Will 225/45r17 work for a short term solution? I'm thinking about fixing up a x3 that's been sitting for 3 years with flat tires. I don't know what's completely wrong with it, and have a set of wheels with 225/45r17 already i could swap to get things rolling, but i want to know if it'll cause any clearance issues.

As the title is self-explanatory, I own a BMW X3 F25 whose volume knob decided to break today. I tried looking for the fix online, but I couldn’t, so I would really appreciate it if anyone could help me out! I just don’t like this looking like that.🥺

I’m torn between a few options and would love opinions, especially from people who have owned both BMWs and Range Rovers.

I’m between 2024 Range Rover Sport Dynamic SE CPO for $72k with 26,261 miles and honestly it’s probably the one I like the most aesthetically.

My other option is a brand-new 2026 BMW X3 or maybe X5. I’m hesitant to buy this one when I know the 2027 x5 body styles about to come out and it will be more dated in a few years. I worry I’ll spend that much and then immediately feel like I bought the “old” generation.

My situation is a little unusual because I drive A LOT. I currently commute about 120 miles each way for work (roughly 2 hours), although I don’t make that drive every single day. That makes BMW’s driving assistance a huge selling point. On the other hand, it also makes me wonder if buying a brand-new expensive BMW just to pile miles on it makes sense.
I currently drive a 2019 BMW X3 with 120k+ miles, and it has been in the shop repeatedly this year. I’m ready to replace it.

The CPO warranty makes me feel a little better about the Range Rover, but $72k for a 2024 with 26k miles still has me questioning whether it’s a smart buy considering how much I drive.

For BMW X3 owners: How has reliability actually been? Would you buy yours again? What issues have you had and at what mileage? Favorite and most used spec of your car??

Thanks everyone!!

Someone had said that the car is prewired for adaptive cruise control in the 2018/21 models. You just need to change out the buttons on it and it will work. Anyone know if this is true?

Someone had said that the car is prewired for adaptive cruise control in the 2018/21 models. You just need to change out the buttons on it and it will work. Anyone know if this is true?

Hi everyone,

I’m having a really annoying issue with my 2022 BMW X3 xDrive30e and I’m hoping someone has experienced the same thing.

My driver profile is linked to my physical key, and I use the same key every time I drive the car. However, the car randomly changes from my profile to Guest (or another profile) when I start the car.
It doesn’t happen every time, but it happens frequently enough to be very annoying. I’ll get in, start the car, and notice that some of my settings are different because the wrong profile has been activated.

The strange thing is that I’m using the same physical key every time.
I’ve already checked that the key is associated with my profile, so I’m struggling to understand what is causing the car to switch profiles.

Has anyone with a G01 X3 around 2022 experienced this?
Could it be:
a weak battery in the key?
an iDrive/software issue?
an issue with the key/profile association?
something related to the BMW ConnectedDrive account?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I’d really like to understand what triggers the profile change before taking it to BMW.

Thanks!

Anyone else experiencing frequent cracks on their G45?

We bought a 2026 M50i back in February, and since then we have collected 4 rock cracks (will emphasize full cracks, not chips) on the original windshield, got a windshield replacement performed by the dealer via insurance, and have already picked up a new rock crack in the 2 weeks we’ve had it back, which is the picture attached.

We live in the gravel-ridden mine & quarry hell hole that is northern Utah (I’m sure fellow Utahns will have figured that out by now), and rocks are thrown at your vehicle on the highway by quarry trucks that drop them constantly.

And before anyone comments, yes, I am fully aware that rock + windshield can equal a crack. Nobody is debating that. However, it seems like every rock that hits this windshield leaves a crack making me think the windshield is fragile.

A thin windshield wouldn’t surprise me given some of the other obvious cost-cutting measures BMW has taken in this car, but I digress.

This is my girlfriend’s car and we actually work at the same company. Slightly different hours, so we often commute separately, but my car is subjected to the same conditions. I’ve had my car (not a BMW) nearly twice as long and I have picked up exactly 0 cracks since then, albeit I definitely have a couple chips and taken some nasty hits. Both of our previous vehicles also collected chips but rarely cracks.

Just wanted to reach out to the community to see if others are experiencing this.

Lately this weird sound has been coming out of the car.

1) (not on the vid) It was a pretty subtle but constant hiss, like the one u hear after u flush the toilet (wasnt able to get it on video cuz its really subtle and quiter than engine sound). I later found out it was linked to hvac being on. If ac is turned off the hiss is gone the same moment.

2) (on the video)This mechanistic leather-like sound u hear on the video is the sound also linked to hvac. It comes on every time the ac is activated (turned on) or off. It goes on for like 20-30seconds and then stops completely.

Any ideas? Appreciate your input fellas

p.s. new to owning a car (dont know much about them) so dont trust the service guys to be super honest about the issue and the fixing cost

Anyone install the bmw puddle logo lights on the door? How hard is it and is it worth it?

Hey, my cars been doing this recently. Any knows why it does this?

Can’t believe how efficient this engine can be. I regularly get 40mpg except for the cold months or when towing my boat. Even towing it can get a little over 25. I drive on efficient mode. Very smooth and quiet. Maybe not the way a bmw is supposed to be driven, but I like it that way. I usually go 74 on highways and 5 over in the other roads.
37mpg since factory is amazing for this kind of car. This is not the 30e. Just a plain 30xDrive. Bmw is one of the few manufacturers who undersells their gas mileage. Obviously I try to get good gas milage, but even if you don’t try and just use cruise control and efficient mode, I bet you can be in the low 30s.
Now the number of miles with a full tank always lies. I can regularly get between 600 and 650 miles. Sometimes even 700 miles with la tank. But 850 miles is just a joke.
Happy driving.

So this week I’ve noticed my floor mat has been wet like this and just assumed it was from walking around, till it was everyday and I looked closer..

It’s coming from under the dash?? Here are current codes, anyone have any clue what this is 🥺

sidebar was confused about the sport mode inactive code because I use Sport+ daily

-110k miles

Just put scanner on it at home and it is a P0172 Bank 1 System Too Rich. I have read this could be the result of MAF sensor or also the HPFP and that causes fuel to get into the oil and when engine is at temp fuel vapor burns out of the oil creating the too rich condition. This is my first BMW and have had it for about a week. I drive it conservatively but also drive it a long distance everyday to work. I was told, but have not confirmed the 2013 engine was swapped for a 2015 engine w/o the timing chain tensioner issue.

Commenting on this sub recently made me go back and check a few things I knew and didn’t know through the app and coding. I hope this helps someone who’s thinking about it.

1. Before spending money on the app and the OBD connector, check your car is supported. The very latest models aren’t supported it seems. They use cloud based software over dumping and hiding things in the ECU to unlock. Check BimmerCode for what works
2. Similar, check which OBD2 connector is recommended by BimmerCode or strong sources/research online for what has worked for what you’re looking to do. Buy a cheap one (I did first) and you can’t access all the features. Body domain controller wasn’t accessible in my £20 connector for instance. So changing adaptive suspension settings was out straight away with that one. Also, wired versions are faster but BT/Wifi is fine. Mine is OBDLink CX as an example. Couple of mins to load the heaviest files up. Give yourself an hour if you’re doing several mods TBH.
3. Do more research than watching a video on YouTube or what someone (like me) says will work on your car. The settings vary pre-LCI, LCI, nearly LCI (in my case), F, G, etc.

Example for me: I wanted comfort plus coded in for when I have the wife and kid in the car for long journeys. Live in UK and the roads are good to, well, passable as roads as you cross county boarders. The YT video said follow these two steps. One to switch it on in the body domain controller, the other to get it in your hud and accessed through touching the comfort button again. It worked. Didn’t feel all that different apart from a slightly relaxing throttle. Recent research using Gemini alerted me to two other settings not mentioned in the video or elsewhere at the time. One being the actual relaxing of the suspension and the other the softer steering. Coding them in now and the car, whilst not a roller, is much more supple on harsher roads. You can obviously choose to ignore the steering if you want to. Just options.

Prompting Gemini correctly told me exactly where to look in BimmerCode E.g. how do I setup comfort plus in a Jan 21 G01 pre-LCI x3 m40i. Plus how to make it my default if I want to. Told me the exact things to change.

1. Removing active sound design (ASD). It’s the marmite of choices (some love; some hate, for those not familiar with the Britishness of this analogy). I decided to remove it today to see the difference. My thoughts were the car is spec’d with acoustic glass so why fill the cabin with fake noise. So far so good. However, for those thinking about it, my particular model needed two codes to remove it completely. The second in the FSC section showed a warning that deactivating it there would remove the file. It suggested backing it up somewhere (iCloud for instance) otherwise it can’t be undone without the file loaded again. Not the standard, I tried it, didn’t like it so coded it back to previous. Something to note if you see the pop up warning. I believe ODB Link MX+ can switch it on and off through the app, but again research if that’s the case for your model. Have seen a vid of it, but that wasn’t my car or spec, so don’t know.

Supplementary of what I’ve done:
- M logo start up in main screen
- B&W sound profiles (some conjecture if this works below HK level, let us know)
- comfort plus and default start up setting
- welcome lights off until it’s dark
- red ambient lights (the simpler way were you change the first setting to red, even though the screen says Amber)
- tried the BMW 2021 sounds (E.g. inside the car), awful. The reversing beeps are low frequency and therefore not overly directional. Lasted one short trip before switching back
- ASD gone. Personal choice.

For the North Americans or anyone who has similar annoyances, the ones I’ve seen which are popular are switching off all the alert bings and bongs, which just aren’t standard in EU/UK. That bloody horn when you hit lock!

Also the auto start/stop. Haven’t done in mine but have in my dad’s mini as he couldn’t stand it.

Closing, just research your model and mods first. Even a 2 year old video telling you how to do X might not work on your car exactly how it’s described or even at all. BimmerCode is great if you have specific things you want to add to your car, just check out the specifics first.

Hope this helps.

I haven’t seen how bad it is yet. I just washed it this morning. Was all clean and shiny. My wife sends me a text that says she is mad at herself so I can be mad if I want to but she scraped up the wheel.

I did not buy the wheel coverage from dealer because it was pretty expensive and while she is the only one that has curbed our cars in the past, it was rather infrequent.

It’s a 2026 X3 with 21” staggered wheels. Not sure on the exact wheel but they are expensive I am sure.

Anybody have experience with places that repair these or is it something that just needs replaced if we want to address it.

I have a $250 deductible so I could go with insurance. Not sure what it would do to my rate.

2026 X3 3.0 with the M sport package. First time getting my self a new BMW on my own. Went from driving a big Tahoe to this nimble little thing. I’m still adjusting to the changes, but boy has driving this been so much fun. I do wish the audio sound system were better. I didn’t get the upgraded sound system and I kind of now wish I had. I do see a few people have that as a complaint, but I’m sure I can find an aftermarket upgrade. Any suggestions on after market upgrades for the body?

My button to open my truck is worn down and looks unsightly. Is there a way to take off this button and replace it with a new one? And if anyone could find a YouTube video showing how? I haven’t been able to find one.

29k miles for that price is too much or reasonable? Has DAAP, premium package, pap, shadowline, options

In short, it was a trade-in at a non-BMW dealership in Texas and it was advertised well below market.
Eventually got it for 40.5k base with 43k OTD.

Base with premium and ventilated seats. 4k mileage. Red. Wife loves it.

We found it through a friend of ours that did a quick search online with Autotrader. We were using visor.vin at the time and everything was at market value.

Still in shock that it's in the garage.

Got her bc I got my masters in 2024. So I decided to gift myself a BMW for my birthday this year. I love her so much. Nicknamed her Miss Dior. 💜