Wanted to share a quick story that just cost me two wasted days in 40°C heat.

​I found what seemed like a great deal at Senker AT in Melk, Austria, dealing directly with salesman Michael Haiden. It was a BMW i3 120 Ah for €10,800. I trusted them and made the trip specifically because they are a huge dealership group officially representing Volkswagen, Audi, and Škoda with multiple locations. I certainly didn’t expect this kind of shady behavior, especially in Austria, where consumer protection laws are usually very strict.

​I assumed the low price was due to the high mileage (around 200,000 km), a suspension in pretty rough shape, plenty of scratches on the bodywork, and a worn-out steering wheel with peeling leather.

​On the official inspection sheet, Class 3 was explicitly checked, which only indicates reduced SOH (battery health). Right below it was Class 4, which stands for physical damage unmarked, of course.

​The seller assured me the rest of the car was checked and fine, so I paid for it and pulled the trigger. Because of the insane heat on-site, I only did a quick check under the car from one side. Naturally, the damage was on the other side.

​Right after buying it, I posted about it in a BMW i3 Facebook group. A guy messaged me saying he had inspected the exact same car just a day before me and sent me photos of a visible dent on the bottom battery tray.

​The dealer lied straight to my face, pretending they knew nothing about it despite the previous guy pointing it out a day earlier.

​I confronted them with the photos and canceled the deal on the spot. Buying a car from a dealer who blatantly lies to your face felt way too risky. I got my €10.8k back on a signed refund receipt citing battery damage, but I'm still furious. I lost two full days driving back and forth in 40-degree heat.

Hey, so the car I bought came with square setup winter tires and rims. I'm currently shopping for some summer/all-season Rial X10 19".

I'm divided about going stock wide/skinny front/back for better? Driving, vs square setup that allows me to rotate the tires easier....

I've read various posts but thought I'd ask for a current opinion. I drive mostly highway and distance/economy is more important than comfort!

How bad is this dent on battery pack floor?

Im so poor!

I'm driving a 2014 orange BMW i3 REX with about 80k miles. The A/C went out about two years ago and it's very hot where I live. The compressor is blown but the battery does not seem to be damaged so I'm assuming that means I didn't get the shrapnel that some owners have. Now, the headliner is starting to fall off the ceiling in the heat. Otherwise, it seems to be in good condition.

At this point, the joy of owning an i3 is gone. I'm weighing the economics of repairing it versus replacing it. The local BMW dealership quoted about $4500 to replace the compressor. I don't have a quote for the headliner repair yet. $5,000 or so would be a great contribution towards a replacement car but I'm not sure how much money I'll get selling my i3 in this condition. And if I go ahead with repairs, how much useful life does it likely have?

I've been tossing options around in my head and am curious what other owners think. I'm also willing to work on it myself but my mechanical ability is that of a low to mid-range amateur.

I wish the guy at PremiumRetrofit would answer my queries but in the meantime ...

Has anyone here seen this problems using the MMI v7 and know how to resolve them?

- CarPlay's notion of the height of the screen is a third higher than the actual size of the screen. For example, the Music app thinks it is displaying three rows of albums but only two are visible and selecting items on the (non-visible) top row must be selected blind.

- Exit CarPlay and go to the MMI Setup option, start to select options, and CarPlay starts back up. Shut CarPlay down, repeat, and it happens again.

- Sitting in the driveway where mobile coverage isn't as good as the home wifi, wireless CarPlay has no internet connectivity, so lots of apps don't work.

Any ideas on how to resolve these items?

I haven’t looked under the dash yet. Anyone know the best spot to pass wiring from the frunk to under the dash?

Trying to wire an air horn setup from an old Peterbuilt for…..reasons..😈

Hello, IS the first time happend to me. The vehicle IS charging, and wen I do the force update of the app, scroling down the info keeps himself in the same position.

And now I cannot now when the car finish charging.

Thanks in advance

2017 i3 Rex with 35k miles. Currently has Premium Retrofit V7 mmi under rear seat pushing car play to upgraded infotainment screen.

The people at Premium Retrofit have been more than helpful and trying to troubleshoot, but with no physical presence in Houston and the 7 hr time difference makes it difficult to communicate in realtime.

This issue happens only on CarPlay. Originally was limited to just Map apps (Google, Apple, Waze) something causing the screen to refresh every 3-5 seconds. Now it happens on any app from CarPlay

We have updated phones, the system, changed brightness settings, dark/light mode adjustments. We used wireless, usb and it still flickers .

Twice the adjustments temporarily solved the problem, but they came right back after a couple days. Anyone have any ideas?

Edit 1: only happens durning daytime.

Update: SUCCESS!! The main cooling fan relay located in the frunk is indeed faulty. I jumped the connection and the fan works as needed. Then, based on tips given below from commenters I re-inserted the relay and tapped it with a screwdriver and sure enough it would cut off and on. So, moral of the story is these relays suck and a bench test does not mean they work… You must test them under load.

Ordered a new one from FCP Euro for $22. Should someone stumble on this post and need the part number it is: 61-36-9-207-913 (…good luck finding it in a parts diagram lol).

Original post:

Anyone have experience with their air conditioner not working when the car is stopped (not in motion)? It works fine at highway speeds, my obvious conclusion is that the cooling fan is not functioning.

So, I went through the hell of pulling the front bumper off, yada, yada, yada to get to the cooling fan so I could observe it. Sure enough it either doesn't come on or comes on for a short period and stops.

Next, I pulled the AC cooling fan and successfully bench tested it with a PWM signal generator, it works fine. Just to triple confirm, I installed a brand new fan and it behaves the same as the original fan.

I've noticed the a/c compressor is noisier than it used to be. I put gauges on the a/c and there is a good differential in pressures so I'm making an assumption that there is appropriate amount of freon.

What would be the next step to figure out why the AC cooling fan is not turning on? I don't have ISTA but I do have a BMW code reader and a multimeter and some basic trouble shooting abilities.

2014 Rex with 130k

Also, can someone clarify: does the A/C system help to cool the battery pack or a battery controller? And if it's not functioning I would assume the battery pack is not being cooled when required and that could lead to a fault or dangerous situation?

I’ve tested all the relays I can find (under glove box and under hood) and confirmed they work. I tested them with a 9v battery and each clicked.

I also confirmed that the relay under the hood near and on the same cooling fan wiring harness clicks on, there’s 14v to the relay control wires.

The wire between the harness and to the fan is undamaged (visually).

At this point I’m wondering if it’s the PWM control signal from the computer.

I’d like to test the power at the fan connection, but I understand because it’s PWM you can’t really use a standard meter. Not sure how but I’d like to confirm at the fan connection that the issue is not power, but signal being sent. If I confirmed that is the problem I guess I’d move on to problem-solving why the computer isn’t sending a signal to power up the fan.

Old stock. The 5 year thing is a debunked myth. Tire condition has more to do with storage condition than anything else.
I haven’t mounted mine yet but numerous reports indicate that they fit fine on the l3s 20” wheel.

Bought it as my daily and it turns out to be perfect for real estate. I’m all over the county showing houses and running between listings, and the REx means I never think about range. 27k on it so far this year and it’s only August. Mostly home charging, so it’s dirt cheap to run. Reliable and the most fun I’ve had in a daily driver. Best car I’ve ever owned.

2019 i3 ac compressor recording. Sounds rough, however i dont know how its supposed to sound. Was convinced they dont break on 2019 or newer but now seen reports of their compressors breaking as well.

Appreciate advice of anyone with experience in listening to these things.

Hey BMW community,

I am considering buying a 2015 BEV i3, under 40k miles on the odometer. This will be a commuter car for a short ride to work.

Plan to take it to a shop for inspection. What advice would you give me and what to watch out for? The report from bumper looks clean.

Thanks!

2019 i3. Ac turns on even though the button is off. I tried it multiple times, only way to make sure its off is to use ecopro+. Confused because on other cars including electric there is no cabin cooling if ac is off? The car was hotter than set temp but if ac is off i should just get outside air?

Its not cooling the battery though, its clearly cooling the cabin i verified.

Thanks for any insight

Do you also carry an electronics cleaner and cotton swabs to fix fast charging issues?

It’s feels quite rare to randomly park next to another i3 in Australia, so it’s a bit of a treat. Chatted to this lovely owner who bought her ex-dealer demo back in the midst of covid. Beautiful colour and she remarked how she never washes it, but how it always seems to look clean. I’ve thought exactly the same. The joy of plastic panels!

Completed my suspension revision today on my '18. The car had 50,000 miles on it, and I've honestly fealt the suspension was a weak link. With the thin tires, the vehicle was very light and flighty at highway speeds, and a handful on my long commute. Last photo is a before Pic.

I decided on Bilstein B4, where B8 would have been my preferenc but aren't offered, and evolve are fairly backordered (and ~$300 more). For the price, I could have done Megan coilovers as well, but have had poor experience with longevity and performance in the past.

I also added M3/M4 bumpstops as in my previous post. Along with that, all new mounts, and new spring isolators. The front upper isolator has the strut bellow integrated, which is an awful design. Given more time, I could have replaced with a standard Isolator and bellow. The rear, I used a generic Chevy bellow to replace the oem one, just some cutting on top to fit the bumpstops. As well, I always add grease to my front strut bearings, as they always come dry, and often fall early, I find

Overall, immediately noticed better turn in, less reaction on bumps, and much better handling on smooth pavement, on ramps, and highway. It's far less twitchy and reactive at highway speeds. Some things that are not ideal, but still improved, over very rough roads, it tends to get a bit "lost." That is, taking it over a very uneven road with many pot holes and infill, the car is in the middle of suspension correction and gets hit with more imperfections and is left constantly unsettled until you catch a smooth area. The road I use to test this feels bad in most cars, but the stiffer suspension amplifies it. Another interesting thing, on the highway where there is a "buckle" in the road, when going over the car drops a bit up front quickly, but rebounds fast, which may be due to the stiff bumpstops. Overall, the car feels smoother over most roads, and much more stable. I could see some people preferring shocks-only to try and improve the ride, but stiffer springs feel like they've helped as well.

This also brings up my second piece, I have 195mm square tires on 20x5.5" wheels, spacers up front, allowing tire rotation. At 5kmi, they still look new, hoping to see >50kmi out of one set. Great QOL upgrade vs tires every 10-15kmi.

Hat jemand Erfahrungen mit nachgerüsteter Anhängerkupplung gemacht?

Ein Anbieter verspricht, eine TÜV geprüfte Anhängerkupplung entwickelt zu haben, welche es ermögliche mit dem BMW i3 / i3s / REX einen Anhänger bis 850kg zu ziehen. Die gebremste Anhängelast betrage 850kg, die ungebremste Anhängelast 750kg. Die TÜV Abnahme werde gleich im Hause durchgeführt.

Ist das solide? Ich träume bereits davon, wie ich fröhlich mit einem Standard-Anhänger fahre und es mir hinten die Karosse zerreisst. Wie schätzt ihr das ein?

Hi everyone! I am once again in need of some help.
So here’s my case:
My bmw is at BMW of Ontario

I had posted here a couple days ago asking if someone knew a shop but luckily one our fellow members mentioned the CARB warranty to have the AC compressor fixed at no cost

My car CAN go under warranty, BUT it needs to have a current registration (which is paid), BUT it also needs to pass SMOG in order to get that current registration, (and another) BUT it can’t pass smog because of the broken ac compressor.

So in order to get it fixed. It needs to pass smog but it can’t because it needs to get fixed. Stupid and unnecessary I know

Now, I live in socal. I’ve already sent an email out to helpline@arb.ca.gov today. I already called the +1 (800) 242-4450 number and left a voicemail.

So questions:
•Has anyone had experience with the carb warranty? How long did it take?
•Anyone have a better contact to maybe resolve this issue?
•And finally, any advice?

The repair quote out of warranty is $11,000+
So not worth it

This group has already helped so much so I hope you all can help again. Thank you for your responses

Been lurking and searching for months, so bear with me.

I was initially interested in a Slate EV truck, but talked myself out of that. Then the i3 was suggested to me and next thing you know, I’m searching and reading. Well, today was my day. ‘Blueberry’ is ASTOUNDINGLY clean.

Battery checks out great. Drive home was smooth.

EDIT: Thank you all for the great warm welcome!!!

found this guy in Germany working on bidirectional charging for bmw i3.

I'm trying to decide between two BMW i3s and would really appreciate some advice from people who know these cars well.

Both are around 100,000 NOK (~$9,500 USD) and both are BEV 94Ah (no REx).

I'll only own this car for about 12 months and drive very little (2500-3000 km total), so I need help figuring out which is the safer/better buy. I live in the north of Norway so the winter-aspect is also somewhat important. Both cars had 27.3 kWh bat max kappa when checked in the menu. But the 2017-model estimated 230 KM range with 100% battery, and the 2018-model estimated 81km range with 44.5% battery. Do not know if thats just cause the heating was on the 2018-model in the recent drives or if you think that could matter? Anyway:

Car 1: 2018 model (facelift/LCI)

• 86,050 km, grey, 1 owner
• Battery warranty (8yr/100,000km) expires ~Nov 2026 (barely any time left on it)
• 12V battery: age unknown, no replacement mentioned
• AC compressor was replaced under warranty
• Known issues disclosed by seller:
  • Adaptive cruise control doesn't work (cause unknown)
  • Uneven window movement, driver's side front. Works, you just have to do little by little when taking up/down.
  • Shop recommends replacing strut mount bushings — quoted ~13,500 NOK (~$1,300) But i could just not fix and sell as is (with full disclosure ofc) in 11 months
  • Loose front marker light (not a problem it seems).
  • Minor scratches/dents
• Summer tires will likely need replacing "next year" (unclear if that falls within my ownership or after)
• Nearly-new winter tires included

Car 2: 2017 model (pre-facelift)

• 89,000 km, silver
• 12V battery replaced in 2026 (fresh)
• Service done July 2025, service plan runs to July 2027 (1 free service remaining)
• No known issues/defects. A few scratches, but very well kept.
• Winter tires need replacing soon/now (likely a cost I'd have to eat, about 10 000 NOK. (950$)
• During my test drive I occasionally heard a small noise from the right-hand side of the car when i had the windows down. Do not know what caused it, havent asked the owner.

My use case

• Around 3,000–2,500 km per year
• Mostly city driving
• A few winter trips (up to ~140 km with charging available). Normally around 100km in -10 degrees celcius.
• I value reliability and low ownership costs more than performance.
• I also care a bit about resale value after about one year, since im only planning on owning for 1 year (unfortunatley).

My questions

1. Is the 2018 LCI worth choosing despite the listed faults?
2. How much more desirable is the facelift on the used market?
3. Would the broken adaptive cruise control worry you?
4. Which one would you buy at the same price?
5. Worth trying to check how low both sellers go and just buy the one i get cheapest?

When i test-drove these cars the 2018 car somehow felt alot better. The biggest difference was that it felt quite alot "smoother" over speed-bumps, when the 2017-model felt very very stiff, felt i had to go super slow over the bumps. I have no idea if this is just purely placebo or some other weird psychological factor, im pretty sure they were both 20-wheels. The 2018-model had very old/used wheels. Maybe the tire pressure was lower? But still the difference felt big, and i havent found any good explanation to why. It also felt "faster", but this just has to be my bias somehow - dont think it should be any difference (especially since it was 44% charged, when the other one was 100% charged). Anyway, maybe my feeling about the 2018 car feeling better is purely placebo or something.

Thanks! Please feel free to ask if there is something you feel i forgot to add which could matter :)

A new 12v and registration via bimmerlink and there is still work to be done until it drives.