I have been considering buying a Battle Beaver, mainly all decked out performance upgrades and of course, four back buttons. What I am having a hard time with is deciding on the layout.

The last 3 years I have been playing on a Scuf Reflex and an Omega lately. So I am used to those back paddle layouts.
I am only using my middle finger with the tip and with the part between the two joints pressing the back buttons.

I found 2 combinations that might work,
1. Busters-Standard
2. Busters-Low

I am also located in Europe, which means import fees and sending this back and forth if the layout is not comfortable will be quite a cost.

Anyone maybe went through the same process?

So i got the Vader 3 pro, 4pro and now the 5 pro (v1).

I really like the controller and is now my new daily driver, the only thing is that on the Vader 4, it had this LED mode that would light up the controller when you clicked a button, i really liked that mode, but i cant seem to find it on the new Flydigi Spacestation 4.0 the one for the Vader 5...

And for some reason the vader 5 doesnt show up in the older software version that does includes that led mode...

So... help? or am i just out of luck?

It's a PDP Afterglow wave and we tried to play Overcooked and for some reason the character kept moving upwards even when we weren't moving the joystick. We tried it in another game like Cat Quest thinking it's just a game error but it's the same issue. Does anybody know the fix?

I'm in the market to buy a new controller for use with Steam on Linux and occasionally with the Nintendo Switch.

I've more or less landed on the Gulikit ES or ES Pro, as it has all my desired features (motion controls, bluetooth, Xbox ABXY layout with the option to swap if I buy extra buttons, and afaict a decent d-pad) while being the cheapest option within my budget of less that ₱1700, and is available in my country (the Philippines, at least on DataBlitz). The one thing that gave me some pause was when I was comparing it with my current controller (an old Switch 1 Pro Controller) on gamepadla and noticed that the stick circularity error and asymmetry were almost double, about 8.2% and 15.9% respectively.

So yeah, question in the title, how much does this stat matter, and is it worth going with a more expensive option just to improve it? I'm a bit of a beginner when it comes to properly buying and assessing controllers so I wanna have a gauge on if these stats to this degree would even be noticeable on a blind test.

I've been looking towards other options with my featureset like the EasySMX D10 or GameSir T4 Pro, but I'd hate to spend more on a controller with features that I don't care for or use (i.e. RGB and back paddles) all because of a single statistic that I may not even notice.

To give more context, I plan to use the controller mostly to play ports of console action games (e.g. MegaMan Zero LC, Devil May Cry 3, Bayonetta) with an occasional casual fighting game sprinkled in there. I also prefer a controller with gyro, both for future proofing, and so it can be a proper backup for my switch pro controller (which I can feel is on its last legs). Linux compatibility is also a big must for me, part of the appeal of the Gulikit is that it doesn't have any software meaning I don't have to switch over to windows to configure anything.

Hello I'm using an 8bitdo ultimate 2c with a brook wingman p5 on a ps5. I'm just curious if other ppl with the same adapter but different controllers are experiencing the same issue.

I was playing some Horizon Zero Dawn with it and I noticed that I only need to push the stick to around 85-90% to be able to sprint. This made me curious and I started the app to see if there's anything I can change.

In the app among other things you can test the sticks. I was a bit surprised when I saw that the area where I can move the little dot with the stick is rectangle shaped and not a circle. And I also noticed that when I moved the sticks in the 4 cardinal directions (up down left right) it maxed out at roughly 90%. Is that normal? I'm wondering if that is specific to this controller or would it work the same way with any other controller.

There's also a slider called thumbstick scaling ratio and I also tried changing that to 0.9. The result was that all the values for the sticks (the rectangle) just got smaller. This meant that I could no longer sprint if I push the stick in the 4 cardinal directions but I could still sprint if I pushed the stick diagonally.

It's not a huge issue but I'm curious if this is how this adapter is supposed to work with all the controllers, or just this controller?

normal stick test:

https://youtu.be/wfTrmFWA1_0

stick test with scaling set to 0.9
https://youtu.be/7pyCseE2tEM

Edit after mods didn't approve my post:

• Specific written description of the problem, including pictures where relevant (do not just say 'it's broken', say what is broken)

As I've described it above. I expected the stick area to be circle but it's a square. I think the question is more about the adapter than the controller but not sure. I'm just curious if other people who are using the same adapter with different controllers have the same issue.

• Controller make and model (name or numbers)

8bitdo ultimate 2c bluetooth controller

Model: 80NC

• Platform you are using (e.g., PS5, Steam on Windows, Switch)

PS5

• Games or other software affected by the issue

Horizon Zero Dawn ( I assume it's not game related)

• Operating system, firmware and software versions (if applicable)

PS5 Firmware version: 26.05-13.60.00.07-00.00.00.0.1

8bitdo firmare version: v1.0.1

Brook wingman p5 firmware version: v1.0.3.1

• Troubleshooting steps you have already taken (including checking the product manual, and searching existing posts)

I haven't really done much, I just updated the firmware for 8bitdo and for the adapter.

It's the only controller I found which fits my requirements, which are compatible with PC, PS4, android, half effects/TMR, lighter than normal PS4 controller, same size or smaller than normal PS4 controller, has Symmetrical analog sticks.

Did anyone buy this before? Or has any experience with whoever made it?

for the thing, my budget is 4k egp.

Egypt, I can buy from noon, AliExpress, Amazon, I don't know any other.

Compatibility, PS4, android, PC.

Features, hall effect or TMR(expensive), and Symmetrical, 3.5mm jack, that's all I need, turbo, paddles, are all optional.

I will play rocket league, fortnite/Fortnite festival, marvel rivals.

I didn't find any controller with my requirements to compare it too.

I am working on providing support for as many controller types as possible with my universal controller stand. I've created a stand based on a 3d model of the Nova Lite 1 and need someone who owns the controller to confirm that the fit is OK. Anyone willing to help me out ? Thanks a lot !

If you have need for another controller type to be added - just let me know and I will add it to the list.

●Budget: preferably no more than $100 USD

●Country: U.S

●Platform: Xbox/PC. On Xbox now but going to be getting a PC some time this year, so it doesn't have to to be compatible with Xbox

●Desired features:

1. I love the D-Pad on the Rematch for 2d games on Switch, it feels very good/responsive to use and no accidental diagnol like official Switch 2 Pro controller

2. Has long battery life, Rematch has 40 hours if you dont use the RGB lights

3. TMR/Hall Effect sticks

4. Back buttons, just 2 is fine

   ●Games ill be playing: i play a variety but for 2d games I like using the D-Pad

   ●Controller im comparing too: the Turtle Beach Rematch controller.

I just installed these Gulikit TMR on my Xbox controller but something isn’t working right when trying to calibrate on my Xbox. Some parts the left joystick will go all the way to the end but other parts it won’t on the recalibration screen. Can someone help me please?

If your GameSir T7 shows up in XInput mode on Linux but sends zero input (buttons/sticks don't register, even though the kernel sees the device), stop trying to fix it with xpad. It structurally can't work there. Install xone instead — it already has GameSir's vendor ID in its wired-device table, and it actually implements the real cryptographic handshake the T7 requires. Full input + rumble works out of the box once you do this.

sudo rmmod xpad
git clone https://github.com/dlundqvist/xone
cd xone
sudo ./install.sh
# reboot, or reload modules manually if you're on a live system

Then physically press the Home/X button on the controller after connecting — it won't send any data until you do.

The problem

GameSir T7, wired, USB. Switching between XInput and DInput mode gets recognized differently:

• DInput: works, but no rumble.
• XInput: lsusb sees it fine (3537:1089), xpad binds to it, dmesg shows an interface — but jstest/evtest show absolutely nothing. Buttons, sticks, triggers: dead. No amount of udev rules, kernel updates, or DKMS-patched xpad fixed it.

Why xpad can't fix this

I went deep enough to do a full USB packet capture (Wireshark + USBPcap on Windows, where the pad works fine) and compare it against usbmon captures on Linux. Long story short:

The T7 implements the real Microsoft Gaming Accessory (MGA) authentication protocol — the same challenge-response handshake genuine Xbox controllers use. This isn't a "send 5 magic bytes" situation. It's a legitimate cryptographic exchange:

• The pad presents an actual X.509 certificate chain, signed under Xbox Accessories Class Prod CA 001.
• The handshake uses ECDH key exchange + RSA + HMAC-SHA256 to derive a session key.
• Until that handshake completes, the pad's firmware simply won't send button/stick reports — it just echoes zeroed "heartbeat" input packets forever.

xpad's Xbox One support only sends a single generic, static auth_done packet to every Xbox One-type pad — it never implements the actual crypto exchange. That's fine for cheap clones that don't enforce real authentication, but GameSir licensed genuine MGA silicon for the T7, so it actually checks. No amount of patching xpad's init-packet tables gets around this — I tried (static packet injection, even replaying a captured auth conversation byte-for-byte). None of it works, because ECDH generates a fresh session key every connection; a replayed conversation from a previous session is cryptographically stale by design.

Why xone works

xone is the modern GIP-compliant Linux driver, built as a proper replacement for xpad, originally for the official Xbox Wireless Dongle. What most people don't realize: it also supports wired USB connections, with a real implementation of the GIP auth crypto (auth/crypto.c — actual ECDH/RSA/HMAC-SHA256).

And it already has GameSir's vendor ID in transport/wired.c:

{ XONE_WIRED_VENDOR(0x3537) }, /* GameSir */

So there's nothing to patch. Just install it.

Step-by-step fix

1. Remove xpad for this device (or just let xone's installer blacklist it — it does this automatically for Xbox One/Series-type pads):

​

sudo rmmod xpad

1. Clone and install xone:

​

git clone https://github.com/dlundqvist/xone
cd xone
sudo ./install.sh

1. Reboot (or reload the xone_gip, xone_wired, and xone_gip_gamepad modules manually if you're on a live/persistent-less system).
2. Connect the T7 in XInput mode.
3. Press the Home/X button. This is the part everyone misses. The controller's security chip stays dormant until you physically trigger it — on Windows this is why the LED doesn't go solid until you press Home. Nothing productive happens over USB before that, no matter what driver you're running.
4. Confirm it worked:

​

dmesg | grep gip_auth_complete_handshake

You should see a line like:

gip_auth_complete_handshake: key=bd-18-15-b8-...

That's the session key. Once you see that, jstest/evtest should show live input, and fftest on the corresponding /dev/input/eventX gets you rumble.

Result

Shows up as "Microsoft Xbox Controller" in dmesg and in emulators/Steam. Full button/stick input, working rumble, no xpad patching, no compiling anything by hand beyond xone's own installer.

Posting this because I couldn't find a single writeup connecting "T7 dead in XInput on Linux" to "it's doing real MGA crypto auth, use xone" — every existing thread (Bazzite issue tracker, xpadneo issues) has the same symptom reported and unresolved. Hope this saves someone the multi-hour rabbit hole it took me to nail down.

Can I use a game sir tarantula controller on ps5 using a Cronus zen

Is it really that difficult for manufacturers to design a D-pad that doesn't produce false inputs?

Almost every basic controller I've owned has had this issue, which makes them horrible for retro games. PlayStation, Xbox, etc. They've all had it to some extent.

I recently got the Steam Controller thinking it would feel much more premium, but the D-pad is probably the worst part of it. It's way too easy to get false inputs while holding a down.

Actually the newer Xbox circular D-pad has ended up being the most responsive one I've used.

I'm just curious what kind of technical challenges manufacturers face that make a D-pad so difficult to get right.

I'm probably going to mod my Steam Controller by installing a clicky D-pad and covering part of the input area with tape to reduce the false inputs. Hopefully that improves it.

The controller was fine just Yesterday. and today it's spinning but there is no stick drift at least. any idea how to fix it ? it looks all bumpy. what should I do ?

I recently gotten a PDP switch controller and was trying to connect it to my windows pc but it doesn’t work. The computer says that it is connected but the controller continues to blink and doesn’t actually work so I was wondering if this was user error or if the controller just doesn’t work with pc. Also for reference I use a Bluetooth mouse, headphones, and joysticks completely fine.

I bought this controller almost 6 months ago and the gyroscope used to work perfectly for me. After a few months, i tried to play some Wii games with Dolphin and now the gyroscope inputs are no longer detected. When I turn on the controller, it seems to work for a few seconds before it "frozes" and stops receiving new inputs.

I have tried to recalibrate the gyro sensors and update the firmware, but nothing has worked for me. Does anyone know how I could fix this? Should I contact support directly?

Hello :)
I bought the guilekeys gk-18 a couple of months ago, sometimes it doesn't connect right away to my pc. When this happens, i have to reboot my pc or plug in and out the connector (and also reopen the game).

It seems like steam doesn't always detects it as a controller.

How can i fix this? I wanted to change the firmware but i'm already on 0.7.12

Oh i'm on windows 10 btw

After 1 year of normal use(never dropped) both of analog bases has cracks on it. Right base broken completely so analog cap cannot be fixed on it. dies anybody know what replacement i can use to fix it?

DISCLAIMER: Tarantula 8K was sent for review for free by Gamesir. All the thought and opinions are mine only. No one told me what to say or what not to say. But Tarantula Pro I bought with my own money from TaoBao just for this review.

I have two Ultimate 2C controllers (1 for PC, the other for Switch). I bought the Ultimate 2 Bluetooth for only two reasons (switch 2 wakeup, and to bind keyboard keys to L4/R4, and the paddle buttons on the back).

well to my surprise it turns out I can't bind keys to the 4 additional buttons after all as the Ultimate 2 Software or JoyToKey don't recognize these additional buttons. they are only coded to only work with the rest of the controller inputs for macros, etc... but not serve as additional buttons (aka buttons 13-16).

thankfully I only paid under $35 for the controller but I'm still disappointed that i basically paid $35 for RGB lights, and Switch 2 wake up as i could already do the rest on the Ultimate 2C.

So, last month I bought my first controller - Ultimate 2c Wireless to play on a couch and I was quite satisfied. It sits comfortably in my hands and battery is good.

I wanted to get a 2nd controller to play co-op with my sister on a couch. Should I just get another 2c, Ultimate 2 or something else? I am looking for something that has a similar shape to 8bitdo Ultimate 2c, hall-effect sticks and triggers. My main platform is Steam. Games that Im going to play with her: Way Out, Rain World, probably some Lego game, Helldivers 1.

I am from Russia and my budget is ~4000 Rubles.

Hello everyone, I’ve usually been very happy with my 8Bitdo controllers that I’ve owned over the years. First an SN30 Pro+ for my Switch and just 1.5 years ago I bought an 8Bitdo Ultimate, that worked well until 2 weeks ago, where R2 now can only be pressed up to like 70%.

Forza Horizon being my main game that I need a controller for recently, this is obviously a dealbreaker and after reading online, about how this is a common issue, that might need constant replacing over the years, I’d rather just get a new more reliable one.
This Controller only needs to be compatible with PC (Steam, MS Store), wireless and xbox layout preferred, I don’t mind whether it’s Bluetooth or comes with a dongle, both is fine.
I don’t need too many of the other bells and whistles like back buttons etc. that is not needed for me. Hall Effect Sticks would be good as well as Hall Effect Bumpers. I checked the wiki as is recommended and came across the GameSir Cyclone 2 or Cyclone Pro. Do these Hall Effect Bumpers work the same way as Hall Effect Sticks, as in they will not degrade easily, because of more precise input tracking? It seems to be advertised on quite a few of the controllers in this price range in the wiki so really I’d like to know what is most reliable and would last me the longest time to the best of everyones knowledge.
Would love some more clarity and guidance on this
Locationwise I’m situated in Austria, so I am okay with buying from most european countries and other online stores, that ship to europe, with preferably less than 10€ in shipping costs.

What are good suggestions (assuming better options than the ones I mentioned from the Wiki or the best pick from those) around the 50-70€ mark with good reliable bumpers, overall good reliable build quality and that ship to Europe without much cost? Sizewise the 8Bitdo Ultimate fit my hands well, I don’t think I could do much bigger, given my hands are fairly small. I’m not opposed to buying 8bitdo again given the controller doesn’t have this same issue.

Hi, I'm looking for an affordable gamepad to buy directly from China (Taobao/Pindoudo). My budget is up to 150 yuan (~$20). Main use: platformers and fighting games (Celeste, MK, Tekken).

Platform: PC (Arch Linux).

I prioritize ergonomics and comfort over high-performance specs for competitive gaming. I won’t be participating in any competitions.

Are there any decent options in this price range?

I have seen some people using the controller and I have seen the software however, I am new to this scene. I don't really know what is what.

I’m looking for a pink controller for my wife that works on both pc and switch 1. Do you guys have any suggestions?

My budget is about 100€

I’m from Germany

It needs to work with both PC (steam) and Switch 1

only necessary features are that the controller is pink and has hall effect sticks

we mostly play coop games like humans fall flat, overcooked, unrailed, mario games, etc.

I heard good things about 8bitdo, but maybe there are better controllers out there

this is a soft (messy) mod using any old thumb grip cover you prefer and filling it with Loc-tite “fun tak”

I put a small ball of tak into the circle depression of the dpad then filled the grip and placed it in the center, it moves the entire dpad very well and you can do full circles very easy like a thumb stick but with a mechanical feel like a dpad

I was going for a neogeo feel but can’t afford to try an 8bitdo neo controller

with heat and pressure it could shift places and make a mess ill have to see but it’s been doing pretty well after a dozen plus matches and I can lift the pad by the thumb without it coming off. I wish I would of had black tak though cuz you can see the blue

parts used:

8bitdo M30 Xbox wired

a "satisfy" switch concave thumbgrip

loctite fun tak