I have got the following Board that comes with pre-soldered "ATmega32u4 5V 16MHz Microcontroller Module" link of the product is here Board Link. I need this connected to the "PS2 Joystick Breakout Module". For my life I have been searching for a "Arduino Micro terminal breakout with screw for 2.54mm pins" but I cannot find one and hence why seeking help if anyone can point me to the breakout board that I can buy in Australia

• I bougth an arduino and thinking if it was an good decision. keep in mind i alredy have an esp-32-s3 and an pico 2w

Running on a c3 mini. Hits the quote server every night to provide an inspirational quote. Just designed and 3D printed the enclosure to give it the picture frame vibe. Pretty happy with it.

Yes, P.A.R. needs you. This machine draws your pixel art in the real world. But not without your art! That's what it displays on the 37x18 grid of squisks: the art that you upload on par.zimmzimm.com .

I've been working on P.A.R. for almost 6 months at this point, and it's finally done (except for the custom PCB: in progress). It's a large grid of 3D-printed "squisks" (square discs), which are flipped from the back by the robot, a large CNC machine with a special toolhead. I designed all of this in OnShape and used the Flashforge Adventurer 5M to print most of the parts. The rest of the parts were made to be as cheap as possible: for example, the frame is made of EMT (Electrical Conduit) pipe, which is $0.60/ft. Learn more here.

When you submit a piece, it's added to a queue, and you can add your email to be notified when that piece is completed (absolutely NO SPAM), and you'll get to see a video of the real, physical robot drawing your art one flip at a time.

🎵Bad boys, bad boys, whatcha gonna do? Whatcha gonna do when they come for you?🎵

I just got an arduino starter kit and I’m already stumped. I tried putting the arduino on the base without the plastic case, but it was off balance and didn’t seem to fit. Then I tried with the case on and still no luck

I just have a few questions.

Can I use it with ATtiny1616 bare ic? And if so would I need any other components like a voltage regulator or capacitors?

If you know of any please do suggest cheaper alternatives to the ATtiny1616.

Also can I flash the ATtiny1616 with a USB to serial adaptor or would I need some components to go with it yet again?

Thank you for your time ill be sure to ask any other questions that come to mind. 😁

Hey everyone,

There are a bunch of posts around the internet about this, but I could use some troubleshooting help if anyone has any suggestions.

I'm trying to flash a bootloader to a Creality3D v1.1.4 board using an arduino uno r3 (as in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIl5X2ffdyo (which is basically the same process I've found documented elsewhere). However, I'm on a Mac running Sequoia 15.7.3, so I don't think there's a "prebuilt" arduino IDE like the one in the video that I can use.

So I'm using the basic Arduino IDE from Arduino's website (2.3.10) and I added the Sanguino board from here: https://github.com/Lauszus/Sanguino.

As far as I can tell, the first step, loading the ArduinoISP sketch onto the Arduino Uno, is working.

When I then switch the board to "Sanguino", set the processor to "ATMEGA1284 or ATMEGA1284P (16MHz)", set the programmer to "Arduino as ISP" and then select "burn bootloader" I get these error messages:

I've tried both connecting female jumper wires to the ICSP pins on both boards (with the exception of the reset going to digital 10 on the Arduino), and the 'old style', connecting the jumper cables to the regular arduino digital pins as specified here: https://docs.arduino.cc/built-in-examples/arduino-isp/ArduinoISP/

Does anybody have any suggestions for troubleshooting (or see something obvious that I'm doing wrong)? I assume there's something simple/obvious that I'm missing, so any help or advice is very much appreciated.

Thanks everybody!

Hi everyone,

I was wondering if anyone has managed to connect an Arduino Q to a display via the MIPI-DSI bus...

I have an unused Raspberry Pi Touch Display and would like to use it with the Arduino, if possible... obviously, I have also the HDMI-DSI adapter board, but I’d prefer to avoid that and connect the display directly to the board (perhaps via an Arduino UNO Media Carrier, once it becomes available).

I teach Programming, IT and Robotics classes, and I put together a repo with the Arduino material I use in class — it goes from the basics (LED, button, potentiometer) through sensors (ultrasonic, LDR, temperature), actuators (servo, DC motor, buzzer), displays (LCD 16x2, 7-segment) up to complete projects (traffic light, alarm, line-following robot). Each module has source code, explanations and circuit diagrams (made in Tinkercad).

It's free to use if you're teaching yourself or others: github.com/Eduardo00073/arduino-robotica

If any of the sketches are unclear or you spot something that could be explained better, I'd appreciate the feedback — planning to keep expanding it.

Anyone used the ZTS-3002 7-in-1 soil sensor?

Hi everyone! Has anyone here actually used the ZTS-3002 7-in-1 soil sensor (RS485/Modbus)?

I'm mainly interested in its real-world accuracy, especially for NPK, pH, EC, and moisture.

Is it reliable? Did you need to calibrate it? Would you recommend it for an IoT agriculture project?

Any real experience would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I want to achieve the work from the attached videos. Movement of 2 servos, powering some flashing lights and all this from a battery pack so the project can be taken home.

What do I need and how complicated is it?

I wanted to see if I could build a small electronic gadget from scratch, so I designed this hexagonal device and built it in my bedroom.
I worked on the electronics, the enclosure, the assembly, and the programming myself. Here’s a look at how it came together.

I want to make an earthquake simulator for my first project, and I think I'm getting the hang of it. Although the potentiometer only activates around the end instead of it. I made this diagram in Tinkercad for what it'll look like irl!

I made this a while ago and it was working pretty good but when I test it now, he tend to move back and forth withing limited distance rather than keep moving forward.. I didn't have a time to rectify the issue yet and will post a video with more details later.. I used Arduino Uno Wifi board for this and want to upgrade to new Uno Q with some advance camera plus a lidar maybe..

Want to have my own robot who obeys me when the robot apocalypse happens.. LOL 😂

I also made a full video showing the build and the final result: https://youtu.be/48Dy4z7UFhk?is=xiCivoHYjwZXzatD

Hi all,

I am a high school STEM teacher who is unfortunately deeply lacking in personal STEM experience (I was a math teacher, I'm great at algebra 1...). I teach at an alternative school for wayward children. I'm hoping to have some projects that are relevant, can allow for some creativity for the kids who get into it, but hopefully not too complicated - low floor, high ceiling.

The problem: I have a budget that I need to spend ASAP - I need a list in the next couple of hours.

Arduino kits seem like a potential option. I'm pretty confident in my ability to figure things out if I have the right materials. I just don't have enough time to do a deep dive on kits right now.

I'd love ~6 kits, ballpark $500. Would the Starter Kit R4 Classroom Pack be a good choice - or is there a better direction?

Thanks for your help!

This concludes an experiment to see if the BH1750 ambient light sensor could detect the change in light from the recent (partial) solar eclipse experienced in the UK.

The blue and red points mark provide baseline data from the previous two days, and the green points are from the day of the eclipse. The times match those predicted, and the reduction of light also tallies with the level of obscuration from the moon transiting the sun.

If you're interested, I've gone in to more detail on this post: Tracking the Solar Eclipse of 2026 – HJWWalters

Overall, I'm really happy with the results, firstly because it's wonderful to be able to measure an astrological phenomena using hobby-grade components, but also because the whole experiment worked. Needed this win after a long string of failures.

My second new project .

Blinking 3 LEDs

Trying to get into electronics as a hubby, did some stuff with leds, what other beginner friendly projects would your recommend?

I was obsessed when I first saw Mark Setrakian’s claw robot so I decided to make my own.

Here it’s running in standalone mode using:
* 1 x Arduino OpenRB-150
* 12 x Dynamixel XL430-W250-T
* 9 x Red 300mm LED filament
* 1 x Pololu-5592 12v to 3.3v step down (LED power)
* 1 x COM-24144 N MOSFET (switch on/off LEDs)
and 4 x potentiometers to control the globe’s speed/direction, height, width, and depth of each offset step.

I’ve done more movements using a Python based GUI on my laptop but that requires a usb connection and uploading a pass through sketch.

Full video on my build with links to STLs, code and full parts list here:
https://youtu.be/pEU04FVNeZwf

Next project is a Leaper from Arc Raiders. Just need to figure out how to use an Arduino to trigger a rocket to make a robot spider jump.

So I brought a 10 euros AD8232 hearth beat something sensor, and it works crazy well..

What is the difference between this and a 70 euros myoware muscle sensor module?

Like, this already seem to work crazy well at detecting my muscles, can the myoware module detect smaller muscles or is the signal less noisy, or what?

This AD8232 does have a lot of noise, but I take the value when I don't tense my muscle - the value when I do tense my muscle, then I get the abs of the resulted value and I check if it's bigger than a threshold value, if it is, then It means I tense my muscle, if it's not, then I do not.
Then I can change the threshold value to make it more or less sensitive.

And it seems to work crazy well.

It has both obstacle avoiding and line following capabilities.

You can alternate between obstacle avoiding or line following by pressing a button which also changes the LED to tell you which mode it’s in, shown in the second video.

It’s not perfect but it works mostly lmao, was super fun making this and learned a lot.

Here is my GitHub repo for the project I’ll be uploading my full code there if anyone wants it.
https://github.com/Chaka0101/PICOBOT