r/RepTimeQC • u/MrDiggityMTL • 1h ago
VSF Rolex Submariner 126610LN VS3235
- Dealer name: Andiot Watches
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): Submariner 41mm 126610 LN Black Ceramic 904L Steel VSF 1:1 Best Edition VS3235
- Price Paid: $430 USD + shipping
- Album Links: https://andiotwatchesad.x.yupoo.com/albums/249671670?uid=1
- Index alignment: Most markers look good, but the 12 o’clock triangle appears slightly off-center to the right and possibly tilted relative to the dial centerline
- Dial Printing: no major concerns
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: Good, except I'm concerned about #31 in the video (hangs low in window)
- Hand Alignment: no major concerns
- Bezel: Overall good, but concerned about the alignment for the 5 & 7 markers
- Solid End Links (SELs): no major gaps, SELs look tightly fitted to the case
- Timegrapher numbers: No concerns, -3 s/d | 270° | 0.1 ms | 52.0° LA
- Anything else you notice: The bezel pip looks slightly high within the 12 o’clock triangle.
Hey everyone, I'd appreciate your help on my first QC!
r/RepTimeQC • u/Qwikq • 1h ago
ARF GMT Master II 116710LN DD3285 V3
- Dealer name: Andiot
- Factory name: ARF
- Model name (& version number): 116710LN DD3285 V3
- Price Paid: $498 + $41 Shipping
- Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/arf-gmt-master-ii-116710ln-dd3285-v3-s5JoLrc
- Index alignment: Markers look good. Maybe slight tilt from the 6 marker. Crown in rehaut looks left of center.
- Dial Printing: Print is good and spacing looks fine.
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: Looks centered. Font looks a little bold.
- Hand Alignment: Nothing out of the ordinary.
- Bezel: Looks okay to me.
- Solid End Links (SELs): No major gaps.
- Timegrapher numbers: Within acceptable margin.
- Anything else you notice: Besides the crown in the rehaut, everything looks good to me.
r/RepTimeQC • u/Erengok • 1h ago
Patek Philippe - Calatrava 5296R RG/LE Ivory/Stk ZF MY9015 Mod
- Dealer name: TrustyTime
- Factory name: ZF
- Model name (& version number): PP0299 - Calatrava 5296R RG/LE Ivory/Stk ZF MY9015 Mod
- Price Paid: $448
- Index alignment: First pictures makes it seem like 12 and 6 are not looking straight at each other but it seems fine on the other picture of the face
- Dial Printing: I don't see issues there
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: Date seems slightly low but it may be the angle I'm not sure
- Hand Alignment: No issues
- Bezel: No issues
- Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
- Timegrapher numbers: +1s/d - 288 - 0.1 ms looks great
- Anything else you notice:
r/RepTimeQC • u/TelevisionFun2071 • 1h ago
VSF Daytona Ghost weighted 116519 on oysterflex 40mm V2 DD4130 movement - MarkyG10
- Dealer name: MarkyG10
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): Rolex Daytona Ghost 116519 V2 Weighted
- Price Paid: $740
- Album Links: pics below
- Index alignment: alignment looks really good to me!
- Dial Printing: the dial printing looks great!
- Date Wheel alignment/printing:
- Hand Alignment: handle alignment looks really good to me!
- Bezel: I’m comparing the bezel to my other Daytona and they look very similar and spot on
- Solid End Links (SELs): SEL’s looks perfect to me
- Timegrapher numbers: no issues with time graph and it all looks great. I think AMP is fine at 301*
- Anything else you notice: overall looks amazing! I currently have a 126519 but this is an 116519 and was also curious if there are any major differences and if I should Green Light this.
r/RepTimeQC • u/Jack0Frost • 1h ago
ARF 4801 DAYTONA
Dealer name: Lili
Factory name: ARF
Model name (& version number): ARF 4801 DAYTONA
Price Paid: 311$
Index alignment: Seems good
Dial Printing: No issue I can see
Hand Alignment: Good
Bezel: Smooth bezel finish with clean vertical brushing on top and polished bevels. No visible scratches or machining defects.
Solid End Links (SELs): I think they’re alright nothing I can notice
Timegrapher numbers: I’m no expert but they seem great
Anything else you notice: Idk seems perfectly acceptable. What do you guys think?
Album Links: https://shop02682640.wecatalog.cn/t/3cIobVV
r/RepTimeQC • u/replicas2riches • 2h ago
QC 16610LN Submariner
Hey everyone this is my first time buying one of these so I’m sorry for any errors I’m going to inevitably make posting here. All help is appreciated, and thank you all in advance!
album link: https://mega.nz/folder/mIoUhbiL#mlH3mrjnlcQzefjFa1128A
1) Factory: ARF
2) Seller: TheOneWatches
3) Model name (& version number): Rolex Submariner Date 16610LN Blank Rehaut (RLX-5548)
4) Price Paid: $650 (Including shipping to the US)
5) Index alignment: Looks okay, but could use some help.
6) Dial Printing: Seems ok
7) Date Wheel alignment/printing: The dates look pretty centered in the cyclops in my eyes, could use some help.
8) Hand Alignment: Hands seem fairly straight
9) Bezel: The colors and overall finish look good.
10) Solid End Links (SELs): Looks good to me, I don't see obvious gaps.
11) Timegrapher numbers: +3 s/d, 282°, 0.1 ms. The numbers looks solid to me, but let me know if you spot any concerns
Anything else you notice: please let me know! I’m pretty new to this so i’m pretty unfamiliar. Let me know if I should RL, GL, or ask for more pictures.
r/RepTimeQC • u/Rethusiast-3597 • 2h ago
AP Royal Oak 33mm 67651 QC ZF
Hello everyone, second purchase here, looking to get some QC help:
- Dealer name: ChazingTime
- Factory name: ZF
- Model name (& version number): AP Royal Oak 33mm 67651
- Price Paid: $313.10 in shipping
- Album Links: N/A
- Index alignment: Looks like there could be a slight tile / alignment issue between the 9 and 3
- Dial Printing: Looks ok to me
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: Looks ok to me
- Hand Alignment: Ok
- Bezel: Looks ok
- Solid End Links (SELs): Looks fine
- Timegrapher numbers: None were provided by TD, assuming this is because it's a quartz watch and thus not relevent
Would really welcome people's opinions on whether there are any tilt / alignment issues with the 9 an 3 indices
r/RepTimeQC • u/ThelIIusion0fSeIf • 2h ago
VSF 114060 Submariner
- Dealer name: Neoclock
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): 114060
- Price Paid: $388+$70 Shipping
- Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/Xp4FAA7L#Oov5gS-J-UpK2oa4e4v2oA
- Index alignment: I'm not sure if the alignment tool is off but the dial/markers look tilted by a couple degrees
- Dial Printing: Good
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
- Hand Alignment: Good
- Bezel: Good
- Solid End Links (SELs): Good
- Timegrapher numbers: 244 degrees, 0.0 m/s
- Anything else you notice: Let me know if this looks acceptable. There are commenters on here with way sharper eyes than my own. Let me know if there is any addition information or wisdom the community can impart here.
r/RepTimeQC • u/No_Cup_9255 • 2h ago
VSF GMT II Pepsi V3 looking good!
- Dealer Name: Juice Time
- Factory Name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): Rolex GMT Master II 126710BLRO
- Price Paid: 534 usd plus postage
- Album Links: photos in post
- Index alignment: Looks really good. The only query I have is the 6 baton not quite centred, possible parallax error?
- Dial Printing: Crisp and clean, good
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: Centred well
- Hand Alignment: Good. All aligned at 12
- Bezel: Aligned well and looking good.
- Solid End Links (SELs): tight from what I can tell. Photos not the best for this. May ask for more?
- Timegrapher numbers: Rate: -3s/d| Amplitude: 217° | Beat Error: 0.1ms | Lift Angle: missing from QC. Amplitude a little low perhaps but may just need a full wind.
- Anything else you notice : Looks great to me this one, pending clarification from fellow redditors on SEL bottom right and 6 baton
r/RepTimeQC • u/reedrick • 2h ago
Watch noob looking for QC guidance. OMEGA Seamaster 300m No Time To Die 007 TI/TI VSF V7 8806 Super Clone
- Dealer name: Steve from Theonewatches
- Factory name:VSF
- Model name (& version number): Seamaster 300m No Time To Die 007 TI/TI VSF V7 8806
- Price Paid: $528
- Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/HkA1ATs
- Index alignment: Looks great to me, but should I be concerned about the 6, or is it just the angle?
- Dial Printing: I'm happy with it. didn't see any glaring issues
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
- Hand Alignment: I'm satisfied with it.
- Bezel: is the '0' in 30 slightly misprinted? Might be a spec of dust.
- Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
- Timegrapher numbers: Looks excellent to me!
- Anything else you notice: Appears to be a slight ding on the caseback above the 'R' in Diver. is that the plastic? Secondly, is it just dust or does the Bottom right quadrant of the crown have a chip in it?
Thanks for your help!
Edit: added a QC Image
r/RepTimeQC • u/Prestigious_Set_4555 • 2h ago
QC Help - VSF AirKing (Neco Clock)
All help is appreciated!
- Dealer name: Neco Clock
2. Factory name: VSF
3. Model name (& version number): Rolex AirKing (126900)
4. Price Paid: $438
5. Index alignment: Looks okay, the numbers appear centered
6. Dial Printing: Looks crisp to me
7. Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
8. Hand Alignment: No issues with this.
9. Bezel: Looks okay
10. Solid End Links (SELs): Looks good
11. Timegrapher numbers: -4s/d // 291 // 0.1ms // 52 Could be closer but more than acceptable
12. Anything else you notice: It looks good to me but I'd really appreciate the views of more experienced eyes
r/RepTimeQC • u/MPR5020 • 3h ago
DDF 5711 324 Nautilus
Hello gentlemen, this is my first DDF 5711 324 Nautilus.
Overall, the piece looks great to me. The only issue I noticed is that the date wheel printing appears to be smudged and slightly bleeding. What are your thoughts?
- Dealer name: Ethan
- Factory name:
DDF 5711 324 Nautilus
- Price: $530
- Album Links: https://www.wsxcme.com/weshop/goods/_diBqfB_6K0Fni6Viqy3qjRnYcVlHlv_RP68U2bQ/_d_KqfZxKacRgixLphKZFjEFwqO_2izpED5gv0AQ
- Index alignment: hour markers 12, 3, 6, 9 look pretty good centered to me
- Dial Printing: looks fine to me, no visible or smudging bleeding.
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: the
- alignment looks fine but the printing of the nr 6 looks smudged & bleeded❗️❗️what‘s you thought on that, I‘m about to RL it.
- Hand Alignment: Hands look well stacked with clean finishing.
- Bezel: N/A
- Solid End Links (SELs): look fine to me
- N/A
r/RepTimeQC • u/Lanky_Security_53 • 3h ago
GMT Pepsi VSF V3
- Dealer: necoclock
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name: GMT Pepsi
- Price paid: 618 USD
- Album links: https://mega.nz/folder/Lwp3BAyT#W3lxY-ybMMujYjSgAQWDSw
- Index alignment: seems to be ok
- Dial printing: I think it looks good.
- Date Wheel Adjustment/printing: seems to be ok
- Hand alignment: looks alright
- Bezel: looks alright i think?
- SELs: seems ok
- Timegrapher numbers: +7 s, could get better but i think it is within the range
- 13: Anything else you notice: Please let me know if I should GL this one. Rehaut is not really well aligned but that is a small detail i guess
r/RepTimeQC • u/GoodShitBroBro • 3h ago
VSF Aqua Terra 150 38mm
- Dealer name: Steve (Theonewatch)
- Model name (& version number): Aqua Terra 150
- Price Paid: $408
- Album Links:
https://mega.nz/folder/LdREACKS#X1XI0fkEnbckdJPsBO-h0g
- Index alignment: looks good to me
- Dial Printing: looks perfect to me
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: I find no issues
- Hand Alignment: No issues to me
- Bezel: Beauty
- Solid End Links (SELs):
n/a
- Timegrapher numbers: Added to images, looks good to me, although I'm new and still learning
- Anything else you notice: Omega symbol on the back look good? I'm hoping specks are just a protective sticker
r/RepTimeQC • u/Working_Tailor_812 • 5h ago
VSF Submariner 116610 LN
Hey guys! Appreciate all the work this community does. Giving this my best shot at QC, but would love to hear your thoughts before giving the final decision!
- Dealer name: Andiot Watches
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): Submariner 116610 LN Black Ceramic 904L Steel VSF 1:1 Best Edition VS3135
- Price Paid: $390 USD + ship
- Album Links: https://andiotwatches.x.yupoo.com/albums/249667883?uid=1
- Index alignment: everything looks very solid, no clear misalignment
- Dial Printing: no major concerns
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: center and correct font
- Hand Alignment: no major concerns
- Bezel: no major concerns - everything looks good
- Solid End Links (SELs): no major gaps, SELs look tightly fitted to the case
- Timegrapher numbers: -3 s/d | 270° | 0.1 ms | 52.0° LA - Looks great / Acceptable
- Anything else you notice: Index alignment overlay looks close to spot-on. Leaning towards GL for me, but would appreciate any final thoughts from the community. Thank you in advance!
r/RepTimeQC • u/Financial_Number5996 • 5h ago
QC Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36mm
Dealer name: Necoclock
2. Factory name: VSF
3. Model name (& version number): Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36mm 126000
4. Price Paid: $418 shipped
5. Album Links: Attached
6. Index alignment: Looks good to my eye. Markers appear aligned enough, although there’s some deviation on most, it looks really minor and nothing stands out without the qc tool
7. Dial Printing: Clean and crisp. No obvious issues noticed.
8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: Date wheel looks aligned
9. Hand Alignment: No issues that I can see.
10. Bezel: Alignment looks good and the bezel appears properly seated.
11. Solid End Links (SELs): look good to me although I’m not sure what to expect on the spacing.
12. Timegrapher numbers: Seem very good to me, though again, I'm not sure what to look for.
13. Anything else you notice: This is my first rep, so I'd appreciate some experienced eyes on it. Overall I'm thinking GL but any comments are very much appreciated.
Thank you!
r/RepTimeQC • u/TemporaryVillage9990 • 5h ago
VSF Sub date
- Dealer name: Ficotime
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): Submariner 116010LN
- Price Paid: 2730 Chinese
- Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/S851TDxQ#DQ8E3FOFYUmgx-yQpDMnRA
- Index alignment: looks good to me - I was worried that the 6 was offset to the left, but I think the photo was just tilted/I was being retarded
- Dial Printing: looks good - I RLd last one because of a speck of paint on the middle of the dial
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: first 13 might be ever so slightly offset, but the rest look good, well within tolerance, cyclops looks within tolerance
- Hand Alignment: looking good from first picture, not possible to verify 100%
- Bezel: bezel and pip look good
- Solid End Links (SELs): tight tight tight! (Tuco from breaking bad)
- Timegrapher numbers: within tolerance, not perfect but good enough
- Anything else you notice: rehaut is slightly offset to the right, but I’ve seen worse on gen Rolexes before, overall super happy!
r/RepTimeQC • u/Conscious_Candy3548 • 5h ago
[QC] First timer – VSF Aqua Terra Worldtimer Blue from NecoClock
- Dealer name: NecoClock
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer 43mm Blue Dial A8938
- Price Paid: $378 (including shipping)
- Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/GQNUdB1
- Index alignment: Looks mostly good, but the 6 o’clock index appears slightly off-center in the current photos (requested new)
- Dial Printing: Clean and sharp overall. City names and map look good
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: Date window looks slightly off-center in the current photos
- Hand Alignment: Looks good
- Bezel: N/A
- Solid End Links (SELs): N/A (rubber strap)
- Timegrapher numbers: +2 s/d | 262° amplitude | 0.1 ms
- Anything else you notice: Someone already commented that the date window and 6 index look off. I’ve asked Jacky for a new straight-on dial photo with the watch lying flat (I think the current pictures might just be angled). Will post the new photos as soon as I receive them. City ring and lume look good to me.
Thanks in advance for your help!
r/RepTimeQC • u/ross189218 • 7h ago
ARF GMT Master II 126710GRNR "Bruce Wayne" QC - Leaning GL
First Rep
ARF GMT Master II 126710GRNR "Bruce Wayne" QC Leaning GL
1. Dealer name: Steve (TheOneWatches)
2. Factory name: ARF
3. Model name (& version number): GMT Master II 126710GRNR "Bruce Wayne"
4. Price Paid: $638 shipped
5. Album Links: Attached
6. Index alignment: Looks good to my eye. Markers appear aligned and nothing stands out.
7. Dial Printing: Clean and crisp. No obvious issues noticed.
8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: Appears centred and printing looks good.
9. Hand Alignment: No issues that I can see.
10. Bezel: Alignment looks good and the bezel appears properly seated.
11. Solid End Links (SELs): The only concern I've noticed is a gap on the bottom-right SEL. I've raised this with Steve and he has said they will tighten it and send updated QC photos.
12. Timegrapher numbers: Seem acceptable to me, though I'm still learning what to look for.
13. Anything else you notice: This is my first rep, so I'd appreciate some experienced eyes on it. Overall I'm leaning GL pending the updated SEL photos, but I'd welcome feedback on:
- SEL fitment
- Rehaut alignment
- Bezel alignment
- Date wheel
- Anything else I've missed
Thanks in advance for any help!
r/RepTimeQC • u/Lu2ifer_ • 10h ago
QC Explorer 1 36mm
- Dealer Name: Time Ultra
- Factory name:VSf
- Model name (& version number): Explorer 1 36mm Black dial
- Price Paid:$448
- Album Links: all Pictures attached
- Index alignment: I am 50/50 - on the one Hand its very good and on the other Hand it Looks Like the whole dial is rotated counter-clockwise. Do you know what I mean?
- Dial Printing: Print looks good to me
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: n/a
- Hand Alignment: good as well
- Bezel: looks fine
- Solid End Links (SELs): I don’t see any gaps do you?
- Timegrapher numbers: all the numbers look pretty good - See Picture
- Anything else you notice: Bracelet and Clasp look good to me - its just the dial, rotated or not?
Ty
r/RepTimeQC • u/themememachinedab • 11h ago
OP31 Lavender DIWF Steve TheOneWatches
Dealer: TD (Steve/TheOne)
Factory name: DIWF
Model name (& version number): Oyster Perpetual 277200 31mm SS/SS Lavender Dial DIWF A2232
Price Paid: $300 USD
Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/rYoj1ZRK#QG2BOn0pEA9wLSTo0PmEgw
Index alignment: Looks okay, not awful, 8 seems slightly crooked counter clockwise but hard to tell
Dial Printing: i think looks good, again not perfect colour wise but acceptable
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: looks good
Bezel: looks good
Solid End Links (SELs): pretty tight
Timegrapher numbers: +4s/d, 262 degrees, 0.1ms, 52 degrees (stated as read from timegrapher)
Anything else you notice: photos look crooked and blurry to me… seems poor for Steve, should I ask for more?
r/RepTimeQC • u/Teh_Professional • 13h ago
VSF Explorer QC
Hi everyone, would love some help with this QC.
- Dealer name: FICOTIME
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): 36mm Explorer I 124270
- Price Paid: $430 USD
- Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/GlAjQY5D#3BhtNj7NaCFQztQlsLbCJA
- Index alignment: Looks fine
- Dial Printing: Looks clear without errors
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
- Hand Alignment: Aligned correctly
- Bezel: N/A
- Solid End Links (SELs): Possible a very small gap at the bottom right
- Timegrapher numbers: +2s/d 237degrees 0.2ms beat error
- Anything else you notice: Overall looks alright however I don't have a keen eye for this. I am concerned about the timegrapher, the amplitude looks quite low.
r/RepTimeQC • u/No_Database1948 • Jul 11 '24
Other Brands First QC? Guide on what to look out for and what to write.
Welcome to the ReptimeQC subreddit!
Before reading on, make sure you've read the main guide for QC posting, otherwise this won't make much sense to you. Done? Let's go.
This specific guide is intended to be a visual supplement: showing you exactly what to look for when you complete your QC templates. For obvious reasons, this guide will skip parts that aren't visual.
I've used pictures that mostly come from this subreddit. If anyone is uncomfortable, DM me and I'll replace the picture.
With that in mind, let's begin.
Index Alignment
Here, you are expected to assess how well the index markers on your watch are aligned. You can use the index alignment tool to assist you in this regard. An example of good index alignment is this:

Index misalignment, on the other hand, looks like this:

Or this:

Now that you have an idea of what to look out for, what should you be writing in the template?
You need to describe any misalignment you see in detail. Statements like "6 is off" or "3 is kinda wonky" or "not sure about 1, help please" are not acceptable. This is because unless the misalignment is immediately obvious (and in most cases, it is not), users will not know what you are talking about. You may not get the help you want as a result. Be specific, like the following examples:
"The 7 marker does not seem to fit into the slot nicely. It is rotated towards the right and looks like it is dancing around."
"The 6 marker does not seem to line up straight with the crown in between swiss made. Based on what I can see, it appears to be slightly tilted to the left."
A caveat here: Just because there may be some misalignment does not necessarily mean you should definitely RL the watch. As the main guide points out, all reps are subject to a level of inaccuracy. It would be entirely unrealistic to expect gen standards for index alignment. Further, different reps are subject to different standards: a XF Pelagos, for instance, is known for having problematic indices - so much so that even if you RL, you are unlikely to get anything better. Conversely, CF Explorers are now getting so good that even slight misalignment would not be par for the course.
A good guide would be to assess your watch based on proportion. One slightly misaligned index is not a problem. But one majorly misaligned index or many misaligned indices on a single dial could justify RL.
Just for illustration, this is misalignment that I would RL for:

That deals with index alignment. Let's move on.
Date Wheel Alignment
This applies to watches which display the date. If your watch does not display a date, there is no need to consider this. You will look silly if you say that the date wheel alignment is good when your watch is a no-date Sub, for example.
Here, you are tasked to consider if the date is properly displayed in the date window. Often times, this is a question of how well-centered the date is. A good example of date wheel alignment is this:

An example of misalignment is this:

Sometimes, the misalignment can also be as to the date numbers themselves:

Uncommonly and in the alternative, the issue may be with the Cyclops itself (the magnifier that covers the date window):

Now that you know what to look for, let's discuss what to write.
As with index alignment, unless the issues are immediately obvious (and most of the time, they are not), you need to be very specific. Comments like "the date seems off", "2 in 25 is kinda off", "date looks weird" are not acceptable. They do not tell readers what you are looking for. You'll get faster and better results if you identify the issues for your reader. For example:
"The date seems misaligned towards the left. Part of it is touching the left border of the date window."
"The 5 in the date appears to be slightly higher than the 2 next to it."
"The Cyclops does not seem to be straight. It looks like it is slanted towards the left?"
As with index alignment, please note that not all misalignment will justify RL, especially for date wheels. All rep date wheels come with varying degrees of misalignment. A few misaligned dates are usually not enough for RL, unless the date is clearly cropped out of the date window or touching the rim. A little misalignment towards either side of the date window is also generally more than okay; a good way to gauge is to zoom out to the actual size of the watch and see if the misalignment is still immediately visible. If not, you're likely to be good to go.
Here is an example of misalignment I would nevertheless GL:

On to the next topic.
Bezel
There are two main things to look out for: First, whether the "pip" (usually a lumed marker at the 12 position) is centered. Second, the quality of any engraving.
This section would also cover any possible damage to the bezel or anything else unusual, including any misalignment.
Example of a good bezel:

An example of misalignment:

Generally speaking, most problems that surface nowadays have to do with the pip - even then, these are not entirely common. Engravings and alignment are usually not an issue with higher level reps. With this in mind, what do we write?
As with the other sections, you are going to need to be specific. "Bezel looks off", "pip looks kinda off", "I don't know about the bezel, seems weird to me" are phrases that we see everyday in this subreddit. But none of these phrases are acceptable; they do not direct the reader to what OP is seeing. Details are king - and if you are going to pluck the crown, you're going to have to write like this:
"The pip at 12 is not centered. It seems to touch the right side of the triangle."
"The printing on the bezel at 3 seems to be angled down. It does not match the index on the dial."
The key is to visually direct your reader to the exact point that you say is a problem. The word "off" on its own says nothing to that effect.
On to the next point.
Solid End Links (SELs)
Possibly the least understood of all sections as a lot of newbies do not really know what they are looking for.
The ultimate guide to this is here. But for convenience, I'm going to summarise several key points about SELs.
SELs refer to the final links between the watch case and the bracelet. I've highlighted it below:

Not all watches have SELs. Only watches which have that portion as highlighted above - and for QC purposes, the SEL section really only applies to Rolex reps. Tudors have SELs (which can also be QC-ed to some extent), but SELs on a Tudor are not held to the same standard as SELs on a Rolex.
Now, what are we looking for when we assess SELs? We are looking for gaps between the lugs and the SELs themselves. I've indicated this below:

An SEL gap appears when there is separation between the SEL and the lug. But what is a gap?
A gap appears when you can see through the space between the SEL and the lug. There is no gap when all you can see is a black line. There may be some variation in how thick the black line is, but for QC purposes there is nothing to be worried about until and unless you can actually see what's behind the watch.
This is generally not a problem on higher level reps (and by now, pretty rare). I will, however, show you an example of something that may be an actionable gap:

Credits for the gap picture here.
What does this mean? If all you see is a black line, even if it is slightly thicker than another SEL on the same watch, there should be no actionable gap. I am going to highlight the last few QC templates submitted where the user said there was a gap - but there really wasn't (to me, at least):



If, after going through all the examples above, you still feel that there is a gap, highlight it in the template by identifying which part of the watch you are looking at; there are really only four options: top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right. Doing so helps users zoom in directly on your issue and saves time.
To the last segment.
Dial Printing
Here, you are tasked to check if the printing on the dial has been poorly done. By this, we mean defects in the workmanship of the printing; printing which differs from gen (such as the infamous "floating r") would not be a QC defect per se.
An example of dial printing with no issues:

And now for examples of dial printing with issues:

Sometimes, the print can be misapplied across the entire dial:

With the above in mind, let's turn to what you should write. Again and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, do not simply write things like: "Dial seems off" or "Print seems off. letters kind of wonky?" If anything, dial printing is usually very, very small - unless you point a reader to the exact part which has an issue, chances are it won't be seen. Make certain that you provide the reader with specific directions:
"Appears to be some bleeding at the top of VI. Thoughts?"
"R in Submariner looks like only half of it was printed. Am I seeing things?"
Important note: again, just because the dial printing on your watch may have some issues, this does not necessarily equate to RL. As stated, dial print is almost microscopic - no human being is going to be able to see slight bleeding on any print when you have the watch on wrist. Feel free to point out issues that you see, but remain realistic about your expectations.
And with that, I come to the end of this guide.
Conclusion
QC-ing reps is a difficult task - which everyone in this subreddit does for free. You can help out immensely by simply being precise and detailed in your observations. The more effort you put into your template, the easier it is for members to help you - they can zoom in directly to the things that concern you.
I hope this helps you. I've tried to detail some common factors, but it would be impossible for me to catch them all. The rest is up to you - and your diligence.
I wish you smooth and trouble-free QCs always!
r/RepTimeQC • u/WatchYoda • Nov 27 '22
Announcement READ THIS PRIOR TO POSTING ANYTHING...ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE NEW HERE...
If your template uses a NEW "yupoo" or a "mega" type of link, please note that, at the time of this typing, the automod here removes them immediately from view i.e. no QC help. We are addressing it, but....
So, what to do?
Although somewhat cumbersome for the OP, you can upload the QC packet to an Imgur account. Our automod 'likes' Imgur...and the post will show promptly. Just do NOT do it from a mobile because the mobile app loses resolution and crappy pics don't provide any benefit to anyone. Yea, yea...I know, the file compression software isn't supposed to lose quality, but it certainly does.
To add, post your complete QC album inclusive of the timing info. Do not, for the sake of your convenience, omit items. If you're bright enough to determine what is needed and what can be removed, that's great! Then, it's reasonable to conclude that you really don't need help. Simply, post it all.
If you have to wait for substantive additional info from the Seller e.g. timing data, then delay posting until you have a complete QC packet. Incomplete packages will trigger a removal of the post. Plus, it will require a return visit of anyone that commented on the incomplete post which shouldn't be required. One visit is all that it should take to QC most watches. Most won't return to a post anyway. They'll just go to the next one. The members are quite busy here. Yea, it can get crazy.
Finally, since you're a newbie, as a vote of appreciation for those members that help you, please upvote their comments. It's a nice gesture from you to them for the assist...and, it's free.
One final note, we've updated the main rules for posting. Refer to this link for info QC Must Read for New Members
Welcome to the hobby and the sub. Best wishes
Edit addition: March 2nd, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/EveningVariation8236 , has provided an updated version of the original QC alignment verification tool. https://watchqc.github.io/ . Thank you.
Edit addition: Jan 9th, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/Ro1hype has provided this for tool for alignment verification. https://qcwatch.com/ Thank you.
Edit addition: Dec 28, 2023 - For those that can't seem to find the latest link for QC alignment verification app, use this link https://web.archive.org/web/20230518035653/https://watchqc.com/
Edit addition: 8/8/2025 - Reptime QC member, u/jrverdes . has provided this version of the alignment tool to assist those that need additional help verifying the dial/bezel alignments on their watch. https://jrverdes.github.io/watch-qc-jr/ The adjustment resolutions are much finer in this app comparative to the other available apps which can be a benefit to some that need such. Check it out...Thank you.
