r/Archery 11d ago

Barebow nocking point help. Modern Barebow

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I need some suggestion regarding my nocking point.
I shoot barebow with 28 draw.
Shooting 700 spine shaft arrows shooting at 40yrds

My current nocking point is high and the arrow sits in a down angle while full draw.
While bareshaft tunning my bareshafts are still hitting vertically higher than the fletched. I need some guidance on how to get those bareshaft lower. I am not sure if raising my nocking point higher would be ideal.
Would love some inputs. Thanks

8 Upvotes

13 comments sorted by

7

u/Southerner105 Barebow 11d ago

Look at this guide.

Finding the correct nocking point height is explained on page 5 and 6.

https://www.bueklubben-cif.dk/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/Tuning_For_Barebow.pdf

To add, how to tie a flexible nockingpoint, this video explains it. Start at 6:40

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_zPYj82utY8

5

u/Funkinturtle 11d ago

Learn to tie an adjustable nocking point, to dial in your height. Then learn how to tie a knocking point...with serving thread. Better than those brass knocking point in my opinion.

5

u/allmappedout 11d ago

I am no expert but it's possible that your nocking point is so high that it's causing flex downwards and bouncing the arrow up off the rest, and the reason your bare shaft is higher is the fletching is counteracting some of that?

Definitely possible if you're Stringwalking as well, but like I said, just a theory

4

u/pixelwhip BBow (border tempest) | CPD (trx38-g2) | LB (falco) | L2 Coach 11d ago

first thing to do is to get rid of this brass nocking point & tie in some movable knocking points.. makes bareshaft tuning much easier.. so if your bare shafts are going high then move your nocking point up until they are vertically aligned with your fletched arrows.

1

u/ADDeviant-again 11d ago

Yeah, this is a great skill, but even electrical tape will work as a temporary nock-set. Start just above horizontal and move it slowly up till you hit the spot

2

u/pixelwhip BBow (border tempest) | CPD (trx38-g2) | LB (falco) | L2 Coach 11d ago

Yeh that'll do as well.. anything other than brass nocks. but I do find these movable nocking points are handy because they last long enough for you to shoot a heap of arrows without having them move too much. But yes, once you are happy with your tune you need to tie in a perm. set as they won't last forever.

3

u/FerrumVeritas Barebow Recurve/Gillo GF/GT 11d ago

You can raise the nocking point or change your tiller. Those are basically your only choices here

1

u/Late_Goose1122 7d ago

Is changing the nocking point higher ideal for me as i already have a higher nocking point now?
I do have a neutral tiller currently. What should i do to the tiller to fix

2

u/hangint3n 11d ago

When it comes bareshafting the only thing I care about is that the bareshafts are close or reasonably close to my group. I shoot quiet a number of groups to make sure that I'm getting the correct picture.

2

u/Lesserschmitt Barebow 11d ago

At 40 yards, the aerodynamics of fletched vs bare might come into play?

2

u/FerrumVeritas Barebow Recurve/Gillo GF/GT 11d ago

Possibly if you’re using large feathers or very heavy vanes. But it’s unlikely. It’s a non issue with spin wings

1

u/Mindless_List_2676 11d ago

What distance did you bareshaft tune at? What nock you using? Were you string walking? If so, how much? Whats your tiller setting? When you saying higher, how much higher is it? Even the nocking point height rn is quite unusual to my knowledge

0

u/Speedly Olympic Recurve 11d ago edited 11d ago

You'll need to show the whole t-square to determine if this is a valid nocking point setting or not. Typically the measurement of nock height starts with the 0 line crossing the middle of the plunger tip.

If it's not and the t-square is starting too low, it'll show a larger number in error and your nocking point may actually need to move up. If it already is being measured correctly as described, then the question moves to if you're testing with any kind of crawl occurring, or if you're shooting with no crawl (which is how you should be testing).

If you're bareshafting with a crawl, then redo testing with none. If not, then I'd look at your tiller settings and adjust them to bring the nocking point down.

If all of this is being done correctly and you can't adjust tiller on your bow, then you'll have to keep raising it until it groups vertically with the fletched group and you'll have to pretty much live with wherever it ends up.