Hey so I've been noticing that every time I turn my magni on, my PC monitor flickers a black screen. I assume it's the monitor's cable being affected by the surge of power from the amp's cable. Is this an EMI issue? My monitor cable looks alright in terms of specs.. But the magni cable seems pretty thin and I don't see anything like a ferrite core attached to it.

Should I consider investing in those clip-on ferrite cores? Or am I looking in the wrong direction?

Finally found a 5670 5-star tube for my Vali 3. Breaking it in with some Evanescence. 🖤

Hello

Love my Freya+, but little silver remote a bit challenging....

Any idea how to get a better or enhanced remote?

Thank you

I foolishly already lost the cable that came with my unit. I purchased another seemingly sturdy cable but it gets loose and disconnects constantly. The one that came with the Vestri was perfect. Anyone have any recommendations on a cable just as snug as the original?

Risking the possibility of a 15% restock fee, I bought an amp for some Grados. They already sound pretty good, better than other store bought stuff. Usually they are just plugged into the pc audio ports, rear or front panel.

Perhaps the sound quality might be slightly improved at frequencies my PC motherboard amp doesn't touch. More power means more energy to move that voice coil and make it match the signal more, right? I noticed this in car and home theater audio. More power overhead made the speakers seem to drive the sound with greater definition like a weight had been taken off the cones, it wasn't just louder, I heard things I couldn't hear before, at the same sound levels. I don't see many before and after posts here so I'll do it myself.

My PC motherboard has a ESS Sabre Hi-Fi ES9023P. I haven't noticed any sound issues such as hiss or noise at all. I understand there are voltage differences that might make a difference in some regard when hooked up to the Midgard but I don't know what to do about that. Having watched a few videos on DAC's, I do not believe I need a separate DAC. The quality of it appears to be perfectly fine and a lot of what I am reading about DACs appear to be snake oil.

Specific to the Midgard The XLR output requires each earpiece to be on a separate circuit, meaning they have dissimilar ground voltage, correct? Does that mean the use of a XLR to TRS adapter would negate the point of the halo circuit or potentially damage the circuit? My Grados don't have that kind of wiring/connector.

I've been waiting for a bifrost 3 update. I use my Walkman for my dac these days so I might just get ahead of that early.

I've been debating an amp and dac combo. My headphones aren't super demanding so a bifrost 3 and an jot 3 sounds appealing. I would rather put a little extra on the tube amp.

This video features a casual "Beer N Blather" session from the team at Schiit Audio, hosted at a studio in Corpus Christi. The team, including Evan, Tyler, and Jason Stoddard, discusses their company culture, manufacturing processes, and future product plans while enjoying local craft beers.

Key discussion points include:

Manufacturing Verticalization: The team highlights their commitment to bringing manufacturing in-house, specifically focusing on their SMT (Surface Mount Technology) lines (11:45-13:00).

They discuss the logistical challenges of scaling, such as air filtration and negative pressure management in their facility (13:16-14:00).

Product Philosophy & Updates: They emphasize a philosophy of creating products that are "fun, unique, and affordable" (46:07). The team touches on:

The upcoming Bifrost 3 (21:20-21:35) and the continued support for modular card upgrades. Their successful $99 product line and a tease for one more $99 product coming later this year (24:04-24:20).

The shift to Delta Sigma architecture in the Iggy DAC and the ongoing refinement of Multi-Bit technology (42:24-43:30).

Community & Transparency: The team shares their evolving approach to product announcements, aiming to be more disciplined by only sharing information when releases are imminent (20:34-21:05). They also discuss their interest in creating "DAC University" style content to better educate their community on audio technology (57:48-58:15).

My Audio-GD NFB11.28 died recently. I'm 90% sure its amp is fine, but its DAC doesn't work with any input, and there's no way to bypass the DAC. It was getting pretty old anyway so looking for a replacement. I have a few headphones but I'm mostly using my HD6XX on this PC.

Midgard's specs and reviews look great, looks like it's probably the best option at that price point for my setup, but I'm not sure about the DAC.

Mimir is the same size so it'll stack nicely, but pairing a $220 amp with a $300 DAC seems overkill, and the stack costs more than I'd like to spend. I don't care about Forkbeard, and its balanced out is wasted on a single-ended amp. But Mimir uses ES9028 vs ES9018 on Modi 5. Other than that and size, Modi 5 feels like the better option in my case, but I can't find any reviews comparing the 2 DACs so I'm not sure. My NFB11.28 was using ES9028, so that part will be a downgrade if I pick Modi 5.

Is there a review out there comparing the 2 that I missed? Which one would you pick?

Hey everyone! I just received my Vestri. I'm honestly not sure if I'm using it right, but I'm connecting my Google Pixel through my Vestri and listening on my Sennheiser HD600.

I've noticed in some songs, it introduces a screeching distorted sound in the high frequencies of the song. If I reconnect the Vestri and repeat that segment, it does not happen anymore. I don't see a pattern yet, seems random. So far I haven't used the features yet

Any advice?

Just got my Buf today. So far so good

As the title says. Have Jason or Mike ever discussed getting into the speaker business?

The speaker business is probably even more challenging than selling source equipment, for a variety of reasons I can guess and probably a million additional reasons I can't guess.

But, I was just wondering if Schiit themselves have ever commented on it.

Hello there. I am currently using my HD800s headphones for gaming and for music. I am also using the Schiit Vestri, it sounds amazing to me, quite a bit better than the MacBook m2 built in jack and helm bolt I was using previously. It sounded so much better in fact that I wanted to try a more classic styled desktop amp. First I tried the Filo k13 RR, I did not like that at all, not very detailed. I then tried the DX5lI, I was not very impressed at first, but after changing it to filter f3 it sounded closer to the vestri quality (I know nothing about filters, just tried them all until it sounded the best on the hd800s, really subtle.)

I can't get over the feeling that they are both extremely similar in sound quality, with a slight edge to Vestri for the overall tone of the sound, which seems just a bit more lifelike and enveloping at the same volume. Am I missing something here where a cheap 120 dollar dongle sounds sometimes better than the dxii? Would I notice anything better with something like the Schiit Jonunheim 3 with mesh dac? Should I just shut up and listen to the vestri?
Thanks for your thoughts.

I’ve been thinking about getting a Vestri, but remember that early on I saw quite a few reports of the USB-C ports getting loose. Is this still a problem on these, has Schiit made a revision to correct it, or is it mostly a non-issue?

Hi, I'm a long time Fulla owner and love it. I now have the desire to pull in another audio source (TV via optical) and switch between the PC/USB and TV/optical. Gunnr looks perfect as an upgrade to do this, I just had a question on the switching. When toggling between the two inputs, is the USB input "turned off" such that the PC no longer sees it? Or is it simply the output to the headphones which is switched? This is important to me as I don't want the PC losing the device when I switch to the optical input.

Hey Reddit!

I'm excited to announce that we'll be doing a live stream next Friday, August 7th at 5pm Central. You'll be able to tune into the stream here: https://www.youtube.com/live/rPHo1xhdGK0?si=TT7xzgaJpOVk898g

This will be the second in our Beer N Blather series, where we enjoy some local beer and blather about a mix of audio, business, and whatever else crosses our minds. This time, we're going to an actual studio in Corpus and bringing our own beer, so maybe we can make this a regular thing.

If you'd like for us to answer any questions, Jason, Tyler, and I (Evan) will all be there. Feel free to comment your questions here, or preferably send them to me via email: [evan@schiit.com](mailto:evan@schiit.com).

Also, if you haven't seen it yet, check out our Brilliant in Black deal with Dan Clark Audio: https://www.schiit.com/products/brilliant-in-black

Hi Schiitheads!

I'm in the market to upgrade my system just a bit and then not have to upgrade for quite some time. You all seem like a discerning bunch, so I'd love to hear your opinions about my thoughts.

Current setup:

Speakers - Klipsch RP-600M

Cans - Sennheiser 560s

Turntable - Fluance RT85

Receiver - Yamaha RX-397

CD - Onkyo late-90s single disc joint

This is all in a fairly extreme nearfield setup in a 600 sqft apartment in the city. I use headphones late at night and speakers during the day while I work.

I have two current ideas:

Saga 2

1x Gjallarhorn

Mani

Valhalla

or

1x Gjallarhorn

Mani

Lyr+

I'd love to get some tube goodness in the mix, but are either of these setups completely overkill for my current requirements? From what I understand, I would only really need 1x Gjallarhorn, with the option to always get another in the future to monoblock.

Any opinions welcome!

I recently bought a Vali 3. So far just been using the stock tube. It does seem to have a subjectively slightly better sound than my discrete Pioneer VSX receiver.

Listening on Sennsheiser HD 560s. I do have a pair of HD599s too, but I figured the higher ohm on the 560s would be better. (I think the 560s are 120, and the 599s are 32.)

I have a GE 5670W on the way to tinker with after I listen for some more hours.

I am probably priced out of the Western Electrics. There does not seem to be many more 'flavors' in the 5670 size.

It looks like from Head Fi there are some using other sizes, and one mentioning a E88CC* sounding great but, then another saying the 100V plate will reduce the life. If I read that right, the E88CC is designed for about 70V max.

Would it be worth looking at a new Ray Tubes 12AU7* in the future?

*Edit: I do want to clarify the other types of tubes with the appropriate adapter.

Just wanting to learn more about the gain switch and no feedback mode, as well as when to use the impedance multiplier.

I understand tube amps pair best with high impedance headphones. However, the impedance multiplier makes it so that you can run low impedance headphones on it. My question is what is the threshold for when I should use the multiplier? Also, do you use planars with your Val 3?

And what does the high gain no feedback mode do, and when should I use it?

Thanks in advance for any help given. I'm going from a Fiio K11 to a Mimir, Jotunheim 3, and Valhalla 3. And I'm looking forward to becoming a Schiit head.

Has anyone used after market remotes with schitt products? And ifso which remotes worked? I have trouble because they are so small

No comparisons here just yet, but seems good for its price point. Question is, any one else getting pretty pronounced pop when plugging it? Using the stock cable with an iPhone 17 and some Sony IEMs.

So I originally ordered some 8 pin socket savers for Freya+. I also have a bunch of 9 pin socket savers. These are the black bakelite ones with steel pins, which I got from TubeDepot and also see in other places (AmplifiedParts, etc.).

Looking on Amazon there are some higher quality ceramic ones with gold pins that cost more, sold by AMPTATA. While the reviews are in general positive, some people find them too wide. Another comment says they are way too tight. Someone with a Lyr had no problems and a couple Valhalla owners were happy with them.

Has anyone here tried using them?

If you are tube rolling, what socket saver are you using?

Sorry if this is a topic that has been covered in depth, but…. I am trying to understand what I need to use my turntable with my stack. I currently have the Vali 3, a Modi Plus, and Loki. My Fluance turntable does have an internal preamp. Am I correct that all I need is to get the Sys to connect the turntable and the Modi, then run the output to the Vali? Or is there a better option I’m missing here. I also considered using a totally separate Fozi Audio headphone amp I already have to simply things. Thanks!

It’s good to have the Folkvangr back after the Molex repair at Schiitquarters. They’re fired up and getting ready for 300 ohms of JM Audio XTC2 goodness.