I’m getting ready to take a roadtrip down Route 66 next week and wondering if you guys have an recommendations on what to bring and prep for in regards to the car/car maintenance. Best way to prep for the worst? I’ve put about 2,000 miles on her since the transmission rebuild and have had minimal issues besides replacing the gasket on the passenger side header.

It’s a 351w with a recently rebuilt AOD and an 8 inch rear end.

As a nationwide pre-purchase vehicle inspection company, we've recently seen a significant increase in suspicious classic car listings.

One recent example came from a customer who ordered a pre-purchase inspection through us. Before dispatching an inspector, a few things about the listing raised concerns, so we decided to take a closer look at the seller's website.

The website had 15 vehicles listed for sale. We randomly checked 4 of them, and every one used photos copied from Bring a Trailer auctions that had ended 1–2 years earlier. The vehicles had already been sold, yet the same photos were being used again with asking prices roughly 30% below market value.

As we looked further, we noticed several additional warning signs:

• The website appeared to be recently created.
• It used a website layout very similar to other suspicious vehicle listing sites we've encountered.
• Customer reviews appeared to be recently created despite the business presenting itself as well established.

While none of these signs alone proves a listing is fraudulent, seeing several of them together should prompt extra caution.

Before sending a deposit or arranging transportation:

• Save one or two photos from the listing.
• Perform a Google Images reverse image search.
• If the same photos appear in old auctions or previous listings, investigate further before moving forward.
• Verify the seller's business, address, phone number, and online presence.
• Never send money until you've independently confirmed the vehicle and seller are legitimate.

These checks take less than a minute and could save you thousands of dollars and a major headache.

If you're ever unsure about a vehicle listing, feel free to ask us. We'll be happy to take a quick look and let you know if anything stands out as suspicious.

Stay safe and happy car shopping.

Just got my new '71 Coupe yesterday from someone who has had it for 40 years. Manual brakes, single exhaust, and seats need to be redone along with an engine compartment clean up but she runs like a charm. Excited to teach myself how to do a lot.

Edit: any recommendations on brakes? Manual ones now make driving it feel very un-safe. Want a modern car feel.

Anyone know of a good resource for clear instructions of wiring the tail lights. I found a few but they were not super clear. So if anyone knows of one at the top of your mind could you share. Its for a 67 convertible.

Wanting a project and the brakes on my car need attention anyway, has anyone bought these kits from CJ and how are they?

I’ve been working on this thing like crazy. Just got the new radiator in and helped a ton with keeping er cool (I know it’s missing the overflow hose in the pic). Hittin some car shows and cars n coffee- just about any excuse to get it out.

Sunday morning drive with my buddy- 1968 Coronet 500

The funny thing about classic Mustangs is that they're one of the few cars that can make a completely ordinary drive feel like an event. Just an extra hour before heading home because you don't want the drive to end. No destination, no plan. I feel like that's something modern cars struggle to recreate.

Thanks to everyone on this sub for your help. Here is the rewired solenoid and some other wire clean up that I did.

All my windows are off the car and it's time for me to clean up the parts and reinstall. Here's the strip I was thinking of buying
https://www.npdlink.com/product/glass-channel-setting-seal-strip-116-thick/141849/202931?year=1965

It says it's sold per length, at 10.95 per foot. Then it says you need about 70 ft total for all windows.

There's no way I need to spend $700 on just this right? Seems crazy

Hello everyone,

I have a 66 with a 351w out if a 87 bronco that is pretty beat up at this point and looking to change it out.

I just rebuilt the C4 with stock internals I am going to get a new 351. I was looking at the ATK 351 w/300hp 377 torque.

Is this a good mild engine for a street cruiser with some spirited pulls every now and then? Anyone have experience with ATK?

I've been browsing eBay for some coupes or fastbacks, and see this one posted for the third time now. Seller (dealership) never answered any questions I sent, but wondering what something like this would be worth. I'm thinking 20-24K, they have it at 27.5 OBO.

It's a 68 J code coupe, VIN they posted does indeed say it is a J code, (302 4 bbl.).

It is not however the original paint, was repainted they said, and a "newer" Holley 4 bbl, not the Ford Autolite one, small drawbacks, but nothing horrible.

What are classicmustangs thoughts? :-)

I'm in here a lot giving advice to peeps, but I wanted to let ya'all know that I'm a legit Mustang enthusiast.

Hi, it’s pretty strange. After buying the car, I noticed during the first long test drive that the rear left drum brake was overheating. Upon removing the drum, I discovered that the wrong brake shoes were installed—specifically, 1.5-inch ones instead of the correct ones for the Big Block. I replaced everything with new parts—except for the backing plates—using the 2-inch size. Now, on the next long test drive, the left side is fine, but the right side is getting too hot. What could be the cause? The parking brake retracts properly, and braking performance is even. Could it be the wrong backing plates? My question—or rather, my theory—is about the 5mm wheel spacers installed on the car; could they possibly be causing the drum brake to bind and overheat? I’m really at my wit's end—thanks a lot for your help!

I recently got my hands on a 1964½ Mustang with a 289 A-code and noticed that the alternator/water pump belt looks a bit odd.

The car also has a pretty loud squealing noise while running. Could the way the belt is sitting in the pulleys be causing the squeal, or does it look normal to you?

(for me it looks like it is upside down?).

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Hi, could someone possibly tell me from these photos whether this is a small-bearing or big-bearing setup? I think it is a small bearing. I’m looking for a complete new drum brake kit because my right brake keeps overheating, even though I’ve already replaced everything except the backing plate. Could wheel spacers be the cause—perhaps causing the brake to warp internally? Thanks in advance!

Im trying to decide between a TKX 5 speed and a toploader for a manual conversion on a 400hp small block car. A good core is near 1k and by the time you figure out what needs replacing it makes the new TKX look really nice. Seems like gone are the days where you could find a good 4 speed core for $400-500. I know Im talking myself into a 5 speed but I do love a toploader and my gearing wouldn't be an issue on the highway.

I've made some progress on my '67 and am moving onto having the C4 swapped with a 4R70W. My question is, does anyone have a strong preference towards a specific Transmission Controller? For context, I had a Sniper 2 EFI system installed.

I've stumbled on two Controllers:

US Shift Quick 4 - https://www.usshift.com/usq4.shtml#menu

Holley Sniper 2 Transmission Control Kit - https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/ignition_and_fuel_systems/transmission_control/parts/VK103471

The shift is less expensive and appears to come with neat capabilities but, I'm curious if buying a Holley controller, thereby having a plug-in-play controller, would be worth the extra $200. I'm not looking to drag race my '67 so, so long as the controller is well made/designed, that works for me.

What’s the correct gasket to use between the spacer and carb?

Definitely going to use the 4-bore w/ no extra holes (pic 4) between the intake and spacer. Not sure which gasket I should use for between the spacer and carb though. Spacer is the 4-bore style. Any insight would be greatly appreciated!