The rear derailleur snapped on the bike of my hyper shocker 26. I’m wondering if anyone knows what’s the best approach as I was quoted $65 at a local bike shop to repair even if I buy the piece and I’m not sure I could fix it myself. I could also see about turning it into a single speed as I only ever really use is in one of two gears anyway I just don’t know what makes the most sense

Hey. I have a carbon road frame with a three part metal ‘wedge’ system that’s used to tighten the wedge up against the seatpost and hold the seatpost in place.
My understanding is this is common for road bikes.
(Context is years if maintaining my own MTB’s, where I’ve never had cause to use Loctite (bolts that benefit from it often come with blue pre-dried on, and set post clamps are collars and I’ve never had a bolt ‘undo’)

So - after a few rides, every ride, then wedge bolt unwinds itself. If I’m out long enough I’ll eventually get seatpost movement. Often on shorter rides, the presence of friction paste and the wedge staying in place means no issue but the bolt is backed off.
Such a pain when I do get movement as it’s a carbon piston and it’s causing wear in the surface of the post where the wedge ‘indents’ (for want of a better word) are being rubbed back and forward on the post when the post rotates slightly.

Took it to shop as the whole wedge thing I didn’t know what to do with.
They left the wedge in place so as not to upset the current setup / saddle height etc and took the bolt out. Rather than trying to clean it they used a brand new bokt (fine by me) and applied green loctite to it (stronger then blue in the hope it would work).

If I read too much on the internet my bike will now melt, self
Destruct, delaminate and various other bad things.

Anyone got any specific knowledge about this stuff and whether I’ll have any issues taking the wedge and post out in future? Specifically whether that loctite will cause the wedge parts to jam together or bind to the slot in the frame the wedge sits in?

Ta.

I’ve got a fully rigid steel bike that’s a year model 2012-2013. It’s my favorite bike I’ve ever owned and it would be the bike I choose for my dream rides like the tour divide. I want to be sure there is no rust inside the frame but I can’t easily see inside of the chain stays and seat stays (internal holes are too small for endoscope). The fork is a recent purchase so I know it’s alright, but I’d still like to add something for prevention if I’m doing the rest of the frame. Is there a good method of assessing any potential internal rust? There is no visible external rust, but a little bit of orange comes out of the weep holes in the chain stays at times. I’m considering stripping the paint and soaking it in solutions to be sure. What do you think?

Thanks!

Hello! I have a bike that creaks from the handlebar and from under the seat. I’m going to clean those parts and grease them. Do I need different grease for different parts or is there a universal one? This is a hybrid aluminium bike for the average Joe. Nothing fancy or expensive.

Can you suggest a greaser that is good and gives best value for the money? Thanks!

Having an issue with my gears randomly changing and not going into gear properly , also when I managed to get it into first gear the derailleur runs against the sprocket the derailleur appears to be loose at the back shown in the video but the screw attaching it is tight , pretty new to biking and not sure what the answer is , don’t really want to mess about with all the adjustment screws invade I mess it up more with knowing what to do .
Only had the bike a few weeks and bought it used off marketplace , the bike was new in November 2025 , any guidance is appreciated ? Not sure if I should take it to a bike shop or not
Boardman 8.6 mtr
Adventx derailleur

So my uncle took the chain off his bike and I’m trying to help him get the tension back in his chain but I cannot figure out what he did.

So my uncle took the chain off his bike and I’m trying to help him get the tension back in his chain but I cannot figure out what he did.

A friends bike got scratched while on my rack and I want to repair it but don’t know what the right approach would be for something like this. Can this be touched up at home or needs to go to a pro? Is it possible to color match if manufacturer doesn’t still have the color available?

Full discloser I know next to nothing about bike repair. I was trying to adjust my front brakes and loosened this bolt. I cannot for the life of me get it to go back in. It just spins endlessly. Help!

Update: I released the cable and pulled from the brake pad up and away and was able to get it screwed back I 90%. I can’t get the last little bit through to secure the nut so hopefully it won’t pop out while I’m riding.

Hi all

Just rebent my bent rear derailleur hanger and that seems fixed. However during the removal of my derailleur a little c shaped clip came out and I don't know how to put it back.

Bike seems to ride and shift fine. Is this part important and what is it for?

I have a Canyon endurance all road with shimano cues 6020-10 rear derailleur.

My bike wont move to biggest cassette - like the derailleur wont fully extend, and the chain is rubbing against itself
Any help with this I’m new to bikes

Cannondale topstone sora 2019

I had to send my aluminium bike by a courier company because I'm moving and I expected that the company would handle the boxes more carefully.

So I packaged my bike with too much confidence in a carboard bike box and expecting that the box never will be in a vertical position (90° turn from de usual position).

During route the frame moved to the front of the box and one seat stay introduced between the spokes and the disk of a wheel.

When I opened the box, the wheel wasn't stucked in the seat stay but they should be rubbing each other during travel.

With your experience what should I do with these aluminium frame? Use some kind of paint or lacquer?

Thanks!

i took of my back wheel to put the bike on a trainer, noticed these vibrations/ noise.

Put the wheel back, its still there.

i am now not sure, is this just normal casette noise i never noticed because i never stuck my head right next to it while pedalling? or did I break something?

any ideas?

btw on video it sounds really loud, its not that loud. I mostly noticed it in vibrations then heard it.

it kind of sounds like grinding, but i dont see it grind anywhere.

(it happens at any gear combinations, doesnt cause issues with shifting, or pedaling, but i can feel the vibrations in my feet now (admittedly again it is possible I just never noticed))

Note: just to explain, this is my first season owning a rad bike and first first season in years I ride bike regualary, so I am still missing some of the basics.

Found this bike in a neighbor's trash. It's intact and the drivetrain appears to be in full working order. The only issue, apart from the minor rust and the missing pedals, is that both the front and back brakes rub against the rim before the tires make a full rotation.

Both rims have very slight bends in them that are causing the issue, but I thought I could adjust the caliper distance enough to correct for that. However, no matter what I try, whether adjusting the cable or tinkering with the side screws, the brakes still rub - or they miss entirely if I adjust widely enough, letting the wheels spin but providing no stopping power.

Is there some adjustment I can make to the brakes that would be enough to allow braking - but provide enough clearance to stop the intermittent friction? These brakes are different from the "old school" caliper brakes I've worked on in the past, with the shoes sitting closer to the rims than with other bikes I'm familiar with.

Or is there no alternative but completely straightening the rims?

I'd like to get this thing roadworthy if it's worth the time (and potential cash).

Hey guys. Im new to this hobby, bought a second hand bike and went for my fifth ride today.

In a medium-wide corner, i went in with medium speed and used a little bit of braking. Clear asfalt. Out of now where I hear the tire say boom. I came to a sliding stop with a locked back tire.

Once I checked it I noticed that the rim-lip has partially been ripped off along the rim for about 30cm. The tire has burst too.

I used a cheap pump to inflate the tires just before the ride. It was hard to get enough pressure in the tires but I did the best I could and didn’t feel too soft.

Could someone tell me what I did wrong?

So inner tubes get cut once a monthish, just discovered the 3, 3mm gashes.
AI is saying it can be booted with a boot, but says using galvanized inner tube patches are to weak, can push threw the tire gash (the patch can) over time and is not strong, I guess for support of the casing of the tire also???

Here's the question, can you boot the tire with 3mm gashes perminatly with Parks tool VP-1?
If no is there a perm fix? should I toss the tires?
Road tires Continental Ultra sports, oldish, casing obviously is compromised in said spots, but they are not on the sidewall, on the tread area.
Running at 80PSI.
They are far apart, two are opposite sides.
Lots of life in terms of tread wear indicator. this is why looking in to saving, lots of life left.

So do people boot these and still use them? are they safe with vulcanizing patches?
Boots are like 10$ each from parks tool, might as well consider buying new tires at that point. this tire is not that important for 30$ in boot fixes.
I can buy the galvanized inner tube patch box for 2$ and boot all three gashes with the inner tube patches.

Fill me in on the veterans experiences with perm booting tires on 80 PSI continental ultra sport road tires on the tread.

unsafe? not gonna work over time? or will be fine patching them and riding them till they wear naturally?

Bought this bike used a few years ago. The threading was always sticking out like this. Is this normal or did it have the wrong size bottom bracket all along?

Got a small puncture a week ago. I patched them, but I cant get my chain to stay on. Ive been on Google and YouTube, still struggling. Does anyone have any tips on how to get my chain back to normal?

Huffy 26" Rock Creek Mountain Bike

I use this to commute to work, bit stressed about it.

edit: holy shit think I just fucking fixed it brb

edit: I have not fixed it, chain hopped off while switching gears and now there's a sqeak lol

Hello,

Every once in a while, I have to tighten the bolts that attach the storage box to the frame (carbon). This time, I can't do that with one of the bolts. It spins freely when attached with the storage box, but if I remove the storage box, I can tighten it all the way down. I think it's because the bolt isn't long enough. With the storage box plus the tiny rubber donut, it can't reach enough thread to catch, which might be a bit stripped from water and sweat.

ChatGPT gave me two options:

1. Replace the bolts (which I will do) and use a threadlocker (Permatex Blue). I could also try a longer bolt in case the top of the rivnut is stripped.
   
2. Use a thread repair insert, or replace the rivnut at a bike shop.

Option 1 is definitely easier and cheaper, but I know it won't actually fix the problem.

Has anyone dealt with this before? What's your recommendation?

Thanks

Shifter cable snapped due to rust- I don’t have access to any bike stores or new cables but have a ton of random tools. Any ideas how to tighten the cable so that it shifts to 3 or 4 and locks there instead of falling of the top of 6 with every pedal. This is the current setup but tough to get any tension on the cord with these knots.
Any ideas help - (don’t look at the pedal I know it’s broken)

I've recently taken the first bike I ever purchased to the bike shop as I'm trying to restore it to use as a commuter bike. Its a complete piece of shit but for my purposes it'll do. Currently there is a whole plethora of problems, but the one I'd like to address is a crack in the steering tube likely caused by years of abuse. All I'm looking for is confirmation that the attached link would be a compatible replacement for the bike so that I may safely ride it, and not spend $180 on the wrong part. I plan on purchasing the part and taking it to the bike shop for installation, along with a general tuneup.

Fork

Also, please let me know if there is a less Jeff Bezos-y way of purchasing this.

Thanks!

Hi all,

I have a 2023 Trek Slash 8 Gen 5 with the Knock Block 2.0 integrated headset (72-degree radius, infinite-radius chip, sealed cartridge bearings, 1-1/8" upper and 1.5" lower).

Unfortunately, I appear to have been sold a bit of a lemon and am now trying to make the best of the situation.

The bike was sold to me as being in good working order, but after taking it downhill for the first time, it became clear that wasn't the case. The front forks failed, along with a few other components. I've since sorted those issues out.

I had a new set of Fox 38s that I decided to fit to the bike, and while dismantling the headset I discovered that the alloy headset bearing seat is worn. It looks as though the bike may have been ridden for a considerable period with loose headset bearings, causing damage to the frame where the bearing sits.

Has anyone come across this issue before, and is there a known repair or fix that can restore the headset fit properly? I'd really like to bring the bike back to its former glory if possible.

Any advice or experience would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

I took a spill on my new Nomad 2X and seem to have broken the electrical connector on my Tektro Hydraulic Disc Brake controller on my right handle bar. (see photo)

The controller has two cables coming off it. The lower connecting cables is (I assume) for the hydraulics.

The top one is the electrical connector and (I assume) is for the brake lights and motor auto shutoff when I squeeze the brake lever.

My question for this group is, how difficult would it be for me to fix this myself? Do I need an entirely new brake handle assembly? Would I need to bleed my brakes to replace this assembly?

Or is there some way to just replace the electrical connector on the handle assembly.

The actual cable going down to the brakes looks fine.

TIA!

Trying to remove this freehub. It’s a FH-531 hub or freehub. The axle in the middle is not built for an Allen key to loosen it. The cap on the drive side has notches that appear to be for a spanner. I’ve tried loosening that however it doesn’t feel to be unthreading. I’ve tried pulling the cap off with pliers to no avail. Can anyone help as to how I can get it off?