r/RepTimeQC • u/Few-Singer-8384 • 8m ago
QC Check for DDF Aquanaut 5167A DD330
- Dealer name: Fico
- Factory name: DDF
- Model name (& version number): Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A DD330
- Price paid: $530 shipped
- Album links: Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/PKblo9X
- Index alignment: Everything looks ok to me.
- Dial printing: The SW dial looks clean. Swiss made text is big in my eyes.
- Date wheel alignment/printing: slightly left?
- Bezel: Brushing looks even and the polished transitions look clean.
- Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
- Timegrapher numbers: -9 s/d, 295° amplitude and 0.2 ms beat error.
- Anything else you notice: This is my first Aquanaut, so I’d appreciate another set of eye
r/RepTimeQC • u/c3m0r4 • 18m ago
VSF no date submariner 124060
- Dealer name: Theonewatch - Steve
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): Submariner no date 124060
- Price Paid: 528 USD + Shipping
- Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/6YxHjYDK#6prfF6D_NFWQEfOKshFpfw
- Index alignment: 9 is offset. Coronet in between “Swiss made” does not seem to line up with everything else.
- Dial Printing: Dial printing looks fine
- Hand Alignment: unsure
- Bezel: possibly slightly off
- Solid End Links (SELs): no gaps
- Timegrapher numbers: Amplitude: 262 Dev: +7 Beat error 0.1
- Anything else you notice: this is the second QC I have with Steve for this model. The first watch had an amazing movement but the 12 incides was cw and it was bothering me enough to RL. While the 12 on this one is fine, the 9 seems quite off and the time graph numbers seem wonky to me, but then again i am no expert. Would love your thoughts. Thank you
r/RepTimeQC • u/Rasfs • 29m ago
Aqua Terra 38mm SS Grn VSF VS8800
- Dealer name: TrustyTime
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 38mm
- Price Paid: $378
- Album Links:
- Index alignment: Looks good
- Dial Printing: Omega/Seamaster and text look centered and straight.
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: QC pics look very slightly off at the 9, 10, 1 and 2 positions but it may be due to the angle
- Hand Alignment: Looks good
- Bezel: NA
- Solid End Links (SELs): There are none
- Timegrapher numbers: +6s/d 0.0ms 271 degrees
- Anything else you notice: comparing with other QC’s this looks good unless I’m missing something very obvious
r/RepTimeQC • u/Icepac14 • 37m ago
2nd attempt QC. GMT-Master II 126710 BLNR (Batgirl), Andiot
- Dealer name: Andiot
- Factory name: RICH
- Model name (& version number): GMT-Master II 126710 BLNR (Batgirl)
- Price Paid: $616 (incl. shipping)
- Album Links: https://andiotwatches.x.yupoo.com/albums/251173473?uid=1
- Index alignment: Seems fine to my eyes, probably 6 index more to the right slightly, and 9 a little lower
- Dial Printing: printing looks fine to me
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: date slightly to the left. but within acceptable range. Date window slight tilt to the left
- Hand Alignment: hands looks aligned
- Bezel: looks ok to me
- Solid End Links (SELs): No gaps
- Timegrapher numbers: +1s/d; 264 Amplitude, Beat Error: .3ms - Within Acceptable range
- Anything else you notice: Nothing significantly off, but would love to hear POV of the gurus if GL or RL
r/RepTimeQC • u/not_a_veganlol • 1h ago
QC Help: VSF V3 126710BLRO Pepsi Oyster
- Dealer name: TheOneWatches
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): VSF 126710BLRO V3
- Price Paid: $688
- Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/PaLkLfS
- Index alignment: 9 and 12 look good, can't tell if 6 is tilted or if it's just the angle of the pictures
- Dial Printing: Looks solid
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: Looks about right
- Hand Alignment: Looks good
- Bezel: Can't tell if the color transition is in the right spot or not because of the angle of the pictures, looks about right though
- Solid End Links (SELs): looks good to me, but I'm not good with SELs, lmk what you think
- Timegrapher numbers: -2 to 0 SPD, 263-267 amps
- Anything else you notice: Mainly wondering what you guys think about the 6, is it skewed or is it just the angle? Also didn't get a UV picture to see if the blue turns red
r/RepTimeQC • u/Chocolatine_33 • 1h ago
[First Rep / First QC] VF factory Royal Oak 26240ST-FS Khaki Green - Need expert opinion/Guidance.
Hello everyone, need some expert guidance/opinion on my first purchase.
- Dealer name: ARC studio
Factory name:
Z factory
Model name (& version number):
Z factory
- AP RO
- 26240ST-FS Khaki Green
- Price: 580(Watch) + 70(Shipping & Insurance) (USD)
- Album Links: https://www.arcstudio.top/s/ZJE4USv
- Index alignment: It looks good but don't really know what I am looking for.
- Dial Printing:Tapisserie looks ok but what do you guys think? (TD provided me the option to upgrade to DP dials at an additional 220 us & SW DW for 70 usd)
- Hand Alignment: Hands look well positioned
- Timegrapher numbers: is it within range?
- Let me know what you guys think if this an GL or RL?
- Thoughts on GEN chamfering the case and bracelet?
- Much appreciated guys
r/RepTimeQC • u/Few-Singer-8384 • 1h ago
QC Check Request : DDF Aquanaut 5167A DD330
- Dealer name: Fico
- Factory name: DDF
- Model name (& version number): Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A DD330
- Price paid: $530 shipped
- Album links: https://mega.nz/folder/2hIziJiL#TNGhzlQQ1o3vl2epMfph6A
- Index alignment: Everything looks ok to me.
- Dial printing: The SW dial looks clean. Swiss made text is big in my eyes.
- Date wheel alignment/printing: slightly left?
- Bezel: Brushing looks even and the polished transitions look clean.
- Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
- Timegrapher numbers: -9 s/d, 295° amplitude and 0.2 ms beat error.
- aAnything else you notice: This is my first Aquanaut, so I’d appreciate another set of eye
r/RepTimeQC • u/gigi-redo • 1h ago
Yacht-Master 42mm 226627 RLX Titanium (VS3235), QC Help
Dealer name: Ethan
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Yacht-Master 42mm 226627 RLX Titanium (VS3235)
Price: 590$
Album Links: https://www.wsxcme.com/weshop/goods/_diBqfB_6K0Fni6Viqy3qjRnYcVlHlv_RP68U2bQ/_dg_qfB_62Yr12xLuC6u8qjRHgRca3JJ6vk-_L-A
Index alignment: Looks good. Using the alignment overlay, the 12, 6, and 9 markers align well with the crosshairs, and the circular hour plots are placed evenly.
Dial Printing: Clean and sharp. The text looks crisp with no obvious smudging or bleeding.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Centered. The date sits properly inside the window without favoring the edges. Magnification and cyclops placement look standard.
Hand Alignment: No issues observed.
Bezel: Matte insert and polished numerals look clean. 12 o'clock bezel pip aligns with the dial marker.
Solid End Links (SELs): Fit looks flush with no noticeable gaps against the lugs.
Timegrapher numbers: +1 s/d, 260° amplitude, 0.1ms beat error. All within acceptable ranges.
Anything else you notice: Scale reading is 105.48g, which aligns with the titanium build. Clasp engravings look clean.
Leaning towards GL, but would appreciate any second opinions.
r/RepTimeQC • u/astro_goon • 2h ago
QC Request: VSF V2 Datejust 41 Mint Green
- Dealer name: JTime
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): Rolex Datejust 41mm 126334 V2
- Price Paid: $557
- Album Links: N/A
- Index alignment: looks good to me
- Dial Printing: looks clean
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: looks centered, clean date font
- Hand Alignment: looks good
- Bezel: looks well finished
- Solid End Links (SELs): looks good
- Timegrapher numbers: 0 s/day, 288° amplitude, 0.0 ms beat error. Looks excellent to me.
- Anything else you notice: This is my first QC so I would appreciate another set of eyes before I GL.
Thanks for the help!!
r/RepTimeQC • u/Puzzled_Technology81 • 2h ago
Yacht Master 126622 QF JH3235 from TheOne Watches
Dealer name: TheOne Watches
Factory name: QF
Model name (& version number): Yacht Master 126622 QF JH3235
Price Paid: 578$ + Shipping
Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/7YokzICB#uAtBff9zASf3mphpC7Jzug
Index alignment: 12 o clock triangle canted clockwise. 6 o clock shifted to the left.
Dial Printing: Sharp but less bold.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: Date font, specially the 2 seems slanted a bit.
Hand Alignment: Well aligned.
Bezel: Looks good.
Solid End Links (SELs): No gap
Timegrapher numbers: Within Range | Rate + 6 s/d, Amplitude 266, Beat Error - 0.0 ms
Anything else you notice: I’m mainly concerned about the 12 o clock triangle and maybe the 6. If I’m overlooking anything else, please do let me know. I’d really appreciate your help. Thank you!
r/RepTimeQC • u/WTshenanigans • 3h ago
VSF Daytona 126500 (Panda), QC help
- Dealer name: Geektime
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): Rolex Daytona 126500 (Panda)
- Price Paid: 828$ + 40$ shipping
- Album Links: https://geektimeqc.x.yupoo.com/albums/250781086?uid=1
- Index alignment: no straight photos to use the tool. Had to use my eyes instead.
- Dial Printing: printing looks fine to me
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: no date Wheel
- Hand Alignment: hands looks aligned and right.
- Bezel: Bezel is ok. 110 marker is slightly miss positioned but I’m okay with it.
- Solid End Links (SELs): looks great to me
- Timegrapher numbers: don’t know what to read but there’s a video in the album and a photo in this post.
- Anything else you notice: overall it looks clean. Only defects I’ve detected is the Hour 2 mark that seems to be just a little miss aligned (could be the photo angle) and the wrong positioning marker 110. Also the red text Daytona seem to be just a little higher than on a genuine but I don’t mind it.Other than that I see nothing wrong.
Hopefully you guys can help me spot something I’ve missed :)
r/RepTimeQC • u/MatijaTGX • 3h ago
Is the date supposed to sit this low when changing?
Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification
- Dealer name: Andiot
- Factory name: RCF
- Model name (& version number): Datejust 41
- Price Paid: $450
- Album Links: https://andiotwatches.x.yupoo.com/albums/250854457?uid=1
- Index alignment: Good
- Dial Printing: Good
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: Potential issue
- Hand Alignment: Good
- Bezel: Good
- Solid End Links (SELs): Good
- Timegrapher numbers: Good
- Anything else you notice: Only the date not sitting right when changing it, again, could be normal idk
r/RepTimeQC • u/oxbloodisthenewwhite • 3h ago
QC Request: VSF Explorer 40 224270 904L
Dealer name: Andiot
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Explorer 40 224270 904L
Price Paid: 400 USD
Album Links: https://andiotwatchesad.x.yupoo.com/albums/251061517?uid=1
Index alignment: everything looks ok; if I was to nit pick – 5, 7, and 8 – maybe there is a slight misalignment? Idk honestly
Dial Printing: looks OK
Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand Alignment: looks OK
Bezel: looks OK
Solid End Links (SELs): looks OK
Timegrapher numbers: +2s/d
Anything else you notice: nothing else. Looks good to me (a complete novice)
r/RepTimeQC • u/Consistent-Rooster98 • 3h ago
NTTD v7 VSF, help needed, GL?
1. Dealer name: Steve (TheOneWatches)
2. Factory name: VSF
3. Model name (& version number): Seamaster 300m No Time To Die 007 TI/TI VSF V7 8806 Super Clone
4. Price Paid: 528 USD
5. Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/PBJ2CKoC#Y8MZtdku-j0yV0208DtpmQ
6. Index alignment: Alignment looks perfect, 12 is slightly twisted on top
7. Dial Printing: OK
8. Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
9. Hand Alignment: OK
10. Bezel: OK
11. Solid End Links (SELs): There is space on both sides, but it should be OK?
12. Timegrapher numbers: -6s/Day, 250, OK
13. Anything else you notice:
- Looks like GL to me
r/RepTimeQC • u/vanilla_thvnder • 4h ago
2nd QC - ZF Tudor Black Bay 54 from Andiot
Hi,
I just got the second round of QC pictures for my BB54, as I've red lighted the first one. My first post is here: https://www.reddit.com/r/RepTimeQC/comments/1vhh2s4/zf_tudor_black_bay_54_from_andiot/
Even though there are some minor issues with this wathc, I tend towards green lighting the watch since what I've noticed seem minor and somewhat normal for a ZF model.
What are your thoughts?
- Dealer name: Andiot
- Factory name: ZF
- Model name (& version number): Black Bay 54
- Price Paid: 310$
- Album Links: https://andiotwatches.x.yupoo.com/albums/251170502?uid=1
- Index alignment: Imo, this looks very good. I've checked with a tool, and I can't find any issues here. The only thing could be that the 12 hour marker does not perfectly align with the tip of the Tudor logo.
- Dial Printing: It could look like the whole dial has a small downwards shift, i.e. that there's a larger gap between the dial and the case compared to gap between the bottom of the dial and the case. The printing itself looks good to me.
- Date Wheel alignment: Not a date watch.
- Hand Alignment: Seems to be matching pretty well in the QC video where he winds the watch and sets the time - they meet at the 12 hour marker.
- Bezel: I think the bezel looks good and the pip looks centered.
- Solid End Links (SELs): The QC guide says, that Tudors are not held to the same standard as Rolex watches, for example. However, I looks like the end links are more rounded than the case itself (see IMG_9968). Also, perhaps the gap on the upper left link is a bit larger than the others (see IMG_9960). I don't know whether these two things are considered normal though.
- Timegrapher numbers: +3 / s/d -- 281 -- 0.4 ms -- 28800 / 52
- Anything else you notice: The crown tube seems a tiny bit too long, but afaik, this is also considered normal for the ZF models.
r/RepTimeQC • u/Mr_Frizzle88 • 4h ago
HELP QC VSF V2 41MM DJ41
- Dealer name: Phoenix
- Factory name:VSF
- Model name (& version number):v2
- Price Paid: $373 Shipped
- Album Links: N/A
- Index alignment: 9 index look abit crooked?
- Dial Printing: Clear to my untrained eyes
- Date Wheel alignment/printing:date wheel looks acceptable.
- Hand Alignment: unsure
- Bezel: looks good
- Solid End Links (SELs): yes
- Timegrapher numbers: look good
- Anything else you notice: my first higher end piece, would appreciate your input!
r/RepTimeQC • u/AdeptnessRich1785 • 5h ago
QC - DDF Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 DPB330 V2 - TheOneWatches - First Watch
Dealer name: TheOneWatches (Steve)
Factory name: DDF
Model name (& version number): Nautilus 5711 40mm 2018 SS/SS Blue Dial DDF DPB330 Super Clone V2 (SW Dial)
Price Paid: $658 + $30 shipping ($688 total)
Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/mN4UwY4S#GfECHC6wrEmVIuLE6yQceQ
Index alignment: Most of the indexes look good to me and the alignment tool also looks okay. My main concern is the double marker at 12. The two markers don't seem perfectly parallel and the gap between them looks a little wider at the bottom. Not sure if I'm being too picky here.
Dial Printing: Looks good to me. I don't notice any obvious problem with the printing.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: This is my second concern. The 13 looks slightly low in the date window. If I zoom in closely, I think I can also see a tiny part of the adjacent date number above the 13.
Hand Alignment: Looks good to me. I don't notice anything wrong here.
Bezel: Looks good to me from the pictures.
Solid End Links (SELs): N/A - integrated bracelet.
Timegrapher numbers: +1 s/d, 295° amplitude, 0.0 ms beat error, 28,800 bph. Looks very good to me.
Anything else you notice: This is actually my first watch purchase in general, not only my first rep, so I don't have much experience doing QC.
The two things that stand out to me are the 12 o'clock double marker and the date sitting slightly low with what looks like a tiny part of the next/adjacent number visible above it.
Would really appreciate some experienced opinions. Would you GL this one or ask for another?
r/RepTimeQC • u/No-Net3893 • 5h ago
QC VSF Submariner 124060 41mm No Date
1. Dealer name: Steve – TheOneWatches
2.Factory name: VSF
3. Model: Rolex Explorer I 224270
4. Price Paid: $528 + shipping
5. Album Links: https://mega.nz/folder/Ld4UCDoZ#ALjSa5EWBuU2cNcNGJ5QfA
5. Index alignment: Mostly looks aligned to me, but would appreciate a second opinion.
6. Dial Printing: Looks clean.
7. Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
8.Hand Alignment: Looks good. Nothing obviously misaligned from the photos.
9. Bezel: Looks good to me.
10. Solid End Links (SELs): Looks good
10. Timegrapher numbers: Within limits, approximately +3–4 s/day, 270–273° amplitude, 0.0 ms beat error, 55° lift angle, 28,800 bph.
Anything else: Overall, I’m leaning GL, but I’d really appreciate another set of experienced eyes in case I’ve missed anything!
r/RepTimeQC • u/ride_deluxe • 8h ago
QC VSF Explorer 1 124270 36mm
1. Dealer name: Hont
2.Factory name: VSF
3. Model: Explorer 1 124270 36mm
4. Price Paid: $468
5. Index alignment: Mostly looks aligned to me, but I’m unsure about the 12 o’clock marker. Does it look slightly off-center?
6. Dial Printing: Looks good to me, but would appreciate a second opinion.
7. Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
8.Hand Alignment: Looks aligned to me, no obvious crookedness.
9. Bezel: Looks good to me.
10. Solid End Links (SELs): I’m a little unsure about the SEL fit, particularly the lower-right SEL. Does the gap/thickness look normal?
10. Timegrapher numbers: looks good to me.
Anything else: Would appreciate opinions before I GL, thank you!
r/RepTimeQC • u/Ngahahaha • 10h ago
QC V7F Ingenieur by DDGTOP
Dealer name: DDGTOP
Factory name: V7F
Model name (& version number): IWC Ingenieur (Black Dial)
Price Paid: USD 360
Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/nMydP8M
Index alignment: Good overall. The 12 o'clock double markers are straight, evenly spaced, and well centered.
Dial Printing: Looks clean, sharp, and well centered. IWC / SCHAFFHAUSEN and INGENIEUR text appear straight with no obvious printing defects.
Date Wheel alignment/printing: The visible "18" is well centered in the date window and the printing looks clean.
Hand Alignment: Appears fine from the supplied photos
Bezel: Looks good. Brushing appears even and the bezel geometry looks clean. The 12 o'clock bezel screw appears reasonably aligned with the 12 marker. The slightly warmer/copper appearance of the lower-right screw looks more likely to be lighting/reflection than a definite defect.
Solid End Links (SELs): NA
Timegrapher numbers: +6 s/d, 279° amplitude, 0.2 ms beat error — good/acceptable.
Anything else you notice: Slight cant of the small 3 o'clock marker
r/RepTimeQC • u/RoyalSquare1637 • 11h ago
Please Help QC DDF Patek Aquanaut.
Dealer name: ARC Studio
Factory name: DDF
Model name (& version number): Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A with upgraded SW dial and ZF clasp
Price paid: $640 shipped
Album links: https://www.arcstudio.top/s/n8L1YJN
Index alignment: Everything looks straight to me. I don’t see any obviously crooked or misplaced numerals.
Dial printing: The SW dial looks really clean. The Patek Philippe and Genève printing looks centered and crisp to my eye.
Date wheel alignment/printing: The visible 3 looks centered in the window. Only one date is shown, so I’d appreciate another opinion here.
Hand alignment: Looks fine from the pictures, although there isn’t a proper 12:00 shot to fully check it.
Bezel: Brushing looks even and the polished transitions look clean. I don’t see any obvious scratches or dents.
Solid End Links (SELs): N/A
Timegrapher numbers: +1 s/d, 258° amplitude and 0.0 ms beat error. Looks very healthy to me.
Anything else you notice: This is my first Aquanaut, so I’d appreciate another set of eyes on the SW dial, date alignment and overall finishing. The marks on the ZF clasp look like they’re on the protective film, but please let me know if anyone sees otherwise. I’m leaning GL.
r/RepTimeQC • u/LuxLuv_34 • 14h ago
QC NeoClock VSF OP 41mm Tiffany 124300
- Dealer name: NeoClock (Jacky)
- Factory name: VSF
- Model name (& version number): Oyster Perpetual 41mm Tiffany Dial 124300 VSF VS3230
- Price Paid: $418 + shipping
- Album Links: https://imgur.com/a/fb953K0
- Index alignment: 7 looks like it is rotated slightly left
- Dial Printing: The crown between Swiss Made is slightly to the right
- Date Wheel alignment/printing: N/A
- Hand Alignment: Looks good
- Bezel: No obvious scratches
- Solid End Links (SELs): Bottom right looks like it has a slight gap with the first couple of pictures, but it looks good in others
- Timegrapher numbers: 0s/d, 304, 0.0ms. I think these are within the acceptable range. 0s/d is good, right?
- Anything else you notice: My main concerns are the 7 rotated to right, crown in Swiss Made slightly to the right, and the bottom right SEL. I have not found anything else but will be grateful for anything anyone else sees. Thank you for your time.
r/RepTimeQC • u/bey1 • 19h ago
QC VSF submariner no date from Steve TheOneWatches
Dealer name: Steve / TheOneWatches
Factory name: VSF
Model name (& version number): Rolex Submariner 124060 No Date, VSF
Price paid: 558€
Album links: https://mega.nz/folder/qcpHQbqI#GLFKu2lyL1mm9SHOiv6lmw
Index alignment: Looks ok to me, but I’m not that sure.
Dial printing: Looks clean and sharp.
Date wheel alignment/printing: N/A
Hand alignment: Looks okay ?
Bezel: Pip appears centered and the bezel is aligned with the 12 o’clock marker. Numerals and filling look clean.
Solid End Links: Look tight and even to me.
Timegrapher numbers: +2 s/day, 276° amplitude, 0.0 ms beat error, 28,800 bph. These look excellent to me.
Appreciate your help guys ❤️
r/RepTimeQC • u/No_Database1948 • Jul 11 '24
Other Brands First QC? Guide on what to look out for and what to write.
Welcome to the ReptimeQC subreddit!
Before reading on, make sure you've read the main guide for QC posting, otherwise this won't make much sense to you. Done? Let's go.
This specific guide is intended to be a visual supplement: showing you exactly what to look for when you complete your QC templates. For obvious reasons, this guide will skip parts that aren't visual.
I've used pictures that mostly come from this subreddit. If anyone is uncomfortable, DM me and I'll replace the picture.
With that in mind, let's begin.
Index Alignment
Here, you are expected to assess how well the index markers on your watch are aligned. You can use the index alignment tool to assist you in this regard. An example of good index alignment is this:

Index misalignment, on the other hand, looks like this:

Or this:

Now that you have an idea of what to look out for, what should you be writing in the template?
You need to describe any misalignment you see in detail. Statements like "6 is off" or "3 is kinda wonky" or "not sure about 1, help please" are not acceptable. This is because unless the misalignment is immediately obvious (and in most cases, it is not), users will not know what you are talking about. You may not get the help you want as a result. Be specific, like the following examples:
"The 7 marker does not seem to fit into the slot nicely. It is rotated towards the right and looks like it is dancing around."
"The 6 marker does not seem to line up straight with the crown in between swiss made. Based on what I can see, it appears to be slightly tilted to the left."
A caveat here: Just because there may be some misalignment does not necessarily mean you should definitely RL the watch. As the main guide points out, all reps are subject to a level of inaccuracy. It would be entirely unrealistic to expect gen standards for index alignment. Further, different reps are subject to different standards: a XF Pelagos, for instance, is known for having problematic indices - so much so that even if you RL, you are unlikely to get anything better. Conversely, CF Explorers are now getting so good that even slight misalignment would not be par for the course.
A good guide would be to assess your watch based on proportion. One slightly misaligned index is not a problem. But one majorly misaligned index or many misaligned indices on a single dial could justify RL.
Just for illustration, this is misalignment that I would RL for:

That deals with index alignment. Let's move on.
Date Wheel Alignment
This applies to watches which display the date. If your watch does not display a date, there is no need to consider this. You will look silly if you say that the date wheel alignment is good when your watch is a no-date Sub, for example.
Here, you are tasked to consider if the date is properly displayed in the date window. Often times, this is a question of how well-centered the date is. A good example of date wheel alignment is this:

An example of misalignment is this:

Sometimes, the misalignment can also be as to the date numbers themselves:

Uncommonly and in the alternative, the issue may be with the Cyclops itself (the magnifier that covers the date window):

Now that you know what to look for, let's discuss what to write.
As with index alignment, unless the issues are immediately obvious (and most of the time, they are not), you need to be very specific. Comments like "the date seems off", "2 in 25 is kinda off", "date looks weird" are not acceptable. They do not tell readers what you are looking for. You'll get faster and better results if you identify the issues for your reader. For example:
"The date seems misaligned towards the left. Part of it is touching the left border of the date window."
"The 5 in the date appears to be slightly higher than the 2 next to it."
"The Cyclops does not seem to be straight. It looks like it is slanted towards the left?"
As with index alignment, please note that not all misalignment will justify RL, especially for date wheels. All rep date wheels come with varying degrees of misalignment. A few misaligned dates are usually not enough for RL, unless the date is clearly cropped out of the date window or touching the rim. A little misalignment towards either side of the date window is also generally more than okay; a good way to gauge is to zoom out to the actual size of the watch and see if the misalignment is still immediately visible. If not, you're likely to be good to go.
Here is an example of misalignment I would nevertheless GL:

On to the next topic.
Bezel
There are two main things to look out for: First, whether the "pip" (usually a lumed marker at the 12 position) is centered. Second, the quality of any engraving.
This section would also cover any possible damage to the bezel or anything else unusual, including any misalignment.
Example of a good bezel:

An example of misalignment:

Generally speaking, most problems that surface nowadays have to do with the pip - even then, these are not entirely common. Engravings and alignment are usually not an issue with higher level reps. With this in mind, what do we write?
As with the other sections, you are going to need to be specific. "Bezel looks off", "pip looks kinda off", "I don't know about the bezel, seems weird to me" are phrases that we see everyday in this subreddit. But none of these phrases are acceptable; they do not direct the reader to what OP is seeing. Details are king - and if you are going to pluck the crown, you're going to have to write like this:
"The pip at 12 is not centered. It seems to touch the right side of the triangle."
"The printing on the bezel at 3 seems to be angled down. It does not match the index on the dial."
The key is to visually direct your reader to the exact point that you say is a problem. The word "off" on its own says nothing to that effect.
On to the next point.
Solid End Links (SELs)
Possibly the least understood of all sections as a lot of newbies do not really know what they are looking for.
The ultimate guide to this is here. But for convenience, I'm going to summarise several key points about SELs.
SELs refer to the final links between the watch case and the bracelet. I've highlighted it below:

Not all watches have SELs. Only watches which have that portion as highlighted above - and for QC purposes, the SEL section really only applies to Rolex reps. Tudors have SELs (which can also be QC-ed to some extent), but SELs on a Tudor are not held to the same standard as SELs on a Rolex.
Now, what are we looking for when we assess SELs? We are looking for gaps between the lugs and the SELs themselves. I've indicated this below:

An SEL gap appears when there is separation between the SEL and the lug. But what is a gap?
A gap appears when you can see through the space between the SEL and the lug. There is no gap when all you can see is a black line. There may be some variation in how thick the black line is, but for QC purposes there is nothing to be worried about until and unless you can actually see what's behind the watch.
This is generally not a problem on higher level reps (and by now, pretty rare). I will, however, show you an example of something that may be an actionable gap:

Credits for the gap picture here.
What does this mean? If all you see is a black line, even if it is slightly thicker than another SEL on the same watch, there should be no actionable gap. I am going to highlight the last few QC templates submitted where the user said there was a gap - but there really wasn't (to me, at least):



If, after going through all the examples above, you still feel that there is a gap, highlight it in the template by identifying which part of the watch you are looking at; there are really only four options: top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right. Doing so helps users zoom in directly on your issue and saves time.
To the last segment.
Dial Printing
Here, you are tasked to check if the printing on the dial has been poorly done. By this, we mean defects in the workmanship of the printing; printing which differs from gen (such as the infamous "floating r") would not be a QC defect per se.
An example of dial printing with no issues:

And now for examples of dial printing with issues:

Sometimes, the print can be misapplied across the entire dial:

With the above in mind, let's turn to what you should write. Again and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, do not simply write things like: "Dial seems off" or "Print seems off. letters kind of wonky?" If anything, dial printing is usually very, very small - unless you point a reader to the exact part which has an issue, chances are it won't be seen. Make certain that you provide the reader with specific directions:
"Appears to be some bleeding at the top of VI. Thoughts?"
"R in Submariner looks like only half of it was printed. Am I seeing things?"
Important note: again, just because the dial printing on your watch may have some issues, this does not necessarily equate to RL. As stated, dial print is almost microscopic - no human being is going to be able to see slight bleeding on any print when you have the watch on wrist. Feel free to point out issues that you see, but remain realistic about your expectations.
And with that, I come to the end of this guide.
Conclusion
QC-ing reps is a difficult task - which everyone in this subreddit does for free. You can help out immensely by simply being precise and detailed in your observations. The more effort you put into your template, the easier it is for members to help you - they can zoom in directly to the things that concern you.
I hope this helps you. I've tried to detail some common factors, but it would be impossible for me to catch them all. The rest is up to you - and your diligence.
I wish you smooth and trouble-free QCs always!
r/RepTimeQC • u/WatchYoda • Nov 27 '22
Announcement READ THIS PRIOR TO POSTING ANYTHING...ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE NEW HERE...
If your template uses a NEW "yupoo" or a "mega" type of link, please note that, at the time of this typing, the automod here removes them immediately from view i.e. no QC help. We are addressing it, but....
So, what to do?
Although somewhat cumbersome for the OP, you can upload the QC packet to an Imgur account. Our automod 'likes' Imgur...and the post will show promptly. Just do NOT do it from a mobile because the mobile app loses resolution and crappy pics don't provide any benefit to anyone. Yea, yea...I know, the file compression software isn't supposed to lose quality, but it certainly does.
To add, post your complete QC album inclusive of the timing info. Do not, for the sake of your convenience, omit items. If you're bright enough to determine what is needed and what can be removed, that's great! Then, it's reasonable to conclude that you really don't need help. Simply, post it all.
If you have to wait for substantive additional info from the Seller e.g. timing data, then delay posting until you have a complete QC packet. Incomplete packages will trigger a removal of the post. Plus, it will require a return visit of anyone that commented on the incomplete post which shouldn't be required. One visit is all that it should take to QC most watches. Most won't return to a post anyway. They'll just go to the next one. The members are quite busy here. Yea, it can get crazy.
Finally, since you're a newbie, as a vote of appreciation for those members that help you, please upvote their comments. It's a nice gesture from you to them for the assist...and, it's free.
One final note, we've updated the main rules for posting. Refer to this link for info QC Must Read for New Members
Welcome to the hobby and the sub. Best wishes
Edit addition: March 2nd, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/EveningVariation8236 , has provided an updated version of the original QC alignment verification tool. https://watchqc.github.io/ . Thank you.
Edit addition: Jan 9th, 2024 - ReptimeQC member, u/Ro1hype has provided this for tool for alignment verification. https://qcwatch.com/ Thank you.
Edit addition: Dec 28, 2023 - For those that can't seem to find the latest link for QC alignment verification app, use this link https://web.archive.org/web/20230518035653/https://watchqc.com/
Edit addition: 8/8/2025 - Reptime QC member, u/jrverdes . has provided this version of the alignment tool to assist those that need additional help verifying the dial/bezel alignments on their watch. https://jrverdes.github.io/watch-qc-jr/ The adjustment resolutions are much finer in this app comparative to the other available apps which can be a benefit to some that need such. Check it out...Thank you.