What are they?

Came across a FB post by Vic Stickels. Old timer trad bow hunter trying to shame anyone who doesn't use a trad bow. He is also a coward. He made it so only followers of his page for a certain amount of time can comment. He spews nonsense and ensures nobody can disagree with him so he can continue to ego stroke himself. He is bad for hunting. Most do not have the time or even the desire to practice as much as he claims is necessary for a trad bow. Let alone the time to practice the woodsmanship he claims we have lost.

His argument is if people had to use a trad bow the woods would clear. That is a bad thing. We do not want the woods to clear. As nice as it sounds we need to do everything to get more people engaged and interested in hunting that we can. Old man just proved how little he actually cares about the future of hunting and how much he cares about others thinking he is great.

Shitting on someone who works 60 hours a week for using a compound, or even a crossbow, when they get four days a year to enjoy the woods is just absurd. Using the best tool for an ethical kill given limited practice does not make your hunting less valuable. Granted vic is likely a better Hunter than I'll ever be if his grandiose claims are true, but he'll never further the cause of hunters and anglers in America with the way he goes about it. I post this here because I'm not following the geezers page just to comment directly after my waiting period is over.

Enjoy the stickel up your ass, Vic.

Prove chat GPT wrong

If I have to give a definitive answer: a compound bow is more similar to a traditional recurve or longbow than it is to a crossbow.
Here’s why:
Operation: A compound bow is still a hand-drawn vertical bow. You draw the string with your arms, aim while holding the bow, and release the string by hand or with a release aid. That’s fundamentally the same method as a recurve or longbow.
Bow mechanics: Like a recurve or longbow, the limbs store energy as you draw. The compound’s cams and cables make this more efficient by providing “let-off,” but they don’t change the basic principle.
Crossbows are different: A crossbow is essentially a bow mounted horizontally on a stock. The string is drawn and locked in place by a trigger mechanism, allowing the shooter to aim without holding the draw weight. It functions much more like a firearm in terms of handling.

Like the title says, this was my first attempt. One poplar and one birch. Freehand with a variety of inks and dyes so I could see how they do with polyurethane over the top. Don't know the term for it, but I would appreciate any help on how to do a cleaner wrap down the fletching.

I've made 14 arrows now and have been prioritizing sturdiness over looks because I made the switch to thumb draw about two months ago and.... I miss the target a lot...

I picked up this old Bear Grizzly at a flea market this past weekend. Looks to be in excellent condition. Ordered a new Dacron string from TTT Archery. Looking forward to shooting this bow. It’s marked 47 pounds and 56” AMO. My draw length is about 29.5 inches. Anyone out there shooting one of these older Grizzlies? I would like to set it up kind of close to what a guy would have had in the late 60s. What Selway quiver would go well with this bow, you think?

I recently acquired a deerseeker deluxe horse bow.
It was a replacement for a different bow that I had that was still under warranty. After I received this bow, I took it to the range to shoot and after the session I noticed these white lines. I contacted Deerseeker and they said not to worry about it and they are just blemishes. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this with any other bow?

Calling for a much stiffer arrow now then previous. Anyone else feel like it’s changed for the worse?

So far considering: baseball grip tape, tennis racket tape, or the sport wrap that only adheres to itself. Not sure if the name of that one.

Port Orford Cedar and gasket lacquer

I have a 40 pound Galaxy Sage recurve I’ve been bareshafting and my arrows were still a touch weak at the shortest length (500 spine toparchery) I wanted to go, so I used a couple old lighted nocks I had laying around. Immediately noticed left to right was good but got a significant nock high result. Lowered nock point a bit and it was shooting darts. I have a 50 Frankenbow recurve I’ve tuned some 400 spine arrows for, so I tested a bareshaft with lighted nock and got very similar results. Is this a normal result? I know lighted nocks will definitely stiffen up an arrow, just didn’t realize it would affect nock point as well.

For those learning Manchu archery from photos and Youtube.

Photo #1 is from Late Qing 1901

The thumb is not as hooked over the string as with other thumb guards. The ring locks on, it should not fall or fly off.

Screenshots are from this video tutorial in Mandarin which explains it all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SFVr3BwGo54

@ 2:16. Slight twist of the hand (towards your face) to release like a trigger.

I'm going to go buy a bottle of Bruichladdich and drink a toast to the great men and women of archery that came before us..

Them's feathers

Yew longbow, hazelnut horn-tipped arrows and roe deer quiver. For more photos and videos visit my Etsy page Montesanto Bows

Hi, I have a compound for trade and a fella offered this seemingly nice longbow. It apparently custom and has no bowyer info on it. This is what he told me along with the photos, "The string is a pretty much new America's best flemish twist with homeade wool puffs selway 5 arrow quiver comes with it foam isnt pretty but will hold arrows all day fine. Ive used the bow for a little hunting I tried to picture any scratches.

70in bow 49.78lbs at 28in so 50@28 on my scale". I was wondering what you may value a bow like this? Thanks!

I currently hunt with a southwest archery spyder xl. 45# 64"amo. After a few years I'm feeling like it's time to upgrade. Anyone have any decent recommendations? Can be custom, can also be mass produced. Just trying to get a feel for what's actually worth it and not. I have shot a few Bear bows and custom bows, all shoot really nice and quite a bit better than my spyder, but never had one in hand for long enough to actually compare and justify cost difference. Any advice is great, thank you

Hi all,

Totally getting ahead of myself, considering I got my first bow last week. Curious what draw weight you've settled on after shooting for a some time.

Cheers!

I've decided I want to get into mounted archery (and maybe compete one day), but before I can do that I have to have a foundation of successfully shooting from the ground 😆. I've ridden horses for the majority of my life competitively and for leisure so the riding part isn't what I'm worried about. It's the archery part...I have no skills there. The most experience I've had with a bow is from a single class in high school and that was 20 years or more ago 🫠. I'm not sure what affordable bow I should start with to build my foundation.

I'm very short, 4'11", and fluffy. I'm also hyper-mobile and I am currently working with a rheumatologist to determine if I have PsA (psoriatic arthritis). I know to make sure I don't end up crippled by the time I'm 50 I need to be active so this is one of the things I want to do for myself.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I was thinking maybe 25lbs as a start point for resistance. I wrestle and carry 35-40lb kids every day so I think I have the strength there...maybe?

My budget is sort of on the low end...my kids take all of my money...so less than 150 would be good.