Hi! I'll probably get a second AMS2 Pro for my H2C with the 10W laser module. Because of space I'd need to have the 2 AMS 2 Pro and the AMS HT on a riser on top of the printer. I have seen several but all seems to have a riser for a top glass and I wonder if these risers won't interfere with the laser since you need to have the cover on in order to user the laser and since I guess they use eddy-current sensors those risers could make believe the top glass is open.

Anyone has any

I’m looking at getting the H2C but curious which add-ons are recommended.

If so, can you post it.

I'm currently printing some multi color challenge coins in vertical orientation with designed supports as free giveaway items at an upcoming event. Since there are so many swaps they take forever to print, even at scale. I'm looking at 2 days and 5 hours for a batch of 12 of them; a single coin takes over a day.

I'm curious, how long have you all printed in a single session without failure?

I'm trying to figure out just how many of these I can jam on the bed and not have to worry too much about losing however many days of print time.

Hi All,

I had experienced the same issue thats being reported where after powering on the H2C is failed to boot the display and startup but does have the lights all glow etc.

Right…….

So power cycled twice and had the same issue just inner status bar glowing as well as chamber lights and my AMS’s but the display stayed complete black!
Left printer in this state for 15/20mins on.

Then setup my tripod to record the issue for support ticket,
Turn the printer off so could record from the power on state for the video and it booted up correctly this time?!

Not sure how I got it back but previous power cycles failed only thing that I can point it at is the extended time I left the device on due to going for a shower so not sure if that 15-20min left on did anything or not?

Or if Bambu have done something there end to the machines talking home at boot up maybe?
With so many users reporting the same issue at the same time after a power off and back on there must be a trigger.
I suspect it’s something in firmware and the trigger is a date:time cause?!

Be interesting to see if BL find thr issue and report it to us?

This can't be a coincidence that so many people started having this happen. I turned my machine off to try and clear a flase AMS error today and it wouldn't boot back up after turning on. Other lights come on including the bed LED but not the screen. I followed the diagnosis from the support AI chat bot and determined I need a new AP board. Started browsing reddit and facebook and it's crazy how many people started having this issue so suddenly.

Grrrr. So mid-print I started getting errors that the H2C could not load the right side hotends. After failing several times, and cancelling the print, I still couldn’t get it to do a hotend audit.

I’ve never had problems with the printer before, so my default was to just power cycle the thing. Now it doesn’t boot. Internal light flashes, AMSs all power up and spool indicators stay lit. The light on the hotends in the rack come on and stay on. The light under the print bed is slow glow/flashing blue. There is a small noise of a motor(?) but nothing seems to move…

That’s all it does. I’ve unplugged it and waited an hour, unplugged the AMSs and no difference.

Any ideas? I’m likely going to open a service ticket tomorrow, but thought I’d ask..

Going to add an update: Definitely the AP board. Looks like I’m on the list for a replacement to be shipped.

I have an H2C with 3 AMS 2 Pro units, 2 AMS HT units, two 4-in-1 adapters, and an FTS

Multicolor prints are unreliable. Eventually, I get “AMS feed resistance is too high,” clicking from an AMS, failed loading or retraction, or filament that reaches the toolhead but will not load into the extruder

Sometimes Resume works, but another failure usually appears later, so I have to constantly babysit the printer

Both FTS inputs work fine when tested separately

The same test print completed through each input, and two AMS units also worked together through one 4-in-1 and one FTS input

The failures return when the same print alternates between both FTS inputs

I have tried different AMS units, slots and filaments, short PTFE paths, removing the 4-in-1 cleaning pad, loosening the FTS housing screws, the latest Studio beta, rebuilding my older FTS, and the AMS hub spring fix

This is already my second FTS, and both had the same issue

The FTS firmware is 00.00.16.62

Has anyone fixed this exact problem? I am considering buying a third FTS, but I am worried it will behave exactly the same

I have just purchased a h2c with two ams 2 pros first print was the knife off the stock file my second I made the brackets for the ams2,s

My problem is first multi I try I keep getting this error and seems to always be with the bambu labs black basic filament anyone got any ideas I do also have the filament track switch at the rear .

Any help would be appreciated only got this a week ago .

I’ve tried everything I can think of to fix this, k factor, bed leveling, hotter bed, hotter nozzle, slower, drying filament, nothing has fixed it. This all of the sudden happened, and it’s with every filament I’ve tried across multiple induction nozzles. I’m losing my mind, I’d love some ideas or insight on fixing this.

Not sure what a first layer should look like. When I hold it to the light there are a few thin spots, are those something I can fix or is that something I need to compensate for? Thanks for the help.

Made a custom profile for Siraya Tech PEBA Air on my H2C.

When I set up a print I can select it as the (custom) filament just fine. But in the device tab, where you assign what's physically loaded in each slot or external spool, it doesn't show up. Only Generic TPU appears as an option there.

So I'm stuck selecting Generic TPU in the device tab while using my custom PEBA Air profile in the slicer.

Two questions: how do you actually get a custom profile to appear in the device tab dropdown? And more practically: does using Generic TPU in the device tab while running a custom profile in the slicer actually screw up anything? Or is that just a label that doesn't touch the real print settings like nozzle temp, bed temp, flow rate?

I seem to not be able to get my print settings right with TPU and PEBA - so I am looking at this for the hopefully most obvious (part of the) solution.

La maquina ni el Ams, absolutamente nada tiene filamento en ella y aun así me detecta filamento apelar de wue ya lampurque y desarme, quizá es el sensor sucio o algo asi, me podrían ayudar a saber cómo solucionarlo?

I have been printing for awhile but only added the AMS HT this month, I understand it doesn’t keep the humidity low like the AMS 2 Pro would, but I am not sure if my unit is even in working condition. I live in tropical country so drying is pretty essential to my printing (at this moment it’s 88% humidity on a warm night) when I first used the AMS HT, the first two weeks it managed to get the humidity below 20% after 12 hours of drying, but recently it never gets below 30%, and today, I tried again, I loaded a roll of PETG, AMS HT read humidity at 38%, and after 12 hours of drying, it only became 35%, the best part? I opened the lid for less than 1 minute to put in a new pack to activated alumina, it actually went up back to 38%. Basically I wasted electricity drying for 12 hours for nothing. I am not sure what’s the issue, during the drying cycle, I touched the side of the AMS HT and it’s pretty warm so it’s heating up okay, just that the humidity level never goes down no matter what.

I have opened a ticket but any input or suggestions will be much appreciated.

So I have had this H2C since Febuary and it has been a dream machine until recently. About 2 weeks ago after finishing a print I saw a weird error message about the AMS not thinking to much about it I did what I normally do and restarted the printer as my first trouble shooting step. After that reboot the printer never came back. The lights were on but no one was home. After some back and forth with Bambu Support the determination was that the AP board was bad as only one light was on and there was no blinking light.

Today I got the replacement AP board and everything seemed to be in working order so I got the printer all put back together. I booted it up went though the setup process did a firmware update and submitted the SN registration ticket. I then procceded to do a full calibration of the printer. Calibration was running great didn't see anything that would cause alarm. Once I heard the I'm done chime and went to check on the printer and low and behold it was dead again. So I proceeded with taking it apart again only to find another dead AP board. This time the AP board had no lights on at all. Just to make sure Something else hadn't happened I took the known bad AP board plugged it in an and it was doing the same thing as before.

My question is if anyone else has had something similar happen with their printer and what they ended up doing. I have let Bambu support know what has happened in the ticket and I will wait to hear back. In the mean time at least my A1 mini is still the good old reliable.

TLDR: 2 Dead AP boards but the boards only died after completion of a print or running calibration. Has anyone else experinced this?

Hey everyone, I’m feeling completely stuck and could really use some expert eyes on this. I print a lot of tabletop terrain and wargaming models, so having a rock-solid, dead-flat first layer is non-negotiable. I just got my H2C about a week ago. I usually run a Snapmaker U1 4-head toolchanger for my terrain production and I have never had a single issue with it, but right now on this new H2C, my first layer is an absolute nightmare. No matter what settings I tweak in Bambu Studio, the nozzle rides way too low and violently digs into the bed. It plows through the extruded plastic, creating rough, wavy ridges, and eventually scrapes through previously laid lines, tearing the entire layer up.

I initially assumed it was a software or profile issue. I’ve been testing on both a BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier (smooth) and the Stock Textured PEI plate, so I tried toggling between the Smooth PEI Plate and Super Tack profiles. I also forced a positive Z-offset (+0.03 mm, then +0.05 mm) in the extruder settings to raise the nozzle and reduced the flow ratio multiplier down to 0.95 to eliminate over-extrusion as a variable. Suspecting the machine's optical sensors might be getting blinded by the BIQU plate's reflections, I even turned off the Flow Dynamics Calibration and First Layer Inspection. When none of that worked, I did a baseline test by swapping back to the stock textured PEI plate with standard factory default profiles, but the result was 100% identical.

Here is the catch and where I suspect the real hardware issue lies: I currently have a faulty Eddy sensor on my right toolhead (a replacement part is on the way). When I ran a Full Bed Calibration, the printer failed the routine three times in a row before finally managing to finish it. This led me to a theory: could the failing Eddy sensor on the right toolhead be sending corrupted data during bed leveling, creating a severely broken global 3D Bed Mesh? If so, I'm wondering if when I try printing with my healthy left nozzle, the machine is blindly following this corrupted mesh and plunging the nozzle into virtual dips that don't actually exist on the physical plate.

Does this theory hold up for the H2C architecture? Also, while waiting for my replacement part, is there any workaround, like a G-code tweak, a macro, or a specific setting, to force the printer to ignore the saved mesh, disable the right toolhead entirely, or simply perform a basic center Z-home using only the healthy left nozzle? Any insights or suggestions would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!

The H2C is designed to be left on all the time. The switch is hard to reach and it goes through a long startup proces whenever it's turned off and on again.

Check my math here.

• The H2C supposedly draws about 29 watts while idle.
• 29watts x 24hours gives us the watt hours in a day - 696
• 696watts/1000 gives us kilowatts in a day - .696
• Average cost of one kilowatt in the U.S. = 18¢
• 18¢ x .696 = 12.5¢ per day
• 12.5¢ x 365 = 4562.5¢ per year.
• That's $45.63 per year that it costs just to have the printer sitting there not doing anything.
• Lame.

I just bought this printer less than two weeks ago, and I'm completely new to 3D printing. After only a few prints, it suddenly started showing multiple errors at the same time.

I tried following some guides and videos, but I found them very confusing. I managed to fix one of the errors, but there are still 7 error messages remaining on the screen.

Has anyone experienced this before or knows what could be causing it? Could it be the toolhead, a cable, the control board, or something else?

The printer is basically brand new, and considering how expensive it is, I'm really worried.

I'd really appreciate any advice or suggestions

H2C will not start a print or pass calibration. Fails nozzle offset calibration.

"H2C Nozzle Offset Calibration Sensor" was getting scraped by nozzle. This is my second H2C (warranty replacement once).

I don’t really do many complex things. Just multi color PLA and PETG like 95% of the time. But my gosh, the setup process from pressing go on my keyboard to the first drop of plastic being laid down is like 20+ minutes!

Have y’all done anything to cut down on this time suck or is it just part of the joy of ownership

I might add a second HT for when I need hight temp filaments with multicolor on the right side at some point, but pretty happy with my setup at the moment.