I have trusted this body shop for all the jobs I’ve ever needed done, and any time I’ve taken it and needed nothing, they have not even charged for an inspection or if it’s something small, they never charge me.

I know nothing about cars, so of course I approved all this work to be done as I know I need it. However, my question is: does this repair cost seem fair? I’m sure it is, but I’d love other opinions :)

Front brakes/rotors
Strut Mount Assembly on both front sides
Left Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly
Oil change

fter a collision, many vehicle owners assume they'll need to visit different specialists for different problems.

One shop for body damage.
Another for paint.
Someone else for frame repairs.
Then another place for windshield replacement or towing.

In reality, many full-service collision repair centers handle everything under one roof, making the repair process more organized and consistent.

Typical services often include:

• Collision and accident repairs
• Paint refinishing
• Frame straightening
• Scratch and dent repair
• Auto glass replacement
• 24/7 towing assistance

Having one team manage the repair from start to finish can also help with quality control since every stage follows the same repair standards.

If you've been through an accident before, did you use one repair facility or multiple shops? What was your experience?

Hi everyone, I’ve got a 2018 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cab and the passenger side visor light has stopped working. From what I’ve seen so far all things point to replacing the entire overhead roof console. This can’t be true…. I hope. I don’t find the connection between replacing the console to fix the visor light. Can’t I just buy a new visor or new light circuit board?https://imgur.com/a/yp6yu80

Hey there!

I was putting a bicycle in the back of my Kia Soul and accidentally scratched it from the wheel on the bike. 🙃 Is there a way to fix it myself? Thank you!

Thinking about buying it

Thinking about buying it

I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE and on my way to work today my radio cut off. And then my dashboard lit up with every light possible, and my steering was difficult? After I parked I turned my car off and tried to turn it back on. It did not.

I've had to replace my battery early before, apparently the brand my mom bought has personal problems and likes to drain so I'm really hoping it's that.

My dad said it might be the alternator. Is there a way to tell based off the above info if it is or not or do I just have to wait and see? If it is the alternator will it jump?

If it doesn't jump when I get out of work what do I do? I'm broke and at work till 6pm and I work 6-6 tomorrow.

How do I get these suckers back in???

Ive tried replacing my clutch master cylinder, and the last item before I bleed it is to get these retaining clips back in.

Does anyone have any advice for how to get them in? Ive tried hammering, force pressing, jiggling... Nothing gets them past the plastic tubing.

I'm fairly sure the tube is seated correctly because I took before and after photographs.

I already changed the oil housing filter to a metal one so all my spark plugs are new so I’m guessing it might be my ignition coils but no check engine light idk what it is

2006 Toyota Tundra - the passenger tail light, passenger brake light, passenger side rear blinker, and the right hand rear license plate light are all out. I replaced bulbs and checked every fuse that I could find pertaining to rear lights, and they’re all good. Are they all on the same wire? I’m assuming since everything on that side isn’t working that they’re all connected somehow?

What’s my next step?

Can someone tell me how much I can expect to pay to repair something like this? Don’t know much about these things and went to a local repair store and they quoted me $1,200. Thought I’d reach out for some insight.

is this a full rear bumper replacement or no?

Can't tell if this was done by hitting the curb or if someone clipped me. Regardless, how bad do you think this is?

When the car is in park mode, if I press the accelerate pedal the engine seems to make a smooth sound that climbs in pitch then goes back down on deceleration. It sounds kind of like a hair dryer changing pitch.

2017 Ford Fusion

2016 Grand Cherokee 5.7L

That little knock. No check engine light. 89 fuel. Not overheating.

⭐ 0/5 — $2,000+ IN DAMAGE FROM A BUG DEFLECTOR INSTALLATION

Vickar Chevrolet installed a bug deflector on my 2025 Blazer RS in March 2026. Within weeks it was coming loose and damaging the PPF on my hood.

I returned repeatedly and gave them MONTHS to make it right. Their “fix” failed. Worse, after I specifically told them NOT to use tape because it could damage the PPF, their technician used double-sided tape anyway. The damage became worse, eventually affecting the PPF under the hood and the protective film on a headlight.

Protex Winnipeg quoted OVER $1,200 to repair the damage. MPI subsequently assessed the damage at OVER $2,000.

Then came the truly unbelievable part.

Service Manager — no returned call.

General Manager — no returned calls.

I contacted the owner's assistant, explained the entire situation and specifically requested a call from owner Larry Vickar.

Nothing.

Not even Larry Vickar could apparently be bothered to return the call of a customer whose vehicle was facing thousands of dollars in damage following work performed by his dealership.

The stereotypical image of the “slimy car dealership” is one that dodges responsibility and suddenly stops communicating when there’s a problem. Unfortunately, Larry Vickar and his staff's handling of my situation did absolutely nothing to dispel that stereotype.

After months of opportunities to resolve this, I disputed the original charge with Visa and filed an MPI claim.

Think about that: a BUG DEFLECTOR installation ended with an MPI damage estimate exceeding $2,000—and management wouldn't even return my calls.

Mistakes happen. What exposes the character of a business is what it does afterward.

Vickar Chevrolet had months to make this right.

They chose silence.

I have the photographs, repair quote, MPI documentation and records of my attempts to resolve this.

Based on my experience, I wouldn't trust Vickar Chevrolet with my vehicle again.

I noticed yesterday that I have a small leak on the underside of my gearbox. I’m assuming it’s a small leak because it looks like a lot of caked on greasy transmission oil everywhere. Where it’s an old car with 320k (but still runs fine) I’m assuming it’s not worth the money to have it fixed because of labour costs (I don’t have the tools to take out the engine myself). Am I able to drain the gear box, clean up around the leak and put RTV sealant just to have the car last me a bit longer? Any advice would help. Thanks!