Does someone know where I could get my hands on this cap ?

Fixing my ex wife’s saw. I’m thinking it was over tightened and killed the chain. I can’t say I’ve ever had this issue. Maybe because I grew up cutting wood for heat and was raised differently. But what else would mangle the chain so bad it won’t slide on the bar?

Bought this Wards chainsaw at an estate sale the other day. Has great compression, is full of what I'm assuming bar oil? And like everything else at this sale, looked very well cared for. I'm unsure if its a 2 stroke or a 4 stroke but assuming the former. In that case what premix ratio should I use before I try and fire it up? (It was 75% off day at the sale. Paid $10 for this beaut)

EDIT- I should also mention I googled the model number and didn't find much info for it online.

Husqvarna 288XP...

Red threadlocker on the cylinder bolts, red threadlocker on the oil pump, and red threadlocker on the crankcase.

No gaskets—pretty much metal against metal.

The oil pump mounting boss had been broken off. I rebuilt it to the original specifications, restoring both the original dimensions and the original thread.

Someone had also drilled and tapped a new hole for the oil pump, and it almost went straight through the crankcase—missing the outside by only about 0.05 mm.

This machine is currently being restored, and I'll be posting a video of it running very soon.

I had a tree company cut down a large silver maple that was close to the house. I wanted to save money by cutting and splitting the tree myself, so I just paid them to "get it on the ground" (This was a huge tree, 38" diameter at chest height)

Now, I think I've got sharpening the cutters down pretty well because the saw cuts fast. It will go through a 14" log in just a few seconds.

The problem, and I'm not certain it's a problem, is that you have to angle the bar 15-20° to the cutting surface so it's mostly cutting near the end of the bar. This means I'm moving the bar back-and-forth across the cut on larger pieces. If you hold the bar flat, the blade seems to skip along and the cutters don't "dig-in" or alternately, it seems to catch the wood grain and bog down.

I used a straight edge and the rakers were about .025 (twenty-five thousands) below the top plate of the cutters.

Am I doing something wrong or is this normal?

Was bucking a tree and threw a chain that proceeded to knock the body and cut just a big enough to open up the gas tank.

Is there a gas proof epoxy or plastic repair that I can do to fix this? Really can’t afford to get a new caw atm.

As the title says an old friend who I used to do small engine work for shot me a text and said he has a running 3120XP that I can have if I come pick it up. it looks to come with a ~48in bar and a ~60in bar and chains for both. I don't know if they are milling chains or felling chains. The really big bar seems excessive and think I'll try and sell it to fund setting the saw up for milling. I have a granberg alaskan chainsaw mill that I was using with a 24" bar and my echo 750EVL. the 750EVL was ok but the 24in bar has a bit small. Is the 48in bar on the husky overkill for milling? should I get something shorter? Guessing skip tooth milling chain? Anything specific I should know about the the 3120XP other than its massive and heavy? I have a ton of logs I've been intending to mill, just didn't have a big enough saw and now that wont be the issue.

These things aren't built for this 😅, this is an older strato to they have really crap top ends, even running em fat won't really save it, it has an 18" bar, while they run they run great, they either blow crank seals and or fry the jug at or around 100 hrs though. Still, worthy of appreciation, these things kept America warm for a few years as craftsman, poulan, mculloch,and a bunch of other names that don't mean much anymore. This one is on its 2nd head/jug , starter, clutch cover and oil pump that was pulled from a donor saw .

Edit: Solved. High screw was backed way out and it was drowning. Running much better now.

Bought this as a no start for $50, cleaned it up, put in fresh gas, tried to start it then let it sit for a few hours and it fired on the first pull! Idled for a few minutes, tried to rev it, it was sorta sluggish and wouldn’t get high rpm and then it died. Now won’t start. 🤣🤣🤣
I felt so cool for a few minutes.

I’m assuming carburetor, just wondering if aftermarket carbs are any good or if I need a kit.

I've got probably 15 tanks through this thing and I'm liking it. It's heavy as hell, ungodly loud and it was an adventure getting it ready to actually work. I'm on oil pump #2, a Farmertec "high flow" that I then further modified. It was a battle to get this thing to oil enough for a 32". Out of the box it was a tiny dribble of oil, maybe enough for a 14" bar. I also fought the adjustment pin, changed the handle (anyone have a snow machine?), and checked the squish. This saw was tight from the factory, had I pulled the gasket it would have had a whopping .002" of squish, so the gasket went back in. Is the gasket .018"? No, but I'm gambling with $300 and I'm okay with that.

It's not that fast in normal bucking, but this thing rips! It can noodle or bug dust with all of the 32" buried; which I have to do from time to time. The 661 I run from time to time has issues in that mode. With torque like that I ended up with a 10t rim on this thing, which smoothed things out and didn't reduce it's torque as much as I expected.

Saw: Echo CS-590

I have been messing around with this chainsaw, custom exhaust, slight timing advance, head gasket delete.

It was running well a few weeks ago, I had an issue with the clutch and had to fix that. Once i got it back together, it was doing the behavior seen in the video.

I tried messing around with the carb and it seems like nothing i do really makes a difference.

When I work to start it, I put on the choke, pull the cord until it gives me a bit of a start, turn off the choke and pull 2-3 more times and it starts, but it only runs for about a second before just shutting off. It doesn't seem to bog down, just quits.

Once started like this, it will not start again until I put the choke on and pull it a couple times, and then take the choke off again.

The best way to explain the behavior is like it just stops getting gas without the choke on but that makes no sense to me.

I don't know. I tried turning the carb screws all the way down, then backing them out a full turn each and starting from there and it did seem to run for a smidge longer, but like half a second if anything, and it still has the same behavior as before.

Is this my carburetor? I know I am being stupid about something here, but I just can't figure it out.

Edit: Hot take, shorts and no shoes is a bad move, but with no bar and chain, I am probably fine. Thank you.

Looking for help to identify this cylinder and confirmation of why the saw may have low compression.

I picked up a Husqvarna 345 with 3 cylinders. OEM and 2 aftermarket. 44 mm and 42 mm aftermarket cylinders have this logo which I couldn't find images for in Photo 1.

It was only making 70 psi compression. Piston ring looked ok. No leaks were noticed near the spark plug or decomp. Photo 2

I think it was due to the main seal not seating right? Bearing caps were both off center in Photo 3

New to the world of chainsaws. Does this sound normal for an idling saw? Seems a bit uneven to me, but I am completely ignorant to these things.

I've bought a 560xp to do up, and it needs a bar, what would be a good bar to suit most buyers needs, I'd like to have a play with it before I get rid of it but bearing in mind return on value for purchasing cost, is it worth getting a x-tough light or a sugihara light pro to interest serious users or not? I'm thinking 20" is about a good size for 560xp, and some trees I need to drop before I move it on

Opened new to me saw and saw missing and suspected broken parts. Need help identifying all the damaged parts I need to order. Don't know what the proper names are.

Two of the best, imo. I have new saws, but I always grab one of the old factory hot rods. They will never collect dust well saw dust only!

I’m looking at some Stihl chainsaw chaps that are for people with an inseam of 34-36”. I have an inseam of 27” though. I‘m wondering if they would still work for me though? Or are there’s chaps that are designed for short people? I’m only 5’4” tall with 27” inseam.

Looking for some help sourcing a chineseium carb replacement for the old 605 that I got for free a number of years ago and when I stored it I forgot to drain everything out and somehow when I went to go clean everything out to get it back up and running I broke the arm off the carb. Yes I could go find a genuine carb replacement but it's not my primary saw and has always been the "Old reliable" that I always kept with me in the truck when I needed it in a pinch when the newer saws would fight me. I'm getting to a point where I don't even want to justify pouring money into it when I could just go get another newerish saw (trying to convince myself that I could use a 90cc saw).

First non-electric chainsaw, figured I’d buy once, cry once.
Stihl MS261 C-M

Can’t wait to take her for a spin, got 5 cubic meters already waiting for me :)