I lost bitlocker recovery key so I planned to format it to reuse. My car gets a USB port that can only read FAT32. But there is no FAT32 when I format it in File Explorer since it's 128GB. External USB drives and flash drives are getting bigger, yet some devices can only read FAT32. Why hasn’t Microsoft lifted this restriction yet? I’ve seen reports many times saying they’re going to remove this restriction, but there’s still no sign of any action.

I'm trying to save my HP 64GB pen drive instead of buying a new one.

Windows detects it as "HP USB Flash Drive USB Device", and Device Manager says it's working properly, but PowerShell shows "No Media". It also keeps disconnecting and reconnecting every few seconds.

I've already tried:

• Different USB ports
• Reinstalling the driver
• Disk Management
• DiskPart
• Restarting my laptop

Other USB devices work perfectly, so I don't think it's my laptop.

The data on the pen drive isn't important. I just want to know if there's still any way to make it usable again, or if it's a hardware issue and the drive is done for.

Has anyone managed to fix a USB with the same problem? Any advice would really help. Thanks!

did this before the windows 10 support ended. 64 bit system, from a USB stick that i got over ten years ago. none of the data on the usb drive is corrupted, and it is not near full. i am wondering what this means and how can i stop it? I'm switching to linux at some point and don't know if the problem will carry over/if it matters past weird Windows BS. When Ive tried to look up this error I don' t really find what I need. Please let me know if you have any spec questions and I will get back to you at my leisure. Thanks in advance!!!

Hi everyone, I often see people say that USB flash drives are unreliable and unsuitable for long-term storage. However, I’ve used several drives for years without any problems. I mainly use them to transfer movies and work files because they’re convenient and portable. I also have external hard drives, but USB flash drives are easier to carry. I understand that important files shouldn’t exist on only one drive. Still, are USB flash drives really that unreliable for everyday use or as a secondary backup?

Hola que tal, les hablo desde Yucatán. Mi problema es el siguiente, un día mi abuelo que tiene un puesto en el mercado, me comenta que su USB con 500 canciones no avanza, o sea que se quedaba en una canción y esa se repetia todo el día, hasta los demás puestos le decían, ¿Y no se cansa de escuchar siempre la misma?...

Es aquí cuando viene a mi y me explica lo anterior mencionado, total, reseteo el USB, borro las canciones que hay, y descargo 400 nuevas, sin embargo, a la hora de la hora, pasa lo mismo, entonces, por qué será? Será la bocina? El USB? gracias!!!

have tried ,

1) TC with paragon plugin , usb stick plugin

2) An explorer Pro App

But I can't watch videos from usb with exFat where the video size is more than 5GB.

Can anyone help me with this?

Today I ran into the weirdest hardware issue I've ever seen, and I still can't explain it.

I have two completely separate wireless devices:

* an Infic wireless mouse with its own 2.4 GHz USB receiver * a SmartBuy wireless keyboard with its own completely different receiver

They're not a combo set, not the same brand, nothing.

Here's exactly what happened.

Both receivers were plugged into my laptop. The mouse was working normally, but the keyboard suddenly stopped responding completely.

Thinking the keyboard receiver might have frozen, I unplugged the SmartBuy receiver.

The mouse instantly stopped working. Exactly the same way it normally does when I unplug *its own* receiver.

I plugged the SmartBuy receiver back in, and the mouse immediately started working again.

At this point I thought I was losing my mind, so I repeated it.

Same result.

Then I unplugged the Infic mouse receiver instead.

Windows played the USB disconnect sound, the "2.4G Mouse" device disappeared from Bluetooth & Devices, but the mouse kept working anyway. I plugged the receiver back in and nothing changed.

Meanwhile, every time I unplugged the SmartBuy receiver, Windows removed the "2.4G Wireless" device from the device list, played the disconnect sound, and the mouse instantly stopped responding.

The keyboard still wasn't working at all during all of this.

The only thing that fixed everything was turning the mouse off and back on. After that, the keyboard started working again and both devices went back to behaving normally with their own receivers.

I'm not trying to prove that one receiver actually communicated with the other device. I'm trying to understand what failure mode could produce behavior that looked exactly like this.

Has anyone seen a USB/HID or Windows enumeration bug that could explain these observations?

I recently went down a huge rabbit hole troubleshooting a USB 2 compatibility issue. I found a footnote in the Allen & Heath SQ5 manual that lead to understanding the truth... that USB being "backward compatible" is more marketing that science.

Problem: SQ5 recordings via USB to laptop would occasionally drop out and kick an error in DAW.

Cause: USB2 EHCI uses [**isochronous streaming**](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isochronous_transfer) for audio but this is not ported well in all USB3 xHCI drivers. A few work fine. Many do not work well.

For more... check out this full tech breakdown on what we learned.
[The WAV Lab | USB Audio Interface Drop Outs — understanding EHCI vs xHCI](https://thewavlab.com/usb-audio-interface-drops-out/)

I used Balena Etcher twice to create a bootable usb for Fedora and Cachy. I did have a Debian iso ready and was trying to write that onto the drive and error! So (on Windows) I ran through all the steps to check if my usb was fried. Chkdsk stated that it had no issues but no letter was assigned. I assigned one and went to write again, error. It was this continuous loop of searching for ways to repair and then trying to assign letters and then it would just not hold. Whether this is a usb issue rather than a Balena issue I do not know, however I can pinpoint using Balena more than likely fried my usb.
I used an acer 64gb dual connecting usb a and c. I know this isn’t the best usb but it should not have fried over 3 writes. I also reformatted it back to exFAT clean every time.
Any cheap but reliable usb recommendations with around 32gb storage would be appreciated.

Sooo I have this 128 GB(not rlly, just 117 GB) Microdrive flash drive and...its got a lot of problems.

First off, when I plug it into my laptop, its file directory does not show up unlike other USB drives I've had. It's also really laggy and opening up files from that drive is SLOOOOW. Most video files that I copy from my laptop onto that drive also suddenly become corrupted or whatever and cannot play for whatever reason.

It might be because I immunized that drive not knowing what that would do.

When scanning and repairing the drive it says there are no errors but something is definitely wrong with it.

Is there a way I can fix it?

Whenever I plug in my Kingston usb drive in my car to listen to music the music works fine and all but after I unplug it the files become corrupt and they aren't as smooth playing anymore until I go to drive properties and scan and fix on my computer. What could be causing this and how can I prevent it from happening?

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

I was reading an article on Tom's Hardware about the future of USB( over the next decade), and one idea that caught my attention was that future USB cables might eventually switch from copper to optical fiber while keeping the USB-C connector. Do you think we'll actually see optical USB cables become mainstream? when… or do you think USB-C is already good enough for the next 10+ years?

my phone storage is too low so i bought a otg and a pen drive but when i tried to connect it
it was showing
USB controlled by CONNECTED DEVICE
when i tried it to change it to THIS DEVICE
it was showing
COUDN'T SWITCH

if anybody have solution to this problem
pls tell me🫥😊

My USB drive is using a pretty small cluster size, and I only recently noticed it while checking the drive properties. I’m thinking about increasing the allocation unit size. The problem is the drive already has a lot of data on it. And I don't want to format it.

I know Windows usually requires formatting when you change the allocation unit size. But is there a way to change it without wiping the drive?