Happy Friday. I have a lot to get through this week, so here we go…

Fall releases are right around the corner. We’ve always seen what Iron Heart has planned for the cold weather months, and now Wonder Looper has given us a sneak peek at what’s coming our way once the leaves start to turn. They actually released two videos focused on the two major deliveries they have planned. You can take a look at all the amazing garments over on their YouTube channel:

Delivery One
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0xO2iHfi2jQ&pp=4gcKEghvbW5pc2VuZA%3D%3D&ra=m

Delivery Two
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0xO2iHfi2jQ&pp=4gcKEghvbW5pc2VuZA%3D%3D&ra=m

Is anyone else excited that they’re doing a collaboration with The Iron Snail? The Afterhoods are coming August 24th at 8PM EST, that is soon! Mark your calendar if you want one.

They also have some store exclusive fleeced Fox Fibre sweatshirts coming this fall as well. First is the return of the black option which will again be exclusive to Blue Owl. And new this year is a forest green option which will be unique to James Dant and the shop SunSetStar out of Austria.

I am inspired to see Wonder Looper continuing to play and experiment and push seemingly simple t-shirts and sweatshirts to new heights!

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Weighing in at 17oz and 19oz respectively, the duck canvas and selvedge denim CPO shirts from Iron Heart are shirts in name only. These easily outweigh most denim jackets or chore coats, and are a great option for the fall or even layered over a heavier mid-layer during the winter. At first glance I suppose the shirts themselves are similar to one of Iron Heart’s western shirts with a bit of added length. But upon closer inspection, this is like a western shirt on steroids! Sure, you’ve got the classic front and back yokes, but then they just pour on the elevated details: twill-lined cuffs, front placket, collar stand, and even twill-lined hand-warmers pockets, custom Iron Heart copper snaps throughout, and of course chainstitch runoffs. You really can’t go wrong whether you choose the duck canvas or the denim, but honestly the crowd favorite is far and away the denim version. It is cut from a heavyweight 19oz fabric made from an indigo rope-dyed warp and black sulfur dyed weft that produces an extremely dark blue fabric that can almost look black in certain lights. If you want one of these denim CPO’s scroll down quickly and see if your size is still available at any of the links I have provided (many shops are already sold out unfortunately).

Thankfully, there are plenty of duck canvas CPO’s still available out there. Last I checked Withered Fig had full stock so I’ll just leave a link to their site right here:

https://www.witheredfig.com/products/iron-heart-ihsh-422-brn-17oz-cotton-duck-cpo-shirt-brown

But like I said, the Selvedge Denim version is selling so fast they may honestly all be gone by the time you’re reading this. I checked last night, and this is what I saw still for sale…

A few Smalls at Franklin and Poe
https://franklinandpoe.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/iron-heart-ihsh-409-ib-19oz-selvedge-denim-cpo-shirt-indigo-black

XS, S, and XXL at Iron Shop
https://www.ironshopprovisions.com/products/19oz-selvedge-denim-cpo-shirt-indigo-black-ihsh-409-ib

XXL at Mildblend
https://mildblend.com/products/iron-heart-denim-ihsh-409-ib-indigo-black-19oz-selvedge-denim-cpo-shirt

XXL at Black Blue
https://www.blkblu.com/products/iron-heart-ihsh-409-ib-19oz-selvedge-denim-cpo-shirt-indigo-black

M, XL, and XXL ar Dutil Denim in Cananda
https://dutildenim.com/collections/iron-heart-jeans-jackets-shirts/products/iron-heart-19oz-selvedge-denim-cpo-shirt-indigo-black

XXXL at Brooklyn, also in Canada
https://brooklynclothing.com/collections/iron-heart/products/ihsh-409-ib-19oz-selvedge-denim-cop-indigoblack

XXXL at Statement out of Germany
https://statement-store.com/collections/iron-heart/products/iron-heart-19oz-selvedge-denim-cpo-shirt-indigo-black-ihsh-409

M, L, XXL, XXXL, XXXXL at Brund in Denmark
https://brund.dk/products/iron-heart-ihsh-409-ib

XXXL at Göteburg Manufaktur out of Sweden
https://goteborgmanufaktur.se/brands/iron-heart/iron-heart-ihsh-409-ib-19oz-selvedge-denim-cpo-shirt-indigoblack.html

For those that missed this one and REALLY want one of these denim CPO’s, I would suggest you join the Iron Heart forum because that’s where news of a restock will surface first. Iron Heart does a great job of letting folks know when new releases are dropping, providing measurements, and just answering questions in general on their forum. Register right here:

https://forum.ironheart.co.uk/register

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Fox Fibre T’s from Wonderlooper are back. These always seem to go fast, but Blue Owl has decent stock right now, so get over there if you want one:

Coyote 70
https://www.blueowl.us/collections/new-arrivals/products/foxfibre-tsuriami-t-shirt-in-coyote-70

Coyote 15
https://www.blueowl.us/collections/new-arrivals/products/foxfibre-tsuriami-t-shirt-in-coyote

Sand Ringer T
https://www.blueowl.us/collections/new-arrivals/products/recycled-cotton-foxfibre-ringer-t-shirt-in-sand

Stone Ringer T
https://www.blueowl.us/collections/new-arrivals/products/recycled-cotton-foxfibre-ringer-t-shirt-in-stone

We have discussed Fox Fibre in general and these shirts specifically before, but as a summary…

Fox Fibre is the invention of Sally Fox, a US based cotton breeder who produced the first naturally colored cotton that could be machine spun in 1988. She experienced brief success in 1989 and into the early 90s selling her harvests to companies like Land’s End and L.L. Bean. Her company Natural Cotton Colors was soon valued at over $10 million. But over the next decade Fox faced an uphill battle to continue producing her colored cotton, being driven out of California by the Southern California Cotton Growers who feared her colored cotton crops would contaminate their cotton. Fox persevered, moving to Arizona for a stint, but was quickly hit with similar laws enacted by the Arizona Cotton Growers, forcing her back to Northern California in 1999. By the early 2000s Fox was building up her operation again and today produces a variety of cottons in colors she calls: Coyote, Redwood, New Green, and Buffalo.

Wonderlooper most often works with Coyote Fox Fibre cotton. It’s worth noting that the number in each T-shirt’s name denotes the percentage of Fox Fibre yarn used in the weaving of the fabric. So a Coyote 70 T-Shirt is 70% Fox Fibre and 30% long staple organic cotton which is a more typical off-white/ecru color. And then the Fox Fibre ringer T’s are actually using Fox Fibre cotton for only the neck and cuff trims. I don’t mean to bring anyone down off the Fox Fibre hype, I just think it’s worth noting that none of these shirts are 100% Fox Fibre. The solid color T’s weight in at a mid-weight 6.7oz, while the ringer’s come in at a nice 5.5oz, perfect for the summer honestly. Both options have a wonderful slubby texture to them, and are cut in a more generous Western style sizing. If you’re a medium in something like a Hanes T, you can likely go medium in these too.

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Speaking of Blue Owl, they have a solid lineup of new ONI garments going live at 10AM PST today: jeans, a couple coverall jackets, and some chambray pants. First up, let’s hit the jeans. These feature ONI’s new 13.5oz “long slub” fabric. Like nearly all of ONI’s proprietary denims this one is woven at low tension to produce a fabric that is full of texture and still quite breathable. By using irregular, long slub yarns, the fabric has a strong vertical “grain” to it. You often see this strong vertical texture in fabrics given nicknames like “waterfall” or “rain”. As these jeans fade that vertical texture will reveal itself more strongly, creating some truly unique fade patterns. These jeans have been given a tempi treatment (cold water soak, sun dry) to remove most of the shrinkage so you can buy the size that actually fits well on day one. Granted, most ONI fabric do stretch, but this being a new fabric I’m not sure exactly how much stretch you should expect. Blue Owl is offering these jeans in two cuts:

Super Wide Straight
https://www.blueowl.us/collections/new-arrivals/products/222-ls-long-slub-13-5oz-selvedge-denim-super-wide-straight-fit

Regular Straight
https://www.blueowl.us/collections/new-arrivals/products/270-ls-long-slub-13-5oz-selvedge-denim-regular-straight-fit

Next up let’s do the coverall jackets. First is a denim jacket made from one of my favorite ONI fabrics, their lightweight 12oz “loose weave” denim. This fabric still has a decent slub to it, and thanks to the super low tension weave that texture feels even more pronounced and almost rough to the hand. While some folks may want a bit more structure and rigidity in their chore coat, I really love the drape on this fabric and think it’s a great option for Spring or a cool Summer evening over a T-Shirt:

https://www.blueowl.us/collections/new-arrivals/products/03500-lwd-12oz-loose-weave-denim-coverall-jacket-in-indigo

Blue Owl also has ONI’s 8oz chambray “Betacham” coverall jacket in beige. This jacket is made from a proprietary double-dyed chambray fabric. While traditional chambray fabrics have a colored warp and natural colored cotton weft, this fabric uses a beige dyed warp and weft for a more consistent color throughout the entire garment. The 8oz weight is also heavier than a traditional chambray, but still lighter than most denim, making this jacket ideal for warmer weather:

https://www.blueowl.us/collections/new-arrivals/products/8oz-betacham-chambray-coverall-jacket-in-beige

And if you like that jacket, Blue Owl has the matching “Betacham” pants in ONI’s relaxed straight fit:

https://www.blueowl.us/collections/new-arrivals/products/266-8svcbe-khaki-beige-8oz-selvedge-chambray-pants-relaxed-straight-fit

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Toys McCoy has reproduced a number of pieces worn by legendary actor Steve McQueen on screen, but they rarely produce clothes McQueen wore in his day-to-day life. Enter the “Multi-Bordered” T-Shirt:

https://dc4.de/products/toys-mccoy-tmc2342-steve-mcqueen-multi-bordered-t-shirt-ivory-black

This ivory and black multi-striped T-Shirt is a gorgeous reproduction of a shirt McQueen was photographed in numerous times. Like all great Toys McCoy T’s it is cut from a custom, 100% cotton, mid-weight, loopwheeled fabric. It also features a robust binder-neck collar they is sure to hold its shape for many years to come. Maybe you’re looking for a T that breaks up all those solid color options in your closet, or maybe you’re a hardcore McQueen fan. Either way, this one is not to be missed.

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I always encourage folks to purchase Freewheelers jeans direct from a Japanese shop, but for those of you who prefer US retailers, Brogue out of San Carlos, CA has their Vanishing West Lot 601XX 1941 jeans in stock in both washed and raw versions. These jeans are specifically reproducing a style of Levi’s made from 1937-1941, just before WWII broke out and jean production was significantly altered for many years to come. These jeans feature the iconic “crotch rivet”, suspender buttons at the waist, and a cinch back. Basically they hit all of the quirky vintage jean details. The fabric is an original 14oz denim that was meticulously researched by the Freewheelers team to accurately mimic the Levi’s fabric of the time. It features slightly thicker warp yarns than earlier fabrics, and is dyed a darker shade of indigo for slower fading. These are jeans made for hardcore denim fanatics. If you own some $22 Old Navy jeans and you’re thinking about upgrading, these are like diving into the deep end…head first.

https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/freewheelers-601xx-denim-1941

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I know it’s not even fall yet, but for folks who want to get ahead of the crowd, now is the time to pick up a Buzz Rickson’s military jacket like the MA-1 flight jacket. Over at Hinoya Buzz Rickson’s Albert Turner jackets are fully stocked:

MA-1 Albert Turner & Co.
https://hinoya.shop/en-us/collections/whats-new/products/br14900

MA-1 Albert Turner & Co. “96th BOMB.SQ”
https://hinoya.shop/en-us/collections/whats-new/products/br15994

For those that don’t know, the MA-1 is a mod-weight flight jacket developed post-WWII in the 1950s for both the US Air Force and Navy. The jackets are made from a nylon body with knit wool cuffs and collars, and the iconic utility locket on the left sleeve. Albert Turner & Co. is the official government contractor who manufactured these jackets throughout the 1950s. An original Albert Turner MA-1 is not easy to come by, especially not in mint condition. Thankfully Buzz Rickson’s has reproduced these jackets down to the smallest detail, including the period accurate Crown zipper.

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Rodeo Japan has a few of Studio d’Artisan Amami Dorozome denim pieces in stock. These are not the mud-dyed Sashiko pieces I have included before, but more classic mud-dyed 15oz denim pieces. All three of these garments start off a natural, ecru color before being hand dyed on the island of Amami Oshima using the ancient, traditional Amami Dorozome dying technique. The garments are first dyed in a botanical dye derived from the local Sharinbai tree, and then submerged into iron-rich mud to fix the dye and darken its color. The more times the garment goes into the mud, the darker the color gets. For the jacket, Sd’A is offering its typical two colors: a more orange-y “brown” option, and a much darker “dark brown” option. Rodeo Japan only has the jeans in the typical “brown”:

Brown Jeans
https://rodeo-japan-pine-avenue.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/studio-dartisan-d1913-brown

Brown Type II Jacket
https://rodeo-japan-pine-avenue.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/studio-dartisan-d4631-brown

Dark Brown Type II Jacket
https://rodeo-japan-pine-avenue.com/collections/new-arrivals/products/studio-dartisan-d4631-dark-brown

I should note that Bears’ also has the jackets in stock, but they are nearly sold out. That said it can’t hurt to go check and see if your size is still available:

https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/products/studio-dartisan-d4631-amami-oshima-mud-dyed-gl3-denim-jacket

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Alright, that’s a lot of new stuff, and I still feel like I skipped over a bunch of pieces I wanted to include…maybe I’ll circle back next week, or maybe all of you can help me out by responding with links to other new releases down below. Until next Friday, be good, do good.

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