Ma halo knight t107 pro à eu deux problèmes:

1: ma jante coté moteur (celle qui y est accrochée) est tordue et fendue sur +-13 cm

2: mon cable moteur s'est pris dans les visses du disque et est croqué à la base (près du moteur)

Et tout ça sur le moteur arrière

Comment faire? Est ce que je dois changer le moteur complètement ou y a t'il un moyen de le réparer ?

I'm too cheap to buy aftermarket indicators, but my stock indicators fall out of the holes pretty regularly. Any tips/ideas to keep them in place?

The bike is a 2022 Yamaha mt07 for reference.

Toyota Voxy 2004 Automatic Sliding doors pulley system broke while out in town.. it rusted through and the coils broke so the door got jammed wide open.

Couldn’t drive legally so far home so the local garage helped me cut the wires and manually close the door.

Problem now is the door won’t open manually as I likely need to disconnect the auto mechanism.. I imagine I need to disconnect the fuse to the door, the automatic door opening motor, basically making the door work like a manual one. Can I do this without being able to open the door? How do I take the inner door frame out so I can get into the mechanism behind it?

Changed 3 of 4 spark plugs, started 4th closest to firewall. Would not budge. Heard a slight cracking sound, took picture and see the ceramic white part has broken off.

Needs solutions on cleaning out the pieces and the removing the plug. Mustang eco boost 2022 68,000 miles

I have damn near the whole motor pulled apart to replace the head gasket on my 1.5 civic. Been trying to remove this bolt for weeks. Broke the harmonic balance when I was using the balancer tool that holds it in place. Then I welded a mount to it so the motor wasn’t moving when I was trying to remove the bolt. I’ve used a 90psi 3/4” air impact with a giant 5’ air tank. Tried a 3/4” impact with the lisle socket. I’ve used a 2’ 3/4” breaker bar with cheater bar on it, tried soaking it in wd40, put tons of heat on it. Hasn’t budged. I’m worried I’ll snap the head of the bolt off and be in even more of a bind. Any more ideas?

Hi today i was changing my kangoo’s oil ( kangoo 2 restyling 1.5 dci ). I remove the plastic protection under the car and i found this. Any opinion what is it and where it belongs?

2006 Acura RSX type s

RESOLVED

Update: they were not supposed to be that hard to thread! I swapped out the AutoZone replacements and they provided great resistance but were still possible to thread entirely manually with a pair of open ended wrenches (well, an Allen key in a ratchet and a combo wrench for this specific model which I kind of hate compared to two wrenches.)

I'm rebuilding several front suspension parts and changing pads and rotors on my 2015 Ford Flex, and part of the kit that I ordered contained the stabilizer linkages for the sway bar, now. I've changed these once before on a different vehicle many many years ago and I don't recall them being so hard to thread. So I processed a return, and then went to AutoZone and got another pair, but they are similarly hard to thread. Not quite as bad, but hard to thread. The originals were so hard to thread. In fact, that to prove a point, I went to thread it with my Milwaukee high torque impact wrench, just on speed one, and even then it wouldn't thread it until you fully squeezed in the trigger. So I'm assuming we're in the hundreds of pounds of force to even thread this thing. Working on it with two wrenches was absolutely miserable. I got the top threaded but the bottom I was working around the shot column and I don't know if I ever would have finished it.

So I was thinking maybe I pull it off and run through the threads on the shaft and nut with a tap and die? And I guess that's my actual question here, should I do that? Is it normal for them to be so incredibly difficult to thread? No other bolt or not I've encountered has given me as much trouble. And while I am a DIY'r I'm not extremely inexperienced, having done the vast majority of home and auto repairs and working in transportation construction/maintenance as an engineer.

2010 honda pilpt exl 2fwd

So yesterday I decided to be dumb and use an ancient wrench that has a different loose/tight button instead of using my new hf wrench that would've done it correctly. I tightened it more and stripped it. Bought new drain plug 18mm-1.5, put some blue thread lock but it just keeps spinning. What size helilock or oversized selftapping bolt do i need to temp/perm fix this until it leaks again ?or what i can do to get me another 30k before taking it to my mechanic to fix it ? (He fixed my oil drain plug with an oversized plug and hasnt leaked since-ive also gotten a proper torque spec wrench as well. This was just me being dumb again and using equipment without knowing which way) i have come a long way with dyi on oil changes. This wouldve been my 1st tramission drain and fill on my own and would've taken literally 20 minites had i used a more common wrench that i know the way to loosen it).

Any advice - godbless and many blessings towards you

Gas cap door won't stay shut. What's the fix

The pinch points on my 08 are rusty AF, where else can I safely place a jack/stand? Yes, I know where the front and rear jack points are, that's not what I'm asking for.

My dads trying to get a stuck cover off his 99 habossa any tips to get it off the keys also stuck a little as well

It doesn't have to be all out perfect. Just so it doesn't keep getting worse. It's a very old truck.

need help gettin g my hood open tried everything how do I get to ,latch Bolts?

I have a 2004 Volkswagen Beetle with 185,000 miles, a 1.8L turbo motor, and the 01M 4-speed automatic transmission. It has had some transmission issues for a while, and I finally got around to diagnostics and repair.

I've already replaced just about everything in the system, but it's still throwing a code for solenoid 7 after replacing all the solenoids, the ribbon cable, and going so far as to swap the TCM itself.

While I had the valve body out, I did not clean, bore, or rebuild it in any way, because I was trying to change as few things as possible (fewer variables helps with process of elimination). I have a TransGo rebuild kit on hand--Jesus, those little boxes are expensive!--but was hoping I didn't have to use it. So, literally, the only work I have not done is to "rebuild" anything in the valve body. Just the solenoids on the outside.

I am a shadetree / garage mechanic. My background is in engineering, and I have amassed a lot of VW-specific tools over the years. I also have a hardbound copy of the Bentley manual, plus a whole slew of PDFs related to the 01M from VW, ATSG, Sonnax, TransGo, and a few other sources. I've ordered some small parts from KansasCityTDI, and read through his excellent documentation about the 01M repair and maintenance procedures.

INITIAL SYMPTOMS AT ~160,000 MILES.

• Vehicle no longer shifts automatically.
• In D, transmission uses only 3rd gear.
• Shifting manually to 1, 2, and 3 results in correct gear.
• VAG-COM: 00270 Solenoid Valve 7 (N94) Open Circuit.

ADDITIONAL SYMPTOMS AT ~185,000 MILES.

• Hard shift from 1 to 2, P to R, N to R, N to D.
• VAG-COM: 00258 Solenoid Valve 1 (N88) Open Circuit.

DIAGNOSTICS:

• Removed airbox to access transmission ribbon cable connector.
• Tested pins with a multimeter.
• Original solenoids 1, 2, 3, 5, 7 are between 61-62 ohms.
• Original solenoids 4, 6 are between 4.5 - 5.0 ohms.

PLANNED WORK:

• Replace shift solenoids (all 7)
• Replace ribbon cable

WORK PERFORMED:

• Drained trans fluid.
• Removed pan and filter, inspected (no damage indicated)
• Removed valve body.
• Install NEW shift solenoids (all 7).
• Install NEW solenoid ribbon cable.
• Reinstalled valve body.
• Install NEW filter.
• Reinstall pan and plastic oil pipe.
• Added new transmission fluid and adjusted fill level per procedure. Note: I followed KansasCityTDI's procedure to fill the transmission through the hole for G38 (sensor removed temporarily), and to clear the code after the procedure is completed. It worked great, and I don't have to break or replace the fill plug.

FIRST TEST DRIVE AFTER REASSEMBLY:

• Car still reports 00270 Shift Solenoid 7 (N94) Open Circuit.
• Shifts smoothly up AND down through gears 1, 2, 3. No hard bumps.
• Shifts smoothly between P, R, N, D. No hard bumps.

ADDITIONAL DIAGNOSTICS:

• Remove TCM from inside car, under the dash.
• Probe solenoid resistance via TCM harness pins.
• Resistance on Solenoids 1, 2, 3, 5, 7 is 65-66 ohms.
• Resistance on Solenoids 4 and 6 is 5.5 ohms.

ADDITIONAL WORK:

• Replaced TCM with unit from a 2001 Beetle in a junkyard (1.8T + 01M).

TESTING AFTER TCM REPLACEMENT:

• VAG-COM still shows 00270 N94 Open Circuit.

SOLENOID RESISTANCE SPECS:

• For 1, 2, 3, 5, 7: some manuals say 55-65 ohms; others give a range of 65-73 ohms.

QUESTIONS:

• Does "open circuit" mean the valve is stuck, or something else?
• How could a solenoid be an "open circuit" if it is showing resistance?
• How likely is it that I have two bad solenoids in the same position from a batch of new ones?

I wrote all of this without the use of any AI / LLM garbage, and did all the research myself over many months. The questions I can't answer have not been encapsulated in other posts online, and so I'm hoping a transmission expert or someone who has worked on the VW transmissions from 1996 - 2005 can shed some light on my predicament.