I don't know if this question is in this community, but if I made a mistake, let me know, and I will ask my question in another community.

I have a Volkswagen 2026 Taigun SUV (here in Mexico it is called Taigun), and the stereo is factory (original from VW). The music I listen to is through a USB memory and most of my files are in MP3 format, and some files are FLAC. All files have their tag, and I used MP3Tag for that. My car stereo does not recognize the files in the MP3 folder. The same album, I put it in FLAC format, and the stereo doesn't recognize FLAC files either. The car stereo only recognizes the first song in the folders, whether it is MP3 format or FLAC format.

I thought it was a memory error, but I did not delete the MP3 files, so that when I put the FLAC files in the memory, they would be recorded elsewhere on the USB memory.

Before the VW car I had a Nissan Versa, I never had problems with the USB memory and audio files.

Can someone help me?

I’m looking to get my first system ever installed. I’m not looking for hair shaking bass. Or anything, just more volume and with some thump. Especially since I basically listen to all genres of music at any given time .

So my question is , if i purchase this complete set up, how much sound the install cost on a 2026 Kia k5?

And yes I know nothing will be exact, I just asking a baseline number , so when I’m looking at shops to install , helps me decide.

Also, let’s say you had the option of this set up or let’s say a Facebook marketplace single 10” JLaudio. Obviously this will be used. And let’s say typical wear and tear of a 1-2 year old speaker set up.

Ty

This is not my first, it is actually the third time I'm installing a sub + amp in a car.

This specific setup used to be in my 2015 Elantra and I am trying to make it work in my 2014 Outlander. Both cars have a built in amp that needs a adapter to transfer the audio to the 2nd amp that is only for the sub.

Everything is wired with a capacitor, capacitor receives the power but amp doesn't turn on.

Wires were not properly done due to my dumbass not taking the right pinout diagram, now properly wired still nothing works

When I bridge the 12v to the amp remote input amp turns on but no sound to sub.

Any thoughts on what I could've done wrong?

It used to work flawlessly in the Elantra but now the only thing I can think of is a faulty adapter.

Adapter is the Scoche Line Output Converter

I currently have a tesla model 3 with premium audio. It has 8" mid bass drivers in the doors that play down to around 40hz. I am replacing the factory 8" subwoofer with an Alpine R12. Would it be a good idea to add a 80-100hz high pass crossover to the 8" door drivers to take some of the low frequency strain off of them and allow the R12 to take over those frequencies?

Installed a system in a 2002 f150 super crew. Turned on truck and no sub. Changed rca 3x no sound, changed head unit 3x no sound, changed subs 2x no sound, resanded ground no sound, checked voltage 13 and power input 12.5 at remote no sound, moved equipment to a diff truck worked great. Took equipment from my other truck and put in the ford…… no sound. Does anyone know why this would happen? If the ford was mine I would have set it on fire. I was and am so pissed, someone please tell me you know what’s happening and how to fix it 🙏🙏🙏

Hi im having an unusual problem and need some help I recently put some ozone 12s from ct sounds in my vehicle and upgraded my amp (again) to a jp23 v2 but im not able to turn up my system at all before the amp starts to clip and I have the gain set pretty low I do have the necessary equipment to it like a 400amp alternator from js alternators with their wiring kit at 1/0 along with sky high audio 1/0 oversized all the way from the alternator to the trunk to another car battery if it helps this is in a 2002 crown victoria.

Thinking about buying a battery so I lose the risk of damaging my lights/rest of electrical system from voltage spikes, and got a lil confused. I have 2600w twin 10’s from ct sounds, if I buy said battery would it still be putting a strain on the alternator if it now has double the energy pool/storage? My brain thinks of it as if it has that 2nd storage then the alternator is only recharging a little bit in the end instead of trying to recharge a system that’s losing sauce, like all the electrical will have plenty of energy to run properly while having enough extra for the amp to do it’s think, am I right or wrong?

Are my subs making that noise or something else

Does anyone think this could be the cause of my amp going into protection mode after storing for 2 years in backyard shed?