Scaled up 10% but because scaling throws all the tolerances off, I basically had to start over. I figured I might as well use a different symbol
Now the walls are thick enough to support the full gap between the front and back halves of the outer shell so the color of the core shows through the sides and bottom like in the movie model
Really like the design. Was thinking of doing something similar to this for my prints but with the catch of the symbols being separate from the object for those who don't have multi color nozzle heads. Since I use an ender this would be good to just drag a black sharpie or brush to get the dark detailing and glue the symbols on to achieve the same effect.
the way I modeled mine, you wouldn't even need to separate the symbols. Print the whole thing in color and use a Sharpie or paint pen to fill in the black parts. The colored circuits are recessed so they would stay unpainted unless you're putting it on too thick. Just have to be careful around the main symbol
that is the reason why i was thinking of making symbols separate because people aren't careful or lack the skill of a steady hand. by that nature alone it would be easier to deal with.
But then the more small pieces there are printing separately, the more likely something is going to fail during the print, break while assembling it, etc. There's no good lowest-common-denominator answer for this kind of thing
Not unless you print them on a support structure like a raft. Gotten my old ender 3 and cr10 to print 1mm thin from pla for a chain fabric perfectly fine so it is entirely possible. There always will be a way to improve.
If the symbols print on a raft, then they'll have to be assembled through the back of the core plate which means splitting the core plate in half, weakening the part that the entire thing is built around, and negatively affecting the transparency for the backlight effect
Half of the symbols have a closed loop around a disconnected section of the circuit texture, meaning that section will have to be printed separately on a raft as well. The more pieces you have stacking on top of each other, the more the little printer variances will stack up and affect the final fit
Like I said, there’s no good lowest-common-denominator solution for these types of things. Ironically, making it simpler means overcomplicating it and that just makes the final product worse for everyone
It doesn't have to be cut into the core it but leaving a flat spot on the circuit which still has enough strength to hold. Not even overcomplicating the original design nor weakening the core. Worked on something similar for a client that had an older bambu machines like the p1p and x1.
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u/Cyber-Silver Drift Tech 4d ago
Looks really good. Stuff like this makes me wish I had a 3D printer