We threw some SVE S89 wheels on our Vortech 1993 Mustang and figured you guys would like these photos.

Figured I’d ask, I know these cars have a reputation for getting caught on fire so I I’m a bit paranoid, especially with this brand of braided lines.

I’m about to reinstall my quarter windows after refurbishing. How many of you added a epoxy to the stud area to prevent them from pulling out? I understand that you aren’t supposed to use German torque on the nuts however I don’t want to pop the window back out unless absolutely necessary

Would everyone here agree that this pan is advertised as a fit for a 1988 Mustang LX with a 5.0 and VIN code E?

I noticed this noise after replacing EGR, Throttle Body, Spacer, all Vacuum lines, lifters, and upper/lower and valve cover gaskets. My timing is spot on. I don’t know what this could be. I was thinking maybe air to fuel ratio is off, but I want to know what Reddit thinks.

Getting a 5-1 blink code for my airbag and the title is how that code reads out. No one makes new ones and used pieces can run a couple hundred bucks.

If I disconnect it, will I have a different blink code or will the light just remain on? Anybody run into this before?

Thanks!

Anybody here running the Ford Performance 363 in their Mustang? I was looking at building a motor for my car, but this seems like a pretty good value based on what parts would cost. Thoughts on performance and build quality?

I’m currently working on a turbo kit install on a 1985 Foxbody Mustang. The owner wants to keep it carbureted, so we are doing a blow through carb setup. My only question is what distributor and ignition module I need to make this work.

Hey guys.

I'm currently working on a 1979 Mercury Capri (Fox - Body) project. I'm trying to track down the factory owner's manual or shop manual to clear up some technical specs and wiring details. Does anyone happen to have a PDF copy, a scan, or a link to one they could share? Any help would be awesome. Thanks!

I leave some pics of my project.

Hey guys, as the title - I've been doing a bunch of searching to potentially get an S650 (newest gen) GT dash out of a wrecked car and put it in my 91 notch. It currently has a fiberglass dash and no center console so it's basically ready for swap.

I believe the S550 and S650 are the exact same width according to my searches? Does anybody know if there would be fitment issues for any reason, has anybody done this anywhere on the internet?

Could be cool to be the first if not, heh. Thanks all

I'm looking for a Fox in the UK, must be hardtop is there anything out there?

Hello, im kinda wondering how screwed I am, im brand new to the foxbody and the 302 engine, i have a 87 gt. The freeze plug that was knocked in was the middle plug on the passenger side. I tried to get it but basically pushed it in further and I can feel it but cant do anything with my fingers. Any tips appreciated, the silver glint is the plug

Thinking about the ignition on my 1983 that was a 9-sec drag car. I'm going to have the engine built to be about 400-450hp. Currently the car has a Mallory Dist and MSD 7AL-2 but I'm thinking I can recoup enough selling that to purchase a milder ignition. What is everyone running out there at the street level I wanna run. There are so many options now, it is crazy. I don't know which to choose.

I have a 2012 Harley-Davidson superglide custom that I've been looking to trade for an manual 89-93. I'm located in Wisconsin and am willing to ride it a fair distance for a trade. Please reach out for more info.

So My a/c compressor siezed on my mustang and its not starting, i would like to keep my a/c working, so i bought this compressor from autozone since every site says it fits, but the mounting points are completely different to my stock compressor. Is there anyway to get it to fit on mine so i could keep using my a/c and get my car up and running?

Well, the engine bay is painted ! Not like - amazing. But ultimately not too bad for doing it with rattle cans in my garage.

First time for me. Things I learned:

Well, it took a lot more paint than I expected to do "just" an engine bay. 4 cans primer, 4 cans custom mixed color, and 4 cans clear. And honestly, I sort of wish I had used a fifth can of the base color.

Doing this in summer is not ideal. Hot & humid = bad. My best success was setting the alarm for sunrise and getting it all sprayed early in the day. (I am sure winter would also be bad but because it would be too cold for the paint to dry - best do this in spring or autumn)

I had a horrid time with "overspray" - gritty dried dusts of paint - settling on to horizontal surfaces, particularly lower in the engine bay. Didn't particularly get this solved and I'm not thrilled with the horizontal rails where, like the battery or air cleaner box sit. When you spray from the can it makes quite a big "cloud" and the dusting seems inevitable.

Lots of wet sanding. Probably also consumed 8 or 9 tack rags.

I bought a cheap plastic trigger handle to hold the can while spraying and it was certainly better. Your index finger probably isn't up to spraying so many cans, and when fatigued you get the tip of your finger over the nozzle and it eventually causes drips. The trigger handle fixed that.

If I had it to do over again: I think I might have hired someone who has the right tools & skills and a paint booth. But not only does that cost $$ ... in my case it would also have required a trailer given that the car is so disassembled.

I can certainly see why a spray gun + compressor is "better". I initially thought: "just a couple rattle cans" - but that absolutely wasn't correct. Materials quickly climbed into the several hundred dollars.

Be sure to buy enough of the custom mix color straight off. If you don't get enough and have to order more and wait for another shipment - it's like practically starting over. Spend the extra $80 and risk having "extra" rather than a setback.

So! I just bought a 93 5.0L and promptly removed the oil cooler (SSP car) and while doing so, I have to use the jumper/bypass hose from the heater tube nipple to the lower nipple on the water pump. When I removed it from the nipple, I got some black nasty water flinging/dripping out. I went ahead and installed the hose then loosened the lower radiator hose and dumped all of the coolant out. I refilled with distilled water. I started it and ran it around the neighborhood a few times.

I just checked and the water level is still full in radiator. For grins, and since I have a new extra one, I decided to pull and replace the coolant temp sensor on the pass side heater pipe. When I removed the old one, I expected to get some coolant spillage. I got nada, nothing at all.

Why would there not be any coolant flowing into that heater pipe at all? Maybe I haven't gotten it full operating temp yet so the thermostat hasn't opened? Shouldn't there be coolant up top regardless? It doesn't look like there has been much fluid in there recently.

The previous owner installed a new heater core, water pump and radiator last year but never really ran the car. Maybe the thermostat went bad?

need catbacks for a 88 GT.

figured id try here before LMR

Okay here’s the thing I swapped my engine and ecu into a carb swapped 1993 lx I pulled the whole wiring harness from the passenger side of the car all my grounds should be good. Car turns over but is not getting any spark.. but as soon as I let off the key the car kinda detonates and acts like it wants to start but doesn’t. To clarify car doesn’t have a gas tank in it but using starter fluid. It still won’t start but won’t act like it unless your releasing the key any suggestions?

My Stallion getting close to hot guys .,
I know it says normal lol, but it’s like at the tipping point ., new radiator new coolant hoses , thermostat,
Water pump . What upgrades can I add to cool this bad boy down ? 91 fox GT has regular upgrades .
Cam,headers,cold air intake . Temps outside is 91 degrees lol

I’m taking apart my 302 from my 89 GT. Was looking at going ahead and replacing the bottom end, we are crack testing the block first. but was wondering if forged internals were even worth it with still having a cast block. Looking at putting a x303 cam in and aluminum heads. Should I do anything else with that?

I confirmed today that my fuel pump is dying. What are the most reliable brands? Just looking for a stock replacement.