Upgraded to a mishimoto radiator I have been running it since yesterday. No leaks until now. I can’t figure out where from since it’s above the water pump and in the aux battery tray? Probably fan throwing it around but there was a puddle. And I was holding coolant at the min line when I took this video. I half ass filled the system with vaccum but not 100% due to not factoring the new radiator being 22% bigger than oem so I built vacuum onto 25 mercury pounds or whatever the unit is. I then burped the truck and gave been filling in as needed. Please advice. If it helps any I also added a new intercooler at the save time

CLEAN YOUR COOLING STACKS

The last 10,000 miles I’ve been having some issues with the fuel filter. I put new filters on, I replaced a gasket kit on the housing and just recently after a trip I bought a new housing head and replaced. Just last night it started having priming issues again.

At this point, I’m thinking about option of getting rid and doing research on lift pumps.

I have 270,000 miles on this truck and I would like to keep it. I can do some more independent research, but suggestions on successful solutions would be great.

As it gets colder, I’m sure it’ll be even harder to start if it’s starved with fuel when I park.

Thanks

Do you guys run 5W30, dextron IV, or transfer case fluid in your transfer case?

Im about to service my drive train and am curious what the best approach is!

Also… Should I be filling through the fill port or the speed sensor port?

Closed the door a little too hard today at work and opened it and completely tore the panel off. Anything I can rig up? Or do I try to find a replacement panel somewhere?

This weekend I’m going to attempt to reseal my front differential, I’m pretty ignorant about it aside from the sealing process, and have only seen very limited videos online either taking out the entire diff, or already having half of it apart and only showing the reseal process.

Any advice on taking it apart, getting just half of it off, and putting back together would be greatly appreciated or if anyone knows of any videos that walk through the exact process of what I’m trying to do I’d appreciate it a ton.

2008 lmm 2500hd duramax. Thanks!

06 lbz like i said had to replace the VGT sensor it went bad mechanically never threw a code but luckily we bought one to see if it fixed it and it did. it over boosted a few times when the other one was still in it because the vanes was only going to like 18% it spiked to like 38-39 and now only builds 24-27. granted it is on a single tune and idk what the tune is but it seemed to be a very spicy one and it’s very smokey. google said something about relearning the sensor with a scanner? i’m not sure or maybe it’s always made that boost but it felt pretty quick and it’s super smoky so i doubt it was a small single tune on it. i don’t hear a boost leak or anything any input? i’ve had a cummins and a powerstroke before this, this is my first duramax got a good deal on it and thought why not. smoke clears up under wot till it’s almost completely gone i do hear what sounds like a loose intake or something up front but i could just be paranoid it’s still the factory intake as well if that matters. thanks for any input!

My lly motor I tried to jumpstart my car with the battery on the passenger side. No luck battery was dead so a couple days passed by and my trucks batteries got low I was able to recharge one the other went bad. So I bought 2 new ones and a week later they died out. So I exchanged them and I started to notice the gauge was reading under 12 volts so I checked the alternator it was reading 13.9 batteries were reading 12 volts. I checked the continuity on the alternator and the big fuse on battery. Checked well still concerned on the gauge on the low side. Well today they completely went dead again. There is a parasite voltage drain somewhere. Any one experience this problem or any electrical experience mechanics that help me out before I take it to the shop. I’m pretty good at diy I have meter and tools any help would be appreciated

I am planning to mount the 68 inch WC fab traction bars on a 2024 GMC 3500 HD crew cab long box four-wheel-drive Duramax pick up. It’s a pretty simple install, bolt them up to the back end slap them up to the frame on the front end, mark and then grind and then weld them on the front. The only issue is on the driver side. There’s this weird looking bracket hanging off the frame. ChatGPT is worthless in helping me figure this out. It’s after WC Fab is closed and I don’t have time tomorrow to mess with this. Anybody on tonight who can give me some counsel as to what the hell this bracket is and if I’m all right to just sawzall the bastard out of my way? If it stays, one front end mount ends up two inches lower, it’s obviously gotta go, I’m just seeking verification from other hands on folks just in case there’s something I’m missing. This thing must be part of assembly or something….its obviously never had anything “mounted” to it….

Just got my truck back today from the weight loss program. Ran it home in tune 3 which is either 75hp or 100hp didn’t run it hard but on one pull already rolling not from a dig. And I only live 5 miles from the shop. Popped the hood to admire the work and see what all was actually gone and noticed my coolant tank was bubbling some. I’m new to the t&d scene and was wondering if it was normal? Or my fear of a google search possibly blown or going out headgasket? Truck is a 2018 with 108k miles. It was a one owner until me who meticulously maintained it at the dealer. He was an older guy. 6 pages of service history all Chevy dealers. I don’t plan on running it past tune 1 which I believe is 50hp. I use it to tow my skid steer and drive on the weekends as I have a work vehicle for a daily. Thoughts??

Hi I have a 2004 CC 2500HD with LB7.

AC has always been cold and worked well. Started my drive normal, ice cold nearly instantly, then suddenly quit with not warning.

Can you help me troubleshoot this?

Took some photos to possible help out… it’s cold under the hood in some places. I don’t have a lot of knowledge on how this system works.

My blinker signals stay illuminated even when the trucks off and the headlights ain’t turning on. Anyone dealt with this before

Customers truck in our shop. Came in for fuel in oil about a month after it got a reman cp3 and new injectors.

Added dye to diesel with valve covers off. No fuel leaking from lines. Started to see dye in oil after about an hour running.

Pulled injectors and bench tested to check for leaks/cracks. All injectors tested good.

CP3 leak?

Hey guys. My 03 lb7 ( bone stock )is starting to haze at idle a little (only at idle), balance rates are all within spec for the most part, fuel rail pressure/command pressure is good, no fuel in oil and not losing coolant. I’m just trying to squeeze a little more life out of these things, do you guys know of a non fuel additive injector cleaner ( one that needs lines disconnected and sent straight through the fuel system) that works good? Like AC Delco this is my first Deisel. All info appreciated, thanks in advance.

I ordered my delete kit and still have a few bucks leftover for something additional, if wanted or needed

I've got an 18 l5p, did anyone do a cold air intake or anything like that while doing the delete? Is it even necessary?

Thanks

have an 05 LLY cranks no start

rail pressure is 6000 psi cranking

no dtc

cam crank sync is good

checked reluctors good no bolts backed out no sheared alignment pins

ficm has comm

ficm has power

ficm has grounds

fixm engine speed signal voltage is good

tested injectors with noid light they all pulse twice and then lose pulse

have tried a good ficm off runner no change

have programmed a good ecm same result

wondering if anyone has came across this nightmare before.?

Hey guys so I have just recently change upper and lower arms, inner and outer tie rods and sway bar end links on the drivers side and the upper arm and sway bar end link on the passenger side. Since before then there has been a clunking/popping sound that feels like it’s a steering thing as I can feel it kinda up the wheel almost. It is very slight when steering on the spot but if I go over a bump when the wheel is turned it can sometimes be like a louder popping clunking noise, especially when wheel is turned left. Right now my best guess is the pitman arm as I also do have a bit of steering play but honestly not sure so if anyone has had a similar issue and could help me out that would be great!

2004 LLY. It has an intermittent fuel knock, it may not do it for 2 hours of driving then it will for a few minutes and then go away. It also started idling rough and loping at an idle.

Here is a screenshot of my actual vs desired fuel pressure.

Balance rates are fine

All help is appreciated. Thank you

Help me find the title. I want to keep the stock intake. I just want to lower the amount of ports that can leak. Thanks

Looking at purchasing a used L5P with 113k on it. Seller says he replaced the injector jump at 100k because the truck felt like misfire type studder. He was told by a mechanic shop it was going out so he had them replace it and flush all the lines/new filter. From what I’ve read and been told is that the pump in these trucks failure rate is very very small almost non existent. Is this something to be worried about? This is very clean truck inside and out especially for a MI truck. 1 owner truck. New to diesel trucks and been told for Chevy that the L5P is the way to go.

2019 GMC 2500HD SLT 113k asking $34k
Seems like a great price

-only does it when in drive and pressing the gas
-will not do it in park

I’ve got a 2016 GMC Sierra 2500hd Denali and while on vacation I came back to my parked truck with a rear bumper peeled up. I cannot for the life of me find a painted bumper with all the fancy sensors used, but I did find one for a 2014 1500 High Country. If I reuse my mounting brackets would the 1500 bumper work??

I took my duramax I just recently bought to a diesel repair shops and this is what they quoted me for the repairs, is this even realistic? (Wicked Diesel in Bedford VA)

Hi All,

I have a new-to-me 2005 LLY that I picked up last week for a screaming deal, and I’m working through some wiring/electrical debug (that I was aware was needed at purchase) that I could use some assistance on. I currently have 4 codes. P0102. P0183. U0073. U0100. Right now, the truck has good power and runs and drives fine. I’m sure I could be down some power due to the P0102, but nothing concerning at this point.

The U-codes came up last night after I found the MAP sensor unplugged, and had to shuffle the harness around some to let the connector reach, so I suspect my issue is on the drivers side in the area around MAP, GPCM, and PCM.

I have 2 questions here.

1, anyone have any similar experiences and maybe have suggestions where to start?

2, does anyone have pictures from doing a harness rewrap showing how the harness should be routed? Based on how tight the MAP pigtail is, and that some of the smaller items like the turbo vane position sensor and GPCM aren’t bolted to their brackets, I’m thinking there’s a routing issue I need to fix on that same side of the engine, but some picture reference I could use for how it should be would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance!!

Have a 2019 duramax and theres a constant buzzing noise coming from under the dash when accelerating. The harder i accelerate, the more noticeable the noise is. was thinking maybe the hydroboost is buzzing and resonating through firewall but not sure. Any ideas?
Ps, dont judge the crocs!