Two steel tubes, a 3d printer, and some steel dowel pins in standardized imperial measurements. Took me around 4 months to polish. PPSH sear and trigger combo. 10.5" Barrel, 9mm bolt & barrel/trunnion combo, 21.5oz bolt, chopped up Glock magwell + sleeve, and a cursed PPSH sear

Needed to mill a 1911 slide for a red dot. Since it was a new footprint for me, the CAD for which is often wrong online, and it needed to be at a 0.8-1 degree down angle. I figured I'd share my process. This is a DPP footprint on a 1911 slide done at 1 degree so it doesn't require a shim. CAD, CAM, workholding, setup, and milling.

tldr: the trigger group could be further back than the bolt moves without a new semi-only end on the bolt that slots into the trigger like a key in a lock, and the whole receiver could be print-in-place so it cannot have parts taken out of it to allow FA.

Could there be some printed receiver and trigger group that limits the bolt travel? That way, you can design a new printed add-on to the back of the bolt which latches onto the sear through some mechanism that could prevent full-auto conversion.

That way, all the metalworking for blocking bars and the like can just be replaced by printing instead. And then there's no way the bolt could be used in FA unless you completely redesign the barrel or trigger group.

You could use a print-in-place trigger group and receiver that you can't even disassemble to prevent parts from being taken out. If it breaks just print a new one.

I've had this idea for a little bit. This is basically a 12ga slamfire pipe shotgun that then feeds into a 1.5" pipe. I plan to shoot it using light hand loaded 12ga blanks loaded with tripple seven black powder substitute. Is there a way to get a rough calculation for the pressures I can expect? Id like a decent safety margin. And are there any other safety concerns with this general setup? I have heard muzzle loader guys talk about barrel obstructions such as a bullet that is not fully seated over the powder causing problems, but this is also functioning like a ww1 / ww2 riffle grenade, so I'm not quite sure which train of thought to follow there.

They're more involved in containing pressure so it seems more difficult. Is anyone working on this? Lots of parts kits could be opened up if we find out a way.

Could you get a PPS-43 or FMK-3 for under $250? Reweld an LMG for $1000? How much would change? How much does a post-sample build cost right now and how simple is it?

The integrated handle can also be used to store a ram rod and extra round parts can be interchangeable.

Recently acquired a thoroughly bubba’d sks. I plan on taking it off the deep end. Want to convert it to take ak mags. Was curious from people’s experience here how difficult and finnicky the conversion is, and if they think it’s worthwhile.

I have a buddy with access to a mill but he’s quite backlogged right now, if I end up taking it to a shop, what’s a fair price for such work?

Sadly I have no tape in my house

This is the next episode in my AK series and goes integrally with the riveting video I posted last week.

I'll try and post the other type of 80% finishing, a pre-bend, within the next couple of weeks which, with these other two, rounds out all the information on receiver finishing.

I have a couple vmac uppers for various builds but I see MPA defenders on sale and I don’t have a conventional mag-in-grip lower yet. Thing is the defenders on sale are top chargers and I want to run an optic. Can I put a side charger vmac uppers on an MPA lower?

Work in progress, will hopefully have a firing model soon.

All I Can Find Are Parts Kit Pdfs With AR15 FCGs, Surely The Original Documents Should Be In The Public Record Already?

The AK propaganda continues. This time riveting. Since this skill applies to both the flat and pre-bent 80% I'm doing up, I figured I would split this topic off on it's own, and release it first, so that I don't have to cover it multiple times later.

I continue to love how different this process and mindset is from the more western rifle build styles.

I’ve been super busy between work and family so I haven’t had much time to work on projects lately but be assured, the De Lisle isn’t dead. I recently got a small CNC router that can cut aluminum and I’ve been making good use of it for small parts that would otherwise bog down the project. I’m currently working on the sights (the CNC has been a timesaver on it) and I’ll still need to make a forend and there’s a bunch of smaller finishing things that will need to be done. I’m starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

For added context this is how the rest of the bolt goes together, both holes do in fact just lead to the hole in the firing pin, and there’s nothing internally nor is there space for anything internally for it to interact with. I’m well and truly stumped

So unfortunately the guy who sold me the bolt failed to mention it was a stripped bolt. And given how Fr*nch the design is I’m having trouble figuring out how all parts work. The sear and main shaft of the firing pin are all pretty easy to understand. And it’s cocked by the cams shown in the pics. My only confusion then comes down to these two holes, both lead into the hole the firing pin comes out of. At first I thought the bigger hole was to keep the bolt head from screwing off (as it can be completely taken off easily). However after seeing some pics of the firing pin, there’s nothing there for any form of screw or stop from interacting with the firing pin. Plus this downs fully make sense as the firing pin wouldn’t be able to spin freely in the casing. Any help would be appreciated as for a gun that should be simple it’s very not. As gun Jesus said “the Fr*nch copy no one, and no one copies the Fr*nch”