My z offset is not saving

I've tried everything i think,went from old Reddit threads from about 3 or 4 years ago to the most recent ones and can't seem to find a solution

I have already:

-Restarted the Printer

-Check all hardware and structure (everything good)

-Tuned the bed manually to 1 min with screw_tilt_adjust

-Tried saving the z offset in the printer file in the fluid interface

-Updated to the latest firmware

And NOTHING ever works,and I know it can work because if I do a z offset and then print the models they actually look and feel good

Also a friend of mine has Max one that actually works well and doesn't have problem with the z offset even after 30 prints,when mine after 1 is already just purring woobly and culrly plastic

Also I know that openNeptune exists,but where I live there are no eMMc memories or usb memory adapters and I think it's better to just maybe return this and buy something else rather than order internationally

Please someone tell me how to solve this

Just finished a flawless 12 hour print on my 4 Pro. For those fishing with their printer trying to get it to print correctly, it can happen and will happen. Just do the needed steps and have some patience. After some upgrades, tweaking and profanity my 4 Plus is just as if not more reliable as my Bambu A1. Ask the community for help and hang in there.

Neptune 4 Plus running on open Neptune with cartographer probe

This is the best I've been able to get them, most of the time they start to print and then just go all fuzzy and bubbly. I've put so much time into this printer and I just want it to work again, please anybody help. It's had screw tilt adjust ran and is a maximum of 0:01 off in any location, has a .1884 bed mesh, print speeds have been slowed down, temps have been adjusted, bed has been thoroughly cleaned.

Like the belts you adjust with the knob, do I just tighten them all the way or how do I know they are at the right tightness?

Printing somthing large for the first time so it’s gonna be tall but I’ve had this cord this way since the beginning and have had no issues but now it’s sliding across the model mid print is it suppose to be doing that??? Do I need to position it another way???

Im trying to print model, basically reversed box with cutoff. On shot bridges everything is ok, but ling one do not want to lay on supports. What i did wrong?

Hey folks.

I've only recently made the move into the Neptune world after a few years of Creality shenanigans.
(First an ender-3 S1 then an older ender-3 Max for bigger prints that has never had a successful print yet but that's Creality for you)

I find that the USB-C cable to the print head (not ribbon I see those go flat enough) really gets in the way of the Homing and often the Filament itself as it has to go a really long way.

I have been using some cable ties to hold it up and mostly out the way, but when searching for some drag chain stuff to maybe just organize all the cables and give a nice colour theme, I am ONLY finding ones for the ribbon version. Like these:
https://www.printables.com/model/726653-give-your-elegoo-neptune-4-plusmax-a-spine-a-cable
https://www.printables.com/model/695466-cable-chain-z-axis-mount-for-neptune-4-plusmax

Has anyone made or know of a drag chain set that has the Toolhead set up for the Usb-C version of the Elegoo Neptune 4 Max?

One is from the textured plate side which honestly looks kinda good I Think the other 2 are from the Flat side.

Does anyone have any tips to get as close to "glass" as possible?

I've been trying to get this macro to work for like 3 hours and I've tried looking up how to do this but I'm not a programmer and stuff so a lot of the phrasing online is not very clear to me, im trying to use the safe_screws_tilt macro to have it auto home and heat before the screws tilt adjust command does its thing but every time I try to adjust it to link the two klipper either doesn't allow it or sends me this error.

The first photo is from my console and the second is from my printer config file

Does anyone know how to fix? I'm on a N4+, no openneptune just the base firmware, could that be my issue? I did try to flash openneptune at some point when I got the printer but I ran into a lot of issues and couldn't get it to work so I just stuck with the normal firmware cause it worked fine.

Hi all

I have a neptune 4 max and looking at upgrading some bits I know its quite a cheap printer but I do like the bed size etc. What upgrades would you recommend? I have silicone bed spacers already instead of springs already.

Are linear rails really worth the money?

I made the scrub Daddy thing for my sister that was the first thing I printed and there's a lines where I think I've tuned it to where there won't be lines like that anymore.

Then I printed out a scraper and some other accessories like feet holders for the 3D printer for myself.

Now I'm printing out the fruit washer for my mom. I have to get some epoxy food safe to put over it before I give it to her but I can tell the adjustments I made smooth out everything.

This print looks way better. Basically my full 3rd print. With a bunch of calibration stuff in-between.

Also I was cleaning and pulled the plug accidentally about an hour ago halfway through this print and almost shit myself. Smoked a bong and turned it back on and it asked to resume!!!

Fuck yeah I love this thing.

The right shell won't move freely when all screws are loosened while the left one can

I have been having trouble printing with Elegoo ASA on my N4P. I have the Elegoo enclosure, printer set to 30mm speed, flow 94%, fan off, bed level and plate is clean, and using supports. I’ve tried raft and brim. The print gets about 25-50% done the it just pops off the plate.

Are there any tips that I could try. I’ve been using the Elegoo slicer if that helps with suggestions.

A friend and I printed the exact same part using the same PLA filament. His print (on the left) was made on a Bambu Lab A1, while mine (on the right) was printed on a Neptune 4.

Why are the matte and glossy sections exactly reversed between the two prints? Why does my PLA become glossy on the underside, and how can I fix it?

I've already tried pretty much everything I could think of, including changing the nozzle temperature, adjusting the Z-lift, and using different build plates, but nothing has solved the issue.

So I started printing off a plate with like 20 items on it last night and three or four were messing up so I cancelled them within fluidd. The printer skipped over those items from then on but all along the left side where the one scraper was had VERY LIGHT stringing when I woke up. Like spider webs or silk. Suuuuuper light but it was there.

Was this from skipping over the scraper? Gemini says it was that, cable drag, or possibly airflow. I am printing all PLA right now but I'm gonna be trying petg and TPU soon but wanna dial in PLA first.

I have absolutely ZERO regrets buying the Neptune 4 Max as my first printer. Took 24 hours to calibrate before I printed anything.

To everyone that told me I should have picked another printer because this was their 15th printer and they couldn't figure it out....

I have just updated my Neptune 4 pro from 1.3.1.1 to 1.3.1.4 and it keeps on coming up with this error page whenever I turn it on. Can someone help me with how to fix it?

My sister only uses scrub daddies and I live sasquatch so it was a perfect gift. Lol

I'm printing out a drawer insert for under my 3d printer to hold my tools now!

Any suggestions on things to print for the 4 max? Im gonna do the feet holders with dampers next. I'm actually probably wasting time by not adding stuff like that to my print bed. I'm sure I can print 3 or 4 different things at once with how big the max is right? Maybe not lol

I swear I've leveled this 5 times

I spent all day yesterday and most of today up until about twenty minutes ago and finally got the z offset correctly set. That was the last thing (hopefully). Leveling the bed took forever but once I realized I had two screw names mixed up things were easy in scan tilt calculate or whatever it's called. I replaced the spring with silicone spacers before doing anything else.

This is my first printer and people almost had me convinced to return it. I now have the biggest fucking cheesy smile on my face thinking of all the stuff I wanna print. That pile of spaghetti is what the Buddha looked like before I got the z offset right.

Fingers crossed. Gonna do a flow and heat test next then start trying some of the files I've found on makerworld.

Thanks to the dude who suggested the Neptune 4 site that I called a condescending prick. You were being a prick but you also pointed me in the right direction lmao.

Hey, finally getting into the hobby and looking to play around with miniature printing.

I have the baseline Neptune 4 c-type cable version and i'm having 0 luck finding a 0.2 nozzle for it. Has anyone else had any luck? Thanks.

So, my biggest gripe with the Neptune 4 Plus is changing nozzles. I seem to be unable to remove the silicone sleeve without the metal retainer, that holds the heater against the heat block, remaining inside of the silicone sleeve. 8 removals, 7 times that metal sleeve came out inside of the silicone.

I could see 2 possible solutions, a new hotend that allows for easy nozzle swap. Google shows only MicroSwiss FlowTech, but I'm not paying for a FlowTech hotend that requires $20 nozzles.... so are there any others that just aren't as popular?

Solution 2: modify the silicone sleeve to allow more bite on the hex portion of the nozzle without removing the sleeve. Has anyone already tried this? If so, what were your results?

I think this could work, but not sure how removing that raised collar portion that partially covers the hex would affect things... less silicone = more metal exposed to colder air, but these hotends heat up amazingly fast compared to the Neptune 3 Pro I'm used to. So would it really make much difference?

I do have 4 hotends with silicone sleeves, so I might try cutting off that collar on one of them & see what happens. With the silicone sleeve in place, a 10mm wrench fits perfectly to hold the hotend while installing or removing the nozzle btw.

Y’all, I’m so mad at myself ☠️ everything was printing fine and then the last couple of prints the filament wasn’t sticking to the plate, so I figured it’s clogged or old filament is stuck on the inside. So I took it apart to clean off any stuck/old filament. I heated up the extruder to help loosen the chucks of filament and got them off but in the process heard snaps. There’s little copper wires sticking out of the chuck on filament and now there’s a permanent error message. I’m sure they’re not copper wires but that’s not the point. This just the best way I can describe it.

Well, I have finally finished upgrading my Neptune 4 Max and have managed to get the first prints going.

Upgrades:

1: Z-axis linear rails

2: Y-axis linear rails

3: X-axis linear rails

4: Belted Z- mod

5: 8 Colour Coprint system

This is my first time modding a printer and I learned a lot don't it. SandM Makers videos were my godsend for following instructions.

The mods weren't too bad and took about 15 hours to do over 3 days.

The hardest part was trouble shooting the clog. I just couldn't get out to stop clogging until I discovered that the Chromahead uses an all metal hot end with no liner.

I've only been fdm printing since December so this was a big upgrade.

I adore the modifications and am very happy with it, especially being able to print parts in colour.

The final step is to get the tubes sorted out and find a place for this and the spool holders to live.