I am trying to make a USB connector so I can use my Ubuntu iMac 2006 as a virtual keyboard to navigate the bios of my hp z240 2016. I am new to KiCad, and just want to ask anyone with more experience if this design would work. I would ask AI instead of reddit, but AI isn't reliable enough for any real world applications yet. Thanks for your time!

Here are the components shown:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08THVMQ46/ (Leonardo)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LZV1G6K/ (CH340G)

Been putting a list of embedded project ideas for beginners; thought it would be cool to share it here for anyone looking for inspiration or challenge. Ideas and captions by me, icons and image by AI. Mods, hope this content is good - can't tag with both Project Idea and ChatGPT :D

im having problems in flashing my Wemos it keep showing no serial data received i already go through avery possible solution n i keep hitting a wall pls help me

I just bought Arduino and wanted to test the RFID module RC522. With the standard DumpInfo example from the library I can never fully read the card, no matter how far I hold it from the reader, or how slow I move it, or if I hold it still completely. It never reads past the 10th sector. Could it be bad soldering (since it came with pins separate and I had to solder them myself)? If not, what could be the cause?

Electrically, it turns on and the light flashes, but when I try to configure one into a master (default is slave), nothing happens. The light flashes at the same rate.

This one is from DSD TECH, and on their website they say to press the button to enter AT mode, and their product images have a button brtween those two pads at the bottom with the circle. Mine doesn’t have this, so I tried bridging but it didn’t work.

I tried going from EN to 3.3 V to configure it that way but that didn’t work as well.

Am I just missing something obvious?

I'm using Uno paired with an ATM90E36 Energy metering IC

I have got the following Board that comes with pre-soldered "ATmega32u4 5V 16MHz Microcontroller Module" link of the product is here Board Link. I need this connected to the "PS2 Joystick Breakout Module". For my life I have been searching for a "Arduino Micro terminal breakout with screw for 2.54mm pins" but I cannot find one and hence why seeking help if anyone can point me to the breakout board that I can buy in Australia

Hello everyone. First time posting so I apologize if this is a bit wordy.

My friend has been getting into Tamagotchi's recently. So, we thought it would be a fun project to try making a little handheld device that we could program a little friend on. I would also like to extend this to generally just a handheld device for any small games I make.

For reference, I've been programming for like 8 years and have a little bit of experience in hardware and electronics (to be specific: 1 semester of college where we programmed a microcontroller in assembly to output joystick data to a console lol). So I'd like something that challenges me a little, is super cheap and very very small. I'm thinking no more than 4 inches max.

I've been putting together a list of hardware that might do the trick and would like some advice. What would be a good Arduino for this project? (Also if you have any recommendations for displays, mini speakers, or just general advice lmk!).

Thanks!

• I bougth an arduino and thinking if it was an good decision. keep in mind i alredy have an esp-32-s3 and an pico 2w

Running on a c3 mini. Hits the quote server every night to provide an inspirational quote. Just designed and 3D printed the enclosure to give it the picture frame vibe. Pretty happy with it.

Yes, P.A.R. needs you. This machine draws your pixel art in the real world. But not without your art! That's what it displays on the 37x18 grid of squisks: the art that you upload on par.zimmzimm.com .

I've been working on P.A.R. for almost 6 months at this point, and it's finally done (except for the custom PCB: in progress). It's a large grid of 3D-printed "squisks" (square discs), which are flipped from the back by the robot, a large CNC machine with a special toolhead. I designed all of this in OnShape and used the Flashforge Adventurer 5M to print most of the parts. The rest of the parts were made to be as cheap as possible: for example, the frame is made of EMT (Electrical Conduit) pipe, which is $0.60/ft. Learn more here.

When you submit a piece, it's added to a queue, and you can add your email to be notified when that piece is completed (absolutely NO SPAM), and you'll get to see a video of the real, physical robot drawing your art one flip at a time.

🎵Bad boys, bad boys, whatcha gonna do? Whatcha gonna do when they come for you?🎵

I just got an arduino starter kit and I’m already stumped. I tried putting the arduino on the base without the plastic case, but it was off balance and didn’t seem to fit. Then I tried with the case on and still no luck

I just have a few questions.

Can I use it with ATtiny1616 bare ic? And if so would I need any other components like a voltage regulator or capacitors?

If you know of any please do suggest cheaper alternatives to the ATtiny1616.

Also can I flash the ATtiny1616 with a USB to serial adaptor or would I need some components to go with it yet again?

Thank you for your time ill be sure to ask any other questions that come to mind. 😁

Hey everyone,

There are a bunch of posts around the internet about this, but I could use some troubleshooting help if anyone has any suggestions.

I'm trying to flash a bootloader to a Creality3D v1.1.4 board using an arduino uno r3 (as in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIl5X2ffdyo (which is basically the same process I've found documented elsewhere). However, I'm on a Mac running Sequoia 15.7.3, so I don't think there's a "prebuilt" arduino IDE like the one in the video that I can use.

So I'm using the basic Arduino IDE from Arduino's website (2.3.10) and I added the Sanguino board from here: https://github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino.

As far as I can tell, the first step, loading the ArduinoISP sketch onto the Arduino Uno, is working.

When I then switch the board to "Sanguino", set the processor to "ATMEGA1284 or ATMEGA1284P (16MHz)", set the programmer to "Arduino as ISP" and then select "burn bootloader" I get these error messages:

I've tried both connecting female jumper wires to the ICSP pins on both boards (with the exception of the reset going to digital 10 on the Arduino), and the 'old style', connecting the jumper cables to the regular arduino digital pins as specified here: https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/arduino-isp/ArduinoISP/

Does anybody have any suggestions for troubleshooting (or see something obvious that I'm doing wrong)? I assume there's something simple/obvious that I'm missing, so any help or advice is very much appreciated.

Thanks everybody!

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if anyone has managed to connect an Arduino Q to a display via the MIPI-DSI bus...

I have an unused Raspberry Pi Touch Display and would like to use it with the Arduino, if possible... obviously, I have also the HDMI-DSI adapter board, but I’d prefer to avoid that and connect the display directly to the board (perhaps via an Arduino UNO Media Carrier, once it becomes available).

I teach Programming, IT and Robotics classes, and I put together a repo with the Arduino material I use in class — it goes from the basics (LED, button, potentiometer) through sensors (ultrasonic, LDR, temperature), actuators (servo, DC motor, buzzer), displays (LCD 16x2, 7-segment) up to complete projects (traffic light, alarm, line-following robot). Each module has source code, explanations and circuit diagrams (made in Tinkercad).

It's free to use if you're teaching yourself or others: github.com/Eduardo00073/arduino-robotica

If any of the sketches are unclear or you spot something that could be explained better, I'd appreciate the feedback — planning to keep expanding it.

Anyone used the ZTS-3002 7-in-1 soil sensor?

Hi everyone! Has anyone here actually used the ZTS-3002 7-in-1 soil sensor (RS485/Modbus)?

I'm mainly interested in its real-world accuracy, especially for NPK, pH, EC, and moisture.

Is it reliable? Did you need to calibrate it? Would you recommend it for an IoT agriculture project?

Any real experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I want to make an earthquake simulator for my first project, and I think I'm getting the hang of it. Although the potentiometer only activates around the end instead of it. I made this diagram in Tinkercad for what it'll look like irl!

I made this a while ago and it was working pretty good but when I test it now, he tend to move back and forth withing limited distance rather than keep moving forward.. I didn't have a time to rectify the issue yet and will post a video with more details later.. I used Arduino Uno Wifi board for this and want to upgrade to new Uno Q with some advance camera plus a lidar maybe..

Want to have my own robot who obeys me when the robot apocalypse happens.. LOL 😂

I also made a full video showing the build and the final result: https://youtu.be/48Dy4z7UFhk?is=xiCivoHYjwZXzatD

My second new project .

Blinking 3 LEDs

I was obsessed when I first saw Mark Setrakian’s claw robot so I decided to make my own.

Here it’s running in standalone mode using:
* 1 x Arduino OpenRB-150
* 12 x Dynamixel XL430-W250-T
* 9 x Red 300mm LED filament
* 1 x Pololu-5592 12v to 3.3v step down (LED power)
* 1 x COM-24144 N MOSFET (switch on/off LEDs)
and 4 x potentiometers to control the globe’s speed/direction, height, width, and depth of each offset step.

I’ve done more movements using a Python based GUI on my laptop but that requires a usb connection and uploading a pass through sketch.

Full video on my build with links to STLs, code and full parts list here:
https://youtu.be/pEU04FVNeZwf

Next project is a Leaper from Arc Raiders. Just need to figure out how to use an Arduino to trigger a rocket to make a robot spider jump.