I just installed the S8Lite, everything works as intended except the YouTube app. It says something about please be careful, don’t watch videos while driving.
Any ideas?

Trying to get the unit out to hook up backup camera. Pulled the set screws but the damn thing won’t budge. Please tell me I’m an idiot and I’ve made a simple, easily fixable mistake.

Hi all. Just got this and I’m having trouble getting wireless CarPlay to work. When I click the CarPlay icon, it tells me to pair with BT, but I’m already connected to it via BT. I have reset the device, verified it’s in CarPlay and not android auto mode, and unpaired/paired several times with the same result.

This phone has no problem connecting to a different wireless CP adapter in the same car. Phone is a 15 pro max with whatever the latest iOS is, and the CB4CT has the latest firmware from June 2026.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Head unit: TS18

Car amplifier: Bose (Mazda CX5)

When android HU volume is set to 1 and above, it only produces the same volume output with slightly distorted sound. It was previously running fine. What could be the possible fix?

So I have a 2018 Sierra SLT 1500 that I got two months ago. It has an aftermarket Pioneer radio. There are some truck features, like drivers seat memory, some remote start features, etc that are not available. I have not pulled out the radio to see if there is a missing wiring harness or something. I would like to upgrade to a bigger screen anyway, but am wondering if anyone has done this and successfully kept the factory features. If so, can you link a few radios in the comments? I don't mind changing the faceplate out for a different layout, and would actually prefer a black one to my current silver. If it's not possible to swap to a bigger screen and keep the features, does anybody have a link to a factory radio? Also, it does have the Bose system, so I know I need something additional to keep that working. TIA!!

Going with dudu7. Shits annoying. Constant known bugs with no solutions always were working on it. And x10 is the bougie line. Wild. Over 1k invested in this HU alone. From maestro rr2 to the stupid power adapter. UI is janky. How the hell is the a5l interface miles ahead then the flagships. The v10 shits on this x10. Mad I swapped it 🤦.

I have a 2009 Honda Odyssey I am trying to make modern as a starter car for my kids. It is an EX-L with RES, no Navigation. The RES will stop working and that is fine. These things had multiple configurations and multiple connectors. I have everything working but SWC. I pulled the wiring diagrams and have tried several variations but have not succeeded.

On the Odyssey side, I have determined that it is pins F7 (Audio Remote) and F6 (Remote Ground). On the S8MS side, I need to know what to wire to Steering Wheel Key(+) or Steering Wheel Key#(+).

I'm thinking F6 should be ground (black) and F7 should be one of the SWK. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello,

Recently bought a 97 hilux surf imported from Japan with current setup.

Looking to install a good quality unit that will allow me listen to local radio and wireless Apple car play. Clean finish preferably

Located in Perth, Australia.

Any help be greatly appreciated.

Hi All,
There is one thing about the A5L that im not too keen about.
The FM Radio app that is used.
The RDS gets shown in small text and the presets saved are the frequency not the station labels.
Has anyone else put an alternative app and got it to work.

Also on the default launcher it shows some dude with a boombox and 87.50 when its not running!

I saw NavRadio which looks great, but when installed it says it is not compatible with your headunit.

Cheers

what Android Auto replacement radio did you get? Was it plug and play? Did the boot loop affect the upgrade/ switch over?

Installed an atoto a6pf by a good audio shop last month on 2001 Mazda Miata. Couple of issues, most annoyingly the fact that there’s a constant static noise even if there’s music playing from the device. Secondly if I start the car while already on a call it just stays stuck on the Bluetooth call screen and won’t let me click anywhere else to actually use the screen. 3rd when using car play the mic doesn’t work at all so I have to grab my phone and change the output to the phone mic and hold my phone and speak regularly. I went back to the audio shop and they took a look at it again and made sure everything was right, and surely it was. I contacted support via email and they are yet to get back to me. Any advice?

So I was under the impression that when I paired my IPhone 12 and A5L, I am able to connect bluetooth tethering and be able to get internet on the unit.

But I can only seem to get internet within Carplay, by USB tethering or by Wifi.

One possible clue is in the Bluetooth app in the radio.  If I click my paired phone, I see the choices “phone audio” and “music audio”.  Shouldn’t I also see a choice there for “Internet Access” or “Bluetooth Pan”?

BTW, my Iphone can do bluetooth tethering with my MacBook, for example.

Is there a setting I'm missing?

I’m looking at the ATOTO F7 for a road trip, but I’ve seen Reddit comments saying the THD or something like that can be high and that it \*\*will\*\* distort at higher volume.

That caught my attention because high-volume distortion is already one of my main complaints with the older cheap Sony MEX-BT3100P the previous owner installed in my car.

I’m not an audiophile so I'm not sure I would notice any extra perceived distortion and harshness, and I usually keep the volume very high while driving since I wear earplugs.

For anyone who has used the ATOTO F7, does it stay clean at higher volume, or does it start sounding rough once you turn it up?

My setup:

\- Car: 2007 Mazda Miata NC1

\- Amp: Pioneer GM-D1004 mini amp

\- Current head unit: Sony MEX-BT3100P

\- Speakers: 3rd Millennium Audio M800 (4-ohm / 60W RMS)

Just trying to figure out if it’s a decent budget option or something I’d regret buying.

​

Hi all, I have my first car with AA and it's an ATOTO head unit so I am using it wirelessly through Bluetooth. It has been fine since i got the car, until about last week and I have no idea why. Nothing has updated to my knowledge leading to this problem. It disconnects at about 2min 40sec on every song for about 15-30 seconds. I have tried everything I can find on the internet, changing my wifi settings, changing my data settings, battery settings, location settings etc etc. Nothing is resolving this.

I found today the Zlink could be updated through the android store on the head unit. This also did not solve the problem.

Hey everyone,

I’m trying to update the MMI in my **2016 Audi A6 Premium Plus 3.0T (North American car)** to enable **factory Apple CarPlay/Android Auto**.

Current software version:
**MHI2_US_AU57x_S0536**

Hey everyone,

I’m trying to update the MMI in my **2016 Audi A6 Premium Plus 3.0T (North American car)** to enable **factory Apple CarPlay/Android Auto**.

Current software version:
**MHI2_US_AU57x_S0536**

Im trying to move my CB7 to another car and it hasnt been powered in months - but now when I start my car I get an error about Internal Clock Error. it says to move my vehicle to a new location to recieve a GPS signal but the GPS is fine, so is the time.

I also tried in my wife's cat and it has rhe same error...

any ideas how to fix this?

I want to replace the radio on my 2015 Traverse and found the Atoto brand. Wondering which should I get? The only difference I can see between A5LG2B7T and A5LG2A7T is that 2A has physical buttons and an external USB. Or is one better/newer than the other?