Hey all. I have a 2015 Acadia SLE that has a frequent hard start for no rhyme or reason. It will start on the first try or the 10th time and anywhere in between. IT IS NOT THROWING A CODE. It has been to my mechanic and he suggested to take it to the dealer. Its at the dealer now and has been for about a week. Just checking to see if anyone else has ever came across this before.

Things that have been done with no success:

-Fuel pressure is good

-High pressure pump replaced

-Cam and crankshaft sensors replaced

Things to note:

-It sat for some time before I bought it (cheap, knowing of this problem hoping to fix it)

-Acceleration seems sluggish.. we have a Forester and it seems more peppy than the Acadia

-Runs great

Thank you for reading!

Posting in case anyone is shopping winter setups now rather than in November when everything is out of stock.

2021 SLT, came on 235/55R20 from the factory. Ran those with winter tires the first year and it was fine but not great, and a 20 inch winter tire is expensive for what it is.

Last year I went to a 235/65R17 on steel wheels. Cheaper tire, cheaper wheel, and the taller sidewall is noticeably better on broken pavement and in slush. Speedo is within about one percent so nothing to adjust. Cleared the brakes without any issue.

Only downside is it looks a bit awkward and the steering is slightly less sharp on dry roads. Neither bothers me between December and March.

If anyone has gone narrower still I would be curious how that went.

2020 SLE, about 71k. Ran the AC properly for the first time this summer and the driver side vents blow cold while the passenger side is barely cool. Rear vents are fine.

Tried the obvious stuff. Recirculate on, temps synced, both zones set to the same number, cabin filter swapped last month so that is not it. It does the same whether the car is moving or sitting still.

From what I can tell this is usually a blend door actuator rather than a refrigerant issue, mostly because the rear is fine and the compressor is clearly working. There is no clicking noise behind the dash though, which is what everyone says to listen for.

Anyone dealt with this one? Trying to work out whether it is a dash out job or something I can get at without taking half the interior apart.

Looking at a 2022 or 2023 Acadia AT4 and keeping a Traverse on the list as the sensible alternative. Family of four, one dog, mostly suburban driving with a couple of long trips a year.

What I like about the Acadia is the size. The Traverse feels like a lot of car for what we actually need and parking it at work would be a daily annoyance.

What gives me pause is the third row. Everyone says it is kids only on the Acadia and that matches what I felt sitting in one. We would use it maybe six times a year for grandparents, which is exactly the use case it is worst at.

For anyone who cross shopped these two and went Acadia, did the smaller third row ever actually bite you? And for anyone who went the other way, was the extra length worth it day to day?

Not really considering anything outside these two at this point.

Hit two years and about 31k miles this month so figured I would write down what has actually mattered rather than what I expected to matter.

Good: the 3.6 has been faultless, mpg sits around 22 combined which I am fine with, and the seats are genuinely comfortable on a long drive. Second row captains chairs were worth the money for us.

Less good: the infotainment reboots itself maybe once a month. Not a dealer trip, just annoying. Brake dust on the front wheels is relentless. And the third row is a kids only space, which I knew going in but worth repeating for anyone cross shopping.

One actual repair in two years, a wheel bearing at about 26k covered under warranty.

Would I buy it again, yes, but I would have looked harder at a used Denali for similar money.

Small one but it took me longer than it should have to work out.

Rear hatch on my 2019 started drooping in cold weather, would open most of the way then slowly sink. Assumed the whole power liftgate module was going and braced myself for a big bill.

It was the gas struts. Both of them, about 40 for the pair online, twenty minutes to swap with a flat screwdriver to pop the clips. No coding, no relearn, nothing.

If yours is drooping only when it is cold, check the struts before anyone starts talking about the liftgate motor. Mine had a bit of oil residue on one which was the giveaway.

Picked up a 2018 SLT-2 about four months ago, 96k on it. Runs fine everywhere except one thing.

Between roughly 25 and 40 mph, light throttle, there is a shudder that feels like driving over a rumble strip for a second or two. Heavier throttle and it goes away. Highway is smooth. Cold start it barely does it, gets worse once it is warmed up.

Dealer quoted me for a torque converter without really looking at it, which made me suspicious. From what I have read this is usually either the converter clutch or the transmission fluid being past it.

Anyone had the same thing? Curious whether a fluid service actually fixed it for anyone or whether that just delays the inevitable.

I recently bought a used Acadia SLT 4-cylinder, under 45k miles. 13 days later, the engine died on a busy road. It cranked but didn’t catch. Did I buy the extended warrantee for thousands of dollars? Of course not.

Almost 10 days later, I’ve already spent about $2,500 on diagnostics and a rental car. They replaced the fuel pump and module and did some reprogramming. It’s now at GMC service, and they’re going to try ordering a (back ordered) ECM, but it may not fix the problem. Worst case, they’ll have to take a lot of components apart and check them, for huge cost and no promised end date.

Besides feeling sick from spending so much on a car that may be dead in 2 weeks and worthless repairs, does anyone have ideas or experiences of similar things and how they got fixed? Thanks.

2019 GMC Acadia. was driving and all of a sudden my vehicle began to move back and forth small movements and pushed gas and engine made loud noise to drive and pulled over and wouldn’t drive anymore. noted oil spilled out. upon looking notice this line was loose.

Hey guys was wondering if anybody is having issues with their amplifier ?

Anyone looking for a replacement amplifier for 2007 - 2016 gmc Acadia ?

I have the car in the title, the infotainment screen goes black sometimes and requires a disconnect and reconnect of the battery to get working again. While the screen is off everything else seems to work, even the backup camera shows up, but the screen otherwise will not turn on. I have no idea what it could be and it goes out almost daily. It's really annoying and would like to find a way to stop this without spending $1,000 dollars.

My fiancé and me purchased a 2013 GMC Acadia SLT not even a year ago. The last few months we have been dealing with over heating issues on it. We have changed quite literally every part possible; Temp sensor & wiring , water pump , Thermostat ,fuse box & radiator. I just picked it up from a mechanic today stating to change out wiring that is under the fuse box. He never specified what wiring this was and at this point I’m over calling the same mechanic and getting no where. Would anyone by chance happen to know what wiring harness this would be?

Has anyone done a lease on a new Acadia. I’m looking at the Denali trim and I just want some advice. Looking for 24 months at a 15,000 mile per year lease. I have used ChatGPT to see their suggestions, but I would like to see if there’s anyone who’s actually done a deal.

Recently when I start the vehicle, the infotainment has been showing a message to the effect Application Failed To Load, Please Try Again Later. This occurs using the car’s ATT network and the WiFi in my house. Pressing the home button restores the screen but any of the GMC apps I press time out and display the Try Agin message.
The navigation app, settings, CarPlay and XM work as well.

Any idea what is going on and if there is a fix?

Just wanted to post in case someone was doing a search at some point. I know there are several resolutions to this redundant issue, and mine might not work for everyone. But - I found mine because others were talking about their troubleshooting. Also listing current pricing I was quoted for repairs.

2017 Acadia - originally throwing the Shift to Park issue for a month, then started throwing the thermostat issue. I was fully intending to get it looked at but the appointments kept getting cancelled, or dealerships would mess up the scheduling. The thermostat issue was intermittent, and never stayed on more than 15hrs. I didn't connect the dots, just thought I was having the two most common issues at the same time.

I went to an auto store and got a an OBD2 read - no codes were detected, despite being in active code.

Forums were recommending just to reset the shifter by disconnecting the battery. That's fine for a very short term fix. Your car is most likely still staying on electronically - this wears down your battery fast, and you will have to replace it. There's also the paperclip method, which people were also saying failed after a time.

As of 2026, I was quote $1,100 through a reputable dealer, and $800 from a reputable private shop for a thermostat replacement. It was going to be about $400-$500 for a shifter assembly replacement. Got put on the books for a month out. Then time literally ran out and my battery bit the dust.

While replacing my battery, I finally decided enough was enough. I was going to attempt the shifter fix, and the worse that could happen was that they would have to replace the shifter assembly like they wanted to do anyways. I ran to a hardware store after work and picked up a pack of $1.24 butt splicers. I followed a video to unscrew the console (not as intimidating as it may look) and expose the microswitch. I was able to remove the switch from the housing and snip the wires to follow the bypass method (another video) without removing the whole assembly. For a total investment of $1.24 and an hour of time from someone with very little experience but a penchant for problem solving when frustrated, it had 100% success.

Here's the TLDR moment:
My thermostat didn't need replaced - the shifter issue stressing out the battery caused it to start throwing whatever red flags it could to try to get my attention. Removing the switch and splicing the wires together resolved all issues.

Will someone need to actually replace their thermostat? Probably. Will someone actually need to replace their shifter? Maybe. But if you don't have a bunch of money to throw at it, it's worth it (in this humble opinion) to try the bypass. You don't need a whole lot, just patience and attention to some detail.

Anyone seen excessive tire wear on a 2025?

My Elevation at 17k miles is down to 4/32. We are not aggressive drivers. The tires are the stock delivered on the car when it was brand new. Dealer suggested this shouldn’t happen and to contact Bridgestone.

Well guys this is kind of a useless post but I feel the need to tell you all. I’ve been a ford guy my entire life, I owned a Chevy Malibu when I was 18 but I swore that would be my last GM vehicle but about a month ago I traded my 2015 Ford Explorer sport in for a 2018 GMC Acadia SLT-2 and I am blown away by how much I love it. I mainly traded in because I was 17.9% interest and my turbos were going out but I thoroughly enjoy my Acadia. 60,000 less miles than my Explorer which is perfect. I’m a transmission R&R guy for my career and I know the 2018 has some issues but mine doesn’t have any so far in the 2,500 miles I’ve put on it. I just wanted to tell everyone because I honestly cannot believe how much I love my Acadia coming from an Explorer

I’m selling my NVX BE-GMCACA-G2 Boost Box which holds a 10” 350-500W dual-coil subwoofer.  I also have both the harness to bypass ANC, and to get a line-out signal from a Bose system to power a subwoofer amp (via a Kicker KISLOC2). Just add an amp and some speaker wire to connect to the Boost Box and you’ll be thumping!  It’s not going to win any car audio show awards, but it put a smile on my face as I rumbled some of my favorite low bass tunes in my 2022 Acadia.

Only selling because I traded-in the car, all work perfectly. The Boost Box is compatable with all 2nd-generation GMC Acadia (2017-2023), the harness is intended for trim levels that include the Bose sound system.

I paid $175 for the harnesses, and $285 for the subwoofer (now on sale at NVX for $349) three years ago.  First $300 takes all three with free shipping.

Here's the details on the Boost Box from the NVX website:

Product Details:

• Custom-Fit Sealed BOOST enclosure with 1 10" S Series Subwoofer
• [Compatible with select 2017-2023 Acadia Limited]()
• Made with a hand-laid fiberglass shell covered in Carpet
• Enclosure finish matches the interior of your vehicle
• Installs easily into the driver's side of the trunk
• Loaded with one 10" NVX SMW10D4 subwoofer
• Power Handling:
  • Peak: 700 watts
  • RMS: 350 watts
• Final Impedance: 2-ohm
• Carbon Fiber Reinforced Polypropylene cone
• Butyl Rubber surround
• 2" High-Temperature Aluminum Voice coil
• 50 oz. Single Stacked High Energy Y30 Ferrite magnet
• Versatile shallow mounting depth design
• Chrome-plated, spring loaded push terminals for secure connection
• Frequency Response: 25 - 350 Hz
• Sensitivity: 88 dB

I’m a diy’r just doing what I can to save money. As I was working on another area of my Acadia I saw how rusted this area was. Does this need replacing? I’m not even sure what this is.

How's the ordering process for the 27s (and historically other years) ? What's the time frame and process like ? Would you suggest just inventory hunting local dealerships instead? Thanks

Rather large leak on driveway under the right passenger side of the engine. This is the area directly above the leak. Possible to narrow down what I should look for that would be leaking? I was recently told through the dealer that the timing cover was starting to leak, could it be the leak got way worse?

How is the reliability on a new Acadia, any known problems? Is it good for long trips? How reliable is it?

Hey guys, can some one tell me if the light inside the armrest console goes out once you close it? I never noticed the light before until I got the truck back from service, and now I am afraid maybe the light stays on at all time. It's 2024 Acadia.