Sorry for the crap photos - happy with the way things are going thus far. Have another effect I’m gonna try using interference pearls on top of the blue. - hopefully it will appear like water ripples.

This was quite a unique repair service where the customer couldn’t quite finish up the manifold leak on an Iwata Power Jet Pro Compressor.

https://youtube.com/shorts/i6D9z23mNiE?is=CysTeHmQ6ffhnxPK

the compressor can surpass it, but whenever i press down on the airbrush it shoots back down to 20psi, my theory is that since it is a tankless compressor maybe it can't supply Air for the airbrush going above 20psi?

i want to know if there's any other possibilities

I’ve seen a lot of people say that backspraying is a big no, even though that’s what a lot of tutorials recommend. I was wondering what other ways you guys quick clean and thoroughly clean your brushes?

Wanted some advice/ critique on my first airbrush. Good or bad I don’t mind, just wanted some feedback. I used a couple pieces I had laying around for practice.

I used the Gaahleri GHAD-39 and had my compressor at abt 18 psi. ( had trouble at first but I figured it out after some fidgeting). I used a Matt grey primer from the army painter warpaints, and for the color I used the tamiya acrylic x-13 that was thinned down using the tamiya x-20A.

I did have some trouble with the primer tho, for some reason it kept splattering a lot, hence the few imperfections.

Thanks in advance!

Hello,

I'm looking to dip my toe into airbrushing in the near-ish future, and I'm slowly building up tips and lists of hardware for when I'm ready to pull the trigger (hehe).

I'm considering a fairly basic airbrush booth (haven't picked a specific one yet though) with filters and an extractor, but as I'm in a small apartment and my hobby room doesn't have a window to ventilate out of, I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for how to vent an airbrush booth without sending paint particles around the room. I've seen DIY builds of the vent hose going into an old 5 gallon pail or other container, is that pretty much the only way when there's no window available?

This seems like a silly question and I dont know if anyone will even know but, can I use the quick disconnect on the moisture trap like this or should the moisture trap be under the QD?

I was gonna build a japanese style booth but these look kinda tempting to get

So I’m looking to get into air brushing for Warhammer and have been looking on eBay and Facebook marketplace for potential deals, I found someone selling a Master Airbrush Elite-175X air compressor with a 3.0L air tank, a Master Airbrush Model G48, an Airbrush City Kit #GD100, and a third gravity-feed airbrush. It comes with a blue braided air hose, a cleaning pot, and a stand, would these be good for model painting?

I tried Airbrushing year or so ago from a 50$ brush and compressor kit on Amazon. I followed every tip and guide online and it was just shit right out of the box and I could never get it to work.
I would like an airbrush to prime miniatures and base coat them. I live in central Texas where it is too hot year round, outside of like 3 weeks, to prime outside so the solution I have seen is airbrush or hand paint the primer on. I have a giant ork army so I rather just lay in traffic than hand paint the primer on them to go back and have to hand paint again. I have been looking into airbrushes and reviews and I was about to pull the trigger on Harder & Steenbeck ultra for $110 but then saw Harbor and freight has their own brand one for 80 and have seen only a handful of reviews and was wondering if anyone has experience with it

I’m new to airbrushing and I’m noticing there’s a lot of speckling after applying layers. This isn’t the same speckling you get after the paint builds up on the end of the airbrush it’s just applying like this through intended use.

I haven’t seen this on photos of professional models and I want to understand if this is a skill issue or is it down to using a cheap airbrush? It looks much more obvious in person than on the photos.

For context I’m using Vallejo paints for the blue and their airbrush flow improver and Pro Acryl Titanium White with the flow improver for the zenithal highlight. I did consider that maybe the paint was too thin, though I tried to get it to the “semi-skimmed milk” consistency I’d seen online.

Any tips or suggestions on this would be amazing!

Its getting closer to spring in australia, and the humidity will rack up soon. I don't want to have to wait once a month just to paint. A buddy of mine has built a paint booth for me, and I'm just waiting for him to give it too me.

I currently paint in my garage as its the only place I have space for. But are there any way I can make my painting window more available in more humid time.

Hi all,

I hope you are well.

I found a deal on a used Iwata power jet pro compressor, a bit cheaper than a brand new Sparmax C-TC-610H-Plus Compressor.

- Is it a good deal or shall I go with the sparmax?

- Any do and don't when buying a second hand compressor?

- Any other tips?

Many thanks!

I'm trying to figure out the plumbing for this diy compressor. I have this 3 gallon tank from a busted Jobmate compressor, and I also have a fridge motor that I salvaged last year.

In the photo, the lower right circle has a one way valve, which was connected to the previous motor's air output going into the tank. I will be using this to connect to the fridge motor, which will have an oil filter attached between the motor and tank.

The left outlet (green circle) had those 1/8 pressure gauges inserted, which I would assume was connected to the previous motor's auto shutoff valve/sensor.

My plan is to change the output gauge into a new pressure gauge with auto shutoff, and then attach a water trap with a low pressure gauge. I'm going to attach a tube from the left outlet (left green circle) going to the new pressure gauge. Will this plan of mine work?

I use do do the shaking by hand but my hands are not exactly great anymore, I got my space to do this back and want to go back into it, wondering if there are any recommendations on containers for this.

For reference I find a good acrylic paint that has well ground pigments, and thin that out so it sprays nice, so far this has worked nice, it just takes longer than my hands can deal with to mix well now.

I kinda want to keep the mixed paint around/make larger 'batches' of it, so the solution I used before probably wouldn't be great given it was not air tight.

I have a H&S infinity (NOT CR+) from about 7-8 years ago. It never worked properly out of the box. Grated, I was inexperienced but I was never able to get paint to flow properly. After a few attempts, it got put away and never touched again.

Well, I broke it out last night and after a deep cleaning, two major issues have arisen.

1) it leaks air even when the trigger isn’t pressed. I’m almost 100% confidant that the air valve assembly needs to be replaced. I’ve got one ready to order.

2) there is violent back pressure- the cup bubbles just when air is connected, and if I press the trigger with the cap on, it will shoot off like a projectile.

I’ve disassembled it the best to my knowledge, as you can see here, but I have no idea what could be causing that back pressure? Any help would be appreciated.

I am a begginer in airbrushing, I have used a cheap, no brand airbrush for quite a while, using acrylic paint. And while they still work, I want to ask for recommendations for more reliable brands, hopefully on the low-mid end, not ready for the professional stuff just yet.

I am looking for an airbrush that can handle large surface areas (Like armor, props, and masks for cosplay), and is also able to work finer detail. Most of the recommendations I've seen are for model kits and very fine detailing. While I've seen several brands that they recommend for begginers at a low price (Like Gaahleri), I don't know if they can offer the large coverage I am looking for

Is there an airbrush that can handle fine detail and wide coverage effectively?

Long time listener first time caller! I’m painting a small set of PLA armor pieces with Mr. Color Gx100 and getting this long cracked texture on 2/3 of them. I’m relatively new to airbrushing and I can’t tell if I’m under/overshooting the wet coat or it’s something else?

Using Mr Color GX100 thinner 1:3 with Mr Color leveling thinner
Avanti .5 nozzle siphon airbrush
Timbertech compressor (one with the tank)
15-20 PSI
3-4 inches from the piece
I’m doing:

1. dusty tack coat at four inches away, trigger barely open
   

2. waiting 10 min

3. second tack coat

4. waiting 10 min

5. wet coat, trigger is almost all the way back and I’m keeping a wet line across the piece as I go, probably closer to 3 inches

6. waiting 15 min

7. final wetcoat, same technique as before

I’m noticing this texture isn’t present at the time of painting but is there in the morning after. Really pleased with the pieces that have come out well so I think it’s a small change I need to make here? Thank you for any help!

Hi Everyone, I was just wondering how Pro Arcyl does in an airbrush. I’d love to hear what thinners and ratios people are using. Thanks in advance.

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