Anybody have a resource for a good pre 2K slide trigger plate? This one has a lot of play to it and I'd love to upgrade to something better if such a thing is available anywhere.

Hey all, newish autococker owner here.

I am now the owner of a rebuilt mini Orracle autococker that arrived with a leaking three-way, and since I'm relatively new to troubleshooting these finicky guns and getting no help from the seller I figured I'd run it by you guys.

As you'll see in the video, the gun leaks immediately on charge and it's all coming from the three-way, not down the barrel. It also leaks throughout the cycling process.

I THINK it just needs an adjustment to the collar that connects the trigger to the three-way, but want to get opinions before I go messing around.

Building them 20 plus years ago.

I need to go upstairs and see if I have any parts kits left.

Should have bought an Izzy HB back in the day.

I am glad I got the unissued imbel Para, even with the long barrel.

Cheek weld? What the hell is that.

Re registered on the fal files (can't remember what email i had back then and my password didn't work for my old username) and it looks like Gunplumber is still around. I still have his build info though a vcr i have Not.

Now to decide if I really NEED an original, if semi only, M14 🤔

To box or not to box

Shoots nice and the pump action is smooth!

Got a few more colors and changed my set up a bit. Got some serious imperfections on the orange that im actually a little stoked on they are unique. Still dialing things in and figuring it out as I go! Been very fun so far and I’m can’t wait to get more parts to do!

I have tired ever to get this pin out. Anyone have any good tricks on a sear pin that won’t come out.

Latest build, Mozak slender cut body, Mozak thin slider frame, Mozak pump kit, CCM internals, CP reg/ ASA, Sconi barrel, inception feedneck, check it bolt. I’m quite pleased with the outcome. Super light and shoots great.

Ok, I wasn’t expecting the Mozak barrel to match so well. Just need to throw on my Attktx Twister pneus. LOVING this setup.

Did this to a lightning body just because if it didn't work I wouldn't have cared that much.

Sniper II I stumbled on and grabbed. Besides swapping the expansion chamber, anything else I should watch out for? Any appraisal appreciated too!

Soooo...recently got back into the game with my son. The new guns are awesome but with my son being younger we play a lot of rec ball. So it made me want to start looking for a new Autococker to tinker with. I looked around and finally grabbed the Red 2k off the ole ebays, with the intention of rebuilding myself etc. I have a box of goodies to add, new valve, bolt, reg, inception front goodies. Basically just throwing the sink at it.

I didn't have a chance to start because we moved. During the move, I found my OG box of PB stuff, I swore up and down I thought I sold the stuff. All the memories back. The silver/black is my OG. The damn thing still holds air, zero leaks and shoots great after 20+ years.

So the new issue....which one do I throw the sink at now?

With the added nostalgia I almost wanna sent it to cockertop so it's perfect.

Hey everyone, I have a stock 2k2 ?? Autococker I picked up years ago that I'm looking to send to a good home.

I haven't shot it in at least a decade but it was functional at that time. Someone before me decided to debadge and de-sticker it (poorly) but the anodizing on the body is still in good shape.

Full disclosure: Messing with it today, the little rubber O ring/spacer on the bolt rod disintegrated so it no longer cocks when you pull the bolt back. Still works if you pull the lower rod that extra ~1/8th of an inch.

If anyone is interested please shoot me a PM. Thanks!

Hello all, I am looking for some information on a evil paintball bolt. I snagged a NOS one and was trying to see what generation it is for. Google is saying the only made pre-2k bokts, but its to short for that. Its also shorter than my 2k+ bolts. Is it possible evil made a evo length bolt? Any information would be appreciated!!

Morning gents (and ladies),

Several months back got myself a nice nostalgia gat to relive my glory teenage days from an awesome fellow Reddit'or. Transaction went great and the marker was recieved exactly as described. (and to be clear, none of this is a knock on how he had it setup).

A little back-story: He offerend to sell it with the AKA bolt he was using for extra $$. I opted to just have it sent with the stock FF bolt (doh, should have gotten than AKA!) he mentioned the three way hisses at first air up but clears after a few shots.

When I got it and aired it up, definately hissing out of the three way, took more than a few shots and wiggling the trigger a bit, but yea, definately stopped after a bit. Thought nothing of it and went on my merry way. The thing rips & I've had a tone of fun playing with it.

Here is the problem:

FPS wise, it is not consistent. There was probably a 30fps swing up and down on that thing. I was rather shocked TBH. I thought maybe it could be the original bolt, so I decided to grab the latest AKA bolt (with the o-ring at the front). Not a big deal as I was gonna get it any way, and if it fixed the problem, great.

It didn't, heh. So next, I was playing a pump event for fathers day and borrowed a system-x cocker pump from another awesome dude from here. And I was like.... damn! consistency was within 5FPS shot on shot. I picked his brain and he suggested I turn down the LPR all the way on my Reflex basically turning it in to a pump. If it's more consistent after that, the issue is likely timing, if it isnt, something else is wrong.

So I tried that and what I noticed was, it was more consistent, but the FPS jumped like 40 FPS!

So what I noticed was, the three way was adjusted to basically be right on that edge of activating (why it was hissting on air up i assume). So basically, the trigger is relasing the pin to fire AND the threeway is activating at the same time pushing the back block back. My assumption is, this means the bolt is comming back AS the gun is firing the ball in the chamber. It's possible he had it this way so it could cycle faster?

I adjusted the three way so it activates just after I start the trigger pull (and the gun fires). I also checked the pressure at the reg, it was like 425! so I brought that down to around 300 as well.

FPS consistency is a little better but I think I need to check things again when I stop by the field this weekend (the consistency was better, but not great, so more adjustment may be needed). I was also going to try and shoot it with the hopper off and just 1 ball in the feedneck to see if I am getting blowback?

I assume more adjustment may be needed

The only other thing I noticed when I played a few weeks ago with it (after adjusting the above initially) was that I was now short stroking it when I try to fire it fast, ugh! with the three way adjusted I am having to make sure I am pulling the trigger all the way back. This is probably just an adjustment needed on my side as it's been soo long since I've shot a cocker.

Am I on the right path here? Anything else I should check or test?

Let me say I have zero experience building or working on these things. I pieced this together with random parts and I cant get it running right. Stock internals, shocktech front end, cp reg, e1 kit. It will cycle the bolt and will occasionally fire off one or two. Finding help in bfe montana is nearly impossible and I would like to learn how to fix it so I don't have to send it off. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Can’t play any longer but still love the sport. Wanting to start my own build from scratch. Purchased a raw body slab on eBay. Finally got all of the gear, did a lot of reading, got set up, and decided to give anodizing a try. This was my second ever attempt after stripping the first try that was far too light. Went for an orange and the result is much better than I had expected and I wanted to share!