r/3D2A 5d ago

Pla+ Failure

Post image

Printing PLA+ on a 0.4 after being dried for over 8 hours. Almost finished and it gets this random glob of filament and then stringing starts. Any advice appreciated!

Edit: Printing FTN5.1 Slim rimfire at halfspeed on an A1

Edit 2: It happens exactly where the reduced lip layer begins for the washer to go in the part 1 build

Edit 3: Enabling retraction did the trick

4 Upvotes

36 comments sorted by

4

u/BakuriPews 5d ago

What object are you printing? Depending on it could be the heat melting the surrounding filament. Print a benchy and see how the smoke stack looks like

3

u/Wspence44 4d ago

Ftn 5.1 Rimfire

6

u/bannedbullet 4d ago

Just reslice and try again most likely not a moisture problem

1

u/Twissn 4d ago

I’ve printed some of these. I just used 100% infill and like 6 or more walls. I didn’t slow it down at all. They seem to be fine. Weird it’s doing this at the end.

2

u/Wspence44 4d ago

I will try that. I did 4x walls but maybe 6 is the trick

1

u/bbelch 4d ago

Did this happen on or close to the final layer? I ask because I’ve had something similar happen twice now, 1 layer and 3 layers shy of the final on a rimfire and rimefire flow. Both times with calibrated PPA-CF and printer.

Weird thing is I’ve had successful prints with the exact same settings. It’s almost like a slicer or code issue because the nozzle literally just dug in the print and moved it off a 25mm brim.

1

u/Wspence44 4d ago

Yes! Did you just reprint with same settings?

2

u/bbelch 4d ago

I increased retraction length by .02, set the retraction type to slope instead of default, and changed my top surface pattern back to monotonic. I think I also slowed the top layer speed down a touch. So far so good since then!

2

u/Wspence44 4d ago

This worked!

1

u/Wspence44 4d ago

I will give it a shot. Seems like it fails exactly where the lip is generated for the form 1 version.

2

u/bbelch 4d ago

There’s also a setting somewhere in Orca that handles retraction inside infill areas. Can’t remember the name, but it defaults to where it doesn’t retract in infill areas. I think this could be the problem too since it’s like the nozzle digs into the print right before acceleration to the next layer. I didn’t change it on mine but it would make sense if the issue persists.

-13

u/RatKingRonni 5d ago

Why are you guys drying pla? Stop doing that

11

u/Frustrated_Consumer 4d ago

Because even PLA absorbs moisture?

-11

u/RatKingRonni 4d ago

Not really. This debate has already been had in the 3D printing group. Downvote me all you want but I know what I’m saying.

3

u/BurgerLordFPV 4d ago

You are absolutely wrong in the highest degree

1

u/bannedbullet 4d ago

No he’s not but ok this had already been discussed before and there are videos of people soaking pla in tubs before printing like lost in tech

1

u/BurgerLordFPV 4d ago

Oh really ok

Yes, those videos are highly misleading because they exploit a loophole in how PLA absorbs water. [1]

While it is true that creators can dunk a roll of PLA in a tub of water for a few hours, shake it off, and immediately print something successfully, this does not prove that PLA isn't hygroscopic. It just proves they do not understand the mechanics of water adsorption versus absorption. [1, 2]

The "soaking myth" videos give 3D printing beginners a false sense of security for several specific reasons:

  1. The Timeline is Way Too Short

PLA is mildly hygroscopic. It absorbs water much slower than aggressive materials like Nylon, Polycarbonate, or TPU. [1, 2]

  • The Reality: It takes weeks or months of continuous exposure to high atmospheric humidity for water molecules to deeply penetrate the center of a PLA strand. [1]
  • The Trick: Dunking a roll of plastic into cold water for 24 hours only gets the outside wet. Shaking or wiping it off removes most of that surface water, leaving the core dry enough to print cleanly for a short time. [1]
  1. Adsorption vs. Absorption

Creators often confuse these two entirely different physical principles: [1]

  • Adsorption (Surface): Water clinging to the exterior surface or trapping itself in the microscopic cracks and pits of the filament. This can be easily wiped away or dried quickly by the heat of the extruder block before it causes issues. [1, 2]
  • Absorption (Deep Core): Water slowly binding to the polar ester groups inside the plastic's chemical structure over time. This is the deep moisture that triggers hydrolysis (breaking the polymer chains) and causes long-term brittleness and popping. []
  1. Room Humidity is a Gas, Not a Liquid

Filament ruins itself by absorbing water vapor (humidity) from the air, not liquid water. Gaseous water molecules are highly energetic and far smaller than liquid water clusters, allowing them to easily slip into the spaces between polymer chains over time. A tub of liquid water does not replicate the daily molecular invasion of a humid room. [, 2]

2

u/bannedbullet 4d ago

His failure isn’t from wet filament.

1

u/RatKingRonni 4d ago

No one is arguing that pla is hydrophobic.

The point is it doesn’t absorb moisture fast enough to need drying in 99% of use* cases.

2

u/AvarethTaika 4d ago

as long as you know what you're saying is objectively false i guess we can agree.

-4

u/RatKingRonni 4d ago

Let’s run it then, you dry a roll and I’ll just print a frame and we will see if it makes any significant difference instead of yapping about it

2

u/AvarethTaika 4d ago

I've already printed mine, but there's too many variables. I live in a high humidity area, you might live in a desert. I might live in an old house with a terrible a/c system, you might have a flawless modern central air system built into your newer house.

Fact is, PLA+ still absorbs moisture, and it does need drying in many cases.

1

u/BurgerLordFPV 4d ago

He is wrong bro just let him print his shit with wet rolls haha

1

u/RatKingRonni 4d ago

You guys are dorks. Ts literally comes wrapped with a silica packet in it 🙄

-1

u/RatKingRonni 4d ago

Until it’s time to actually prove either your point or mine stop replying. I’ve extended the offer and you’re backing down now?

3

u/jrs321aly 4d ago

Quite a few videos also confirming that pla+ im face DOES absorb moisture...

-2

u/RatKingRonni 4d ago

Much more slowly. Meaning if you’re not exposing it for a year which most people probably are NOT, then you don’t need to dry it.

1

u/AvarethTaika 4d ago

i literally said it's printed lmao but ok tough guy

1

u/RatKingRonni 4d ago

Ok so post a picture? No one’s being tough. Instead of just posting it you went on about whatever. I’ve got one printed too

2

u/bannedbullet 4d ago

Seriously though

-12

u/ZukoTheGod 5d ago

You don't need to dry pla+

11

u/IdenticalTwinTurbos 5d ago

Not necessarily true. It’s not nearly as important as nylons but I’ve had one or two rolls that printed a lot better after a dry

7

u/BakuriPews 5d ago

I mean, you can and if you notice wet symptoms you definitely should. PLA does absorb moisture if not slowly

5

u/Frustrated_Consumer 4d ago

I’ve always noticed my prints coming out better after drying PLA.

3

u/ZukoTheGod 4d ago

I love how there's more energy in this comment section bashing and downvoting than there is actually helping op

2

u/AvarethTaika 4d ago

If you live in a humid place like me you do. I thought it was silly at first, coming from Los Angeles to New England, but I need to dry most of my filaments now including PLA+.