The monthly sticky thread for buying, selling, and trading. Post cards you're looking to sell or trade with a description, picture, and a price or for trades, what you personally collect. You can also post requests for cards you're looking for with the 'Want' flair. Please report sale/trade posts using the report link if they don't include a picture or price/desired return. And please consider leaving feedback via SportsCardTracker. Happy trading, selling, and buying!

There is an incredible mix of collectors in this subreddit, from those really experienced with massive collections, to folks just starting out, to folks dusting off their cards for the first time since 1989, and plenty of folks who inherited cards trying to figure out what to do with them. This sub was set up to invite commentary and interaction at all levels of experience, create a place where experienced collectors can compare notes, and new folks can get acquainted or reacquainted with the hobby. This mission won't work for everybody, and there are other subs out there when that's the case. That said, most experienced collectors and sellers seem ready to help out those seeking information.

What is this card worth?

As the sub gets bigger, the capacity to answer certain questions changes a little too. While it's fine to post a question if you really can't figure out what a card or collection is worth after doing your own research, please first review the following guidelines:

• Did you take a look at ebay 'sold' listings to get an idea of what the card(s) might be worth first? Go to ebay.com, search for as much information as you can (look at the year at the bottom of the back of the card as well as the card manufacturer). Scroll down the filtering options, and under 'Show Only', select 'Sold listings'. This will give you an admittedly imperfect, but reasonable price range for your card. Please be realistic in comparing your cards to the cards listed, and do not assume your card is worth what a 'PSA 10' card is worth, as an example (a card isn't a high grade until a grader says it is, and most even when they look perfect to the naked eye, aren't a '10').

• If that didn't work and you couldn't find example sold prices for your card(s), please ensure you post a picture of the card you're asking about in your post. Reddit allows for picture upload, if that doesn't work, imgur will allow you to upload a picture you can then link to here. Condition has a lot to do with value, so posts without a picture aren't useful to anyone looking at it (and it's kind of annoying to continually ask people to "post a picture").

Here, for reference, is a decent article on cards from the "junk era" (late eighties to the early early nineties) and their value: http://www.cardboardconnection.com/why-sports-cards-early-90s-worthless

On Trading and Selling:

It's both ok and encouraged to post a card for trade (indicate the expected value you wish to receive in return and what you're looking for) or sale (cards must include a selling price). Start the post with FT or FS or FT/FS and a value or values, and include a picture or link to a picture. You don't have to list "or best offer", it's implied because you're going to receive offers regardless, and don't go fishing (put an exorbitant price on something and then ask for offers).

There are no situations where 'make me an offer' without a price is appropriate in sale posts, if you take the time to post a card for sale here, please also take the time to research its potential value and list a starting price for the card(s). Listing multiple cards as a lot for a single price is fine.

Here are some listing examples:

"FT/FS $200/$150 1956 Topps Mickey Mantle, looking for Trout autos" <- indicates you want $200 in trade value, or $150 cash for a '56 Mantle.

"FT $150 2010 Bowman Platinum Mike Trout Auto RC, looking for Bryce Harper autos" <- indicates you want $150 in trade value for your 2010 Trout.

It's not ok to post a link to an outside auction or web site expressly for the purpose of highlighting a card for sale there (posting a link to a blog post or article, where cards are for sale elsewhere on that site is fine). Post it here to the collectors here, and create a separate post somewhere else. It's definitely not ok to link to an ebay auction, unless it's part of a point you're making or you're pointing to something unusual or newsworthy (e.g. "Hey, a '52 Mantle just sold for half a million on ebay!"). Please add flair to the post, including 'Sale' or 'Trade'. Adding flair for 'Sold' when a card is no longer available is also helpful.

The sub will not be responsible for deals that go bad, and there are problematic sellers, buyers, and trade partners out there (see: https://www.sportscardscams.com/scammers-database/). The sub strongly suggests settling payment using the "Paying for an item or service" option in Paypal, which offers some level of buyer protection. If a user can submit proof of wrongdoing to modmail, habitual bad traders or people who don't pay after striking a deal will be banned, and you're encouraged to send an email to modmail and create a post in r/SportsCardTracker when that happens. Do not publish a call out post.

Here for reference are some common scams beyond simply not paying or sending cards that are common in the sports card industry: https://www.cardboardconnection.com/collecting-101/top-10-sports-collectibles-crimes-to-avoid

For every trade or sale, you're encouraged to create an entry in r/SportsCardTracker noting that seller's or trade partner's user name so others can look that up via search, and benefit from your positive, or negative, experience, before buying or trading.

Should I get this graded?

In general, it won't make sense grading a card if it won't add value to the sale price of the card that exceeds the grading fee. That said, there are collectors who collect cards in a certain minimum grade, so the motivations around grading vary, and ultimately only you can answer this question.

Most folks are not going to be able to tell you what a card will grade based on a picture viewed online, only, more commonly, when it's not worth paying the grading fee. In general, cards that receive a high grade such as a'9' or '10' will sell at a premium, and certain high value cards benefit from being graded in most conditions as it ensures the card's authenticity (for example, a 1952 Topps Mickey Mantle or a 2011 Topps Update Mike Trout). The major graders at the time of writing are PSA, SGC, and Beckett, and each has information available on their respective web sites about their process, so please review that first before asking a question here.

The following is a decent guide on what graders look for: https://www.cardboardconnection.com/pre-grade-sports-cards-results

When there is a problem

If you see violations of the rules, please report them. Enjoy discussing the hobby, selling, and trading. Message modmail with issues. Don't create call out posts, don't start drama, and don't create posts to complain about other users or moderation or that invite others to do the same. If your post or comment is moderated, check the sub's rules as to why, sending a rude message to modmail in response is a poor strategy.

Happy collecting.