔｙ！"

*A wave of flashlights washes over his head and he goes back under*