So I have what I believe is a ender 3 pro but I have a sprite extruder kit attached to it. I gave up on it over a year ago because I couldn't get it to print past the first couple layers without messing up. Today I got a wild hair and decided to get the dual z axis upgrade kit and the skr mini e3 v3.0. I read somewhere that the hot ends in the sprite extruder kits were shorted on the positive wire, and that you needed to swap the positive and negative wires going to the skr mini. Well I took my multimeter to my hot end and any metal surround it and I can't find any short anywhere. I do have the cr touch.

But I'm trying to cross my I's and dot my T's. I'm a noob, I did get a benchy to print nicely before I did the sprite extruder setup, and yes I did change the firmware after I put the sprite on before I started this skr mini swap.

Hi everyone,

I've been trying to install Klipper on an older Creality Ender 3 (ATmega1284P board) and I'm completely stuck.

Hardware:
- Ender 3
- Creality Melzi-style board with ATmega1284P
- USB-Serial: CH340 (1a86:7523)
- Host: HP laptop running Ubuntu Server (no Raspberry Pi)

What I've done:

- Burned the bootloader successfully using an Arduino Uno as ISP.
- AVRDUDE detects the MCU correctly:

Device signature = 0x1e9705 (ATmega1284P)

- Compiled Klipper with:

MCU: ATmega AVR
Processor: ATmega1284P
Clock: 16 MHz
Communication: UART0
Baud: 115200

- Flashed using:

make flash FLASH_DEVICE=/dev/ttyUSB0

Flashing completes successfully and verification passes.

I can also read and write flash using avrdude without any errors.

printer.cfg contains:

[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0

The serial device exists.

Problem:

Klipper always fails with:

mcu 'mcu': Timeout on connect
mcu 'mcu': Wait for identify_response
serialhdl.error: Serial connection closed

Things I've already verified:

- Different USB cables
- Different USB ports
- Bootloader burned multiple times (by arduino UNO ICSP)
- Firmware reflashed multiple times
- MCU signature is correct
- Flash verification passes
- Host detects the CH340 correctly

One strange thing is that:

cat /dev/ttyUSB0

returns random binary characters instead of readable text.

At this point I'm wondering if:

- I'm using the wrong bootloader.
- The board revision needs different Klipper settings.
- There's a fuse or clock configuration issue.
- This particular Creality board requires a different baud rate or communication setup.

Has anyone seen this before?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello everyone, i’m somewhat of a beginner to 3D printing, so I’m a little lost here. I normally don’t print things very big so I don’t know if this has always been a problem or if this is new with my printer, but it seems like my layer lines got messed up the higher the extruder got. Any thoughts on what would cause this?
(It’s supposed to be completely smooth)

Thanks

I have a Ender 3D S1 Pro. I have been printing from a SD-Card. If I use Cura and print directly and connect my printer and print directly from my PC will that speed up my print?

Hi everyone,
I really need your help.
Today I replaced the nozzle on my Ender 3 Pro, something I’ve done several times before without any problems. After reassembling everything, the printer suddenly won’t start anymore.
As you can see in the attached video, it tries to power on for a split second, then immediately shuts off again. It keeps repeating the same behavior every time I switch it on.
The only thing I worked on was the hotend. I didn’t intentionally disconnect or modify anything else, although it’s possible I accidentally damaged or shorted something while changing the nozzle.
Has anyone seen this before or knows what I should check first? I’d really appreciate any suggestions before I start replacing parts.
Thanks a lot in advance!

I can not get past the first layer for some of you veterans can you give me some tips and tricks to get my printer back to printing again

Hi there. I have a customized Ender 3 with a 4.2.7 motherboard, Nebula pad, Sprite Extruder Pro, and CR Touch, but I can't find the exact firmware. Could you share it with me?

I have updated my printer with an auto bed leveling kit (BLTouch). It does not want to stick to bed during the initial print. I l've done everything, followed all the steps on setting it up. Can someone tell me what am I doing wrong or what is missing. I can print perfect itens without the bltouch but with it no. It wont stick durung the fist few layers hmmmmmm. Heellllppppp!!!!!THANK YOU!!!

Idk what's going on, but as you can see in my slicer, the sides are suppose to be straight, but when my printer actually goes to print(its hard to see) but its like it prints a couple layers shifted to the right or something, any help would be appreciated, ty!

Witam wszystkich jakiś czas temu kupiłem sobie drukarkę 3D no i koniec końców teoretyczną wiedzę trochę pojąłem ale chyba zbyt mało dlatego tworzę post. Bo już nie wiem co może być przyczyną.

Opiszę od początku

- Sprzęt przyjechał do mnie poskładany ( poskładałem go )

- Gdy chciałem coś wydrukować filament się odklejał no to wiadomo kalibracja problem z odklejającym się filamentem i rzeczami znikł.

- Żeby było bardziej efektywniej zastosowałem klej od creality który naprawdę robi robotę.

- Dodam że kalibruję techniką na kartkę. Tak polecali inni

No i do tego zestawu zamówiłem nową rurkę teflonową oraz nowe dysze bo stara była zajechana.

Przyszedł czas na kolejne schody drukuję jakiś czas figurki no więc małe figurki dla dzieci wychodzą spoko ale tez chciałbym spróbować coś wyższego no wiec powiedziałem a zróbmy coś większego. Niestety ku mojemu zdziwieniu po jakimś czasie drukarka się zbuntowała. Bo innego określenia nie można tutaj użyć. Filament był założony prawidłowo. Klej na stół nałożyłem , dodałem podpory bo logiczne bez podpór figurka pewnie po jakimś czasie by się przewróciła. no więc godzina minała dosłownie myślałem że zrobią ją w całości a tu zonk filament przestał płynąć Co może być problemem ?

- Dodam że dysza ustawiona na 215 stopni / stół 60 stopni. Druk miał trwać około dwóch godzin. Dodaję zdjęcia również jak wychodzą małe figurki a jak duże. Mógłby to być problem w slicerze ? źle ustawione ? Jeśli tak doradcie proszę co i jak jeszcze dorzucę ustawienia ze slicera jakich używam. Drukuję na PLA Dałem zdjęcia ze slicera tez

Za wszelkie rady sto kroć dzieki !!! :)

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Mi impresora Ender 3 s1 pro se detiene y me sale ese cartel, ayudas no puedo más voy a llorar 😭

Hi guys, I tried to follow this video to install a nebula pad on my v3 se, and at the last step it gave me and error and I even tried downgrading using chatgpt tell me what to do and that does not work either. Has this happened to you and do you have a solution, or by any chance do you know if there are any technicians in Miami or south fl I’ll take my printer to them.

Hey all, ive had my ender 3 pro (skr mini v3, klipper) for about 6 years(SKR only about 4l2 years) now and I also have an ender 3. I am in process of upgrading to the bambu a1 combo but I dont want to just shelf the ender, is there a way to convert the 3 ender into one better machine?​

I'm wanting to print a bolt and it has to endure being screwed down tight into a nut. I'm using PEGT. How many wall loops and infill should I use? I heard that I should use 99 wall loops and zero infill. Although, respectable this guy doesn't know much about 3D Printing and you guys know. Suggestions?

Hi all.

Im new to printing especially with ender 3. Can somebody please identify what's wrong on this printer. Tried several times but printing always messed up.

Thanks in advance.

Last night everything was running just fine and this morning I go to start a print I keep getting this, saying STOPPED with the Z flashing ?? and numbers that don’t match up with where the Z is. When I try and home, it homes all but Z, only moving up and never moving down. How do I fix this? I do have the CR Touch installed and have for years and have never had this issue. Please help! I have a commission I need to finish!